Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Ten Fathom Ridge | |||||
21 | ★ Pink Phantom
Fun little sport line on cool edges starting next to the tree (no bridging!) up gently overhanging wall, trending left at the top to the DBB PA: T-Bone & Luke Batchelor, 28 Nov 2021 | 10m, 4 | |||
13 | Wombat
Crack just L of Cut Loose Possum to L tree. | 10m | |||
19 | Cut Loose Possum
30m L of Obelix. Under overhang to FH. R along break to lip. Slab to R tree. | 12m, 1 | |||
19 | Obelix
Wide roof crack down the far left end | 10m | |||
22 | Asterix
| 15m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Stillpoint
Corner crack 4m right of Obelix to weakness. R along diagonal to belay on the arete. | 20m | |||
20 | ★★ Stillpoint Variant
1st diagonal then arete. | ||||
20 | ★ Tony Montana
Approached from above via the Stillpoint walk off. Wall to the R. Through bulge. Diagonally R from 2nd FH to overlap at the black streak.R along break under overlap to arete. | 12m, 2 | |||
21 | ★ Evilution
Kachoong of the Cathedrals. Scramble down R from the start of Tony Montana to set up a belay under the flake through the roof. Overlaps past FH to flake. Out this past another FH and up headwall above. | 15m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Balcony Dweller
Arete just L of Moon Ra. | 24m | |||
14 | ★ Moon Ra
Corner on the left edge of the main wall starting from the Lunchtime ledge | 24m | |||
20 | ★ Naked Ape
Takes a high traverse line across the main wall finishing up the last few metres of Two Way Stretchfrom part way up Moon Ra. | 30m, 1 | |||
26 | Surface Tension
Thin line up the L side of the main wall. Wires needed for the start and finish. 4 FH. Beware possibility of flipping upside down at the 2nd FH. | 24m, 4 | |||
24 | ★★ Old Men and Overcoats
Starts part way along the Moorglade. Up through overlap past FH to PR. Step L then up with difficulty past another FH. | 24m, 2 | |||
22 | ★ Two-way Stretch
Classic wall. Old Men and Overcoats till the PR. Traverse R to arete rest. Up and L to BR. stetch up. | 28m, 2 | |||
16 | The Moorglade
| 26m, 2 | |||
14 | ★★ Scales
Short corner starting 1m R of The Moorglade 1st belay. Abseil in or down climb corner. | 8m | |||
19 | Serious Shit On The Sharp End
Corner then face just R of Scales. Small wires recommended. | 8m | |||
19 | Soggy Snaggle
Direct start to Scales starting from the ground. Starts just L of Total Commitment into Scales. | 18m | |||
18 | ★ Total Commitment
Start below large roof with obvious flake.
| 30m, 2 | |||
15 | Statistical Data
Arete 2m R of Mint Bush and Overhangs to shallow corner on the R and up. | 17m | |||
20 | Mint Bush And Overhangs
Starts 20m R of Total Commitment. Break lower left end stepped overhang. BR protects a hard move onto slab. Up and L. | 20m, 1 | |||
16 | Omo White
Crack through roof 2m R Mint Bush and Overhangs. Crack above. | 17m | |||
17 | Ranyart
Major sloping corner. R along intermittent crack at roof, overhang past jammed blocks | 21m | |||
13 | ★ Methuselah
Starts below left end of high roof. Up and L. Straight up past traverse line via crack veering rightwards to arete. | 25m | |||
15 | ★ Olias
Starts below low roof with 3 cracks just L of Quoquaq. Through roof and up crack above. | 25m | |||
10 | ★ Quoquaq
Corner 30m L of Green Thumb. | 24m | |||
10 | Quoquaq Variant
Part way up the corner, R along obvious line to V cleft. Up via this. | 35m | |||
19 | Con-job Revisited
Narrow wall base Quoquaq corner. Up to and along 1st diagonal to on the R. Arete above via step L at overhang to stance.Diagonally up L to overlaps middle of the wall. Vague flake at light / black rock to Quoquaq Variant finishing up this. | 18m | |||
19 | ★★ Green Thumb
Below 1st good roof from the saddle. Up to ledge below the roof. To roof, R to crack. Finish up this. | 20m | |||
