Vías en Sydney Metropolitan para grado seleccionado

Climb The Bulge from ledge above Crime is Bolting then walk right along ledge and up to double bolt belay on right side of cave. Climb the very exposed right side of top cave on mega jugs. Airy and Rad!

16 if you climb the corner, 19 if you climb the face

Traverse from right to left without using the top edge. start 6m left of the crab puddle

2m right of R.

Up the flaring finger crack.

Quite a bit easier if you use the back wall for a chimney. (Maybe a 14?)

You can set up a top rope using a 3m and a 6m sling around two different bolders above (+ ~ 6m of connector tape). There is a very rusty bolt that I wouldn't trust.

Start: 2m right of B. Up crack with a steepish start.

Up slab right of SS. Another of those thin slab lines that are the style of this area. now a mixed route. Small cam in pocket low down.

Start: left of I.E.

As for Enterprise

Follow flake on right at top.

Start: as for F.P.

Traverse. up crack then right to M.D and up.

Start below wall, 2m left of T.

Undercut, crimpy and slightly sandy start (will clean up with more ascents). The first placement is a little high - get a spot from your belayer. Cams in breaks, BR on top section. Either trad belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station.

Overhang start just right of "From Another Galaxy"

FA; solo + others

1m left of HO below bulge.

Hard move off ground (more like 22!), then up over roof on jugs and up slab. Triple BB belay (shared with HO).

The pockets could protect this good line; + others solo

Please do not climb this route as it is above a sensitive aboriginal midden.

A contrived sit-start. A bit loose (eeeeyakabo!). Start as for 'Cosmic Ecology Variant. Traverse left then strenuously up to ledge. Continue up slab to double BB

Up corner of block to ledge, then up big pockets/edges to top out. Poor/no pro past block.

Dirty corner about 20m Left of the descent, to the right of Tangerine Canard

Friends and one bolt - up grovelly corner

One move boulder problem with no pro. - Solo

0.5m Left of better than Hailstones

#Dangerous. This climb has a giant loose block above the bolts that appears to be balanced on a small chockstone. If you pull on it or snag the corner with a rope it may rip out. You have been warned.

Right end off wall. Up crack to slab passing 2 BRs, horizontal break and up to top. DBB on top.

Softer start to "Vege Tale"

5m left of Bikkies.

Strenuous. Cam anchors.

Start: Overhung corner left of 'Warp Factor Two'.

Hand crack to start up, on to block step right then finish up offwidth.

"Quite steep". Pass two breaks and walk 5m left to bollard.

Start: Orange wall below large overhanging off-width left of 'Oggindeli'.

Thin finger crack to start leading to offwidth. Only requires 2 offwidth moves to top out. Take your big cam on this one.

Starts 6 m L of Wimples. Mantle to ledge with gnarly gum, past vegetation to short hand crack. Careful to protect the mantle.

Start below right tending ramp, just past the arete approximately 60m right of aCF (approx. 100m from the ladder). Scary. The first pitch has been retrobolted as Part of the Last wave

1. 15m (18) Up ramp , step right around the arete, then follow the thin crack up to a belay ledge all Ubolts now.

2. 30m Follow corner for approximately 5m, then easily left to belay on slab below roof (manky BB).

3. 30m Climb up slab and V crack then left to ledge. Head straight up from here, then step right to another crack. Follow this to the top.

Mikl Law 1970's

The crack on the right of the big nose. Straight up the orange corner and crack above, then right out the keyhole between the two giant stones. Protect exit through chockstones with 50-70mm cam and extend runners below to reduce otherwise excessive rope drag.

Start 5m left of QB flake. Up past big pocket and black wall to ledge, then short easy wide crack through roof. Good trad gear in horizontals. take a lot of thin hand to fist sized cams.

Up steep hand crack right of UtD to finish on those anchors.

Sydney classic at the grade! A great example of a mixed route, requiring quite a bit of trad. Start on right side of main wall at the right leading groove/flake feature with very high first bolt (stick-clip it). Up the groove (2 RBs), sling the top of the feature and take a well earned rest. Finish up a exposed flake crack on left side of arete (cams and wires) then one final RB to lower-offs.

Climb up into pod shaped chimney, then struggle out to continue up crack. Not well travelled, fiddly gear placments.

Start: 3m right of 'Alison'

Up the right corner above the seepage. Sandy natural anchors. Toprope by slinging off rock features on top.

Fun steep climbing. 0.5 cam to protect the start and a no.2 before the carrot bolts. There is an old bent gal carrot and a horribly rusty one a bit further up.

