Vías en Australia para grado seleccionado

Companion line to 'Hidden Secrets'

Start: 4m R of 'Hidden Secrets'.

Sit-start onto light overhang connecting odd holds.

The wall left of Asgard. Not allowed to use Asgard's holds.

1. Pitch 1 (**22) is sport, 4 rings to DBB. Highball boulder problem to the first bolt, stick clip if not up to it!

2. Pitch 2 is trad 15, with one carrot at the top. Most people skip pitch 2 and step R to do Mean Streak pitch 2 instead.

Sit-start for 'Vienna frank'. Start with right hand in the low crack on the arete and left hand in the crack/side-pull higher up on the face.

Beware of the choss-fest and crumbling holds all along the bottom of this climb.

Sit start on the big flat slope and up. Pretty solid V3,...apparently graded in according to international standards.

A nice tufa route in the middle of the wall. It has some hidden good holds.

Sit-start just right of National Park with a lefthand undercling and righthand sidepull. Use the huge blocky foothold. Climb up through the nose on big holds via big moves.

Stand start matched in vertical sidepull. Head up using vertical fault lines and crimps to top out on good holds.

Hard start and up face left of arete.

The left hand arete of the cave at far right side of the main wall. Start in the middle of the cave close to the ground and traverse out left up the arete. Carefully mantle to the top. See beta

Techy. Starts up the back of the bowl.

A daunting ride, especially across the final five-metre diagonal roof. At the undercut wall about 18m L of The Sandman. Stick-clip the high ring to start. Eight glue-in ring bolts in total. Lower-off.

Start at any of the circle of jugs at the base then at the end a knee bar helps get to a huge holde up and to the right

Good looking sit-start problem near the RH arete leading up to an obvious jug.

10m left of the 'Gorge Heritage Walk' sign near the oval is a faint path; this takes you to a large boulder perched on the edge of the cliff. Rap in from tree at top to semi hanging belay on cams/wires at the small bush and horizontal break.

Up the crack which gradually increases in size from small fingers to #1 camalot; the location of the crux will depend on your hand size.

Doubles of small/medium cams.

Sit start at jug on right arete as per Ordinary Arete. Traverse leftwards staying below the top. Make big moves to finish on the left arete.

Start on biggest boulder. Up the ledge and step right to crack then onwards through roofs. Better to be short or tall on this

Start in the big pocket and dyno to top of arete to jug. Then carefully up ramp.

Mauricio Chino

As for Seamstress to the ledge and through its crux then out left and finish up Steves' Route via pockets and crimps. Good fun if you're bored of Seamstress.

First 5 bolts of HW then directly up to tricky mantle and slab finish

Wonderful direct finish to 'Assistance Required'. Originally climbed Sweet Surrender to the second scoop and then moved right and up wall to high central scoop. Many (most?) parties climb Assistance Required into high central scoop. From the scoop, go straight up steep wall past small cam on lovely rock and over bulge.

Starts 3m right of EP. The first few metres can be badly affected by impressive green mounds of seepage during/after the wet season. Bridge against the tree and cliff to bypass the often wet start. Head right at 3rd bolt and mantle.

The first bolted route at Frog! Kim Carrigan promptly skipped the bolt on the second ascent, reclaiming the hardness of Frog from the bolt-clipping infidels! Starts at the small crack 3m L of MPFC (although most parties start from the ledge above). Off-balance moves up the thin diagonal crack to an awkward move into a sentry box to gain a rest. From here, clip the bolt, step R, and blast straight up the face to easier ground.

The bolted orange corner.

Follow seam up through good features on steep terrain, Crux is after the 4th bolt.

Start back underneath low hanging roof on big and thin underling, out to edge of lip then up arete using any holds.

Funky start, easy middle and thin techy finish!

An original classic of Sissy that suffered damage when someone decided to smash off holds 8 and 10 in 2007.