Neds Peak | |||||
12 | Entangled
They must have meant 'face that obviously needs sweeping'. Stumble and bash your way around the bottom end of the cliff line and walk south a bit. On the slabs facing the valley is a supposed óbvious clean sweeping face', R of a gully. Directly up the slab past an overlap to the top. PA: Glenn Tempest, Wendy Shelton & Barry Edwards, 1997 | 50m | |||
16 | Robin At The Roadhouse
A tiered corner system about 10m L of D. Up the corners to move R near the top., then up. PA: Glenn Tempest | 20m | |||
16 | Denethor
A few metres L of Windemere. Follow the weakness diagonally L to the major diagonal. Right along this for 4m then up the short corner. PA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham | 25m | |||
14 | Windmere
Looks good. The steep orange wall L of the Drifter. Up the wall, over the bulge heading L, then up the crack above the horizontal break. PA: Rod Young & Glenn Tempest, 1976 | 25m | |||
17 | The Drifter
Walk down 60m or so from the Free Standing area to the next compact orange wall. The first crack corner with guano. Up easily to the diagonal break. Exciting climbing across this to the arete. PA: Jeremy boreham, Rod Young & Glenn Tempest, 1976 | 25m | |||
13 | Political Apathy
The location of the this route is a bit of a guess. The dead gum probably fell down years ago and there are no conifers on the range, except in the plantation. It may be on the scrappy grey rock just before Windemere Wall. Halkway down the cliffline from Free Standing is a dead gum tree, 7m from the bottom on a ledge. A small conifer grows above this on the top of the cliff. (There is a dead gum 7m out from the bootom of the cliff) To the R is a smooth grey wall and corner. Jam up the crack and through the overhangs to the top. PA: Mark Walters & Dan Van Ulzen, 1980 | 27m | |||
14 | ★ Flight of the bumbly
well worthwhile and easier than it looks. The orange face down L of HL leads to a niche which is exited on the L. R up the slab to finish L up the obvious line. PA: Julian Deverey & Martin Lama, 1994 | 25m | |||
16 | Hang Loose
The name says it all. Start downhill from HSD beneath the obvious roof capping the corner.
PA: Richard Smith & Eric Jones, 1982 | 30m, 2 | |||
21 | Holy Snapping Duckshit
Steep! Climb the fragile wall to the L of CLO to clip the bolt, then strenuously up to the flake. Sustained climbing up the flaketo the welcome ledge. PA: Jason Scott & Richard Smith, 1986 | 38m, 1 | |||
24 | ★★ Canard A L'Orange
Starts left of the cave/overhang of Free Standing. Stick clip first BR. Optional #4 Rock to protect last moves to chain. PA: Martin Lama, 1994 | 14m, 5 | |||
20 | ★★ Free Standing
A strenuous and classic test piece on great rock. Add a few grades if youve been weened in gyms. The overhanging line up the leering block above the wide line. From the ledge, jam the crack and pull over into the belay dish. Take some biig cams or hexes. PA: Glenn tempest, 1977 | 32m | |||
22 | ★ Down and Out
Exciting. Climb FS until over the lip and just short of the belay. Step R and cruise to the arete then pull through to the top. PA: Glenn Tempest, 1982 | 40m | |||
17 | Fast Gun
The L hand two lines on the next chunky section of cliff, 40m R of FS. Can be done as one pitch.
PA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977 | 25m, 2 | |||
10 | Antwerp
Just R of FG. Up easily then the short wide crack, continue to the overhang/diagonal, traverse R and belay. PA: Jeremy Boreham, Rod Young, Priscilla Boreham & Gary Willis, 1977 | 27m | |||
16 | View To The South
Starts from the ledge, just R of the arete. Climb the wall, following a crack line ontothe diagonal ledges. Traverse off R to finish. PA: Russell Crow & Martin Hendy, 1983 | 30m | |||
16 | Deep And Meaningful
Take the R arete of Antwerp.
