Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | Zona | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Año desconocido | |||||
29 | Eye of The Storm
| Frederick Peak | |||
26 | ★ Supervain
Start as for Bloodlines but stepping right after the 2nd FH. Follow 3 more FH's up the pillar and then join back into Bloodlines for the final crack. Equip: Chris Glastonbury PAL: Chris Glastonbury, 30 Jul 2014 | 30m, 5 | Frederick Peak | ||
24 | Princess of Freds
Start 2m R of OOAL. Up for 2 bolts to link into OOAL at 4th bolt. Equip: Chris Beric PAL: Chris Beric & Kat Damjanovic, 5 Jul 2017 | 15m, 8 | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | Meiosis
| 30m | Frederick Peak | ||
25 | ★★ Blood Sucking Scum
Starts 4m R of OoaL. From the words "on belay.. climbing" immediately kick into overdrive for tricky overhung boulder problem. Dyno to the glorious jug on the lip if you dare! Now that you're warmed up, blast your way through enjoyable and sustained jug haul to DRB. Remember to clip the 8 bolts along the way. Special beta: Fire is found to be highly effective in combating scum, spadge and water. PAL: PA: Chris Beric, 2010 | 12m, 10 | Frederick Peak | ||
26 | Rigorous Testing
| 8m, 6 | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | ★★ Perspectives
Straight up after the 2 bolts to get on the starting ledge of Rampage. PAL: Steven Ioannou | Frederick Peak | |||
25 | ★★ Half Sick Day
| 22m | Frederick Peak | ||
18 | ★★★ Absent Friends VF #1
Starting 5m L of the of AF pitch 4. Pass 4 FHs up the pocketed wall to reach crack at top. Natural Belay. PA: Nathan Bolton / Mark Gommers | 20m, 4 | Frederick Peak | ||
17 | Celery Soup
| 25m | Frederick Peak | ||
18 | Shrubbery & a Little Bit Trad
| 40m, 2 | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | Bucket Jukebox Extension
Berics Project. Links "Bucket Jukebox" into "The Appropriate Opiate". | 30m | Frederick Peak | ||
14 | Eaglehawk Dreaming
| 18m | Frederick Peak | ||
24 | Phoenix
Start 2m L of BSS and join it at the lip. Equip: Chris Beric PAL: Chris Beric & Kat Damjanovic, 5 Jul 2017 | 12m, 9 | Frederick Peak | ||
24 | Classic Combo
PAL: Chris Beric | 23m | Frederick Peak | ||
1991 | |||||
15 | ★★ The Soldier King
1
15
20m
2
10
35m
Starts 8m R of Body Armour below a sharp fin at slab in the corner between two parallel cracks. Abseil descent (bring a sling).
PAL: Mark Gommers & Tracey Power, 1991 | 55m, 2 | Frederick Peak | ||
2003 | |||||
12 | Succubus Knights
Ledge hop up trending left to the lone pine tree. PAL: Rik Whitkopp, Andrew Rule & Craig Matthews, 2003 | 30m | Frederick Peak | ||
14 | Finger of God
Starts 8m R of the cave. Climb up short corner to slabby buttress. PAL: Mark Gommers 2003? & Mark Gommers, 2003 | 25m | Frederick Peak | ||
15 | Rocky Road
Start at the top of DID. Climb corner on the left for about 7m then move left out of corner when it gets chossy. Pass honeycomb rock and large block to finish up short crack to tree belay. PAL: Mark Gommers, 2003 | 15m | Frederick Peak | ||
18 | ★ Frederick The Great
1
16
35m
2
18
35m
This two pitch route is the obvious corner you first reach when walking to the watchtower along the track.
