Vías en North West

Ocean facing side of the first boulder the Mordor sector. Right hand hold and swing out left over the water to gain a solid left foot. Up through the scoop to the summit.

Low tide only. Stand start below the bulge on the ocean side of the first boulder. Up through the scoop as for First Breakfast.

Overhanging corner on the ocean side of Ruby Right boulder. Sit start in the bottom of the abyss, lay back up the corner while avoiding boulders below and behind.

Start as Torech Ungol but instead of heading left, bump you way up the arete and around the right hand side of the boulder. Rubbish landing so spotters may be handy.

Sit start same as tramp stamp, follow the crack left and up.

Sit start at the two pockets and up the face.

Up the arete to the right of Tramp Stamp.

Easy face right of V0.

Start with hands in the break, feet on the slopey overhang. Rock over, hug the block to the pinnacle. Don't fall.

Hang start with poor feet. Left hand in vertical slot and right hand on lowest pinch.

Sit start at the arete, up to the right.

Sit start and up the arete.

SDS.

SDS.

SDS.

SDS. Can be done in either direction

Contender for the best boulder at Doctors. Sit down start with arms wide on two side pulls. Big move to knobby hold and then nice flowing moves to good hold about half a metre from the lip. Committing moves to gain the lip and then slightly traverse right for the top out. Tidal dependent but an excellent problem.

Sit start on the right and follow the break right round the boulder to top out up the back.

SDS Up the right arete.

Start in the break and top out up the slab.

On the boulder behind to the left. Sit start with feet as low as possible, hands on each arete and straight up.

Stand start. Straight up the centre of the face.

Sit start on left down point. Straight up face.

Start low and left with right hand on a bad sloper in the roof. Move up and right, avoiding the jugs on the centre of the face, finish up the right side of the face.

Left line of bolts.

Centre line of bolts

Right line of bolts

On the great steep boulder just below the sport routes. Only climbable at low tide. Start matched on the big rail, up to the arete and top out. Nice moves on jugs the whole way.

On the great steep boulder just below the sport routes. Only climbable at low tide. Start low on small holds, heel hook and straight up through side pulls.

On the great steep boulder just below the sport routes. Only climbable at low tide. Start right hand on a side pull and left on perfect square sloper and go straight up.

Easy and enjoyable movement directly opposite Neuralgia.

Between Mordor and the main area in the middle of the boulder field there are some individual problems: Start on undercling then up left arête.

To get full value on this climb start in the hole at low tide. Being two boulders stacked on top of each other this feels more like bouldering. With that and the other boulders around you a fall while clipping at any point wouldn't be nice. Still some loose rock at the top.

So far this route has been climbed by staying left of the bolts at the start for some fun 3D climbing between the two boulders. Once towards the top of the left boulder, step right and go up the face, don't top out. It's a bit contrived but quite fun.

It's a shame this face doesn't have a nice flat landing as it would be a great boulder problem at the current height. Or if it was twice as long it would be great sport route. Head straight up past the bolts for a few very thin and quite technical moves.

A bit average, really only one move. Needs another bolt, falling while going for the anchor results in a hard hit into the slab at the bottom.

Sit start on the jug on the right of the arete. Climb the arete, staying mostly right and top out through the branches.

Straight up the center of the face.

Sit-start at the base of the triangular white wall. Up using crimpers on the face and left arête to reach a jug at the apex of the triangle. From here either head straight for some excitement or cut right to traverse off.

Sit start, right of FP

Start round the corner on the jugs, loop round the bottom of the boulder then an awkward move on to the slab which is climbed to the top. Final move a little trickier than you would like in that position.

Awesome highball arête. Follow the tufa feature up the arête using a small pocket on the face to gain the jugs just below the lip. Careful on the top-out.

Brilliant face climbing straight up the middle of highball face. A piker's variant can be done by exiting out left mid-height (V2).

Just west of the Emergency Medicine area there are two quality problems together in a small depression created by the jumbled boulders:

Start on the furthest left jug. Traverse the face avoiding reaching over the lip for jugs. Top-out up the headwall. Quite pumpy. With the tide coming in the water will slowly creep up the landing and this can create some added time pressure.

Sit down start on rock to the left of the boulder. Move up and right to match a side pull. Continue to traverse low on the boulder on out stretched moves to the arete and finish up on "Don't Be a Darius."

Highball, stand start.

Highball, Stand start

Stand start

Sit start variant

Sit start, up through the black scoop.

Standing start between two small boulders. Left hand in jug, jump to juggy rail, traverse right till the rail ends, up and over. Fun campus traverse or feet available.

Stand start at the left hand pocket. (Please Edit if proper name and FA are known.)

Start as low and right as possible and head left through the roof and up pocket problem.

Start right hand in undercling and left hand on rail, bump straight up.

Start on the ledge on the ocean side of the boulder and traverse around, back to the ledge.

These problems are on the beach side of OTG. Follow the flake up to the top.

Stand start with left undercling and right on a crimp. Couple of moves to the top.

Traverse either direction. From #1 all the way over to the tussocks and back.

40 m West of the lookout, under the light house, in low swell. 3 sets of u bolts above. Suitable for toproping, most routes trad protectable. Described left to right, grade depends on eliminates.

The left hand corner offwidth

Groove to left of first set of U bolt anchors

Straight up to u bolt anchors

Line left of middle anchors

Line straight up to middle anchors

Line to left of right ward anchors up groove

Straight up to rightward anchors

Ramp to right of rightward anchors

West of the lookout, and past a small inlet, facing west. Can be approached walking down from lighthouse past a memorial. There are 2 sets of u bolts on top of this boulder, and a table like boulder at its base.

Ocean facing groove, left of left arete

Middle of face on wall facing “the table”. Eliminate the big hold for more challenge

Finger crack

The face between the 2 aretes, use both or eliminate one. About grade 21

Easy hand crack on orange topped boulder

To the right of the fractured small corner, then up next tier to lookout

Starting in the chasm, straight up the crack.

Start in Chasm, Straight up the crimps on the face to slab.

Sit start laybacking the left juggy sidepull. climb up and top out above where you started.

Climb up the easiest part of the boulder.

Sit Start on juggy rails and move up through crimps and topout

Stand start on jug and move up the wall through jugs and topout.

Start the same as Odd Submarine then traverse to the right staying low through the funky crux in between Spooky Submarine and Super Submarine. Finish up Easy Submarine.

Start on slopey feet above base of wall, between the two columns. Move up via sidepulls culminating in a heroic throw for the slot. Big move to fantastic jugs to finish.

Start on slopey feet above base of wall, between the two columns. Move up via sidepulls culminating in a heroic throw for the slot. Big move to fantastic jugs to finish.

Start on slopey feet above base of wall, between the two columns. Move up via sidepulls culminating in a heroic throw for the slot. Big move to fantastic jugs to finish.

Stand start with left hand on side pull crimp and right hand on slopey crimp. climb up through sidepulls and crimps and topout. Avoid using juggs to the far right.

Stand start on good feet and climb up the cool jugs and topout.

Start standing on ledge. climb up on jugs to the next ledge where you ca reach the top to topout.

Climb detached pillar using thin cracks either side. The top 2/3 of the block is detached lots of movement when pulled outwards when topping out

A great fun climb on jugs for beginners. stand start to the right of the arete on platform. climb up and to the left to the arete and finish up the arete.