Vías en Oceania para grado seleccionado

Gently overhung sport climbing past seven FH's to an exciting conclusion which often sees pumped leaders take to the air.

Start: 3m R of 'Procrastinator' (before rock slab starts rising R-wards).

Good fun. Straight up, starting on the right side of the left of the two gum trees.

The undercut buttress has a white/yellow streak down its left side. This is it. High first bolt over the rooflet, then sustained climbing up the gently overhung orange wall. Popular.

Slab with some nice pockets (don't you wish this went on for 50m?), then sustained headwall which should make your arms feel warm.

The best warm up here.

Fantastic climbing through steep territory on edges of vaguely Africa shaped plate. Up and over the lip trending L and up to recently installed rap station/lower-off.

Start: Start in cave at right end of point pure, stick clip first bolt.

Rebolted 2004. '23' in the 2015 Blue Mountains Guidebook. Rest assured that it is indeed 22. The crack/seam in the middle of the wall. Be careful of some hollow rock.

The first climb on the Sunnyside and one of the best. Popular with lots of bolts. Starts up the obvious right leaning, shallow corner.

A nice route - but why everyone thinks it is worth 3 stars we will never know.

Start: Start to the right of the blunt arete on the right hand side of the wall where there is a big chimmney.

The arête. You can start direct or traverse in from GL. Take care clipping third ring.

More bouldery than Strip Clubs. Start just right and up the slab (like all routes in this sector). Daunting black overhang then headwall. Where's that finishing jug...?

Now re-bolted with ring bolts. It's a good warm up, and more so if you continue up the last few metres of Whodunnthat (still 22). Start as for Ratcat then trend right crossing the flake feature. A medium cam in a break below the first bolt (or long stick clip) helps alleviate leg breakages.

Great climbing in a superb position.

Start: 6m L below apex of overhanging orange wall.

1. 35m (16) At mark climb slightly left to first FH. Nine FH's up to rap station below steep wall on L. The fifth bolt is invisible. When the way appears blocked by a ferny ledge, climb onto the ledge via its left side and it should become apparent.

2. 12m (21) Climb R past two close FH's. Then straight up past a third FH to rap station on pedestal.

3. 30m (22) Straight up orange corner and face above. At ninth FH step R and up to rap station on sloping ramp. This is the standout pitch of 'Celestial Wall'.

4. 10m (22) Short and a bit awkward. Mount bulge from L. At ledge on top, rap anchor is on L. A fixed rope leads up and R onto 'Halfway House' terrace.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Start 3m L of 'Adam's Rib'. Marked "G".

Justifiably popular. Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchor shared with 'The Bolting Gestapo'.

Very good climbing, which makes you appreciate how average 'Killer Boas' really is. Superb friction.

Keeps going above the ledge up the little headwall. Good sustained climbing and steeper than it looks.

Another crowd favorite up big pumpy jugs. Best to stickclip 2nd bolt if you value your leg bones.

Starts around the arete from HOY. Short wall, trend R under small roof, then up flakes 2m R of arête, eventually trending left to the arête and finishing up HOY.

Stickclip the first bolt if needed. Rebolted 2005.

Hard and pumpy with a sting in the tail - classic Nowra.

Start: Starts off the pedestal 6m up L from the base of Zapt. You can belay on the ledge (where there's a belay ring), or on the ground which is probably less hassle. Either way, take it easy on the unprotected scramble up to the pedestal.

Rebolted 08-07-2006.

Start just left of Pluck-a-Duck. Bouldery start then wanders right and left. Finishes on the white bulge after the first roof. Varied and pumpy!

The face in the middle of the pillar, starting up Marooned before moving left.

Funky, cryptic stemming up the obvious open book corner.

Clip first bolt from the narrow ledge and pull onto the hard start. Pumpy pocketed face. Avoid traversing R for a giant rest on the jug of KB and add a grade and a star. A classic route but best avoided between Aug-Dec as the local falcon has a habit of greeting would-be ascentionists at very high speeds.

Really good sustained climbing that wanders around a bit to link a line above the overhung section. Start as for up Flash Flood (or Nice Day for a Disco), and then move left to the furthest line of ringbolts that traverses over lip of small cave, then climb up and right up the super headwall.

Slightly to the right of Barroom Brawl. Start on the pockets and pull up onto the slab. Follow the juggy flakes up into the roof & around the lip to anchors.

