Vías como deportiva en Australia

Start as for Sack of Woe, then left to very steep prow. Joins the last moves of Up Jumped the Devil.

Do esoteric panties/evil agenda to the crux of esoteric agenda and then break left for a very hard 3 extra bolts of climbing until you reach sideways rains anchor.

The future.

"Dangle pigs". Australia's 2nd 35. Formerly a Lee Cossey project, generously gifted to Alex to keep him occupied. Starts just shy of the wall splitting arete 15m right of Ristretto. Tends rightward to breach the main roof close to its right hand end, and up wall above.

Start 8m right of Beta Vinyl, 3m L of Tiger Snatch. Heads straight up, passing through the left end of the low horizontal break of Velvet project / Tiger Snatch. Then heads straight up to Sitting Bull's final break. Finish as for Sue's Last Ride.

Rumour is it's pretty hard. Direct start to Mono No Aware. The first 35 to be sent by an Australian (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). Tom

Australia's first 35 (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). An open project for over a decade. Alex took about 20 shots to send it, not long after he'd onsighted 9a at Siurana.

Ascents

• Alex Megos - 18 August 2013
• Wiz Fineron - 14 May 2019
• Ben Cossey

Start slightly left of Knifey Spooney. The fainted crack feature on that compact wall. This line link into the crux of Spoonman. Probably the hardest climb in Queensland at the moment.

No sure if it goes. Start The Seam and stay in the it all the way. Two more bolts allow to link directly to the upper wall of Spoonman.

Bouldery start on tiny slopers and a shallow hueco. Once over the lip do Friction Addictions

Was Vince's project, eventually sent by Tom O'Halloran. Jump start off the boulder and then up up and away forever, topping the cliff to finish. Vince climbed it to the first anchors above the lip and called that Spacecake (30).

Rad rock, hard moves then the crux!! pull from a tiny crimp and its in the bag! Up Motor Pussy to 3rd bolt (??) then head right.

Climb Mr Squiggle, then just before the anchor head left into steepness to the top of the crag. Tom

Start as for Lord Elphinstone and The Elephant Man then heads right to vague prow and all the way up up up to the top roof. The boulder in the roof is a tricky one, finishing with an all points off dyno a loooong way above the ground. Finishes out on the highest, furthest out part of the cliff. All time!

Stopping at the hands free rest under the roof is an insanely good 33.

Climb Sitting Bull to the final break. Up a few moves then start heading right past bolt to come into Bandula crux. Finish as for Bandula. Lots of moves, no rest! Tom

Beta Vinyl into Tiger Cat. All the cruxes and no rest, outrageous! Grade unconfirmed.

Yet another impressive send by Alex, giving it hard 34. Shared start with Astral Traveller. Head up to small ledge and straight up with increasing difficulty.

Great fun. Climbs up to 1 move before Einfinger.... crux and busts out right to finish up old open projects.

The greatness of life is impossible to realise before you cast your eyes upon this, the route of all routes. At the time of completion it was the hardest route in the country and the hardest climbed by an Australian. Up Fantastic Mr Fox and without dangling about on the rest, bust up and into a thin crux until you reach Grey Area's rest, shake out here then finish up Grey Area and climb to the top of the cliff.

Boulderyness to top of cliff, anchors over lip up high and left past the "lonely virgin" finger lock.

Start: double dyno off cool slopes on boulder wall.

Variation to Mr Pink.

A crazy extension to Metamorphosis climbing all the way to the top of the cliff. Endurance test piece.

Daniel

Extension of Cheese Gobbler that goes all the way to the top of the cliff via a whole bunch of hard independent climbing and then the top of The Big Cheese. Original vision by Robbie, new vision and execution by Tom.

Climb original White Ladder then continue via one more boulder problem to the ledge.

Jake Bresnehan

Short but desperately powerful climbing. Excellent. Originally climbed as Attack Mode to the fixed biner and given grade 32. Start at the huge handlebar jug right of the massive fallen boulder.

a.k.a Enter the Dragon, a.k.a. Mortal Combat. This is the subtle groove about 6-8m R of Mr J's arête. "33/34" with tricky beta on both cruxes and lots of kneebar action, says Alex. Start at the DRB at the base of Venom. Trend L past FH, through desperately blank looking bulge, to follow the line of anti-holds up the attractive faint groove, joining Venom at the big break. Nalle reported "8B boulder section with very precise and shoulder intensive moves, bad feet and the two worst slopers I’ve ever seen on a route. This is followed by an easier but absolutely amazing scoopy section to a pretty ok rest. From there you set up for one of the craziest dynos I’ve ever done! If you stick the low percentage dyno, there’s still a sustained run-out section with long moves to the anchor".

