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Vías en South Sentinel

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Ordenado por: Edición en bloque (máx. 100)

Mostrando 1 - 100 de 215 vías.

Grado Vía Estilo de equipamiento Popularidad Zona
Año desconocido
29 Eye of The Storm
Deportiva Frederick Peak
26 Supervain

Start as for Bloodlines but stepping right after the 2nd FH. Follow 3 more FH's up the pillar and then join back into Bloodlines for the final crack.

Equip: Chris Glastonbury

PAL: Chris Glastonbury, 30 Jul 2014

Clásica mixta 30m, 5 Frederick Peak
24 Princess of Freds

Start 2m R of OOAL. Up for 2 bolts to link into OOAL at 4th bolt.

Equip: Chris Beric

PAL: Chris Beric & Kat Damjanovic, 5 Jul 2017

Deportiva 15m, 8 Frederick Peak
28 Meiosis
Deportiva 30m Frederick Peak
25 Blood Sucking Scum

Starts 4m R of OoaL. From the words "on belay.. climbing" immediately kick into overdrive for tricky overhung boulder problem. Dyno to the glorious jug on the lip if you dare! Now that you're warmed up, blast your way through enjoyable and sustained jug haul to DRB. Remember to clip the 8 bolts along the way.

Special beta: Fire is found to be highly effective in combating scum, spadge and water.

PAL:

PA: Chris Beric, 2010

Deportiva 12m, 10 Frederick Peak
26 Rigorous Testing
Deportiva 8m, 6 Frederick Peak
28 Perspectives

Straight up after the 2 bolts to get on the starting ledge of Rampage.

Deportiva Frederick Peak
25 Half Sick Day
Deportiva 22m Frederick Peak
18 Absent Friends VF #1

Starting 5m L of the of AF pitch 4. Pass 4 FHs up the pocketed wall to reach crack at top. Natural Belay.

PA: Nathan Bolton / Mark Gommers

Clásica mixta 20m, 4 Frederick Peak
17 Celery Soup
Clásica 25m Frederick Peak
18 Shrubbery & a Little Bit Trad
Clásica mixta 40m, 2 Frederick Peak
27 Bucket Jukebox Extension

Berics Project. Links "Bucket Jukebox" into "The Appropriate Opiate".

DeportivaProyecto 30m Frederick Peak
14 Eaglehawk Dreaming
Clásica 18m Frederick Peak
24 Phoenix

Start 2m L of BSS and join it at the lip.

Equip: Chris Beric

PAL: Chris Beric & Kat Damjanovic, 5 Jul 2017

Deportiva 12m, 9 Frederick Peak
24 Classic Combo Deportiva 23m Frederick Peak
1991
15 The Soldier King
1 15 20m
2 10 35m

Starts 8m R of Body Armour below a sharp fin at slab in the corner between two parallel cracks. Abseil descent (bring a sling).

  1. 20m 15 Start on the slab through to crux and past the fin to easier path right. Continue to the ledge right of the large pine tree - natural belay.

  2. 35m 10 Head up from the belay past multiple ledges to a tricky belay at the top. Escape by scrambling down right towards the chains.

PAL: Mark Gommers & Tracey Power, 1991

Clásica 55m, 2 Frederick Peak
2003
12 Succubus Knights

Ledge hop up trending left to the lone pine tree.

PAL: Rik Whitkopp, Andrew Rule & Craig Matthews, 2003

Clásica 30m Frederick Peak
14 Finger of God

Starts 8m R of the cave. Climb up short corner to slabby buttress.

PAL: Mark Gommers 2003? & Mark Gommers, 2003

Clásica 25m Frederick Peak
15 Rocky Road

Start at the top of DID. Climb corner on the left for about 7m then move left out of corner when it gets chossy. Pass honeycomb rock and large block to finish up short crack to tree belay.

PAL: Mark Gommers, 2003

Clásica 15m Frederick Peak
18 Frederick The Great
1 16 35m
2 18 35m

This two pitch route is the obvious corner you first reach when walking to the watchtower along the track.

  1. 33m 16 Pull up onto slab and follow to the base of corner. Continue up the corner to sloping ledge and large tree. Up the wide crack on the left wall to ledge with a DBB.

  2. 30m 18 Step right around the arête to the face. Climb up and slightly trending right to a right traverse to avoid the large blocks towards the end. Move back left and up dirty ramp to ledge at the top of block. Escape is possible from Blackened lower off.

PAL: Mark Gommers, Andrew Rule & Damien Boicos, 2003

Clásica 70m, 2 Frederick Peak
4 Monkey on a String VS

Starts at the north end of Escape Alley at a small tree belay. Joins into the final 3 pitches of "Monkey on a String". Walk out along the long ledge passing the descent chains. Finish on the R of the block.

PAL: Rik Witkopp & Mark Gommers, 2003

Clásica 48m Frederick Peak
16 Idyll Times

3m R of Raptor is an obvious crackline leading to some offwidths up high. Follow this crack up to a set of twin cracks, then up to below the large offwidth. Trend L avoiding the offwidths following the crack up towards the top. Finish up a generously protected slab to DBB on the L wall. Requires a sling to escape.

