Vías en Northern Tablelands para grado seleccionado

Start: 11m. right of Z. Two starting cracks, the right-hand one being easiest, then left along the traverse.

20m. Tricky protection and moves at the starting crack, then swing left along the traverse till you come to a diagonal crack. Up this.

Starts at either JB or LC depending on your fancy. Unlike the first ascensionists it's best to break this route into two pitches to avoid rope drag and snagging ropes under sharp flakes.

1. (crux) (30m). Up to obvious overlap and traverse L through top/bottom cracks to beginning of vertical crack. build semi-hanging belay.

2. (15m) Up vertical crack and through off-width chimney to finish. Tree belay.

Start: As for ‘Plastic Passion.

A bit silly.

Up as for ‘Plastic Passion’ and then up thin crack on right and straight up wall to top.

Start: At the bottom of the descent gully at the left end of the cliff. Scramble up to ledge left of big chimney with tree.

1. 20m Up crack corner to, traverse right to chimney, up this to ledge and tree belay.

2. 20m From tree scramble right up cracked wall to obvious crack. Up crack to top.

Start: 4m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’.

Up finger crack with block at half height. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if a top rope anchor is needed (take bolt plates) but quite adequate anchors can be had where the crack splits the top of the pinnacle.

Start: Horizontal recess some meters right of 'Intersection'.

1. 30m Traverse rightwards out of recess to below corner. Awkwardly up into comer and up to roof, exit left up crack to slab. Traverse left around arete to good ledge.

2. 10m Traverse left to off-width. Up this to scrubby ledge.

3. 30m Climb up through tree, step left then up to ledge on arete. Up trending left to jams below bulging wall. Traverse left until it is possible to climb a corner which leads to a large flake. Up this to top.

Start: The obvious hand/fist crack with a small roof just to the left of ‘Aisle of Deceit’

1. 10m Up crack through small roof to belay on left.

2. 20m As for final pitch of Bunker Hill’.

This line has long since fallen away, exposing a completely different route up the twin cracks on bright orange rock.

Original grade 13 line no longer exists.

You'll even meet spike on the second pitch, but don't expect to laugh!

Start: At the left-hand end of the main cliff, scramble up to large ledge at base of two fine corner crack systems. The Goon Show' takes the right line.

1. 30m Avoid orange rock by traversing right to base of offwidth, chimney cracks. Up twin cracks on right to ledge with large tree.

2. 15m Follow fine layback flake into comer: follow crack on right through bulge (crux) to base of fine corner. Spike is perched rather humorously on the right! Up corner, with care, onto ledge underneath huge roof.

3. 20m Easily up huge ramp to top (as for 'Menagerie').

A classic case of fine crack climbing.

Start: At the bottom of the slabs quite a way right of ‘Uncertain Future’ .You can either walk across from the previous routes or walk down from the top via the upstream descent gully.

1. 15m Up chimneys and wide cracks

2. 15m More of the same

3. 10m Up rightward trending diagonal behind bush.

4. 20m From open slabs, up right hand flake then up left to small ledge.

5. 20m Across wall on right to tree, then right under roof; off-width and fig tree on right.

6. 20m (crux) Out under roof to lip and up to one inch cracked roof, then up to scooped ledge.

7. 10m Steep crack to slab and -jut to left.

Unknown details, mentioned in 'Screamer' mag issue 9, 1981

Start: The line between ‘Brown Dirt Cowboy’ and ‘Failsafe’.

Up crack to ledge then up off width to top.

Start: The chimney approx. 10m. left of 'We Wont Get Fooled Again'.

1. 30m. Chimney then jam to the top.

A variant to ‘Face Value’.

1. 15m As for ‘Face Value’

2. 15m As for ‘Face Value’. belay under overlap.

3. 10m (crux) Move left, under-cling then jam to large ledge.

4. 25m Up easy looking chimney and exit onto the Flight Deck.

