Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | ||
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Bowen Queens Bay Octopus Boulders | |||||
V1 | ★ Around Big Octopus
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V1 | ★★ Octopus Corridor Crack
Standing start on RHS of big octopus as looking at from within gap between boulders | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Octopus 4
| 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Octopus 5
| 4m | |||
Bowen Queens Bay The Overhangs | |||||
V1 | ★★ Jugs
Seated start, traversing up through jugs. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Time for a fish & chip lunch
Stand start. | 2m | |||
V1 | ★★ Good Kind of Crumble
Sit start in big pocket then head right and up on good holds. | 4m | |||
Bowen Coral Bay | |||||
V2 | ★★★ Steep Wall
Steep wall with cool feature. PA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V2 | ★ Mantle
Start low and up to tricky mantle. PA: Cuan | ||||
V2 | ★★ Classic Traverse
Start at the very back of the boulder and traverse R around the boulder, with a pumpy (and sometimes a little grainy) finish. PA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Beach Side | |||||
V2 | King of the North (stand start)
Stand start on big jug at lip of overhang then straight up. PA: Steve Baskerville | 3m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Warm-up Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★★ 1
A classic sit start. | 3m | |||
V2 | Lotion on it's skin
Start with a double undercling and smear feet. Go straight up. | 2m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Wall of Certain Death | |||||
V1 | ★★ Appointment With Death
Starting on the upper level pull out onto the steep wall and up big jugs. A dangerous problem. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★★ Wall of Certain Death
As classic as they come. Very high and scary. Up the arête to the steep wall and out the overhang on amazing jugs to a lip crux. Bring lots of pads and be aware that if you fall off this problem you could be seriously hurt. PA: Steve Baskerville | 6m | |||
V2 | ★ Horny Horns
Standing start using horn and up via next horn to crumbly sslopers. Bad landing. | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ Thug Life
Standing start | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ An Inconvenient Struth
Standing start. Undercling up to not so good rock. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ An Inconvenient Struth (sit start)
Sit start and up "An Inconvenient Struth" | 5m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Jump Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Classic Wall
Up the obvious cool features. A nice under cling mid way up. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Vague Seam
PAL: Christopher Glastonbury, 8 Jun 2018 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Come Out & Play
A classic arête. A high ball with bad landing. Start with fridge move, work way out right on corner and up slightly left. | 4m | |||
V1 | What can I say except you're welcome
Layback from the crack. | 3m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Voodoo Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Nurofen
| 4m | |||
V1 | ★★ Lime
Start in the crack in a layback, work your way up L following the crackline. The crux is in the middle. You can sit start this one. | 4m | |||
V1 | Fruit Picker
| ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay South Side Seaside Slopers | |||||
V2 | ★★★ Welcome to Barbados (stand start)
Stand start on good horn, straight up. A classic steep wall. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ On a Razors Edge
Stand start on good holds on right hand arete (facing out to sea), then up then traverse lip of boulder to end up mantling on other side of boulder. Slightly contrived but fun. | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Super Pumpy (variant start)
Started a little higher on "Super Pumpy" PA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V2 | ★★ Seaside slopers 1 (stand)
Classic, starting with low sidepull for RH and sloper for left. Up via slopers to big pocket and a thought provoking, but easy mantle. PA: Steve Baskerville | 4m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay South Side Lookout Rock | |||||
V1 | ★★ Tom's Been a Good Boy
Obvious hand-sized crack up into chockstone. Lots of options for hands and feet. Enjoy the view. PA: Jack Seawright, 24 Jun 2021 | 7m | |||
