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Vías en Castle Hill para grado seleccionado

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Mostrando los 43 vías.

Grado Vía Estilo de equipamiento Popularidad
New Zealand Buttress
19 Okie Kenokie

Apparently better than it looks. Marked 'O', this route starts ~4m right of S and 3m L of GIT. A bouldery start with a thin, rusty bolt, then up the natural line of flared pockets up a seam passing another non-essential bolt enroute to the top. Take big cams.

Clásica mixta 18m, 2
19 Good In Tension

Starts at the L hand side of the wall with the arch, at the big trail arrow painted on the rock, 3m R of O. Watch out for a loose hold at the 2nd bolt. Up jugs to below overhung scoop then up through scoop (don't pike-off left onto slab!) and directly up to mantle sloping ledge. Step R, up face, and over little block to good holds. Jug-haul runout up face and then up L to small ledge and double rings. Save your rope and rap off the rings rather than lower. 5 FHs.

PA: Lee Skidmore, 1998

Deportiva 20m, 5
Pyramid Pinnacle
19 Heiroglyphics

Starts 5m R of TEOR, around the next side of the pinnacle. Clip the 1st FH and climb onto the face before heading L around the arete and up the vertical face, avoiding any of the large cheat stones for your feet (FH). Up, clipping the 3rd FH off a LH mono before reaching for the arete. Continue up the arete (2 FHs) before traversing (crux) around the bulge clipping the tricky 5th FH. Now up the overhanging wall on jugs to the chains.

PA: Nathan Bolton, 1999

Deportiva 11m, 5
Eastern Bluff Goldmine
19 Coffee and confessions VS

Start up "Thrutch Sity" and traverse R at the flake and into "Coffee and confessions".

PAL: Luen Warneke, 4 Nov 2020

Clásica 14m
19 Coffee and confessions

A delicate start, to short slab before, crack at top.

PA: Luen Warneke, 9 Abr 2020

PAL: Luen Warneke, 12 Abr 2020

Clásica mixta 12m, 2
19 Vision
1 18 20m
2 16 20m
3 19 30m

A 'Castle Hill' classic. A great climb to do in the afternoon. The route was rebolted in late 1998 and again in 2017 to make it completely safe. Simply great climbing with excellent positions up the top.

Start: Starts a few metres down R of TS. If you can't find TS, walk past the bouldering wall, keeping an eye out for a wide chimney (landmark) up through the grass on your L. Continue past this for a few metres, keeping on the track until you hit the (overall) third railing on the track. Once here, punch up the hill through the grass for 10m (no track) to the base of the blunt arête of the large, slightly detached block that is the start of the climb. You'll know you're on track if you see a series of big, silver 90 degree FHs quite close together up the face.

  1. 20m (18) A tricky lead with some insecure moves. Easily to clip the first FH. Cruxy moves through to third FH. More FHs until you reach the crack where the climb eases. Chain belay behind the tree. 'Escape' off L (chains) is possible here, but keep climbing because the next pitches are better.

  2. 20m (16) From the DBB behind the tree, step up onto the cheat stone and L onto the thin face past first FH. Nice moves past some thin stuff with odd thank-you-God jug will lead you past FHs to the massive, exposed slab with fantastic views, easy moves. More FHs up the slab until the ledge and DBB. A great pitch. You can scramble off L here if needed.

  3. 30m (19) Step R using the slightly loose block to clip the first FH above the belay. Now instead of traversing R for the Vision Original Finish, continue straight up through the crux at midway following the bolts to the DBB.

You'll need 12 quickdraws + something for the DBB the anchor.

Speed Record

The current speed ascent record is held by Jarrah Brand-Adams & Christopher Glastonbury with a time of 7 minutes 15 seconds.

Glen Hayford & Sam Lavender 17:54.

18-12-19 Jarrah Brand-Adams & Christopher Glastonbury 10:45.

22-12-19 J B-A & CG 8:06.

22-12-19 J B-A & CG 7:15.