PAL: Mark Gommers, Andrew Rule & Damien Boicos, 2003 | 70m, 2 | Frederick Peak | ||
4 | ★★ Monkey on a String VS
Starts at the north end of Escape Alley at a small tree belay. Joins into the final 3 pitches of "Monkey on a String". Walk out along the long ledge passing the descent chains. Finish on the R of the block. PAL: Rik Witkopp & Mark Gommers, 2003 | 48m | Frederick Peak | ||
16 | Idyll Times
3m R of Raptor is an obvious crackline leading to some offwidths up high. Follow this crack up to a set of twin cracks, then up to below the large offwidth. Trend L avoiding the offwidths following the crack up towards the top. Finish up a generously protected slab to DBB on the L wall. Requires a sling to escape. PAL: Rik Wittkopp & Mark Gommers, 2003 | 35m | Frederick Peak | ||
17 | ★★ Raptor
Starts 20m L of Escape Alley. A steep start up the crack to a small roof. Move up and L (before the second roof) along a diagonal finger crack past a small shrub. Delicate moves then climb up the black crimpy slab. Follow straight up to top to reach a single FH. Descend by "Idyll Times" DBB. PAL: Mark Gommers & Rik Wittkopp, 2003 | 45m | Frederick Peak | ||
15 | ★★ Pitch Black
1
13
35m
2
15
12m
3
15
37m
4
3
30m
5
9
45m
6
14
43m
About 8m R of Absent Friends is a low blocky ledge and a not-so-obvious weakness. An excellent climb with great rock and exposure, a little run-out with tricky gear in places. Escape is possible from chains at the end of pitch 2 & 4.
PAL: Rik Wittkopp, Mark Gommers (alt) & Chris Noon, 2003 | 200m, 6, 1 | Frederick Peak | ||
16 | Absent Friends Original Start
Starts about 8m R of AF at a vague grey line. Up the ramp (loose blocks on the L) and continue up for about 20m. Then up R of an orange scoop and traverse L above to reach orange rock and corner. Up corner to vegetated belay ledge and chains. PAL: Mark Gommers, Jason Mudge & Chris Noon, 2003 | 48m | Frederick Peak | ||
17 | ★★★ Absent Friends
1
17
45m
2
11
35m
3
12
15m
4
16
25m
Starts where the western track meets the rock on the vague north-eastern corner of the South Sentinel.
PAL: Mark Gommers & Nathan Walmsley (alt leads) 16/02/2003. 1st pitch FFA Mark Gommers, 2003 | 120m, 4, 2 | Frederick Peak | ||
8 | ★★ Link #1
Start at the first belay of AF, follow the obvious crack on the right to ledge and continue up, traversing right to join up with pitch 4 of Pitch Black. PA: Mark Gommers, 2003 | 42m | Frederick Peak | ||
14 | Absent Friends Original Finish
Starts about 3m R of the cave. Follow L facing corner weakness to summit area. PAL: Mark Gommers, Andrew Rule & Nathan Walmsley, 2003 | 25m | Frederick Peak | ||
20 | Sweet 'n' Sour
10m L of Raptor. Follow the major weakness up the middle of the steep black slab, then move through a small roof to a natural belay. Escape via IT. PA: Nathan Walmsley & Brett Fforde, 2003 PAL: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2011 | 45m | Frederick Peak | ||
20 | Rik's Last Smoke
PA: Rik Wittkopp & Craig Matthews, 2003 | 45m | Frederick Peak | ||
19 | ★★ Master's Apprentice
1
17
15m
2
19
20m
3
19
43m
Starts just before The Fairy Garden, just after the large boulder – look for a stainless rivet at head height. Take 1 bracket.
Escape via hidden chains below large tree at southern end of ledge. 2 x 35m raps to the ground. P1-2 Mark Gommers, Nathan Bolton, Adam Hardaker 1.7.03 P3 Rik Wittkopp, Mark Gommers 2.7.03 PA: Mark Gommers, Nathan Bolton & Adam Hardaker, 2003 PAL: Rick Wittkopp & Mark Gommers, 2003 | 78m, 3, 5 | Frederick Peak | ||
19 | ★★ Master's Apprentice
1
17
15m
2
19
20m
3
19
43m
Starts just before The Fairy Garden, just after the large boulder – look for a stainless rivet at head height. Take 1 bracket.
Escape via hidden chains below large tree at southern end of ledge. 2 x 35m raps to the ground. P1-2 Mark Gommers, Nathan Bolton, Adam Hardaker 1.7.03 P3 Rik Wittkopp, Mark Gommers 2.7.03 PA: Mark Gommers, Nathan Bolton & Adam Hardaker, 2003 PAL: Rick Wittkopp & Mark Gommers, 2003 | 78m, 3, 5 | Frederick Peak | ||
2004 | |||||
18 | ★ Pitch Black pitch 4 Direct
Follows the steep crack directly above to chains. PAL: Mark Gommers & Andrew Rule, 2004 | 10m | Frederick Peak | ||
17 | ★ Mira Nova
1
17
18m
2
12
30m
3
13
30m
4
17
50m
Starts at the ramp below the large scoop.