This route was previously known as The Sean Myles Project and bolted in around '92 by its English namesake. Like a woody problem on classic Arapilisian bums through a steep wall to finish up crimpy headwall. Start at base of roof left of Aristocrat (clip the 3 dynas with single biners for ease of climbing, and to keep rope away from holds). Slappy compression leads to base of seam. Clip bolt at lip and head straight up via pulls between edges and last bolt to easy finish and single bolt lower-off.

Start Attack mode but go direct.

The alternate unethical approach to https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/sutherland/route/13097509

Sit start matched on a large jug at the far right end of the cave. Traverse about a meter left on some crimps to meet the Sloper Rail line running along the roof. Follow this to the crack and all the way out the cave traversing right along the face before a scary top out.

Liam Buckman

A striking line up the blank, overhanging shield. Easy climbing leads to a powerful crux with multiple options, all of which are hard. Followed by a few pump cruxes high above the hard moves.

Scartrek-Diplomacy link then Stugang Ext gaston crux into The Wormhole Search.

Climb 'Astrobatics', then keep girdling to the right across Mr Meeseeks until you end up at the end of Desperado. The longest and hardest route in the cave.

All the moves had been done but no one was able to take care of this one until a climber from Scotland, Robbie Phillips visited Queensland. He sent the route on his last day in the country thereby establishing Queensland's current hardest Sport route.

Bouldery start trending left on line of weakness, before joining into BTHTF at the bolt below the headwall (ignore bolts out right which need to be removed).

Robbie re-named "Taking Care of Business Project" to "Haggisaurus Rex" due to the Dinosaur skin-like nature of the rock and the fact that Robbie only ate Haggis the whole time he was in Australia to maintain his Scottish Highlander Powers! Rumour has it they shipped 70 whole Haggis' to Australia just for Robbie..."

Start off the pile of rocks above the ledge, 15m L of Chimp Chowder. Boulder problem start, to rightward traverse, then radical wall of exciting gymnastic moves lead to a feisty finish, classic!

As for Brain Haemorrhage for about 12m, then trend L up the biggest baddest steepest part of this sector, finishing a couple of metres R of Bloodline. Going left into Bloodline is not on route. Do not climb into Bloodline at all.

Oz's first 34! Since relegated to a tame 33. A 6m direct variant of Tripe, squeezed in between Don't Believe and Tripe. Ben Tom Jake

The chalk at the start says 32, but the guidebook says 33. Batman start. Use rollers/extenders and skip the 5th or 6th bolt, so that rope drag doesn't make the crux easier!

Start: up levitation then move leftwards into search and destroy, eliminates the batman start to SAD and is the BEST/ONLY way to climb this route!!!

The left hand line in this feisty little cave. Campus the start and thrutch up to the single U-bolt anchor. Good times.

Direct finish to Touch and Go - a total one move wonder. An old open project sent by Chris Webb. Anchor is one good ringbolt and one old dynabolt.

Pooferator into Truckstop into Horseshoe into Fabricator.

4m right of Up Jumped the Devil. Climbs straight up. Nowhere to hide on this. One of the best bouldery routes in the mountains. New sequence makes it a bit easier than the FA beta.

The right hand line in the 'second' cave. Awesome climbing thru a great roof to an extremely hard boulder at the lip. Good 27'ish to the lip, * . Bolted on lead by Macca and Dave. 2 metres leftt of Activation on buttress directly above where the track meets the crag Up wall to the roof, out roof, up headwall and right then thru top roof to point then jump. Excellent climbing through roof.

Steep, Hard, bloody awesome 4 metres right of Who'd be a cop project. Very hard climbing thru steep territory, many a strong lad had a crack before Chris got the tick.

Originally bolted by Rowan Druce and generously offered to the masses, Tom O'Halloran, seeing a classic on offer, was quick to pounce. Start as per Brummel Hook (also possible to start up 1st 2 bolts of Tiger Snatch), then head straight up the immaculate orange stone to finish on the high black head wall. Slightly easier than Tiger Cat (opinions are divided on this...) and originally given 32, but has now seen an upgrade. Andrea , Ryan

Tiger Snatch to the jump then head right into Kitten Mittens for the drive by move. Finish up Tiger Vinyl. A classic!