PAL: Stuart Davies, Jason Blake & John Blake, 1993

Deportiva 70m, 3, 12
19 Vision Original Finish

From Vision P2 DBB, clip the first FH of Vision and traverse R and up to clip the second FH - clean the first FH. Keep traversing R to clip the third FH - some climbers choose to now traverse back and clean the first FH to reduce rope drag. Head up to the fourth using a long sling and unclip from third bolt. Continue up and R past FHs to the corner. Sustained moves up the pocketed corner to the top. Use Vision anchors.

The Vision Direct Finish is a far more popular route these days due to the elimination of the traverse and rope drag.

The old DRB, along with the chains, can be found 4m back from the edge.

PAL: John Blake, Jason Blake & Stuart Davies, 1993

Deportiva 35m, 14
Eastern Bluff Hardman Wall
19 Transmogrifier
1 19 45m
2 17 30m
3 16 40m

Starting immediately R of Toy Wall and about 25m right of Vision is the incredibly obvious 100m high, super-sustained 'Hardman Wall'.

  1. 45m (19 crux) Starts 2m R of COA, R of the tree at the far L of the Hardman Wall. You'll need 5 hangers and 14 draws for this pitch in addition to gear for the bolted belay stations. Bridge up using the tree, then move R into the groove with optional cam slot (creates rope drag). Continue following line of bolts tending R up slab and steep headwall to chains.

  2. 30m (17) From chains traverse up and right 7m to first FH, hard moves past next two FHs to thin crack. Follow this to chains on hollow ledge.

  3. 40m (16) Obvious crack up steep wall till it trends R. Follow this on natural gear to join up with SAS for the last few BRs. Climbs the wall L of the major groove L of the Saint. DBB (need hangers).

PA: Joe Kippax & Scott Bewley, 1998

Clásica mixta 120m, 3, 5
Eastern Bluff Treasure Gully
19 Corner Route

Starts on the L wall of the major gully about halfway up, about 30m right of the Aid Route. It's the most obvious line on the wall; it's also slightly vegetated. Take some big gear and a helmet for the seconder - there are a few potentially loose death blocks up high.

17-20 60m Follow the large flake up which trends right and then back slightly left to a large ledge with a fig tree on the far side. From here, you can rap off the fig tree (if you have a long enough rope), or belay from natural pro and fig tree and then continue up pitch two and scramble off, or just do it in one full length and top belay from FHs at the top. From the fig tree, step R and up potentially loose blocks to an easy scramble to the Summit Track.

Clásica 70m
Western Bluff
17 - 21 Beyond

Under the far, far R-hand side of the main roof. Look up to locate the crack-corner (obvious line). Starts below and R of this. Easy slab up to the corner. The 5m corner would be the crux, on bomber med-large hexes and cams. Set of FH's at the end.

Clásica 25m
West End Quarry
19 Toby's Mum

A TR route off Basalt Assault's chains (use quickdraws on chain to reduce wear). Start 4m L of Basalt Assault with a layback hanging L from the granite xenolith. Layback up xenolith slab to a mantle shelf. Undercling, traversing R off mantle shelf on small footholds. Up L to nice jug. Step R onto xenolith and straight up on extremely fingery holds to finish 1m L of BA's chains.

PA: Chris Bell & Matt Brown, 2000

Top-rope 14m
19 Assault on Toby's Mum

Set up anchor on "Basalt Assault's" chains. Start on "Toby's Mum" and layback up to the overhang, then traverse right with underclings to the obvious bulge. Reach for large jugs then continue up staying to the left of chains.

Equip: Kaspa Snoad, 2011

PA: Kaspa Snoad & Marshall Moore, 2013

Top-rope 14m
The Cutting
V1 Soft Lips

Sit start on "Bryan's Line" move up to lip of rock, then traverse right along lip and top-out with toe hook 1m right of "Tooth & Nail"[116519349].