Be aware of loose rock on pitches 2-4. PAL: Andrew Rule (1, Mark Gommers & Leia Clark p3 Andrew Rule, 2004 Equip: Steve Ioannou, 2010 | 130m, 4, 8 | Frederick Peak | ||
13 | ★ Pitch Black Variant Finish
Set the belay further L of the original below two obvious corners. Up the R corner and onto ledge then trend R and easily up to top. PAL: Mark Gommers, 2004 | 40m | Frederick Peak | ||
12 | Body Armour
1
12
25m
2
10
15m
Starting at the right of the vegetated corner below a huge chockstone.
PAL: Andrew Rule & Leia Clark, 2004 | 40m, 2 | Frederick Peak | ||
17 | Mira Nova's Mischief
Build a belay midway through pitch 3 of "Mira Nova" below the blood orange part of the short headwall. Climb up the headwall past horizontal breaks, then traverse R to weakness and ledge. Traverse R along the set of ledges to reach the top of "Master's Apprentice". Escape via the chains. PAL: Mark Gommers, Andrew Rule & Leia Clark, 2004 | 50m | Frederick Peak | ||
2005 | |||||
24 | ★★ Out On a Limb
Starts 4m right of "Steeling Time" with rusty, coral featured jug. Clip the first bolt with an extended draw or full-length sling. Trend right to suspended block, then straight up. A short but fun climb packed with good moves, a pumpy start and then a technical finish. PA: Nathan Bolton & Mark Gommers, 2005 | 15m, 9 | Frederick Peak | ||
19 | Purple Arrows
1
10
30m
2
19
25m
Starting 20m right of The Soldier King at a small pine tree.
PAL: Jay Reilly & Robin Aiello, 2005 | 55m, 2 | Frederick Peak | ||
19 | ★★ On Its Own
Starts 10m uphill of AF at a white streak. Head straight up for 5m to first pro in horizontal break, then head right and up onto slab. Follow slab back left and up past FH (crux). Now climb up and right to the belay chains of AF. PA: Nathan Bolton / Mark Gommers, 2005 | 50m, 1 | Frederick Peak | ||
15 | ★★★ Dead Bird Mashed Pear
Starts at the saddle between the rap chains and the Termite Mound. Follow the major traversing crack along a series of slabs to reach a large curving corner with a high sloping crack (crux). Continue on to pass an extruded block and finish at a major ledge. Exit up the steep gully. PAL: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2005 | 18m | Frederick Peak | ||
18 | ★ Fairy Dust
Large open corner on the left of the cave. Start on the raised ground at a corner. Stick clip the first and only bolt to gain large jugs and gear. Move left before extruded block to easy moves and more gear. Straight up, then move R to single rap ring. PAL: Steven Ioannou, Chris Beric & Christopher Glastonbury, 2005 | 9m, 6 | Frederick Peak | ||
2006 | |||||
23 | ★ Slack Time
Start as per "Steeling Time" and finish right to "Out On a Limb" chains. PA: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2006 PAL: Steven Ioannou & Christopher Glastonbury, 2007 | 17m, 3 | Frederick Peak | ||
22 | ★★ Revenge of the Pixies
Beginning 15m R of FD, climb the steep orange slopers. Finish at anchor below roof. PA: Steven Ioannou & Christopher Glastonbury, 2006 | 9m, 5 | Frederick Peak | ||
17 | ★ Road to Nowhere
Just R of entrance to Escape Alley, below cave. Up to ramp and high FH, then R across tricky slab. Then follow gear and jugs. Traverse L (FH) then up leaning crack to ledge. Finish up short headwall to DBB in cave. PA: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2006 | 20m, 4 | Frederick Peak | ||
18 | ★ Fly on the Wall
Start as for MOAS - about 25m uphill from AF at large flake with fist sized crack. Up flake for 8m to sloping ledge and FH. Balancy moves past this to 2nd FH and corner. Up this and R to stance. R for 2m then up excellent orange rock to optional belay or go L to chains. PA: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2006 | 27m, 2 | Frederick Peak | ||
21 | ★★ Killing Time
1
18
20m
2
21
18m
3
16
17m
4
21
22m
5
12
25m
6
12
50m
Starts 7m right of TLM.