It still goes and is worthwhile but grade has never been confirmed. Give it a go and share your thoughts.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Phillip Booth

Start up Electric Blue (trad gear), follow carrots until Electric Blue breaks right. Follow spaced rings upwards past plenty of technical slabbing to DBB.

Same as Flapping around but finish to the right.

Climbs crumbly looking short face 5m left of Elfin.

Stick clip first bolt to protect tricky moves off the ground.

Straight forward but pleasant face climbing on small holds. Sustained and quite powerful for such a 'Queensland length' route.

Sit/Stand start on good jugs or edges on R arete of boulder. Up and L to low face crimp then up to sidepull flake and mantle. Footwork essential.

An unusual pitch that is both harder and better than it looks. Start as for Speechless, pull around the arete on the right, then up the blocky line to move up left to an interesting exit left of the thin crack through the bulge.

Stand start from arete in corner then climb up and top out.

SK into cave, then L line of bolts out cave to very top of wall. Do not confuse to 2 bolts with fixed gear on them (wtf?) at the top of the cave for the anchors, it keeps going. Exposed exciting finish!

Up arete to a very hard finish. Traverse R at the top to Wall Thing.

Right hand in the big sidepull pocket, feet up high and dyno for the top.

Variant finish to 'Dream of Purple Peach Popsicles' and by far the better way to go. Avoid the final chimney by stepping onto the R face and up past a bolt. Great exposure and brilliant crimpers make this the preferred way to go!

Boulder start 'The Rasp', marked "R".

L13, R9, heel hook 9, R17, L16, R22, M22

Don't get crossed up on this one. Long first moves to a tough mantle next to the boulder.

Same start as Fat Neck, but directly right into large undercling, then to LH sloper and better RH sloper holds. Up and left through more underclings/sidepulls to good, round jug hold up under big roof.

Sit start. Follow the crack up. https://vimeo.com/228323729

2m right of corner. Up the techo red wall.

Start in middle of undercut bulge, front of buttress (same as for Tough Love and No Schmecking). STICK CLIP FIRST BOLT. Bouldery start straight up over bulge, (look for big pockets on right) to dynamic move to jug on left, stance on ledge then straight up the slab with fantastic incuts and pockets. Same lower off as for Tough Love. Enjoy.

Smiley black corner

Start below the beginning of Mummy Dust and dyno your way up to a good jug near the first manky bolt. The arete and big break are off, as is matching hands.

Outstanding right facing flake up high guarded by a tough face move to get off the ground. Way steeper and pumpier than you think it will be.

A good warm up on bolts with some tufa up high. Start 50m upstream from the intersection of the Red Track and the bottom of the gorge. Depending on the level of water in the lagoon, and the state of the deposited silt and rocks, you might get your feet wet. The expansion bolts and dodgy anchor on this route could do with replacement - treat them with caution.

Orange overhung arête 10m below and 20m left of the Gallery main cave. Ringbolts! Stick clip first bolt.

Mantle small waist high ledge, stretch to small side pull, then top out

Power to the sidepull and up through water runs to an easier top out.

Sit start on undercling. Finish matched on sloper to right.

Climb the right hand side of the cave tending right to the big hueco on the face. Use a low R/H side pull/ pinch thing, gain the big hueco then move up to finish matched on the ledge

Start: Sit start as for "we'll never make it out alive"

Steep with two bouldery moves and a very big novelty diving board! The left most route in the cave. 5 ringbolts and lower-off. Last few meters is chossy.

SS left of crack on slopers and smaller holds without using crack

The amazing looking, yellow, honey-comb roof 15m left of Super Grover. Up wall and then crank out the 3-4m horizontal roof on jugs and pockets to finish on holds over the lip. Anchor has permadraws on it to make cleaning a little easier

Technical contortions up the right arete of the small face above and to the right of Alchamy Wall. Tree belay.

Hanging start, reach around bulge to slot and sloper, dyno to jug mantle over to left side pull. Up you go. Traverse left to get down.

Clip the 1st bolt on IRB then step R and up the middle of the wall. Up to the top roof and out the flake. Finish with hands on the top jug.

