Ascensiones en Jannali Reserve teniendo Beta

4x punts after jug. thecrag.com needs to add a punt tick type

https://youtube.com/shorts/a1UaGnMFhdk?si=Q5QtG5C237bjDPo5

Fun and technical. All you could ask for out of a V3.

Awesome possum!

crimpy ouch

Struggling on the v10 variant. This is super soft. V5-6?

Went second go today once I re-learnt the beta from trying it about a year ago

Working the second half, every attempt pulled on from the big horn. Finally linked it from there on the last attempt. Beta: same as last time, except once you have one hand on the jug past the sloper, get a really high right heel matching your right hand. Use that to match the jug, moving the left hand to the far left bit. Then rock up to the right using the heel and the next few sidepulls. From there you can wedge your hip in and fully recover. Remaining moves are easy, just scary to commit to (for me at least).

Wanted the toe catch beta but couldn't land it

Would love to come back with more people and pads to figure out this one

I think this one deserves 3 stars. Such nice climbing

2 stars is generous for this one

COOKED technical route. Pass

I can see this go in next sesssion 😤

Definitely handy being tall for this one

Little bit scary

Great line

Might have hurt some short peoples feelings with my beta

Was trying the toe hook. But I am too unco. Ended up jumping to the flat top of the flake

Thought this was easier than the V7. More straightforward

Softer than the right line. Fun.

Spend some time reading the route and making small links then put it together. There is a sequence.

Reduced number of moves at the top to gain the mantle.

Helps if you scope out the massive jug before setting off. Awkward start.

End-of-session flap

Very happy to end the year's climbing with a repeat of this classic.

Classic!!

2nd go flash, slipped off the top first go

Skin gave out just as i figured out the moves

Absolutely great climbing. A classic for me.

The move from the cave to the lip was my crux because of my reach - had to commit to cutting as even my deepest drop knee was not getting me there.

To be honest, the climb feels cooler because of it!

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cy-pxezv2zY/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Had a try as a sit start from the corner. Deadpoint to the break was ok, albeit very reachy. Got a foot up into the slot and launched for the top before crashing back down to earth. Noticed afterwards there is another decent slot under the little rooflet/block.which probably would have helped,although the top out still looks pretty heinous

Suggest V4, did as a sit-start off the undercling following the crimps straight up. There's a nice jug at the top just back a bit from the ledge which makes for a nice top-out

Excuses, excuses... A short session after a a lot of food at a party, but I got closer with every attempt. Awesome problem with fun moves on my anti-style.

I'm definitely not ready for V7 yet. The big first moves are very fun though.

Almost got the flash

Best V5 ever?

Missing hold makes sit start harder.

Post start hold break. left is crimp, right is slot. Haven't climbed for years but it definitely feels harder than v1. I am pretty heavy and the hold that is left feels solid.

Did it without the right Arete. Not sure if using it makes it any easier. Likely easier for tall people.

Hard for the short

First V7 =)

As we had a bit more time and skin was still ok, decided to have another go and managed to hold it all together, this time no dab's hehe

Enjoyed this climb and interesting to see how quick the start gets harder, first go felt fresh and easy, on the 4th onwards it was taxing on skin and getting harder and harder.

Felt good today, first try I was confident I had it, but ended up falling from the jug at the end. Also messed up the beta a lot, and was happy to hold as far as I did. Next 2 or 3 tries got a bit harder to hold the cut loose swing. Changed the beta for left foot first and managed to send it on 4th go with what some would call a dab, even though it only made it harder, so wasn't too worried about it.

Tried this one at the end of a short sesh, but decided to save skin and see if it recovers well for the weekend.

pleasant variation