PAL: Steve Ioannou (1 & Chris Glastonbury (2, 2006 | 150m, 6, 6 | Frederick Peak | ||
8 | Link #2
Starts from the large ledge on Pitch Black (the end of the 4th pitch). Up the short steep section a few metres left of pitch 5 of PB then follow ledges left until you reach the ledge with tree in the middle of the third pitch of Absent Friends. PAL: Steve Ioannou & Chris Glastonbury, 2006 | 40m | Frederick Peak | ||
2007 | |||||
16 | ★★ Glory Days
1
16
25m
2
16
12m
Start 20m uphill from FTG at tree close to rock.
PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2007 | 37m, 2 | Frederick Peak | ||
19 | Escape to the Void
Starts about 10m right the last bit of roof in the Hyperbowl (the wave) - right of AOBTD. Up the awkward corner until it is possible to clip a FH and escape left onto slab (crux). Continue up slab passing a FH and a wire then move right to third and final FH. Climb around the bulge into the corner and up gully tending right to large ledge and trees. PAL: Steve Ioannou & Chris Glastonbury, 2007 | 28m, 3 | Frederick Peak | ||
18 | ★★ Damsel in Distress
6m L of FTG. Stick clip. up onto ledge, follow corner crack to large ledge and DBB. PAL: Jason Selman/Leia Clark, 2007 | 25m, 1 | Frederick Peak | ||
23 | ★ Slack Time
Start as per "Steeling Time" and finish right to "Out On a Limb" chains. PA: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2006 PAL: Steven Ioannou & Christopher Glastonbury, 2007 | 17m, 3 | Frederick Peak | ||
20 | ★★ Glory Days DS
Start 10m R of original (Glory Days). Up slab to stance in corner. Move L passing a FH and up to ledge. Move up and R along ledge Through bulge and a FH to join back with GD. Finish up this. PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2007 | 45m, 2 | Frederick Peak | ||
20 | ★ Consolation Prize Direct
Start as for CP. After corner go up past 2 FH on Steep ground to Join back to pitch 2 of original (Consolation Prize). PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2007 | 35m, 2 | Frederick Peak | ||
21 | ★★★ Ascendency
1
21
15m
2
18
22m
Starts from the terrace above "Escape to the Void" and is the obvious huge corner between two arêtes.
To escape, walk along the ledge to an obvious easy corner and climb this to the top. Then scramble down to rap chains. PAL: Steve Ioannou & Chris Glastonbury, 2007 | 37m, 2 | Frederick Peak | ||
23 | ★★ Monkey on a String
1
20
25m
2
23
42m
3
18
25m
4
22
8m
5
12
20m
PA: Steven Ioannou & Christopher Glastonbury (alt leads), 2007 | 120m, 5, 4 | Frederick Peak | ||
22 | ★★ Smokescreen
Starts R of FTG around the corner on the terrace, below a small roof. Up past 2 FHs and diagonally R to steep section. Through this to horizontal break and over small roof (crux). Follow the crack (with an optional rest out L). Move L just below a sharp arête to reach large ledge. Traverse to the DID anchor or use the large tree to escape. PA: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2007 | 40m, 2 | Frederick Peak | ||
20 | ★★ Blackened
Start at top of DID. Exposed and quite steep with good holds. Sustained. Lower off at top or tree belay above. PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2007 | 18m | Frederick Peak | ||
21 | ★ Cognition
Starts below the arête. Stick-clip the first bolt. Move up the ramp on the left and then right past the bolt. Follow the line of bolts to reach the ledge and headwall. PAL: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2007 | 16m, 8 | Frederick Peak | ||
2008 | |||||
18 | ★★ Consolation Prize
1
18
24m
2
10
17m
Start 4m right of GD at short steep headwall.
PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury/Leia Clark, 2008 | 41m, 2, 1 | Frederick Peak | ||
25 | ★★★ Bat Country
Starting at the anchors of Cognition. Climb the sustained crack on R to the top and move L to a rest. Up the tricky face to wide exit and ledge with DRB. It's best to avoid the semi-hanging belay by having the belayer on the ground. PAL: Steve Ioannou & Chris Glastonbury, 2008 | 20m | Frederick Peak | ||
24 | ★★★ Monkey Steals the Peach
Variant 2nd pitch for MOAS. Climb direct above belay past 2 FH then to ledge passing a wire. Up and L to corner, then L onto tooth. Traverse around to the front, pass a horizontal break and up on easier ground to natural belay on ledge. PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2008 | 40m, 2 | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★★ Lost Hanger
Start on small extruding block passed when climbing DBMP. Up jugs passing wires to large horn and a FH. Out past 2nd FH then over lip to final bolt (use 80cm sling). Up slab to summit. Do not place gear on slab and do not second this climb due to knife blade edge on lip. PAL: Steve Ioannou, 2008 | 20m, 3 | Frederick Peak | ||
2009 | |||||
26 | ★★ Mercyful Fate
The extension to Metalicious via heinous mantle then through the steep roof with intense gastons. An amazing fantasy world hidden above the Fairy Garden canopy. PA: Neil Monteith, 2009 PAL: Chris Beric, 2011 | 30m, 13 | Frederick Peak | ||
22 | ★★ Short Gold
Funky steep arête on the left edge of the Hyperbowl cave. Finish left past bolt 6 to join Metalicious and lower from that routes anchor. 7 U-bolts. PA: Neil Monteith, 2009 | 15m, 7 | Frederick Peak | ||
24 | ★★ Core Whipped
Steep cave climbing on big holds. Start 2m right of Fairy Dust. Up wall to under roof (knee bar here!) then out left across roof to anchors. Overhangs 5m. 6 U-bolts. PA: Neil Monteith, 2009 | 15m, 6 | Frederick Peak | ||
16 | The Blackbody Roaster
Starts just L of the arête at the beginning of Cooker Wall. Follow the crackline then gear to finish at the DBB for IT. PAL: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2009 | 25m | Frederick Peak | ||
25 | ★★ Townsvillians
Start up "Revenge of the Pixies" for two bolts, then break L and up through juggy ever-steepening terrain. An awkward step L under the roof gives the remarkably trad-like finish. Add a star if you like jamming. Overhangs 8m. 10 bolts. PAL: Lee Cujes, 2009 | 20m, 10 | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★★★ Hyperbole
As for Townsvillians, but go straight up, then punch R with mind blowing scoops to a rest below roof. Breach the roof, and desperately undercling your way right to anchor. Overhangs 10m. 13 bolts. PAL: Lee Cujes, 2009 | 25m, 13 | Frederick Peak | ||
23 | ★ Welcome to the Jungle
1
20
30m
2
23
50m
Ambiguous start R of OMF.