Up crack 1.5m left of ST, then up of blunt arete.

Start at small square 4m L of Lean to. Straight up past good cam break

Arete right of SSCC11. An old Scout's top rope route. A bit runout at top to small spike runner. First recorded lead.

FA: Surely some ballsy 15 yr/old in the 50’s soloed this Linking up the best bits of cornered and reason, Quite a quality line, a great top rope number. Please avoid retro bolting the last few meters as the gear is bomber and it would be a shame to turn this historic area into a grid bolted gym.

Hand crack int he corner right of the tree. Top out right or far left.

Overall actually a really decent climb… if it were on bolts, theres about 2-3 good pieces on the whole route, all of them in the first few meters, this wasn’t discovered by the first ascensionist until he was meters from the top on some pretty average rock.

Start as for DWTS and veer right at head wall for a direct finish.

Sea Level Traverse - Rosa To Ron’s (2km, Grade 17?) This section is arguably the most classic moderate adventure route in NSW. A great day out requiring great, but not perfect swell conditions.

From the North: - Cross the gap between Rosa Gully and Diamond Bay, one slippery section, nothing too tricky if the swell is low. - Traverse the slippery slot under the log of death (a couple of carrots), after walking through the cave on the other side, a small 6m rap is required to gain the lower ledge. - This lower ledge system will take you on a tour through time under bow wall crag. Mike laws artwork can be seen winding its way up the blankest, chosseist sections of rock. Crux 5 - This ledge system finishes under prowess. Either use the bolts here to gain the ledge then rap back down off one to the other side. Alternatively, whip out the trad gear and easily traverse this bit (provided its not soaked by the waves). - The simple walking tour continues from here past three cathedral like cave systems, some slippery traversing required but nothing too hard. - After about 300m, you’ll arrive under sanctum main buttress, and the bulk of the climbing in front of you Crux 4 - Scramble around the back of the sea cave and climb the little head wall on the far side. Traversing the ledge 5m up is much easier than saying low. - from here you have a couple options, either blast up the easy looking corner crack (grade 16 with a very hard grassy topout) or go south a couple more meters and rap down (needs bolts) to sea level again to wrap around to the south end of the big buttress you’re on. The crack on this far side looks much nicer to climb. A third option is to sidle around to the front of this buttress via a sandy ledge about 4-5m above the ledge you're on. its a bit heady on shit gear but the fastest way past this buttress. - Both options land you on a big ledge system. Traverse south about 15m and either rap 6m down to the lower ledge or climb 2m up to the higher option. This higher option needs bolts for a big 30m rap about 100m south, wereas the lower option can be abseiled with a 25m rope off an old fishermans spike. - Now that these paths have reconvened, scramble south for another 80m along a skinny ledge, building a belay off the old fisherman spike. It’s probably worth doing a micro 5m long pitch here and building a much better belay off the stainless spikes at the better ledge. - This next pitch goes at around grade 14 with bomber gear and great, balancy moves. Crux 3 - Another 100m of easy walking gets you to the last crux of this section of the traverse, buruwang main wall. - Theres a couple options here, either climb any of the routes that will get you up to the higher ledge (easiest is probably: Just one more bump, 12m, a pretty committing grade 22 mixed route), or… in the spirit of seacliff traversing, don’t go up, go sideways. This traversing pitch isn’t too hard, but is very pumpy, probably around grade 19, resting on gear makes it a lot easier, but it will give you a cardio workout nonetheless. - once you’re past buruwang main wall, its all easy walking and scrambling all the way to the mattings descent (huge fixed ropes). Exiting here makes for a great day out and a fairly easy 25min walk back to the diamond bay.

From the South: Reverse the above beta

A dirty and vegetated seam crack 5m left of Centopah. Yum.

Best to climb right side of the arete past good cam breaks. . Good gear.

The right arete. Mixed line to chain belay

Crawl up through hole then up good hand crack to ledge.

Start: At far left end of Furnace Environs in little cave under block.

Traverse 5m as for DoD then up groove. Seems to still be there.

Just like yuzu, this isn't for everyone. Committing, but there's enough holds and okay (if well spaced) gear. Straight up the middle, using the Mandarin crack for gear until it'd feel like cheating. Romp up on 3D holds staying right of ferny break, and either straight up above scoop, or thinly over the greenery. Bring slings for the horns and small to medium cams for the pockets. If it looks friable, it definitely is.

Start as for GOG. Up to roof then left out and up the slab. Lots of good cam placements, and 2 small nuts needed

Left arete starting above the rusty metal. Up the arete, trying to stay away from OOW. New stainless u bolt lower offs 2021.

