Vías en Southern ACT

Climbs a rightwards-leaning fine-grained dyke.

1. 35m Crux. Up the dyke for 15m and step right onto the slab. Continue up and right to belay at an obvious crack.

2. 25m Continue up the crack and slab to a ledge.

Follow the hand-sized crackline 35m left of Touch and Go all the way.

The line and corner 15m left of Marillion.

On the western side of the largest boulder downhill on the main outcrop. An unprotected chimney is followed by a superb right leaning thin crack. Great varied climbing - fingerlocks, face and bridging with excellent protection (small wires and RPs)

About 100 metres right (east), on the same level as Waiting for a Miracle. On a large boulder is a flake-formed fist crack. Start in a cave and move right up a mossy ramp; climb the overhanging flake (crux) then traverse left and up another flake and crack. Move left to a tree belay.

About 200 metres downhill and slightly easy (towards the hut) is an immaculate crackline on a smooth wall. Pull up on flakes and layback up the wide crack which narrows to hands at the top. Take some larger cams.

The wide mossy corner in a niche 10 metres to the right of 'Welcome to the Party Pal'.

The obvious short corner crack on the boulder.

The ultra thin crack and arete three metres left of String Bikini. A couple of small RPs augment the bolt.

Stand start the slot and up the crack with generous jams.

Start just left of 'LHJ' with left undercling and right sidepull. Unassuming but good movement.

Stand start the right side of granular face and up easy terrain.

Stand start up the left side of granular face. Up through the featured dihedral.

Sit start at base of crack, follow to easy topout.

Sit start opposite end of 'Stick and Poke' crack.

Stand start by two foot platforms at ground height then up slab.

The classic of the cliff. Start six metres to the left of the fireplace. Sustained climbing up the fingertip crack which splits the otherwise featureless wall at the left-hand end of the outcrop.

A direct start to Pushing the Envelope; start at the fireplace five metres right of Desperate measures. Unpleasantly thin climbing up the friable slab past two bolts to join Desperate Measures.

Start four metres to the right of the fireplace. Up the poorly brushed slab to the right of the arete to the horizontal crack. Continue upwards as for pitch two of Desperate Measures.

Definitely not recommended. Start 10 metres right of the fireplace. Hard moves to start up the very thin flake, slap left, then walk up the mossy slab above.

Follows a line up the middle of blocks on the front buttress, about 15 metres right of the fireplace. Balance traverse right then easily up onto block. Step right and hardish moves up crack followed by easy laybacking and final traverse right under roof to belay.

Start three metres right and up from The Wanderer on a large ledge. Layback up flake (unprotected) then easily up crack stepping right under roof to belay.

Start on the higher part of the ledge about three metres to the right of Burning Yams below an incipient crack. Climb the crack (protection is desperate to place).

One of a kind. Awkward climbing in a superb position. Start three metres to the left of an obvious quartz dyke, below the right hand end of the roof which cuts the main wall. Take heaps of large camming devices or else!

1. 30 metres (15) Climb the dark slab to the right of the moss, step left across the moss to the obvious crack. Climb this to a hanging belay in the corner of the roof next to large guano.

2. 10 metres (20) Traverse left to hanging belay just to left of massive guano.

3. 35 metres (20) Continue to ledge on top of block to belay. Scramble down block for five metres to track.

A better first pitch to Skyrider. The wide crack to the right of the original.

Start about 50 metres to the right of Skyrider on the southern bluffs. Pleasant laybacking and hand jamming up the wandering crack which initially slants to the left and then goes straight up.

Definitely not worth the effort to find. Start 20 metres above the pine tree 30 metres left of the top of People With Chairs Up Their Noses. Climb the middle of the white slab.

Another worthless crack right of Dirt Roller.

Yet another worthless crack, on the second tier of the southern bluffs.

Part of 'Hospital Crag' to the south of Smiling Rock. Start at the northedn end of Hospital Crag, below a large ledge with a tree.

1. 5 metres (10) Climb the short off-width to the tree.

2. 25 metres (20) Layback and bridge up the thin leftwards leaning flake. Follow the weakness to the right and then finish up Ward 3B.

Part of 'Hospital Crag' to the south of Smiling Rock. From the belay on Scaffold Injuries, layback the corner crack on the right, then follow the crack system to the top, squeezing under a tree branch.

The only climb to date at Turret Rocks. The easy fist crack and groove on the southern side of the boulder.

Some great moves up the middle, but may have been fire affected.

To the right of Shadow Pass

Strange

More of a scramble, may have bramble

Sit start on matched on flat ledge. Up through the breaks then move left over the face on technical moves. Escape onto the slab and walk to the top.