Same escape as MA. PAL: Chris Beric/Chris Glastonbury, 2009 | 80m, 2, 6 | Frederick Peak | ||
23 | ★★ Metalicious
Sustained technical face climbing. Starts just left of cave edge, 2m left of White Gold. Bouldery start then blocky bulges to little right traverse to finish at anchors over last bulge. 9 U-bolts. PAL: Neil Monteith, 2009 | 15m, 9 | Frederick Peak | ||
26 | ★★ Neurofriend
Up the limestone-like wall past several crucial pockets to ledge. Step left to hueco you could almost fit in, then breach black flaky wall using an elegant solution to get established beneath overhang. Here comes fun! Up the steep pockets you go with increasingly difficult moves to finally move L to big orange scoops and finishing jug. 10 bolts. PAL: Lee Cujes, 2009 | 20m, 10 | Frederick Peak | ||
24 | ★★ Coola
Starts about 5m R of "Master's Apprentice". Perfect little sport route with some lovely pockets. Start off block, up orange wall on good holds to final tricky bulge. It's a nice grade 21 warm-up to 6th bolt. 7 U-bolts. PAL: Neil Monteith, 2009 | 15m, 7 | Frederick Peak | ||
26 | ★★★ Kicking and Screaming
Stellar, continuous climbing. 2m R of "Coola". Up to overlap and past orange seam. Tough traverse directly L past second last bolt and up to rooflet (final bolt). Onwards to anchors. 60m rope and 12 draws required. PAL: Lee Cujes, 2009 | 27m, 12 | Frederick Peak | ||
2010 | |||||
19 | ★ No Free Lunch
8m L of GD. Up jugs on steep wall past a FH to slab. Up thin crack to corner and exit at tree belay. PAL: Chris Glastonbury & Madoc Sheehan, 2010 | 18m, 1 | Frederick Peak | ||
24 | ★★ That's Not Honey In My Bucket
Up Orange face between "Glory Days DS" and "Damsel in Distress". Tough moves up weakness to series of tough bulges. PAL: Chris Glastonbury, 2010 | 26m, 11 | Frederick Peak | ||
25 | ★★ Blood Sucking Scum
Starts 4m R of OoaL. From the words "on belay.. climbing" immediately kick into overdrive for tricky overhung boulder problem. Dyno to the glorious jug on the lip if you dare! Now that you're warmed up, blast your way through enjoyable and sustained jug haul to DRB. Remember to clip the 8 bolts along the way. Special beta: Fire is found to be highly effective in combating scum, spadge and water. PAL: PA: Chris Beric, 2010 | 12m, 10 | Frederick Peak | ||
26 | ★★★ Another One Bites The Dust
1
26
30m
2
25
20m
3
21
35m
4
18
20m
Starts up the ramp in the bowl at the end of The Fairy Garden.
PAL: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2010 | 110m, 4, 4 | Frederick Peak | ||
17 | ★ Mira Nova
1
17
18m
2
12
30m
3
13
30m
4
17
50m
Starts at the ramp below the large scoop.
Be aware of loose rock on pitches 2-4. PAL: Andrew Rule (1, Mark Gommers & Leia Clark p3 Andrew Rule, 2004 Equip: Steve Ioannou, 2010 | 130m, 4, 8 | Frederick Peak | ||
24 | ★★ Bloodlines
Starting 10m right of Smokescreen in the orange bowl. CLimb up past the first FH and follow the crack. Move left to horizontal and over short headwall to stance. Move up and left to overhanging corner past two more FH's to easier ground and right trending crack to ledge and DRB. PAL: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2010 | 30m, 5 | Frederick Peak | ||
2011 | |||||
26 | ★★ Mercyful Fate
The extension to Metalicious via heinous mantle then through the steep roof with intense gastons. An amazing fantasy world hidden above the Fairy Garden canopy. PA: Neil Monteith, 2009 PAL: Chris Beric, 2011 | 30m, 13 | Frederick Peak | ||
20 | Sweet 'n' Sour
10m L of Raptor. Follow the major weakness up the middle of the steep black slab, then move through a small roof to a natural belay. Escape via IT. PA: Nathan Walmsley & Brett Fforde, 2003 PAL: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2011 | 45m | Frederick Peak | ||
15 | Grovel
Better than the name suggests. Good gear (medium wires and cams) and interesting climbing up the corner to belay on the big ledge on the L. Escape as for Hoop Pine Crack. PAL: Gordon Baudino & Madoc Sheehan, 2011 | 20m | Frederick Peak | ||
2012 | |||||
26 | ★ Alternate Destination
Shares first 5 bolts of FIFO and then extends R. Equip: Gareth Llewellin, 2012 PAL: Glen Hayford, 7 Jul 2018 | 14m, 10 | Frederick Peak | ||
22 | ★★ Too Late, Too Late
1
22
25m
2
22
18m
A fun and exposed sport multi-pitch up the obvious arête.