Starts from narrowest point of DAA ledge. To base of yellow and brown corner (suitably metaphorical colours? - Ed). Up corner to then around roof.

Just like goodbyes, not all that pleasant. Shallow flaring double crack system into a chimney top. FA used a #7 as first piece, a #6 would go one move higher. Tree anchor.

two meters left of DTE below the corner. Up the vegetated corner, then up the much better headwall

As for DD then round arete to steep hand crack.

Just left of the steep gully

The obvious corner system, with bomber gear - was originally marked DT. The first completed climb at Rainbow.

Direct start to MR, straight up crack, lower offs at the top.

Slabby corner crack leads to rooflet. Swing out right and up jugs to spectacular finish up dead leaves and tree branches. Belay off tree 10m further up the rocky hillside. All trad. Not all rad.

Start three meters right of FOTF. Up to break, then traverse left under overhangs to finish up Flight

The obvious crack. Traverse in from the left to get to the start.

The slab to the small bulging crack line.

Start: 5m past cave

Notice from route setters

Please do not climb this route until further notice. The starting holds are on a large flake; if this route sees a lot of traffic, the flake might break, making this climb several grades harder. Also, temporary bolts were used to set the route, which need to be replaced with glue-ins. Please be patient and help us conserve the crag so it can be enjoyed by people in the future.

Description Up the slab to the right of Trolls Arete. Thin balance moves past bolt to a sloper layback top out. Left arête is off.

Start: 3m right of Osso Buffo.

Pockets to small cam break, slab to medium break, then the fabled W'oonga topout - slopes and grit!

The real white wabbit lives on the cliff top further to the right, but you may need to pull one out of the hat to trad this lead out!

The wide offwidth leading to a face with a bolt or two

1m right of K9.

Up to traverse line then head right to arete (thread runner on tree?). Up hanging slab. Looks unprotected and probably harder than 17

Starting off either side of the arete, follow the corner to the top. A little sandy due to the lack of traffic but for what it's worth it's quite a good climb.

Wide breaks then seam and pockets below twin SS glue-in carrots.

Start in the hole and continue up the right side of the streak.

Start in the hole and continue up the left side of the streak.

Right of walk through chimney, Left side of slab on north end of block. Thin sharp but positive holds. Could do with 2 rings in it.

First line after the arete on the left. Blast up to the break if you're tall or move delicately up the slab.

Up edge of orange cave on very thin things.

Start 5m right of Ept, just R of tree. Tricky start, staying away from flake till its top. Easily up slab.

No chalk. No bolts. No pro. Or a few bad cams and one micro-nubbin if you're bold. Some hard and interesting moves at the bottom and above. Top rope anchor from tree 5m back.

Start: The arete 1m right of Healthy Habits.

Up the next bit of solid rock right of A (facing cliff) Top out is crux

Up the face beside a right facing flared corner crack. Move left around the arete and up face passing one questionable ring bolt in the process.Top rope off a tree back from the edge, careful not to get your rope wedged in the crack as it widens near the top.

Burly move out right and gaining stance, then easy climbing to the top.

Start at initials. Up slight overhang to ledge, then trend left and exit up runnel past old chopped Terrier (threaded sleeve) and later expansion bolt at the top.

Start right of 'Stay Alive', but instead of following the flake, just head straight up on a blank wall of nothing. Only been top roped... for now.

Carrots now in place for top roping. Safety line required to set up anchor.

Perform a mantle between DDD and DS. Head left through the forest and hope that Ranger Dave is there to save the day if you can't commit to the crux.

Start 2m right of IADL, up past thin flake to arête.

Up rad orange wall traversing under roof to the mantle of death, then easily to anchors.

Up face past couple of big pockets to victory jug. Caution! Hollow rock between first and bolts.

Start: as for I.E.

Traverse. from 1st B.R head right to M.O.B then up

start 1m L of Dorothy May. Jump from boulder to jug just right of crack (Lean Too) and up. 3 rings and lower-off. Previoulsy bolted on coach screws, rebolted Nov 2016

Start at right end of cave, at right side of small trees sitting against the rock, 4m R of Sideline Jack. Up. Another nice warmup.

STart in small orange groove 6m L of Ready Set Go, 15m L of Flack, and 30m L of where the track hits the cliff. Hard move to start then up arete.

Start: 2m right of arête. Tending left to shared anchors. (staying off arête until 3rd bolt)

Climb as you like straight up or to the left or right of the climb

Start on left of crack and up to lower off.