Sit start matched in a flat undercling on the far left. Follow a some crimps left around the buldge to mantle. Scramble to the top.

Sit start and mantle flat platform underneath huge boulder. Crawl to the jugs and traverse left until the ledge to mantle again.

Sit start with left hand finger lock and right had very low in the crack.

Painful on the left hand pinky finger hence the name, bring lots of tape.

Stand start matched on high crimp. Low feet then jump to sloper, traverse right to topout.

Stand start then mantle on the back left of the boulder.

Stand start left end of the flake. Move right with small feet and topout over the groove.

Stand start and up the slabby section in the centre of the face.

Variant to Acclivity Activities. Get a run up and smear your way up the boulder without using hands.

Stand start on two edges. Move right then up via tiny footers.

Start 1m right of Spot Check on sidepulls.

maybe v9ish

Stand start the arete.

Sit start the arete.

Sit start by the big flake.

Stand start on good edges and small feet.

Follow up the map of Chile then to the right

Sit start with arms high on crimps. To slopers then top.

Sit start on flat ledge. To slot crimp and up.

Sit start on big jug. Deadpoint to top.

Sit start on rock with hands at the far right of break. Taking the path of least resistance; traverse left and topout as for '5cm mouse'

Sit start on big rails and up though a tricky mantle

Sit start on large edge and work your way up and left to the mantle.

Sit start the left side of boulder with right edge and low flake. Mantle then find your way up.

Stand start with crimp and low right. Head up through big flake. Started with the high heel

Sit start around the arret to the right of stiletto

Up the small ledges on the left side of the face

Up the small ledges on the right side of the face

To the left of the Creole boulder, chimney up through the middle of the next two blocks.

Juggy and possibly soft, but be careful of the fall potential. If you miss the starting ledge it could be a 7m drop into the hole. Great view, walk off the back.

Underneath the Thorondor Ledge

Up the middle face

Grab the Knob

Start 10 metres north of the trig station. Climb the short, obvious handcrack with a small roof. the first recorded climb on the gudge.

About 100 metres north of the trig is a prominent tor. Walk towards another obvious outcrop about 100 metres north of this again - as you approach, a large leaning boulder stands out on the left. On the north side of this boulder is a beautiful face featuring a big pocket. Climb the face to a unique bollard belay.

On the steep slab about 300 metres northwest of the trig station (i.e. across to the farthest boulders and down the hillside a little). At the righthand end of the slab, head up the wall, then slab to join up with the prominent flake. Strenuously up this then easily to the top.

Follows the leftward leaning ramp. At the end of the ramp traverse left for three metres then up the runout slab. (Grade 19 variant - straight up from the end of the ramp)

The line with a bulge halfway up, starting at the Fruit of the Loom ramp.

Start five metres right of Apples and Blackberries at the snow gum on a ledge in the descent gully. Climb up to the large white flake, delicately up this and the smooth slab above.

Superb positive climbing but poorly protected and very scary. Climb the water runnel fifteen metres right of Keep Moving, with a bolt halfway up.

The prominent thin dyke 20 metres left of Spiral. Start underneath the dyke below the ramp. Excellent climbing up a fine line with good protection at intervals.

Start as for Two Solitudes, traverse to the far right end of the ramp and up the obvious line.

Brilliant. Starts at the layback crack at the centre of this cliff, 30 metres right of Gorillas. Follow the line of weakness with a gentle, exposed slab to finish.

Start off a bushy ledge 15 metres right of Spiral and 10 metres up the large gully (best approached from the top of the gully). Climb the perfectly straight crackline.

1. 30 metres (20) Starts 70 metres right of Spiral. Up a lovely hand/finger crack till it peters out. Trend right and up the dyke through the overlap to a belay ledge.

2. 30 metres - Traverse 'easily' right and up.

The obvious corner at the right-hand end of the slabs. The first pitch required extensive landscaping.

1. 35 metres - Up the corner to a tree.

2. 30 metres - Diagonally left beneath the huge overlap and past a tree to belay in a cave.

3. 25 metres - Left and up to the top.

Good slab climbing up the white streak with two bolts just left of 'Grease is the Word'. Crux moves past the second bolt.

Start 15 metres left of 'Grease is the Word', just left of the bottom wall.

1. 45 metres (20) - Trend left and then straight up over breaks to a cleaned streak. Hard moves past a bolt and continue upwards to the huge overlap and belay.

2. 15 metres (23M0) - Step left and climb strenuously up the wildly overhanging line on the overlap. Pull through the spiders to the top.

A memorable experience. Clamber 10 metres up the ramp at the righthand end of the big overlap (left of 'Bumblies Picnic'). Belay on the ledge at the top.