PA: Geoff Butcher, Steven Butcher, Lisa Basler & Richard Smith, 1986 | 30m, 2 | |||
20 | Cruising
The orange corner with the overlap at 10m at the uphill end of the cliff. Up the corner to move L at the overhang. A wire allows you to clip the bolt. Use bucket to gain the line and wall above. PA: Glenn Tempest, Geoff Butcher & Richard Smith, 1986 | 30m, 1 | |||
19 | Cruising Variant Finish
From the top of C go straight up the grey wall. PA: Glen Tempest & Richard Smith, 1986 | 8m, 1 | |||
20 | No Requiem for Architects
Good climbing up the tiered orange wall uphill from Cruising. Up and over the dangerous loose block and overlaps to fine crack in the roof. Clip the bolt and up to the top. PA: Glenn Tempest, Geoff Butcher & Richard Smith, 1986 | 25m | |||
Sunset Strip Iggie Blocks | |||||
8 | Iggie Pop
The middle crack splitting the blocks PA: Geoff Butcher & Graham Hoxley, 1988 | 5m | |||
16 | Short, Cute and Stupid
The R crack with a bulge. PA: Geoff Butcher solo, 1988 | 5m | |||
16 | Iggie Jaffles
The face 1m L of SCS PA: Geoff Butcher, Gary Schmidtt, Matilda Schmidtt & Richard Smith, 1988 | 5m | |||
Sunset Strip First Tier | |||||
12 | Dumpster diver
Mantel to the ledge and up the crack on the L side of the first little wall PA: Geoff Butcher & Graeme Hoxley, 1988 | 10m | |||
19 | Dont Faff Around
The first short overhanging corner. Awkward moves to the ledge formed by the nose like protrusion. Clip the BR and get your ass over the bulge. PA: Geoff Butcher & Graeme Huxley, 1988 | 10m, 1 | |||
15 | ★ Before the Rain
Diagonally R up the face 1m R of DFA. Now climb the steep crack through the second roof. PA: Geoff butcher & Graeme Hoxley, 1988 | 17m | |||
18 | Before the Rain Variant Start
Up to the distinctive protruding rib and block R of BTR and onto the ledge. Finish as for BTR PA: Geoff Butcher, 1988 | 18m | |||
21 | Old Peculiar
The name refers to a wonderful beer made in Yorkshire, it should be spelt. Peculier. Strangely Tough. Climb good edges to cracks in the roof 5m R of BTR. Continue up The Finish or step R to finish up FSAFL. PA: Glenn Tempest & Richard smith, 1988 | 18m | |||
20 | ★ Face Shots and Finger Locks
A classic and popular overhang. Obvious stepeed break 2 m R of OP.A couple of difficult moves brings the piton within reach. Jugs then the final pull onto the ledge. Finish up the blunt arete and watch the loose blocks. PA: Geoff Butcher, 1988 | 18m | |||
21 | The Finish
Short, commiting and quite loose. The thin line up the final wall 2m L of the finishing arete of FSAFL (directly above OP) PA: Edwin young & Glenn Tempest, 2001 | 10m | |||
22 | Get Ready, Set, Suffer
Technical. Up face to next break in overhang 2m R of FSAFL. Up L past BR to crack in lip. Up to ledge. PA: Geoff Butcher & Richard Smith, 1988 | 18m, 1 | |||
23 | Slapper Around
Fun - better than it looks. 'Fridge door' the hard looking roof crack and block on the extreme R of the lower tier, 2m R of GRSS. PA: 1988 | 10m | |||
13 | Bed Sitter
Up to L leading lines just R of SA, then to the top of arete. PA: Geoff Butcher, 1988 | 10m | |||
Sunset Strip Main Tier | |||||
18 | ★ Devils Pastry Cook
The dog leg line 10 R of the vegetated gully. Up to and past the BR. Continue up easier crack above, which soon becomes slabby. Best to continue up easier ground to belay off the tree. PA: Geoff Butcher, 1988 | 13m, 1 | |||
17 | Slip Slop Splat
Up line 2m R or DPC past a BR and up the blunt arete. PA: Geoff Butcher & Graeme Hoxley, 1988 | 12m, 1 | |||
14 | Burnt Retina
Not Bad. Block section 1m R of SSS to wall. The original went straight up but the best climbing is up the arete to the L. PA: Geoff Butcher & Graeme Hoxley, 1988 | 14m | |||
18 | Stacking the Deck
Scary finish. Up to the big ledge from the corner of BR. Traverse R to join LCICM and go up to the final overhanging wall. Traverse L on 'playing cards' past a bolt to shelf. Up the slab. PA: Geoff Butcher & Glenn Tempest, 1988 | 16m, 1 | |||
21 | ★ Lanky Cop in Club Med
An excellent pitch with a fiery finish. Up to bolt in the L end of lower overhanging wall (3m R of the big stringy bark) Up the arete to a stance below the black wall. Bolt Pull through to the ledge and Bolt Belay. PA: Geoff Butcher & Stephen Hamilton, 1988 | 20m, 2 | |||
21 | Cut the Crap
A strenuous variant to LCICM. At the crux wall of LCICM step R and up the leering wall. PA: Glenn Tempest & Geoff Butcher, 1988 | 20m, 2 | |||
25 | En Force
Solves the middle of the lower tier (6m R of LCICM). There are 3 BRS (2 of which are right next to each other). Finishes at a DBB lower off on the halfway ledge. PA: Martin Lama, 1990 | 10m, 3 | |||
21 | The Tax Man
More fun than doing you Tax.
