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Resumen

Yabba creek is a collection of freestanding boulders scattered in a relatively remote creek cut deep between steep sided ridges.

Descripción

Yabba Creek is a developing bouldering area consisting of scattered boulders in a large creek bed. The scope of development leans towards steep bouldering on mostly bullet hard rock.

The quality of the problems seem to congregate in the red. A couple double digits classics to be done.

Acceso

Parking is at 26°32'39.7"S 152°26'43.0"E on a bend on the gravel Bella Creek road just after a cattle grid (driving east). Access is dependent on your approach.

  1. From Brisbane 2wd access is possible by getting to Kilcoy. Drive 1hour north from Kilcoy on the Kilcoy-Murgon road to Kingaham rd. The road is sealed as far as Peach Trees camping area (30min), then wide gravel road for 15min with a final 15min on a narrow but good track to the parking. Be careful along here as there will often be touring bikes or 4wd's coming the other way.

  2. From Sunshine coast. 4wd access is via a 45min drive over Mt buggery from Imbil. There is a couple of small creek crossings and a couple of steep climbs but is considered an easy 4wd road. Otherwise, Sunshine coast climbers will need to head south via Kilcoy.

Alojamiento

There is excellent camping at Peach Trees camping area, although this is still about 30min from the parking spot. Book online on the QPWS website.

Etiquetas

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Grado Vía

The access track is still in a state of flux but has now been temporarily marked with pink flagging tape, until the track becomes better travelled. From the carpark, follow the 4wd track along the fence line for about 5min until you reach a small clearing. A cut track can be found on the northern side. Enter here where you will find the first pink taped marker. This will take you down a short spur, then drop off into steep territory to your right(east). The track will descend and weave steeply until breaking south travelling under a small bluff. (At this point where it heads south, the track leaves the previous access track leading down then north towards the Bog Monster boulders. There are some rock cairns marking this way down but it's a bit vague.) Follow the pink tape south then into a steep dry creek/gully, and down to Yabba creek. The track comes out just north/downstream of the Yabba Dabba doo boulders. We recommend good hiking footwear. Travel light, but be self sufficient and remember that it is fairly remote and any incident down there could be quite an ordeal.

From the southern marked access track, follow the creek north (downstream) for about 15min to get to the Bog Monster boulders.

The northern access track currently takes you down to an open slope 10m above the creek. A short steep track to your right takes you down to the Bog monster boulders.

Bog monster is found in a hollow on the south side, which could be ickky after rain. The river side of the boulder has a highball project, and the 3 star line, Fear of the Unknown.

Sit as per Bog Monster but blast straight up the steep overhang. Has yet to be attempted but well fondled and not too hard. Will be good.

Way under, and further left of the Bog Monster, is another small ledge. Steep and powerful moves right, past the Bog monster start holds.

PA: 24 Jun 2023

From the depths, sit start on the ledge on the lip. Up on thin crimps and foot trickery.

PA: John Newby, Sep 2022

Same start as Bog Monster, but cross around the arete and up.

Stand using two lip holds and throw up left.

Mantle through the middle section of the boulder. Long move to fat edge.

Start on jug and slap to victory. The hand you throw with determines if you are John's or AJ's mate.

sit or stand. Up the corner/steep face

Sit start on the sloping ledge. Traverse left to gain the big ledge.

Stand start on pinches with high right heel. A few compression moves leads to a welcome jug. Top out from there

PA: Anthony Bristow, 5 Ag 2023

This Boulder is on the opposite side of the creek from the Bog Monster boulder. and North facing. Sits start right side of the arete on crimps to a devious mantle.

PA: John Newby, 24 Jun 2023

stand start left of the right arete. Crimps to an easy mantle. An easy version of Sun Demon.

PA: John Newby, 24 Jun 2023

Instead of dropping down right to Bog Monster from the end of the track, turn left and follow the vague track to the creek. River Journey can then be seen about 50m downstream. Note that you cant travel downstream from Bog Monster to River journey. You will need to go up and over or cross over the creek to pass The Howling on your way around.

Sit start with the obvious underclings. Snatch out right then up via the small crimp. May be soft for the grade.

PA: John Newby, Sep 2022

Sit start from the same undercling as River Journey. Hard moves right to gain the crimps in the middle of the short face.

PA: John Newby, Sep 2022

Sit start. throw left to pockety ledges and up.

PA: John Newby, Sep 2022

Sit start hanging the sloping ledge. Or lower. Traverse left to pockety jugs on the arete. A harder line may keep traversing left.

These Boulders can be seen on the opposite side of the creek, just downstream from River Journey. On either side of The Howling are project possibilities, as well as on a steep very high boulder just to the left, which may just host one of the hardest and biggest project lines at Yabba???

An outstanding line on big layaway's with some clever bodywork required to keep its grade. Sit start low on the jugs, traverse right a couple of moves before launching up the right side of the crack.

PA: John Newby, Sep 2022

Fun but a little bit scary traverse up and around.