Equip: Beattie & Kaspa Snoad, 2011

PA: Kaspa Snaod, 2011

Búlder 4m
Early Bird zone
V1 Bland Breakfast

Stand Start

PA: Sam Lavender, 2016

Búlder 4m
V1 Early Start

Sit Start

PA: Kim Kamo, 2016

Búlder 3m
V1 Unknown4

Right - (Stand start)

Búlder 2m
The Rich Zone
V1 Bring Beers

Stand Start

PA: Jordan Woodhams, 2017

Búlder 4m
Onyx Area Bring Sunscreen
V1 Bring Sunscreen

Direct route up the middle of slab

Búlder 4m
V1 Bring Sunscreen LHV

Starting on "Bring Sunscreen" climb until halfway up the wall, then moving left to finish on "Brians Corner" Difficulty is on par with "Bring Sunscreen" has a spooky finish.

PA: 20 Feb

Búlder 4m
Onyx Area The Office
V1 Xerox

Sit start, reach for hold on left. Top out to the right and scramble down the side.

PA: Brent Clark, 2016

Búlder 3m
V1 DEL

PA: Rebecca Diggins, 2018

Búlder 2m
V1 Keyboard Warriors

Stand start. Mantle to slab.

PA: Jackson & Luen Warneke, 15 Jul 2020

Búlder 3m
Onyx Area Beehive zone
V1 Queen Bee

PA: Brian Strehlow, 2017

Búlder 2m
V1 Honey I'm Home

PA: Luke Middleton, 2016

Búlder 3m
V1 The Bees Knees

PA: Uso, 2015

Búlder 3m
V1 Honey

PA: Jackson & Luen Warneke, 13 Jul 2020

Búlder 3m
Onyx Area Overhang Boulder
V1 V1 Arete

Arete on the right side of boulder.

PA:

Búlder 3m
Onyx Area Land Slide area
V1 Avalanche

PA: Glen Hayford, 2019

Búlder 3m
V1 Rock

PA: Davis Johnson, 2019

Búlder 2m
V1 Roll

PA: Davis Johnson, 2019

Búlder
Lavender Area Big Foot Boulder
V1 Fished

Sit start. Located left of "In and Out". You can see a fish painted in blue to your left. Sit on lone rock, right hand on pinch and right foot on the rock in front. Lay back and swing to left intermediate crimp, then bump up to edge.

PA: Luen Warneke & Jodie Rummer, 5 Sep 2018

Búlder 2m
Lavender Area The Peaces
V1 Crack SS

Body jam the crack, low sit-start.

PA:

Búlder 3m
V1 Easty SS

The sit-start to “Easty”

Búlder 3m
V1 Knuckle Sandwich

Sit-start off the small Boulder, up and over the bulge.

PA: Luke Middleton, 2016

Búlder 3m
Lavender Area French Zone
V1 Le Baguette

PA: Uso, 2017

Búlder 3m
Lavender Area Jurassic Zone
V1 Raptor

PA: uso, 2016

Búlder 3m
Lavender Area Triandra Tors
V1/2 Veinous

Sit start. Route follows thick white quartz veins right side of slab. Try to use only the veins for holds

PA: Adrian Corvino, 27 Ag 2023

Búlder 3m
V1 Be My Veinlet

Follows a very narrow quartz vein alongside the vague crack

PA: Adrian Corvino, 26 Ag 2023

Búlder 4m
V1 Crystal Haul

Sit start lowball (boulder right of slab). Match feet on obvious fat edge. Top out on big quartz vein to right

PA: Adrian Corvino, 9 Sep 2023

Búlder 2m
Crystal Area The Drainage Zone
V1 Bloody, wet, and hairy

PA:

Búlder 3m
Crystal Area Kings Landing
V1 Watch Tower

PA: Glen Hayford, 2019

Búlder 2m
V1 The Barrels

PA: Glen Hayford, 2019

Búlder 3m
Crystal Area The Delta Force 345 zone
V1 Centipede

PA: Jordan Woodhams, 2016

Búlder

Mostrando los 43 vías.

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