Climb left leaning flake/ramp, then head toward obvious arete. Finishes at anchors just left from the top of the arete.

10 pitch sport route (all rings or homemade stainless hangers, which some odd-ball fat nosed biners struggle with, but take bolt plates for the carrots instead incase, and for the anchor above pitch 3, and in case the belays get too crowded). Rap in as described above, then walk right past pinnacle at 40 m, hit base of cliff at 100m, drop down, then go up to cliff (near start of Big Nose). Walk round the base of buttress and drop down a bit, then go up and you can see a 8m pinnacle/flake leaning against the steep face. This is the start. About 350m walk. There is a much easier variant to the first 3 pitches by starting up Contented Cows, all rings at 17, 8 (12m), and 19.

There is a blue emergency bin below Pitch 5, with some water, food, clothing, torches, and basic shelter. Don't call 000 just because you are benighted, so the police don't have to go out at night to babysit you. Please arrange to replace anything you use.

1. 45m (22) Up and left to ledge, through overhang, further up and left, through roof, then back right to the belay.

2. 30m (20) Straight up the groove until easier climbing, then up and left to belay on ledge.

3. 40m (17) Up and slightly left to ledge, then pull through roof and up. Scramble to base of next short wall, belay off homemade hanger and carrot (TAKE HANGER FOR CARROT!). Old tree anchor seems to have either degraded, or was a poor choice to begin with.

4. 35m (10) Up short wall, then scramble up and left about 30m through vegetation to the base of the cliff corner and anchors (rescue drum here).

5. 30m (17) Up the right wall of corner and arete, then traverse left to the ledge. Carrot + RB Belay.

6. 50m (19) Up onto the wall then traverse right about 20m and up following rings to ledge and belay.

7. 30m (20) Thin move to start, up to roof and jugs, pull through and up to ledge.

8. 25m (18) Up wall, then jug haul through the bulges to the top. Belay anchors are back and right about 6m in a small cave.

9. Scramble up and left to the base of the choss cave, then right around the base about 20m to the start of the last pitch. (You can escape left and up gully from this ledge).

10. 20m (16) Straight up the wall to belay at anchors on top.

To exit, see notes above.

Popular and sequency. Start off right end of the boulder.

Far left end of the steep wall, just right of wide crack. Was originally graded 18 but a hold has broken so it's now crimpy desperation at 22. Rebolted 2019.

One of the few Werribee routes that deserves the star it was given in the printed guide.

Start 1m L of 'Barbara Streisand'.

Up to flake then straight up the middle of the face. Add points for style if you finish direct over the middle of the overlap, otherwise finish up Vulcan. Rebolted May 2023 Safer Cliffs Victoria

Step R to descend from Barbara's chains.

One of the best sport route of this grade in the Grampians. Brilliant, but unfortunately it seeps very heavily after rain.

Starts just left of black streak on far left end of the Pocketed Wall. Scramble up and place a sling thread for safety before the first bolt and belay from there or else directly from the bottom. Rebolted 2023 (with a couple of retrobolts added in the final section).

Start of the left hand end of the cave. Carrot to belay from. Climb finishes at first DRB. The second set of anchors is for the other routes.

2m R. Stickclip first bolt. Independent (and tricky) start up black wall. Once through, romp up to rest ledge. When ready, tackle the headwall.

Start at the first obvious cliff face at the rightmost (southern or Southbank) end of the main cliffs, behind the "Danger" sign. Marked "P".

Balancy and intense slab climbing. Climb R then L up vertical face past 2 RBs. Crimpy moves past 3rd RB lead to a jug and the halfway ledge. From ledge follow 3 RBs up thin slab to top. Large rings up over the lip provide anchors to rap or belay from. 6 RBs.

Burly start then cruisy

Location: The Wiggly Boulder.

Sit-start right of 'Shattering Dreams' matching a big undercling. Slap to the small edge, then mantle to finish. Harder than a lot of other 3's in the area.

Warmup route of the crag. Fun scoopy moves and a nice pump. Three RB's.

Start immediately R of Yellow Cake at the base of short flake and rooflet. Boulder around the R side of this and up the short crack before stepping L onto bulge. Straight up the face to the roof clipping from big undercling if roof. Over roof and up juggy flake to the top.

Start on arete 1m R of 'Exhilarant', 1m L of 'Gangbang Wall'.