Details unknown, mentioned in 'Screamer' issue 9, 1981

Start: 2m left of ‘Twist’.

Tricky start.

Finger crack to ledge. Up hand jam crack to slightly overhanging blocks to tree, as for Twist.

Start: Start in a gully at the right-hand end of the main cliff, just left of 'Cheap Regrets' 5m right of 'Day Dream'.

1. 22m. 4m. Up the gully, then step left around the tree, then up the diagonal crack, with a short delicate slab finish.

Pertaining to champagne of high quality, not the nasty animal.

Start: The fine layaway crack left of ‘Bleat’ and 'Ambrosia'. (not the horrible offwidth).

Fine jamming and layaways to top.

This route was first climbed by Jill Kelman and Richard Curtis in 1976 but was not recorded because the prevailing ethic locally at the time was that a climb had to ascend the cliff from bottom to top to be a legitimate ascent. As Jill subsequently died in a European mountaineering accident I suggest that the climb be called Jill's Climb as it was a fine lead for the time. I mentioned this to Brian while he was still with us and the idea was received favourably.

A nice corner crack, the crux is pulling on. Great for top roping.

Abseil to sloping ledge right of the line under roof to belay from micro cams, small wires. Step left into V groove and up

Start: 2m left of ‘Fox Trot’.

Bridge up crack and detached block, up finger crack and slightly overhanging off width to top.

Start: About 12m to the left of ‘Brut’, the obvious flake crack.

Up flake crack, swing right when crack runs out; slab climbing to terrace.

Start: 10m left of ‘Sly’, a good looking fist jam crack.

Up crack to top.

Start: This route is on the slabs between The Flight Deck and The King Pin.

1. 12m Wander up to roof.

2. 18m Through roof, up leftwards and over to the Kurrajong tree, then up offwidth to top.

Start: The only worthwhile crack between ‘Knuckleduster’ and ‘Backdoor Man’.

Follow the crack.

Stonking good hand jams up to the top of the pillar, then an easy slab to tree belay

Start: At the bottom of the descent gully, as for FTF, An interesting adventure climb into the unknown. Excellent pro.

1. 45m Follow the diagonal crack corner left over bulges to a ledge, continue up the line to a large ledge with several trees.

2. 15m (Crux) Climb the flared corner crack to gain access to the next major ledge.

3. 40m Move left into major corner, up corner trending right to a small ledge at the base of two final short cracks. The left crack is the easiest (only just).

Start: Left of ‘Part of the Scenery’.

Bridge and jam to top.

A prominent line overlooking the camp site. Through the offwidth roof crack and out the face.

Some unique and committing moves into the unknown. Good fun.

Start: A few meters left of Spectre. A thin crack in a wall leads to an obvious Kangaroo tail flake.

20m Up thin crack and onto flake, then move left, following the crack around the corner to a small ledge. Up crack onto another ledge. Climb wall to the right of the groove and continue up to belay.

Start: Clean crack some metres to the left of ‘Solid Gold’.

Up crack with awkward exit.

Start from a cave up on the ledge, belay off fig roots. (Nice one Simon)

1. 16m. From the cave, swing right into the base of the crack. Then straight up - varied climbing.

A dirty crack start, that wanders all over the place. Start: 4m right of P.R.

30m Up crack to spacious ledge, traverse left across Pop Realism, and a face to large flake, trending left to bushy ledge, then up, right, around flake to top.

Start: 1m right of ‘Toedance’.

Up the thin finger crack.

Start: The second crack at the right end of the lower tier.

Up crack to top.

Start: The obvious off-width crack 2m right of ‘Long Haired Lout’.

Up crack.

Start: As for 'Agent Orange Sunset'

1. 25m Up crack for a couple of meters then move left into obvious traverse line. Continue traverse until large ledge at base of rightwards trending ramp.

2. 25m Follow ramp to roof. Move left onto huge ledge with solitary gum-tree.

3. 25m Up wall to horizontal crack, have a breather, then continue up rightwards trending line to top.