V2 | ★★ Santa's Escape
Obvious crack visible from horseshoe bay directly below lookout. Start up flake to ledge. Blast up offwidth and hope you're on the nice list. PA: Jack Seawright, 24 Jun 2021 | 7m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay South Side Pink Elephant | |||||
V1 | ★★ Live Another Day
Starting in obvious creek with not so good slopers and ok feet. | 3m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay South Side boulders | |||||
V1 | Route 3
Sit start on average holds with ledge flake for feet PA: unknown | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Route 4
Start under rock on bucket hold and go up through angled crack. Don't dab on the big left block PA: unknown | 3m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay | |||||
V2 | ★★ Mr Wall
| 5m | |||
V2 | 2nd Overhang
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V2 | ★ 3rd Overhang
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Bowen Murray Bay Barnablock | |||||
V2 | Hold an ann
PAL: Christopher Glastonbury, 8 Jun 2018 | 5m | |||
Bowen Murray Bay Vanuatu Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Vanuatu 1
| ||||
Bowen Murray Bay Honey Pot | |||||
V2 | Født feig
PAL: Christopher Glastonbury, 8 Jun 2018 | 7m | |||
Bowen Murray Bay Tidal Boulders | |||||
V2 | 1
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V2 | Bread Sloper
Sit start from the sloper. Up and left. Short problem. PA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V1 | ★★★ 8
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V1 | ★ 9
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V2 | ★ 11
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Bowen Murray Bay The point | |||||
V1 | ★ Whale Tail
Start with hands in the lowest part of the scoop. PA: Tim Nguyen, Suhas Sharma & Glen Hayford, 18 Dic 2020 | 1m | |||
V1 | ★★ Stretch
Start low and follow up features, careful on top flake PA: Glen Hayford, Tim Nguyen & Max Oconnor, 18 Dic 2020 | 4m | |||
V2 | Flex
Choss pile that looks amazing and obvious line. Sit Start. PA: Glen Hayford, 18 Dic 2020 | 4m | |||
Mackay Slade Point | |||||
V1 | Dingo’s Breakfast
Sit start. Climbs up and out to the right. Obvious natural line. Must be low tide. Equip: Adon, Oct 2023 | 4m | |||
Blackdown Tableland National Park Camphitheatre | |||||
V1 | Sun Rose
Jug run on the far left of the biggest block. PA: Tim Hall, 13 Jun 2022 | 3m | |||
V2 | Banana Juice
Sit start left of the detached smaller rock. Straight up. PA: Tim Hall, 13 Jun 2022 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Arabian Nights
Slab from left to right below the ridge. PA: Tim Hall, 13 Jun 2022 | 4m | |||
Yeppoon/ Capricorn Coast Rosslyn Bay Minor Deliquency Wall | |||||
V1 | ★ Belly of the Whale
PA: Aaron Wilhelmsen, 2009 | 3m | |||
Yeppoon/ Capricorn Coast Rosslyn Bay Drain | |||||
V1 | ★★ Splinter
A fun and easy traverse project. Sit-start on the right hand end of the west-facing drain wall. Use jugs, heel-hooks, tracking/bumping hands and feet to traverse left around 5m. Top out optional. PA: Skippy_Mc | ||||
V1 | ★★★ Half mile high club
Joel's fun variant of 'splinter'. Same Sit start at the far right corner, however, stick to the low rail where splinter goes high. Still has jugs akimbo, but footwork becomes interesting as you try not to dab. | ||||
V1 | ★★ Jugger-0
Sit start left of of the splinter start. An easy and enjoyable series of jugs with a mantle top out | ||||
V2 | Cathedral
Sit start right of the roof for 'chapel'. Trend left, Stay low, go under the roof, and follow the cheese grater jugs up to an obvious feature with a sketchy flake (x-d out). A fun combination of overhang climbing leading into some cool stemming moves. Pumpy with sharp holds, but not super technical. Potential to continue right, or link up with 'splinter' or 'half metre high club traverse routes. | ||||
V2/3 | ★★ The Bell Tower
Start as for Cathedral but stick to the roof and turn the lip to finish straight up without the break to the right. | 3m | |||
V2/3 | ★ The Pulpit
Starting above the rocks, follow the line trending up and left to finish on the spike at the high point of the weakness. PA: Nick Foulds, 26 Dic 2021 | 4m | |||
Yeppoon/ Capricorn Coast Mulambin Beach Pinnacle Point | |||||
V1 | ★ Headless chicken
Opposite rialto. Ss to a sloper rail on the right. Bump up the sloper rail (left) to match on an awkward sloper ledge. Difficult until it suddenly isn't at all. Used to finish with a match on a big chicken head, but it flaked off. Now it's a sloper ledge. | ||||