Steep and balancy climbing, 'HWA' takes balance and commitment, while 'GBW' takes crimp strength and brawn. This route is great for climbers who lack the strength to crank through its neighbour, also fun for sandbagging musclebound tough-guys who have no technique.

Up arete clipping 1st 3 FHs shared with 'GBW'. Continue up arete above horizontal seam past further 3 FHs. Finish up easy slab to DBB shared with 'GBW' and 'Hanger Wall', optionally clipping 1 or 2 of the 'HW'[12212749] BRs.

Just down the hill below the main boulder of The Eastern Bloc. Start at the back of the cave, head out following the biggest jugs you can find to a mantle. Careful of the cracked footer on the left.

Start: Sit.

Mauricio Chino

Bouldery powerful start, then mantle to break, odd move through roof then up.

Great sustained moves up intermittent pods in the crack and directly through the small roof. Beware a slight runout at about 6m which doesn't leave much room for error.

Start: Start just R of the pillar/pedestal.

Very thin start then consistent climbing up and through cave area, second crux is committing. Enjoy!!!!

Sit start low on a crimp and input edge. Climb the central line up the technical slab to top out over its peak. A classic for the grade!

Start: 10m left of 'The Cathedral' Cave, up easy corner and step right into thin line. Continue straight up past some fantasic climbing to lower off. Rebolted 2006, 4 RB and Double RB Lower Off.

One of the best grade 22 sport routes in 'Victoria', even though the start is very close to being a retrobolt of CWT. Seeps heavily in the dead of winter, although the key holds can be dryer than they look. Rebolted and extended 2017

Start: Starts 3m right of 'Sting' Like A Bee on small ledge.

Up the crack finishing left. Quite a sting in its tail unless you're tall.

Popular, with a hard start that is either dynoed out right, or tackled via small holds on the left. Second half finishes up a short section of attractive rock on good holds.

A good warm up and introduction to Flinder's rock. The climbing is fun and there's jugs whenever you need them…clean the 4th draw after you climb past it.

Climb the technical slab with pockets straight up the right side of prow through steepening ground. Can you make the anchors without a respirator?

Start: Original problem on the lefthand side of the wall, starting with a sit-start.

'The Show Must Go On' is a harder version coming in from the bottom right.

Eponymous super classic left-to-right traverse under the roof and topping out boulder.

Start on crimps, then go left to the good pocket and up to the top.

Dan Adijans Jimmy

Beautiful sustained climbing up the arete and wall right of Snow Blind. The finish feels a bit bold, running out above small RPs, but there's solid gear below. Tricky undercling on the arete leads to lovely face moves up the seams.

Simply amazing finger locking up the line that bisects the blank wall L of Warlock. There are 2 very distinct cruxes on this thoroughly enjoyable and sustained outing. Easier moves up the final chimney to finish at the rap chain. A 60m rope will get you back down in style.

Nice sequence to start then easy climbing for the rest.

Start: little sequence that makes the climb

Starts on higher terrace just right of Dontworry.com. Slab past three bolts under roof. Monkey out and through on huge holds. Take the left side of the arête past a harder move, then slab headwall.

Use bolt plates for face (and optional gear in crack) then bulge well protected with ring bolts

Undercut start as for Flash Flood for a couple of bolts then slightly left and up the wall left of Stereo. A bit of a shutdown crux in the middle, that can be done slightly easier by climbing to the right of the bolts.

Swing up the steep juggy wall immediately left of Eternal Damnation's undercut arete past a big rattly block to a ledge. Step right and go up to the roof. Now make a cramped step back left past a bolt onto an undercut wall to reach the base of the crack. Straight up the crack.

The awesomely steep line is made easier by a few faceholds.

Start: The first steep line you get to on the L wall of KRGRF.

Up steep corner for 2 bolts, then follow the left line of bolts thru the open corner.

Stunning technical arete 2m left of GW. Bolts are spaced and can be supplemented with cams (#2 & #3 Camalot).

Big reaches to big holds. Funky pockets.

Start: 10m R of Aphelion, below first FH.

1. 45m (18) 15 FH's. This long and varied pitch features interesting black slab climbing before steepening into a lovely sculpted orange corner. Belay at rap station on R.

2. 30m (22) Nine FH's lead up some bulgy, wacky territory to exposed, blocky arête which bounds the R side of 'Celestial Wall'. Finish at rap station as for p3 of 'Aphelion'. Rap off here, or..