Start: 2m right of ‘Delusions for a Dragon Slayer’.

Up crack.

Start: A leaning corner crack.

1. 30m (crux) Up the shallow crack, over block, then up the off width to a ledge.

2. 26m Straight up the crack to a small roof. Out and around this to belay ledge.

A chance find.

Start: As for A.O.S.

1. 25m Up crack and wall of A.O.S. (5m), then traverse left to the diagonal crack. Continue up crack and flake to a tree on a large ledge.

2. 25m As for pitch 3 of S.F & F.I.

Start: On a little buttress further right from the other climbs, beneath an obvious roof near a large dead tree.

Up da wall and around da roof.

Up the fierce looking crack on the main face with a ledge at half height.

The crack on the main face. Up the fierce looking crack with a ledge at half height.

Start: The crack about 8m right of 'Magnifascent'.

Up the crack to overhanging section, then detour left up slab and crack to bush belay.

Start: 1m right of ‘Inspiration Point’.

Up hand jam crack with fingery diagonal, move right onto small stance. Then a series of committing moves over bulge to top.

“I’m a country member.” - “Yeah I remember”.

The direct line to the layback of ‘Country Bumpkin’.

Start: A few metres right of ‘Skid Row’.

1. 30m Straight up to layback flake via 3 bolt runners. Up layback to tree belay on ledge (take care the tree is dead!).

2. 10m (crux) Straight up slab past two bolt runners, and wall to top.

Start: From the descent track, traverse along the ledge, through some fig tree branches, on the left side of the main bluff.

Up hand-crack to top.

Start: The big ugly off width.

Up filthy off width to top.

Start: Right of Hang Ten and left of the fig tree, a slabby wall leading to low angled cracks. Shares the upper section with Deviant Death. (Take a #4 Friend).

Straight up wall, then to the top of the flake crack. Move right approx. 2m. then straight up to thin, steepening crack corner. Step left into wide crack/cave, jam up to bush/vine, then pull over the bulge/roof and straight to top. Tree belay,

Start: On the scrubby ramp 50m. right of Timeless Realm, either at the base of a vertical off-width or 5m. right at a corner. 5 B.R/s. plus other gear.

1. 10m Either up offwidth to large tree, or small corner 5m right, trending left to large tree.

2. 30m (crux) Up right-trending ramp to black wall (BR). Move left and up past bolt to grassy ledge. Up shallow corner, past 2 BRs to a series of left trending ledges, past last bolt, stepping right to base of corner.

3. 30m Up corner over small slab trending right to tree and ledge.

4. 10m Rightward diagonal corner crack to top.

Start: Twin cracks left of Dynamicus.

Up the twin cracks.

Start: In a slight alcove right of Deviant Death, 1m left of Silence Is Golden. The description is a bit vague but it shares the same start and part of the first pitch of Unholy Trinity.

1. 47m Crux. Up in slight left-hand corner to fine cracks, up these and left to the vegetated corner. Across(?) left on wall to hand crack in left-hand corner. Up this onto an arête, joining a crack from left under a wall (?).

2. 6m Up off to right.

Start: Left of ‘Stubby’.

Up the curving crack with slight bulge.

Start: Just around the corner from Bananas. A curving, hanging crack. Great atmosphere and friction experience. When you're firing caming devices into this exciting little route, spare a thought for poor Joe who did it with Hexes. Highly recommended.

1. 15m Up into scrub and over it lo belay above a tree to the left of where the obvious underhung crack starts.

2. 20m Crux. Hang on tight and follow the underhung crack.

3. 10m Over blocks and scramble through to tree belay.

Start: 1m left of Reunion. A series of boulder problems and ledges.

Up little wall, step left, up left diagonal then clip BR right past BR to ledge, clip another BR then up (crux) to top.

An exposed climb (and enjoyable if you like sparse protection), which ranks with 'Action' ( Dangars Falls).