V1 | Gravity
Traverse left to right, around 3 or 4 metres. Sit-start on a downhill flake, left of unknown (beta, use the barn-door to get you off the ground and you'll understand the name). Traverse right on a series of pinches and smokers with balancey feet. 2 hand match on large slopes a few short metres left of the first bolt on unknown. Potential to extend further right. (We started a campus-y traverse from left to right going over the broken shale. Fun macho rubbish, but sketchy holds. Could be linked to gravity for a h i that grade problem). | ||||
V2 | Libertarianism
Sit-start under the finish of 'socialism' Trend right to the base of ' athletes foot. Long-low traverse. Optional extension to link'up athletes foot. | ||||
V2 | Socialism
Long, low traverse. Start at the 'Athletes foot' sit start. Traverse left (underclings, and jugs aplenty). 4ish metres. Throw left to a small rail, then bump to a jug. Optional extension to some highball and higher grade stuff. | ||||
V1 | Athletes foot
Sit start under double jug overhang left of 'gentle breeze'. Short couple of pumpy/balancey moves to the large bucket shaped like a foot. | 4m | |||
Rockhampton Play Pen Lower Buttress | |||||
20 | ★★ Fish and Chips
Current climbers know this route as Fish and Chips but no-one can recall where the name came from. There is a video from the 90s where local climbers called it One Hit Wonder and graded it as an 18. However, at some point an integral hold was partially broken off and this would explain why the grade is regarded closer to 20. | 15m | |||
Rockhampton Rosamond Bottom Tier | |||||
V1 | Risk of Impalement
Large dark boulder on the very right side of bottom tier. Standing start to the left of the arrow-shaped impalement rock. Straight up the middle and top out. PA: Warwick Davis, 12 Mayo 2021 | 6m | |||
V2 | Risk of Impalement RHV
Sit start variation on the knife edge of the impalement rock. PA: Warwick Davis, 12 Mayo 2021 | 6m | |||
Agnes Waters Town of 1770 The Death Boulders | |||||
V1 | Captain's Stairs
Sit start craggly crimps, head straight up following the seam. PA: Zac Horstman, Sep 2021 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Bobstay Timber
Sit start on two crimps directly under bulge of the prow, heading straight up to mantle. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ The Redeemer
Start on blocky jug at the back of the overhanging block. Trend right through overhang using pockets and underclings. Mantle right side of the arete. PA: unknow | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Paper thin
Up white wall and out through disquieting holds to top You are responsible for your own safety PA: Luke Forrester, 2021 | 5m | |||
Cania Gorge The North | |||||
20 | Wasted Days
Just left of 'Grum on the Bound'. Undercut start and pumpy. PAL: Josiah Hess, Jun 2017 | 15m | |||
Cania Gorge Castle | |||||
20 | ★★ Firefly
Shares the start of Serenity. Up crack to ledge, where Serenity goes left. Keep climbing straight up where a committing move (crux) will gain you the wall above. Continue up the line and belay in a small recess. 2nd pitch (grade 15) follows the exposed continuation crack to top. PA: Tony Barten, Joe Lynch & Stephan Fannigan, 2014 | 40m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Gravel and Wine
An old school classic, definitely not recommended for sport climbers. You will need to watch out for the odd loose flake and hollow block, not to mention the big sandy cave. This is the deep line that goes straight up the middle of the high, pale orange wall about 100m right of Firefly. Climb the steep groove past a short desperate layback section until you find yourself in the sandy cave. Bridge around the huge capstone, which has an ancient rap sling wrapped around it, and mantle onto a welcome ledge. The climbing steps up a gear here. Crank upwards on widely spaced holds and good gear to a good stance. Take care on the last moves into the belay cave as they are thin and quite run out. Rap off bolts. A second pitch awaits. PA: Tony Barten, Joe Lynch & Alex Cristino, 26 Mar 2016 | 30m | |||
20 | ★★ Alpine Corner
I’m not sure where the name came from, but it seems appropriate. It follows the prominent corner/chimney system midway between Gravel and Wine and Killer Whale. The rock architecture is pretty spectacular around here. Take big gear and wear a helmet.
