Ascensiones en Area C

Very sharp for my, at this point rather violated, finger skin. Worth the pain.

No one has bothered logging an attempt on this boulder, probably ever, and it's not in the guidebook so I have no hesitation in updating it. The sit start adds negligible quality or difficulty to the problem so I chucked "optional" on it. Probably the most excited and motivated I've been on a climb of this rock type at Toohey (highly sharp/coarse), so I reckon it's a good little line.

Pleasant start, then just an exercise in not slipping.

Did a few variants eliminating certain hand- and foot-holds. Quite a lot of fun! One of the best in the forest for sure

Low finger skin day, surprised so little had grown back since Thursday night! Managed to get into the second move of Left of Ferns a couple times from the start. This climb is probably at the limit of my power endurance. So much time under tension! Think I've optimised the beta but only time will tell. Leaving it until after Townsville.

Far more enjoyable than I'd given it credit for earlier. I'm excited to find out what Left of Ferns feels like (pump-wise) when doing the whole traverse.

Day flash, much easier when cold

Pretty class movement for a short sharp softish V4.

Goes to show the conditions do matter. Sieged this thing over summer with Declan and it did legitimately feel at least a grade or two harder.

Came back today on a cool morning and sent it first go, first climb of the day. V6 does feel appropriate when the conis are good.

Best climb in the forest - I've always said it

I can't believe it's not Butter Me Up (i.e. eliminating the artificial pocket left and the undercling right)

Personal Grade - V7/+?

Done the "original" way without using the drilled pocket out left or the undercling to the right. It's a dramatically better climb without imo.

This has been by far my longest project for a boulder, with probably 6-7 sessions over the last month and a bit. A long time was spent figuring out the subtleties of the moves, which may have been worse for me (195cm all torso, 201cm wingspan, quite difficult to be on the feet but still under the slopers).

Throughout the projecting process it felt as punishing as other V8s I've tried (which would be consistent with the original grade) but once all the subtleties were figured out it felt relatively easy moving statically through the slopey&shouldery sequence which is a definite weakness.

Really fantastic climbing and everyone who has done it with the undercling should try without as it climbs a lot better (but harder) using the original holds.

Arguably I now have beta for the whole climb, although I'm yet to stick two of the moves. Beta may yet change a little.

Ryan being the good sport that he is suggested that I see how many times I could send this before he got it...

PS this is the most underrated problem in the whole forest.

2nd V6 and I am psyched. Very beta intensive, great climbing, worth the skin. Thanks to Albert for the chats and the vibes. Amazing to see how many different methods there are.

Got the second move! Psyched. Feels close which probably means its about another 5 sessions away.

Possibly drifted into the neighbouring climb but no idea really.

First move dialed, end feels fine, just gotta get move 2 and 3 figured out.