Start: Roughly in the middle of the wall, there is a leaning pillar with a left hand crack.Further to the right of the pillar is a ramp leading to a tree. Start here.

1. 25m From tree, easily at first, then more difficult, to a good belay in obvious crack on left hand side of a small flake.

2. 30m Move left and up, past thin crack (which affords some protection ) to belay.

3. 30m Left again and up thin, slightly vegetated crack to belay on grassy ledge under small roof.

4. 30m Move left from ledge (placing protection high to protect traverse) to crack. Carefully up crack to belay below crack lines above.

5. 35m Up initial crack and right to thin crack splitting small roof. Step out left under roof and up to small trees. Continue up to uncomfortable belay under tiny cracked corner.

6. 30m Diagonally left under roof (heading towards huge roof at extreme left), around smaller roof and up to top.

The crack 1m left of Illusion/Going Steady. Up blocks to thin crack, up this to wide crack and top.

Start: At the the base of the crack line that leads to to the obvious chimney up higher on the main face.

Up right-hand flake, then left to bulging crack. Over crack to ledge then chimney to top.

Start: The best line on the boulder just down (approximately 40 m) from the car park.

Up crack, through overlap to ledge, then up offwidth crack to top.

Start: Under sickle-shaped under cling in the middle of the wall.

Up under cling, then directly up to hollow flake. Finish straight up.

Start: The very obvious horizontal line that traverses the length of the buttress.

Quite a classic, that is undeservedly rarely climbed due to it’s obscurity. Traverse left along obvious horizontal roof crack until a few powerful moves put you on a good ledge. Continue left and down a few moves to belay at water level.

Start: At right-hand end of breakaway below short V-chimney.

Through V-chimney and overhang, then jams to top.

Start: At river level, at a cascade at the end of a small pool. The line wanders, hence the short pitches.

1. 23m. Up steps, a ramp and a corner to a large ledge.
2. 17m. Left, up flake and into strenuous bottleneck chimney.
3. 13m. Up body crack. Move right below long curving crack.
4. 20m. Start up crack then move inside, chimney up and out to ledge.
5. 10m. Up steep wide crack and wall to top.

Start: 2m left of ‘Milkshake’.

Up short chimney and then the corner crack. (The corner has been extensively cleaned in recent years making it substantially easier - perhaps 16?)

Start: The arête right of S.B.

Up arête/wall past two bolts and some natural protection to the top. Belay off tree further back.

Has a perfect starting hand crack the eases into the top. Probably should have a star if it was cleaned fully.

Start: 25m left of “The Chop”.

1. 28m Up over flakes then into the back of a chimney (strenuous). Then up to a large cutaway ledge.

2. 12m Traverse right and up to crack. Up crack to top.

Start: A couple of metres left of ‘Brijit’.

Up fingery crack start to hand crack and over some sword grass to top.

Start: Mossy corner 20m down right from “The Chop”.

1. 25m diagonally right up series of corners and small rooves to belay at good stance in corner capped by a big roof.

2. 10m Exit right through the off-width onto the ledge to belay at the start of the beautiful flake.

3. 15m Up splendid crack then slab to belay at tree.

Line following the system of layback cracks and under-clings on the downstream end of the slabs. Originally done with one or two points of aid in the top corner hut was freed by A. Legler and Ed Sharp in October 1980.

Start: At the far left of the slabs.

1. Up wall, traversing left at about 10m to gain a large ledge? at the base of the first layback crack.

2. Up flakes to small ledge.

3. (crux) Up cracks to fingery corner then exit to tree.

Start: l0m left of ‘Hot Seat’.

Hand jams to offwidth to top.

A little contrived - try to ignore the temptation to step on the ledges.

Start: The incipient seam that goes up just right of the Kitchen ledges. 2m left of “Lean Cuisine”.

Up the seam with some tricky gear to the final moves. Reach left onto the ledge for a siderunner before committing to the final belly-flop.

Start: The rather unprotected groove 4m right of ‘Path of Destruction’.