PA: Alex Cristino, Joe Lynch & Antonius Barten, 16 Abr 2017 | 55m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Killer Dale
Starts just left of the start of Lucky 13 and then follow bolts up the arete, eventually finishing on the left side of the arete. Equip: Adam Kerz & Josiah Hess, 21 Sep 2020 PA: Dani Hess, 3 Abr 2021 | 35m, 8 | |||
Cania Gorge Back Country | |||||
20 | ★ Crossroads
The devil will meet you here! Climb the offwidth to the left of AOD to cave. Go right and up flake then continue straight up the wide crack to trad belay in cave. PAL: zac & Josiah Hess, 14 Mayo 2017 | 35m | |||
20 M0 | Old Man Ethics
Up the face to the right of Cranky Boys Corner passing one bolt and a tree on the way up. PA: Josiah Hess | 25m | |||
Cania Gorge Porange Wall | |||||
20 | ★ Zac and the Beanstalk
PA: 12 Ag 2021 | 20m | |||
20 | ★ Piping Shrike
The big corner at the left hand end of Porange Wall. Quite technical and sustained on excellent orange rock. PA: Joe Lynch, Tony Barten & Damon Hall, 25 En 2015 | 17m | |||
Cania Gorge Holly Cow | |||||
20 | ★★ Alpha Bacon
Start at the arête right of Snake Skin Crack. Up passing four bolts. Small cam after second bolt. number three friend in a pocket to right of small roof just below top. Move left to finish PA: Tony Barten & Melinda Sheppard, 4 Mar 2015 | 20m, 6 | |||
20 | ★★ Indigo Flash
Excellent rock, excellent protection and sustained climbing. Recommended. Climb the slabby corner that suddenly steepens to an overhanging twin crack corner at half height. Tricky exit. Finishes at a huge tree. PA: Joe Lynch & Tony Barten, 19 Sep 2014 | 20m | |||
20 | ★★ Tony's Crack
The beautiful thin hand and finger crack about 2 m left of the corner. It finishes at a belay station below the imposing orange headwall. PA: Tony Barten, Joe Lynch & Alex Cristino, 28 Mar 2016 | 12m | |||
20 | ★★ The Back
The wall above the crack. If you want to do the back you have to go up tonys crack. From the belay on top of Tonys crack. Pull through roof passing bolt. More bolts to top and a no 1and 4 b.d cam. Belay bolts on top. For full value do both climbs in one pitch. PA: Hamish Tony Barten, 12 Jun 2017 | 30m, 4 | |||
20 | Purple Love
Line going through steep orange overhang crack next to the offwidth. Climb on to ledge then blast into finger crack to overhanging boldge and finish up on finger crack to tree belay. Rap dowm Five Bells tree. PA: Yulid Shorrock & Pedro V, 21 Oct 2016 | 20m | |||
20 | ★ What He Said
Crack 8 meters right of PL. Thin crack with slaby mid section. Natural gear belay and rap back down from Five Bells tree. PA: Pedro V & Yulid Shorrock | 20m | |||
20 | ★ What She Said left variant | 20m | |||
20 | ★ "What She Said"
Start just below tree 1 meter right of "What He Said". Follow thin crack till break and up over thin finger bulge, bring small nuts and big cahoonas. Natural gear belay and rap down from Five Bells tree. PA: Pedro V & Yulid Shorrock, Oct 2016 | 20m | |||
20 | Five Bells
Climbs the black groove about 10m left of A Fine Romance. Up the deep line, past some vegetation, to a desperate black v-groove finish. Finish on the ledge immediately above with the big tree. PA: Joe Lynch, melinda shepperd, Cheyne Hobbs & Tony Barten, 5 Abr 2015 | 25m | |||
20 | ★★ Purple Moonbeam
An absolute classic involving sustained, well protected crack climbing on excellent rock. A must-do. Starts just to the left of J Crack ledge beneath the overhanging orange wall. Up the crack to the roof and undercling right around two successive overlaps. Then go straight up the jam crack to a ledge. The final short steep corner above has a hard exit (crux). PA: Joe Lynch, Min Sheppard, Tony Barten & Andy Freeman, 26 Oct 2014 | 30m | |||