Starts 5m right of Tiger Cat and is feisty straight off the deck with some brilliant and brutal bouldering. Suck in some oxygen at halfway then head up to join Love Cats at its crux, following this to where LC and TS trend back left. Instead peel off rightward under roof to motor up the headwall. Hoik your rig left and right while trying not to feel like a flag in a stiff wind. Sitting Bull joins into the same headwall finish. Stu

Tiger Cat to the half way jugs then across right and finish as for Beta Vinyl. The Don't Believe the Hype of Elphinstone.

Wowsers! All time mega classic. Start as per Aristocat, boulder its main crux and then head into a mind boggling amount of sustained climbing, culminating with a potentially heart breaking finish. Absolute stonker! Stu Monique Jorge flash

Start: As for 'Some Kind of Bliss', then traverse a loooooong way before weaving up the wall above. A mission.

"The Ticklish Dog". At times a link-up is better than both halves and this recent addition proves this. An absolute classic. Climb Dogbite to the bottom of the slab then go left via a fantastic boulder problem to the marginal rest on Mr Tickle, squeeze this for all it's worth then to the top of this route.

To avoid entirely stealing/climbing what was Ben's project (FMF), a variant was done in which all of the business of Ben's project is climbed. Hence the name.

Ever imagined what the best route in the cosmos would be like?...wonder no longer and get yourself down to DF today! The most technical, fingery, tensiony, positiony, brain flaking hard route around. There is no route better.

Was for four years the hardest route in the country. A classic Miller route, involving a fine balance of power and precision.

Tucker Time is sooooo rad. A technical boulder problem on the face down low leads to a massive rest you can bury bodies in, then truckin' on upward is another little punch followed by the crux of Super Duper Goo and finish with the best roof climbing known to man. Skip the last two bolts in the roof, get a little slack and take the cleanest 20m fall you've ever had.

Tucker Time.

No under dogs here. Shares a similar style to its neighbour Rhythm & Stealth. A lovely start up Impossible Princess leads directly into the wall above, past the Rhythm Method anchors and trending rightward and becoming rather tricky. Finishes on the same anchors as Rhythm & Stealth.

He says he cant but its the belief he can.

Start up Cheese Monster past the first crux. At the break climb right, past the crux of "Non-Dairy Cheese-Like Substitute". At the break under the roof, head straight out past slopes and edges (V9) and finish with a big move to the break. Awesomely sustained climb, vision and bolts by Robbie Le Breton, climbed by Vince Day.

Route renamed on request of Vince Day in 2020.

Lee Cossey

Tom O'Halloran

One of the hardest routes in 'Victoria'. A sustained full frontal assault on the highest part of the cave.

Start: Start just R of DF.

Just another incredible looking line on Taipan. It's the orange streak directly above Snake Flake's anchor, climbed in a single pitch from the ground.

An extension to Groovy, this was briefly the hardest route on the wall and may be the best. Climb it in 1 pitch from the ground. The sheer face above the finish of the Groovy groove is sparsely bolted (despite a dubious retrobolt by Dave Graham ... which lasted about 5 seconds after he left) up the black streak to a lower off. Can seep. Equipped by Zac Vertrees and Mike Law (with the top lower-off added by Jake Bresnehan), this was attempted by a who's who of Australian hard-men over 7 years before Ben's success.

Ben Cossey FA of Groove Train https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-PsXKda6JU

The visionary black streaks and water grooves about 5-8m R of Naja. The joke used to be that Steve Monks "marked his turf" at the top of Naja after every shot; it looks like perhaps Lee did too! Start as for Naja. Up Naja for 2 or 3 bolts then traverse right via an obvious undercling flake a few metres above the low roof. Use long (2m) extenders for this section. Now follow the incredible grooves, ignore the half-height anchor, and continue up via amazing sustained climbing on slopey edges to the top of the wall in one single mega pitch. Rap anchor (55m).

Deterred many very strong suitors for many years and finally fell to the Kiwi Wizz kid

Joins the hardest bits of both routes and is supposedly a grade harder than each of them. At least two repeats, Chris Lindner in 2009 and Byam Keil in 2023.

Start as for Pretty in Punk, finish as for Punks in the Gym.

Adds an additional 5m of perfect climbing to the start of MP, start as for the sub zero boulder problem and continue into MP.