Thin corner then jug on the arete. Use of the slab to the left or finishing up the crack lowers the grade to about 21. DBB.

Bring a double set of RP's

2m left of WiW thin climbing at start leads to crux with great steep moves at top.

Line of bolts 3 meters right of TT. When you get the triangle hold to chest height, head right to corner and up the line of shrubs. Alternatively from the triangle hold keep going up to the next break before going right into the corner. Two short hard sections with jugs leading to and from each.

Just about as good as drop-zone. Similar in style. The thin crack leading into the wavy slab-face immediately left of Drop Zone.

Just left of WiW, but crosses over mid height and thru the roof and up to jugs.

As for "Pumpkin Puree" then right line of rings to ledge and DRBB

6,3,8,9,5 From the big, flat edge, go up using good edge. Very Nice.

Great climbing. Start climbing up easy to the ledge. Can be finished here at 16. Continue up the face on good holds with fun crux moves.

Starts in the left back of the constant gardener cave, makes three or so moves towards the lip of the cave and links into the Constant Gardener.

Sit start the arete and proceed through some hard crimping. Get ready to be greeted by an interesting lip move and challenging mantle. Please do not brush off the tongue orchids. Fun Problem.

Long and pumpy. Consistent climbing up the left end of wall.

Up the short, blunt arete, avoiding using the boulder or wall to the right. Bouldery crux getting past a fixed hanger, then thin slabbing above, past a carrot bolt with a large head. Originally graded 24, but realistically is only 22, or possibly 23 if you're short.

Trad anchor required, then scramble off left to descend, or alternatively continue up Waning Crescent. Rebolted Jan 2016.

SS with letterbox jug past small edge in roof to the lip. Mantle.

Take a break from TLGL, you probably bloody need it. Match start at the right break, up to the yellow crack traverse finishing at WH.

Run out between 1st and 2nd, and 2nd and 3rd bolts with ground-fall potential. 4 bolts. Safer to bring trad gear for protection between bolts. 5th bolt is for the direct finish out left.

Start 4m left of Constructive Vandalism on sequency pockets. Climb over bulge with long moves and traverse right to join anchors of Constructive Vandalism.

Stand-start and climb directly up the discontinuous crack. Avoid holds on the surrounding climbs.

Up the wall via good pockets below the roof's right edge to slink off right at the roof.

Thank your lucky stars that this is no longer graded 19.

Start: Start as for 'Full Moon'.

This route was climbed on the 10th anniversary of the discovery of Frog. The gear is excellent but spacious; however, stopping to place it makes things a lot more exciting! Up the obvious line R of TGON featuring very technical face and crack climbing moves to the stance. Follow a thin seam as the difficulties gradually ease to the top.

Lots of hard moves. Careful to the 2nd bolt. Bottom (crux) is mossy (always in shade) and too slippery on feet unless had days of sunshine. Rap/belay from ring 11. Starts 1m left of the tree stump.

From the back of the cave follow the slots out through the roof.

Shared start then right

Sit start matched on flat ledge. Back wall is off for feet. Straight up through shallow roof to slot and top out.

Stand start using small edges on a very bad footer, slap the slopers and mantle.

Smaller overhang below the witness boulder. Start low on crimps, blast up and left to a vicious mantle.

Dappled face of high pinnacle. Climbs the face L of the bolts not the easy flake way off to the R. This route is thin, technical and tricky. Shares anchors with IaTN so requires long 1.5m slings to lower off.

Please note: Closed during Peregrine Falcon nesting season (August- November)

The first route here.

start 10m right of L.B.D. Up the wall and flake feature to crux dyno. This used to be grade 21 but a key hold snapped off the end so now it's harder.

Classic thin hand crack - a very sustained jamming test-piece. Take plenty of #1 camalots

The distinctive black corner 5 metres right of Cayenne, finishing left above the corner.

Sit start on arete with right hand on crimp on opposing wall and left hand on good edge on arete. climb the hanging arete and top out.