PA: John Newby, Sep 2022

From crimps under and right of the arete, throw left to the arete and up. Finish with the crack traverse of Poop

PA: John Newby, Sep 2022

Hard and high. tough line.

This hanging prow is found another 50m downstream and on the same side as River Journey.

Sit start under the prow and climb the arete or to left or right of it. A somewhat strange problem, but worth doing. Use plenty of pads.

PA: John Newby, Sep 2022

On the right end of the Battleship boulder. Cramped sit start and up on edges to a comfy mantle.

PA: John Newby, Sep 2022

On the way upstream, this lone boulder is found about half way to the Yabba Dabba Doo boulders.

Low start left of the arete, on the obvious sloping ledge. Throw to the arete and rock around to the right to climb jugs on the face.

Start left hand on low pockety undercling and right hand on slopey slippery crimp, bump to side-pullish good crimp, then up jugs. (double digit variants starting on micro underclings)

Stand start on two side-pulls and move to the lip. A burly sit exists for a future adventurer.

PA: Zac Horstman, 7 Mayo 2023

Sit start on left side-pull and good right hold options. Straight up the arete! FA was done on stacked pad to reach the starting holds. It was felt up sitting a pad on a log but it has since been moved.

PA: Alexander Jones, 7 Mayo 2023

Start on the large left side-pull then use your right hand on the ? to ? and then mantle. Might be really hard or impossible.

From the track entry to the creek head upstream. The collection of big boulders can be spotted next to a cascade. Yabba Dabba doo overhang is just inside the bush through a small arch. The big boulders closer to the creek look to be hiding some very hard, and some quite high lines.

Sit start low on decent crimps, steep throw to ledges then mantle through the V groove.

PA: John Newby, Sep 2022

From the start of First blood, traverse up and right passing the launch holds of Yabba dabba doo direct, to escape right onto the flat topped boulder under the roof. Great series of tensioned pulling on good crimps.

PA: John Newby, 7 Mayo 2023

Sit start on slightly sloping ledge. Crank on crimps then traverse left to join First Blood. From the V, traverse right back right to mantle the roof.

PA: John Newby, Sep 2022

Sit as per Yabba Dabba Do, but from the crimps in the middle of the wall, dyno directly to the lip. Cracker of a line.

PA: Zac Horstman, 6 Mayo 2023

Sit start way under the overhang. Up on jugs until you can traverse left, crossing First Blood to finish through a shrinking box and an easy mantle finish.

PA: John Newby, Sep 2022

Start at lowest possible rail and blast straight up through steep terrain on small holds.

PA: Anthony Bristow, 5 Ag 2023

Sit start on lowest possible side-pull/undercling, pull through the start of Boxing Clever and up good holds into the throw of Yabba Dabba Doorect.

PA: Zac Horstman, 7 Mayo 2023

Sit start at the starting sloping ledge of Yabba dabba doo. Move right to the starting crimps of Boxing clever, and throw under the arch to the big pocket. Traverse right and up to finish. Strenuous strong fingers on very steep territory.

PA: John Newby, 7 Mayo 2023

Very hard and big line. Compression and big dynamic moves? to sloping edges.

Easy? It has been discovered that it is not easy. Stand start on the two sloping finger holds then straight up.

PA: Anthony Bristow, 5 Ag 2023

sloping crimps with poor feet.

Powerful compression start on crimps. Steep. Maybe an easier line to right of this.

Hang a low start on the rail. Crank and mantle and take the easy send.

PA: John Newby, Jun 2023

Stand on juggy rail, up and left to mantle.

Sit start with very small crimps and throw to sloping top. Hard mantle over. Climbs a bit contrived as its a fight againts the urge to reach over left to the holds on Georges line.

PA: John Newby, 6 Ag 2023

Across the creek from Yabba Dabba Doo boulder sits a wall with a short overhang in the middle.

Stroll up the raised platform and use your indoor technique to gain the flake and slap a mantle up ya. Pad this one well. The sapling growing in the flake will eventually win I think.

PA: Alexander Jones, 6 Mayo 2023

These boulders are about 15min upstream below the photogenic Yabba Falls. Follow the right side of the creek until the final pool below the falls and scramble across. The boulders are only climbable in low water conditions. The boulders are reportedly named by the original settlers, after the Indigenous farm hand named 'Super'.

Jump to the obvious protrusion and mantle. Very good fun with a little exposure.

PA: John Newby, 24 Jun 2023

Super hard amazing line of crimps, all at the wrong angle, on the 45degree approach to the super mantle. Double digit project?

Low start at the big holds left of the overhang. Traverse right on crimps to get under the prow then up with open hands and grunts. A boulder of two halves.

PA: John Newby, Nov 2023

From the same low start of Bacon and Ooffs, crank straight up into the V corner. Chicken out with a traverse right when established to finish up Bacon and Ooffs.

PA: John Newby, Nov 2023

Sit on the shield and figure out how to gain the arete and undercling at 50 degrees. Proper classic boulder. Grade to be confirmed.

PA: Alexander Jones, 24 Mar

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