PAL: Steve Ioannou (1) & Chris Glastonbury (2), 2012 | 43m, 2, 12 | Frederick Peak | ||
18 | Black Gold
The direct start to PB. Starts 15m R of the original start. Up the black slab to ledge and up steep blocky corner on thin gear. Pull over onto easier ground and follow the RH facing corner to a short headwall to PB 2nd pitch belay chains. PAL: Chris Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2012 | 40m | Frederick Peak | ||
23 | ★★ Mary-Kate
Located above the long ledge above Monkey on a String VS. Obvious wide off-width crack on the L. Punch through the steep hand crack to reach a good rest. Move out R to follow the crack system to a large ledge. Escape via the pine tree to the L. PAL: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2012 | 20m | Frederick Peak | ||
20 | ★ Ashley
Located above the long ledge above Monkey on a String VS. 5m R of "Mary-Kate". Up the open corner to reach a rest. The crack then widens to allow hands. Belay at a ledge. Escape as for "Mary-Kate". PAL: Steve Ioannou & Chris Glastonbury, 2012 | 20m | Frederick Peak | ||
17 | Path of Destruction
Up blunt arete 3m R of SK. PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2012 | 15m | Frederick Peak | ||
18 | Slab King
L trending crack on R of bowl. PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2012 | 20m | Frederick Peak | ||
20 | ★★★ Three Lost Monkeys
1
13
12m
2
19
25m
3
20
27m
4
15
12m
One of the mega classic multi-pitches at Frederick Peak bolted by the three monkeys themselves.
PAL: Chris Beric, Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2012 | 76m, 4, 12 | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★★★ Synaesthesia
Starting from the anchors of Cognition, move up L out to the striking arête and straight up the exposed arête to a rest. Edge your way up to a layback, then veer sightly R towards the welcome ledge. PAL: Chris Glastonbury, 2012 | 35m, 16 | Frederick Peak | ||
25 | ★★ Arch Enemy
Start up Fairy Dust, then follow arching crack with committing moves on natural pro. Large gear useful. Finish above pod below anchor of Townsvillians. PAL: Chris Glastonbury, 2012 | 25m, 6 | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | ★★★ Supernova
An upper pitch route. Starts at MN's first belay. Up R past four bolts, then a traverse out R onto super exposed overhanging wall. Devious bouldery crux then pumpy jugging up right to top out the wall. PAL: Steve Ioannou, 2012 | 25m, 13 | Frederick Peak | ||
22 | Black Hole
Insidious crack 7m L of PITS. Start at left end of ledge, not that you'd want to... PAL: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2012 | 20m | Frederick Peak | ||
19 | ★★ Sabbra Cadabra
Great climbing starting on the first three bolts of TLM pitch 1. Straight up the slab through immaculate orange rock trending right on ledge. Step out left from the sanctuary corner for exposed finish at FEOS anchor. Lower off these anchors or continue to p2 anchor of TLM. PA: Chris Beric, Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2012 | 35m, 12 | Frederick Peak | ||
24 | ★★ Mad Agent
An upper pitch route. Starts at MN's first belay. Straight up, tending slightly L and following the bolts on slabby ground which ends up being pretty pumpy and feeling like a trad route towards the top. Great stance to clip anchor. Subject of one of the biggest hype campaigns in climbing history. DO MAD AGENT! PA: Chris Beric & Christopher Glastonbury, 2012 PAL: Chris Beric & Chris Glastonbury, 2012 | 27m, 12 | Frederick Peak | ||
24 | ★★ Mad Agent
An upper pitch route. Starts at MN's first belay. Straight up, tending slightly L and following the bolts on slabby ground which ends up being pretty pumpy and feeling like a trad route towards the top. Great stance to clip anchor. Subject of one of the biggest hype campaigns in climbing history. DO MAD AGENT! PA: Chris Beric & Christopher Glastonbury, 2012 PAL: Chris Beric & Chris Glastonbury, 2012 | 27m, 12 | Frederick Peak | ||
29 | ★★★ Transcontinental
Words can't do this route justice. Undeniably a world-class, "you should travel here to do this" route. Starts with stickclipping the bolt a couple of metres right of Citizen Arcane. Technical slab/groove start to the Facebook-famous dyno. Motor up the crack and confront the "press". Seam section to monster pockets. An unforgettable finale to cap things off. PAL: Lee Cujes, 2012 PA: Lee Cujes, 2012 | 22m, 9 | Frederick Peak | ||
25 | ★★ Fly In Fly Out
Steep sustained pocket pulling reminiscent of Nowra. Left side of cave finishing out left onto orange wall. PAL: Gareth Llewellin, 2012 Equip: Neil Monteith, 2012 PA: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 12m, 5 | Frederick Peak |