Named after the route stole the Kim’s front teeth while he was bolting it. Start at the end of the fixed walking rope. Climb up past 3 tricky boulder problems. A good one.

Climb up the start of the arch. Break left to gain small corner system. Crazy shouldery stemming to reach the jug out L. Traverse R on edges to a good rest then to the belay past some funky moves. One hell of a good route.

Direct Start into Street Fighter. V10 if your 6 and a half feet tall. Harder if shorter.

Fred's finest linkup. Given 33 but settled at 32 after repeats? Start as for 36, then through Stugang Extension crux then climb the holds just right of circus street linking back to the end of the cave.

Townsville's first 5.14! The king reigns supreme.

Un-climbed open project. FH on the main face lead the way up a slightly over hanging, blank looking face, following a faint seam feature. No DBB.

Climb Plumbus and keep trucking left into the hard end crux of astrobatics.

Mega extension of 'Event Horizon'. After the last draw of 'Event Horizon' head right across cheese blocks and then continue right and then up the compact head wall.

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Finishes at anchor on right shared with Gladiator.

Was previously known as 'Motor Finance Wizard project'. Start up Thriller boulder, but instead of cutting left into Evil at the ledge, head right and up the blankish face. Huge throws on slopey holds guard the crux. The top is exciting and ever so pumpy.

Start with the boulder problem of Evil. After the hard clip go left across a series of bulges. After some intricate betas and a few kneebars, you link into Esoteric Agenda under the top crux. Finish as per EA.

Epic power endurance test piece. One of the purest pieces of climbing in QLD for chur.

Climb TFVOM to the off width of RP then blast straight back right into a thin pebble belt. Next is a huge dyno then some blankness going right. At this point it could keep going towards pebble or straight up to anchor right of RP. Hard to know at this point. Bloody hard

A reachy start with a brutal boulder sequence through the roof, guards 20 meters of amazing jugs to the finish.

Monique Forestier's 2003 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 32.

Start up Brain Haemorrhage to roof and head left to join Bloodline. Quite a few dynamic moves heading left up via the obvious left leaning ramp.

You'll arrive with your feet on Bloodline ledge. Suck in the oxygen and finish up Bloodline.

Note... You might be tempted to stay low avoiding the classic ramp (crux). If this is the case, give yourself a 29 tick.

Far left hand route.

a rad gymnastic route, marred by some dodgy glueing. 2 boulder problems inbetween jugs.

Start: 15 meters right of mr september.

Start as for Birthday Salmon and truck up direct-like to join Staring at the Sea at the rest hole. From there bust straight up through the boulder problem that earns you the grade without stepping left into Tsunami!! Chug out the roof and finish at the top.

Start up Tug Boat then move R into Point Break/Microwave. Roman

Start as for Microwave, head steadily left across Point Break and Tugboat and finish as for Tsunami (not Tugboat). Monique

Batman start.

Start: Route 60m to the left of 'Dr Foopsickle'.

Super thin and powerful climbing. Has some hard-to-clip (and ridiculously oversized) bolts.

Has a very sordid history, as holds and grades have come and gone. Start under the obvious blank arete, just right of 'Junket Pumper'.

Jack_Masel | Jake Bresenhan

Links the crux of Pooferator into the crux of Equaliser. Roman (starts at 12:35)

As for Chulahoma to ledge, then head further right under roof to next line of bolts. Funky climbing to make it through roof and around lip. Grade is a total guess. Tom was working moves and had no real sequence sorted. Went up for another working burn and just climbed the whole way through. He went back a few years later and couldn't figure out the sequence that worked and it all felt hard.

Start at prow through ferns. Up steep, right trending climbing to ledge (27 to here). Then blast out big holds and big moves in roof to a jumpy crux at lip (careful with belay). Then climb to top of the cliff.

Start up Mississippi Moonshine then head across left through juggy but surprisingly punchy roof to join Assassins at its final rest and crux.

Few meters right of Gravel Rash. Up steep scoop to base of roof. Bouldery through roof then head right to Assassins/Hashish final boulder. Bolted by Zac Vertrees. Ben Cossey has temp bolts going direct out the roof. Stay off them, they will not hold a climbing fall.

Up seamstress for a few bolts then break right and on through rooves and head wall.

Short and hard Lower off from fourth (fifth ?) bolt, at ramp ledge last two bolts aren't worth it and will be removed eventually.