PA: Glenn Tempest, Geoff Butcher & Stephen Hamilton, 1988 | 20m, 2, 2 | |||
22 | Entrance Exam
The R end of the lower overhanging tier, 4m R of EF, has a single FH bolt. Finisihes accross L at the lower off anchors on the halfway terrace/ledge. PA: Glenn Tempest, 1989 | 25m, 1 | |||
22 | The Gab Goes Off
Named after Geoff rapped off his rope. Up EE then up the first moves of GOTG. Move L to exit near the top of the TM. PA: Geoff Butcher & Dave Mudie, 1989 | 20m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★ Gift of the Gab
A classic test piece.
PA: Geoff Butcher & Glenn Tempest, 1988 | 23m, 2, 3 | |||
21 | ★ Wildberg Trendset
A key hold has been broken from this exposed climb. Up ES until level with the 2nd overhang. Step L into space, past a bolt, and up the bottomless corner, bolt PA: Richard Smith, 1988 | 25m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ Ego Superannuation
Enjoyably sustained. Obvious Corner splitting the R side of the lower overhangs. At the overlap step L and up the arete to the 2nd overhang. Step back R to the main line. Step L to finish. PA: Geoff Butcher, 1988 | 25m | |||
12 | Always the Sun
The slabby arete at the R end of the cliff. PA: Graeme Hoxley & Geoff Butcher, 1988 | 18m | |||
Sunset Strip Surveyor Point | |||||
21 | ★ Plug it and Tug it
Easy climbing (grade 10) to daunting 4m overhang, start left and pull direct for grade 21 or bail out left for grade 10. PAL: Michael Lehmann & leigh Redding, 31 Jul 2019 | 25m | |||
South Jawbones | |||||
11 | ★ The Blue Skirt Waltz
Climbs the right arete of the first part of the cliff encountered on the walk in. Scramble up to ledge below a prominent nose. 1 20m Corner, undercling right on overlap to tree belay. 2 25m Right and up lovely finger crack till it ends at arete. 3 15m Layback arete then up headwall. PA: Neil Barr & Julie Flynn, 1993 | 60m, 3 | |||
11 | Scrabble | 12m | |||
17 | ★ Saknussum | 75m | |||
15 | Fratz | 40m | |||
16 | Splatter Cat | 45m | |||
5 | Possum Run | 100m | |||
14 | Uncle Sam's Slab | 100m | |||
17 | Pulp Friction
Start at the cracks 6m L of Sheath and just R of the obvious chunky tree growing 6m up on the slab. First belay has 2 FH (could do with some maillons), second belay has chains, trad at the top. | 110m, 3, 2 | |||
13 | Sheath | 84m | |||
15 | ★★ The edge of reality | 100m | |||
13 | ★★ Skittle Edge | 96m | |||
18 | ★ Jitterbug
A delicious dance through a succession of thoughtful sequences that require delicate footwork to reach a series of undercuts. The start requires a large step to the right beneath an undercut with the line staying left of small bushes/gully. A belay ledge is available after 40 metres and a set of small cams will assist protection. Starts on The Terrace about 8 metres right (facing cliff) of Do Not Resuscitate Ever. PA: Hywel Rowlands, Melissa Field, James McIntosh & Glen Donahue, 6 Sep 2015 | 55m | |||
15 | Wham Bam Thankyou M'am | 110m | |||
12 | Lemacon | 27m | |||
15 | The Rum Jam Big Slam Crack | 42m | |||
13 | The Last Fandango | 45m | |||
16 | The Spirit Molecule | 25m, 3 | |||
Blue Haze Peak | |||||
14 | ★ So You Think I'm Gay | 51m | |||
18 | ★★ Passion, Boots and Brusies
PA: Mike Bukraba & Tyrone Andrew, 2010 | 55m, 3 | |||
17 | ★ Buxton Burglar
Bolt mentioned in 'Rockclimbs around Melbourne' is missing. | 55m | |||
11 | ★ Territorial Pissings
PA: Tyrone Andrew & Mike Bukraba, 2007 | 55m | |||
14 | ★★ Crack Pipe | 48m | |||
16 | ★★ False Teeth | 48m, 4 |