3. 10m (22) As for fourth pitch of 'Aphelion' onto 'Halfway House' ledge.

Descent: Abseil back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Right through opening bulge then left trending line up thin face to shared anchors with Aonang Aonang. Rebolted 2019.

The left trending finish to Dave Fern. A real pumper!

Climb the reachy boulder-problem off the deck just right of the Terrethea crackline via a big move to the dubious flat jug. Continue up to the 'shield' (which is living on borrowed time) - then onwards up the face.

Sit-start on sloping rail. Trend up and right using slopers and eventually jugs.

Funky 3D climbing on incredibly slippery rock. Was once grade 21! Rebolted 2019.

Probably 22 now that the boulder has rolled down the gully.

A long pitch of overhanging climbing, starting at the left end of the wave platform seperating tha Paradiso proper from the Aquaphobia Wall. Long reaches between incut holds characterise this line, which has been known to shed the odd piece of rock. Popular warmup for the harder routes, or a greatpitch to work in its own right. DBB.

Excellent wall climb that was originally led (boldly) on trad gear. Start in the 'green', 3m left of 'By Jovi', directly below orange jug and very large pocket.

Stick clip ring bolt, committing dyno to jug, save a little for move into the ladder.

Start: direct start to 'Ladder of Gloom'

Start on 2f pocket and rounded crimp then straight up over the sloping bulge. Rightmost climb before the corner.

Stay right of the good crimps out left.

Mauricio Chino

Start 5m R of GMS in cave. Hard start (left of the first bolt) and up to horizontal flake thingo. Clip a couple RB's in the roof, and then up the pumpy headwall.

Wall and obvious flake 5m R of gully. High first bolt, like all the routes on this platform. Bouldery at the bulge.

Sit start and finish on an obvious jug at the arete.

Simply amazing. A tough start leads to one of the most sustained and awesome climbs imaginable. Take some microcams for the start. The climb itself is a contender for the best route on the cliff, regardless of grade.

Start at corner 3m R of 'Surrender', just L of "NUT" mark (it's often confused with 'Nut').

Up corner past 3 RBs then layback the crux to attain ledge. More challenging moves past 2 RBs to finish at DBB.

Brilliant climbing up an amazing line. A thin and bouldery start leads to a searing corner of unsurpassed quality. Thin hand jams and finger locks lead exhaustingly to a ledge. From there, continue easily to the belay tree.

Done by Coral Bowman (US) in 1976, when it was 21, likely the first female ascent at this grade in AU.

Start in the wide crack right of 'High Noon' (or climb directly up the face) step L onto the face, interesting climbing past U bolts to DBB. E. Bradley, A. Williams, J Spong, 2004.

Start at the leftmost line of bolts on 'Owl Pillar'. Compulsory stickclip the 1st bolt due to the uneven ground and steep dropoff to the L. Pull up the overhanging start (crux) past the 1st FH then clip the 2nd FH. Continue up more easily clipping the top BR (shared with 'Afternoon Delight') on the way to the summit and rap chains. The bolts on this route are still the original carrots bolts so take care. No dogging please.

As usual, make sure of your gear when you're this close to the ground. The L crack on the pillar.

The obvious seam to steepness. A few different ways to do the crux, directly up the seam is the 22 version.

Fantastic pumpy climbing on some great rock and holds. Start off the ledge up and to the R of CIC at an RB. Follow the hangers up and L to join UF for the last 2 RBs and its fantastic finish.

Start at far right end of cliff under a patch of orange rock. Bad blood is the left line of bolts. Pitches can be linked easily using a single 70m rope for lower-off.

1. 25m (19) Hard move off the ground then up groove and juggy wall

2. 20m (22) Straight up steep Wall

Start 2m R of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "LPW".

Rebolted in 2019

Follow the L tending line of 5 RBs up nice wall and thin slab. Push through the great crux sequence, placing a #2 wire, and top out.

Right of 'Rhubarb Crumble'. Streno start

Start on the right, traverse across on good rails and head halfway across the lip via a cool pocket above the largest part of the lip.

An enjoyable short route with an interesting dyno on great rock. Pity it's so short, add a sit start to make this climb a little more worthwhile.

Has been rebolted and has new lower offs

Start up the wall before escaping left into the corner and following this to a steep conclusion.

Sit start on lowest jug (same as for 'l'Homme Obu'), then up left to juggy break then straight up.