★★★ No Time for Dreaming 20

A fantastic outing up some great quality granite with something for everyone. Increases in difficulty as you go higher, and its possible to enjoy an easier day by abseiling off when it gets too hard. All belay stations are DBB with rap rings. Pitch 4 has 11 bolts (the most), so you'll need at least that many draws. Take a few cams (small to medium) to supplement bolts on the 3rd and 4th pitches. Starts at a prominent black streak where the walking track hits the cliff, ~ 15 m left of the waterfall. After heavy rain, the first 3 pitches turn into a waterfall, leaving the rock beautifully polished as a result!

1. 25m (12). Cruise up the black streak to a comfy belay ledge.

2. 20m (15). Follow a series of flakes to the crux move to reach the next ledge. There is often a decent sized puddle underneath the DBB - this pitch can easily be linked into P3 to avoid hanging out in it if you use a few extenders.

3. 20m (16). Move up and right on the large flake, before technical and tricky moves back left to follow the main crack line to the ledge. A medium cam or two can be used in this crack to supplement the two bolts, but are not necessary for safety. There is a variation approximately 5 m left of the start (separate DBB and first bolt) that may not have been finished?

4. 40m (19). Climb the spine and corner off the left side of the belay ledge before stepping right up the flake and corner. The crux bulge here can be backed up with a cam/medium nut (advised). Continue up the ramp and follow the bolts up a seam and slab to a big ledge.

5. 20m (20). Step up and right around the base of the steep prow onto the slab. Traverse diagonally right and then follow the flakes and cracks up the wall to the top.

Trad and mixed climbing routes.