Vías en South East para grado seleccionado

Slab

Short steep little climb, follow the cliff line around left past Le grand pere wall and COVID cliffs to reach this route.

A short route to the right of Ataraxia, barely worth climbing

Rap off the rings as for the Totem pole, jump in and swim right to an easy ledge just behind the Totem pole.

1. 30m Up chimney / crack

2. 30m More chimney / crack, ending on a good ledge with 2 rings to tyrolean back to the mainland roughly level with the top of the tote.

3. 30m through chimney past big chockstone (on descent it's easy to get your rope stuck on this), then up through looser rock into the sunshine to a rusty anchor.

4. 20m Up sunny face veering a little left at the top to another rusty anchor then scramble to the real summit.

This is the chossiest route to the summit of the candlestick. Although it's the easiest, expect very poor rock and gear the whole way (last pitch excepted)

Obvious crack line climbers far left on the ramp, slopey ledge belay (10m), 20m up classy corner to topout.

Nice climbing up the box groove, with a convenient tree to rap-off at the top.

the exit route from the Moai platform

A two pitch escape route to get you back up the rap route. Grade 12, 16

Continually interesting climbing up the eye-catching line to the lower-off. The leaning block is keyed-in but take care. A BD#4 for the top is useful.

Please don't. Fun bridging and face climbing up the featured open corner and crack-line, stepping left to lower-off at the top. Take care as the rock is a little friable.

Up the flakes and crack line with good gear to the final roof, then finish straight-up the headwall. Lower-off.

Good climbing up the corner just right of Salt Flakes. Gear is adequate, but requires thought and is tricky to place at the crux. Step left to lower-off.

Follow the diagonal ledge line up and right, finishing directly above Up.

The obvious line up the main wall. Start on the jug rails and climbing the corner to the top. Can also be used as a down climb.

Easy up from a standing start, sit start will go at a harder grade. Down climb here to get off the boulder.

Stand start on underclings and head straight up and over the prow. Sit start is a v2

Great easy problem, nice moves on excellent holds. Straight up the corner.

Very thin moves up and over, harder if you're short. Will earn a star once it's been cleaned!

Sit start with hands on rail and head up over slightly overhanging mantle. Pretty pointless but why not...

Clean bulging corner, just north of the point.

Long corner line next to Shells of Rheban. Climbs past a dagger-shaped flake on the second pitch.

The chimney L of Rain of Terror/Jihad to the top of the Wedding Cake.

The last technical pitch to lead on your way back from doing Pole Dancer etc. Nice short handcrack down low then the highlight is the 3D chimneying into the bowels of the earth.

The left side of the pocketed wall, with a tricky finger crack up high.

Climb the easier angled arête immediately to the R of 'Lost Souls'. Start in the diagonal crack about 1m to its right, on less than perfect rock. H.Jackson, May 94.

Takes the left diagonal crack leading out from the corner on the south-facing part of cliff (first part reached when walking along the shore). Rap down the corner to access.

Dont fall on the top out! SDS in obvious corner crack.

SDS to left of crack, start inside horizontal crack and straight up.

SDS on good flake and up crack.

Start with hands on ledge and tricky feet. Mantle onto ledge and head over the top.

Straight up and over the corner block.

On the first band of rock on your right when you come from the parking lot. Straight up the middle using the white rock and the high pocket. Don't use the easier jugs on the left!

Sit start with fingers in the bottom of the three obvious pockets, head stragith up using only the three pockets. Yeah the routes here are fairly contrived ;-)

These routes are on a large pocketed boulder below the main band on the right. Traverse the middle of the boulder from left to right without using the top holds.

Sit start under the small overhang and move up and out to the left.

Rising left traverse up wide diagonal slash.

The crack at the left end of the wall

nice hand crack with tricky move on loose-ish rock

A top rope climb if you have no time for long hikes etc. Use a tree at the top of the climb to set up an anchor. Sandy...

Gotta start somewhere...

Left arete from good juggy hold to easy top out

This problem is on the face on the back wall just to the right of a roof. Right side of face.

This problem is on the face on the back wall just to the right of a roof. Left side of face.

Start as for Sorted but straight up. There are a couple of variations on this.

Go upward from part way along the rail.

Up to the left of the overhang

slab to left of stump

Start at flat hold 1m right of arete.

The crack through the bulge stepping left to DBB lower-off. Takes a range of wires and small / medium cams. Be careful of loose rock (needs more cleaning).

The right arete, made easy by holds on the right face.

Around left from steep face.

Sit start on the arete, head left and up. Not as bad as it looks.

Flake in middle of face.

Slab on far left of boulder.

SDS

Start left of the arete, move right.

Short arete on left end of slab.

Right side of slab.

Highball - the juggy arete on the left hand end of the cliff line.

Up the horizontal slopes from a sit start.