Up wall and into groove to top.

Start: About 5m left of ‘Hobson’s Choice’.

Onto ledge from left then fist jam crack to top.

Up the slab to the right of crack, many variations. Exit up right corner to top. Trad anchor required.

Start: The obvious corner on the buttress (and visible from the left-hand end of ‘The Pagoda’).

Jam and bridge up to top.

Start: 2m left of ‘Supermouse’.

Hand jam crack with tricky finish.

The hand/fist crack on the south face of boulder. Steep and leans to the right. Gear to 4". Gear anchor required.

The wall on the boulder. Up the wall and hand crack to top.

Clip first bolt then head slightly right and up over the flakes, a good #1 placement (avoid gear on the detached arch). Onto the slab (crux) past 2 bolts, then a short unfortunate dirty wade through some lomandra then onto a short crack up to the anchor.

Start: Left of ‘The Plaquet’.

Reasonable hand jams to dubious hand jams. Out onto sloping ledge.

Up the slab to the right of crack, many variations. Exit up right corner to top. Trad anchor required.

3m right of Good Morning Little School Girl. Supposedly better than it looks. Up staircase to ledge, hand-traverse left to hand-crack to top.

Start: The next main line right of Total Control.

1. 22m. Slightly leftward up slabs to wall, traverse right around nose and up ramp to small ledge at base of large corner (protection poor).
2. 16m. Up corner and through short off-width to small ledge (crux).
3. 25m. Up corner 8m. then traverse right into smaller corner and delicately up over bulges (loose rock) to base of wall.
4. 40m. Up onto ledge, then up corner and onto wall on right,diagonally leftwards and up more easily to belay tree.
5. 37m Scramble up slabs to trees.

Start: 3m left of ‘Wake In Fright’.

Climb the right-hand of the twin cracks.

The first route in the descent gully. Mike's brothers York and Eric were there too! Start: The wall 3m left of 'Humble Pie'.

Up the wall, past 3 BR's. Third bolt is a difficult clip - makes it that little more exciting. Belay on ledge (medium friends and wires) and walk off right, or... continue up hand-crack to top (grd. 18)

Start: A great route in spite of the name. An incipient groove, slightly diagonal from left to right, several metres right of A.W. Often tried in the seventies but Austin won the prize. I love it. The start is difficult to protect. Take lots of wires.

1. 30m. A tricky start, delicate pro, then nice moves up the groove till it ends on a small ledge.

2. 15m. Easy climbing to top.

Start: The arete between ‘Snakes and Ladders’ and ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’.

Straight up the arete, avoiding the climbs on either side. 4 bolts and a selection of Friends provide the protection. #4 Friend needed near top.

Start: The crack below the small roof.

Up off-width and around roof to top.

Start:Around right of R.J. A thin crack below a small fig tree just left of a clean, slightly diagonal crack. Fantastic !

34m. Up to fig tree and crack above to below a steep wall with a huge jug. Swing out left on jug, then up onto easy slab and on up to tree, belay. Rap off.

Start: 1m right of ‘Ilean’.

Up crack to top.

Start: About 30m left of 'Inception'.

1. 20m Up corner then left to small chimney and up onto ledge.

2. 35m Bridge and jam up crack to top.

further down the falls, is this short slabby route, small hands and feet, on a nice angle creates some nice movement and a fun route

Up the steep concave scoop then slab above. A medium sized cam is required for horizontal break at the top. Two bolt lower off.

Starts at short corner and exits left of boulder on ledge to belay.

Start up Whale ale then traverse right after 2 bolts and finish up Invalid. Single bolt lower off.

Start as for WWOS then diagonally right up the slab

Starting 2m left of the scoop of Whale Ale, up difficult start to nice finish. Don't forget some cams for the final break before the top out

Start around the right corner. Boulder problem mantle onto the ledge then easier to top.

Traverse in from either side, then up to the pinnacle for a dry top out.