1. 42 metres - Climb straight up through the overlap to a friend pocket 15 metres up. Trend up and right to a bolt at a smooth bulge (crux). Head up to the base of a little corner in the headwall (the next one up from 'Bumblies Picnic').

2. 8 metres - Climb the corner.

A directissima that wasn't to be. Start seven metres right of 'Harlequin's Carnival' at a short pinnacle.

1. 30 metres (20) - Up the pinnacle and over the bulge to gain the slab, before moving diagonally left up pockets and then back right to a short crack. Move through the overlap to belay five metres beneath the obvious overlap.

2. 45 metres - Move diagonally right to a short white corner, up this and back left until above the belay, then straight up to a large ledge. Move diagonally to a bushy ledge and poor belay.

3. 35 metres - Diagonally up and right to top.

An impressive line bisecting the main slab; it is well protected and not too difficult. Start 60 metres left of 'Grease is the Word' on a short overhanging orange wall with large flakes.

1. 10 metres - Up to the ledge, then walk left a few metres to a weakness.

2. 45 metres - Follow the weakness, slightly left at first then straight up and slightly right to a stance.

3. 45 metres - Up, tending right to a small recess. Continue to a large block and ledge, then straight up.

Another typically fine slab climb. Start about 20 metres left of 'Harlequin's Carnival', a few metres left of a short steep corner marking the end of the udnercut section of the slabs. Double ropes useful.

1. 25 metres - Crux. Pull up onto the ledge, then up the corner crack and slab above to the first overlap. Pull through this and move up to a second overlap. Step left and up then left to a good stance. Belay with the bolt above and with small wires and a bollard at the stance. Skyhooks were used for protection.

2. 48 metres - Step left then up the steep section to an overlap; through this and right to a second overlap. Move leftwards for some runners, then up, trending right to belay at some cracks directly below the Guardian Mega-Block.

3. 17 metres - Easily to the top.

An excellent climb which scared the first ascensionists silly. Start five metres right of 'lf Only...'.

1. 35 metres (21) - Up the slab and crack to where it steepens and make a scary move into a thin crack. Follow this until it blanks out, then move slightly left and up to a bolt. Crux moves past this, then move easily to a scoop and bolt belay.

2. 45 metres (20) Directly up the slab for eight metres to a break, then trend up and right to a shallow corner/flake. Up this for five metres then straight up before trending right to a ledge. Continue to a nut belay.

3. 20 metres - Straight up to the Guardian Mega-Block and up the crack to the top of this.

Yet another superb, direct line. About 15 metres right of 'Crying Rain' is a short, smooth slab bordered on its left by a thin, square cut corner. Start at the slab five metres right.

1. 40 metres - Straight up the slab to where it steepens and make a scary move into a thin crack. Follow this until it blanks out, then move slightly left and up to a bolt. Crux moves past this, then move easily to a scoop and bolt belay.

2. 50 metres - Straight up and over a small overlap to a bolt, left to a small flake and straight on up the slab to a broken ledge and belay. Originally climbed clipping an abseil rope.

3. 25 metres - Doddle on up.

The first ascent was done in the rain. Start 40 metres left of 'Harlequin's Carnival' at a thin crack in the slab which blanks out after 20 metres.

1. 35 metres - Up the crack, then left and up to a recess.

2. 50 metres - Right, then straight up the slab past a small bush. Continue up steeper rock to a block.

3. 30 metres - Up to and over the final overlap to the top.

A classic route up the left side of the main slab. Start at the V-shaped cleft 10 metres left of 'Crying Rain'.

1. 30 metres - Up the steepening cleft and onto a curving flake above the overhang. Delicately right, then up to a ramp and belay.

2. 45 metres - Straight up, keeping right of the white groove, to a block belay.

3. 35 metres - Up to and through the overlap and cruise to the top.

Start five metres left of the original first pitch. Climb up to a flake, then straight up the steep slab past a good pocket.

Fine climbing up the white slab bisecting the second pitches of 'Pamella' and 'Antiquity'. Straight up keeping left of the white groove on 'Antiquity'.

The start, 10 metres left of 'Antiquity', is marked.

1. 30 metres - Up for 10 metres, then left along an easy ramp until ablve to climb the slab above to a spacious ledge.

2. 40 metres - Up right to a small tree, then easily up the wall and right to a belay.

3. 35 metres - Up to a crack in the overlap and continue to the top.

The obvious direct start through the bulge.

Ascends the steep, broken area of rock in the middle of the cliff. Start 10 metres left and up from the first belay on 'Pamella'.

1. 30 metres - Up past an overhanging block to a leftwards diagonal crack. Climb this, then the slab above to a good ledge.

2. 30 metres - Left and up over two bulges in the slab and finish up a final wall.