20 | ★ The J Crack
Climbs the J-shaped crack on the upper wall. An exciting outing in an exposed position. Boulder straight up the orange wall past a bolt to join the crack. Continue boldly up to the tree and launch up the wide crack corner above. At the point where the crack suddenly steepens, place a huge cam (#6 BD) above your head, and traverse right across the wall on small edges to a rest on the arete. Climb straight up (avoiding the obvious loose block) to rejoin the original line which is followed to the top. PA: Joe Lynch, Min Sheppard & Tony Barten, 25 Oct 2014 | 30m | |||
Cania Gorge Cow Tracks | |||||
20 | ★★★ Gizmo
Strenuous crack climbing on excellent rock. Starts 15m right of Hang on to Me at a wide crack. Climb the steep wide crack until it closes down to a seam. Then layback up to a bolt and crank past it to jugs. Continue up the steep airy groove until it is possible to step onto the right face. Wander diagonally up rightwards to belay below a steep corner. PA: Joe Lynch, Tony Barten, Pedro V & Yulid Shorrock, 3 Oct 2016 | 30m | |||
20 | I'm Lichen It
Start 5 meters left of Q. Ascend rightward leaning crack till it joins Q at natural belay. Has second pitch still to be done. PA: Pedro V & Alex Cristino, 15 Abr 2017 | 30m | |||
20 | ★★★ Q
This is the major left-facing orange corner system starting about 20 m right of The Living Dead, and is initialed 'Q'. Climb up the thin hand crack corner, which is harder and steeper than it looks, until it widens into an overhanging chimney. Avoid this by hand traversing right to a big ledge on the arete. Belay here. An inviting face crack provides an obvious second pitch. However, as daylight was fading, we traversed up right to the tree and rapped off. PA: Tony Barten, Joe Lynch & Alex Cristino, 4 Oct 2015 | 30m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Borboleta
Start on orange wall 20 meters right of Cherry Bomb at thin crack with bolt about 7m up. Desperately up to clip bolt, then continue desperation to pass bolt. Gain the shake out jam, then onto some fancy jamming before moving right at ledge to double bolt lower off. Watch the sting in the tail. PA: Pedro V & Antonius Barten, 16 Abr 2017 | 20m, 1 | |||
Cania Gorge Four Seasons Point | |||||
20 | After You
I rapped the line and slipped in a couple of bolts."I wanted to climb that"' said youth. "Too late" said I. Youth puts on puppy dog eyes. OK you get first attempt,t if you cant do it first shot I take second shot and if I get up it, I am going to name it after you. Middle of three routes on wall. Clip bolt from boulder. start low. Up past bolt wire cam to next bolt. crux. then up wall trending left to top. PA: Tony Barten Min Sheppard & a Cast of thousands | 10m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ 30 by 30
Right hand arête of wall. Start on the right of course! Up the arête. PA: Cheyne Hobbs, 12 Ag 2014 | 10m | |||
20 | Pre-grin
Located above Happy Fun Time. Access by climbing up Cracklett. Min pulled a rabbit out of the bag to grab the first ascent of this tricky test piece. Up corner using some old time skills. To get down scramble down gully to right of final belay, then Rap to top of 4 seasons wall from tree. PA: Min Sheppard Tony Barten Craig, 11 Ag 2014 | 25m | |||
20 | Party Ice
Start right of the arete. Hollow rock and poor protection down low leads to a nice slab above. PA: Josiah Hess & Dani Hess, Ag 2020 | 18m |