PAL: Rik Wittkopp & Mark Gommers, 2003

Clásica 35m Frederick Peak
17 Raptor

Starts 20m L of Escape Alley. A steep start up the crack to a small roof. Move up and L (before the second roof) along a diagonal finger crack past a small shrub. Delicate moves then climb up the black crimpy slab. Follow straight up to top to reach a single FH. Descend by "Idyll Times" DBB.

PAL: Mark Gommers & Rik Wittkopp, 2003

Clásica 45m Frederick Peak
15 Pitch Black
1 13 35m
2 15 12m
3 15 37m
4 3 30m
5 9 45m
6 14 43m

About 8m R of Absent Friends is a low blocky ledge and a not-so-obvious weakness. An excellent climb with great rock and exposure, a little run-out with tricky gear in places. Escape is possible from chains at the end of pitch 2 & 4.

  1. 13 35m Follow weakness on good rock until you reach a ledge with a single FH.

  2. 15 12m Trend up right to below large death block – don't touch it! Place gear and begin the exposed juggy traverse around arête to small ledge and chains.

  3. 15 37m Go up from belay, trend left below overlap and follow left facing ramp for a few metres until a small ledge with loose blocks above. Head out right past a tricky crux section on sketchy gear and pull through a final steep section to reach a large sloping ledge and cave (DBB).

  4. 3 30m Scramble up left under cave and up loose gully or the wall on your right. Continue until you reach a chain belay and large tree directly above previous belay. Escape is possible here via chains.

  5. 9 45m Continue through steep section and small V groove (little gear) to reach a ledge. Or alternatively start left at the featured corner. Continue up well featured rock to belay ledge below final headwall.

  6. 14 43m Trend up and slightly right through the steep section before moving R past 1m high horn. Now move up heavily featured section to summit.

PAL: Rik Wittkopp, Mark Gommers (alt) & Chris Noon, 2003

Clásica mixta 200m, 6, 1 Frederick Peak
16 Absent Friends Original Start

Starts about 8m R of AF at a vague grey line. Up the ramp (loose blocks on the L) and continue up for about 20m. Then up R of an orange scoop and traverse L above to reach orange rock and corner. Up corner to vegetated belay ledge and chains.

PAL: Mark Gommers, Jason Mudge & Chris Noon, 2003

Clásica 48m Frederick Peak
17 Absent Friends
1 17 45m
2 11 35m
3 12 15m
4 16 25m

Starts where the western track meets the rock on the vague north-eastern corner of the South Sentinel.

  1. Up from initialled corner to large scoop and gear. Move R out of scoop and continue up the crack. Move L past 1 FH to a small horn and another FH. Gain the corner crack and follow the ledges to vegetated belay ledge and chains.

  2. Up and L from the belay through vegetation to gain the large detached rib. Pass optional rivet on the main wall (requires 1 bracket) and follow rib to ledge with prominent crack. Up to gain large ledge with tree.

  3. Up steep scooped wall to sloping ledge and traverse L to single FH (back up with gear).

  4. Obvious crack above belay then easy corner to summit.

PAL: Mark Gommers & Nathan Walmsley (alt leads) 16/02/2003. 1st pitch FFA Mark Gommers, 2003

Clásica mixta 120m, 4, 2 Frederick Peak
8 Link #1

Start at the first belay of AF, follow the obvious crack on the right to ledge and continue up, traversing right to join up with pitch 4 of Pitch Black.

PA: Mark Gommers, 2003

Clásica 42m Frederick Peak
14 Absent Friends Original Finish

Starts about 3m R of the cave. Follow L facing corner weakness to summit area.

PAL: Mark Gommers, Andrew Rule & Nathan Walmsley, 2003

Clásica 25m Frederick Peak
20 Sweet 'n' Sour

10m L of Raptor. Follow the major weakness up the middle of the steep black slab, then move through a small roof to a natural belay. Escape via IT.

PA: Nathan Walmsley & Brett Fforde, 2003

PAL: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2011

Clásica 45m Frederick Peak
20 Rik's Last Smoke

PA: Rik Wittkopp & Craig Matthews, 2003

Clásica 45m Frederick Peak
19 Master's Apprentice
1 17 15m
2 19 20m
3 19 43m

Starts just before The Fairy Garden, just after the large boulder – look for a stainless rivet at head height. Take 1 bracket.

  1. 15m (17) Up past rivet into small corner and gear. Move left along ledge to gain slick diagonal crack. Follow this to belay ledge.

  2. 20m (19) Follow the loose but easy buttress on the left side of the ledge to gain steep face. Climb through the sustained face passing 3 FHs and up to chains on ledge.

  3. 45m (19) From the chains traverse right and up to FH. Technical moves past this (crux) to ledge with weakness on left side. Follow this tending left to sloping black ledge. Continue up cracks to the right of this ledge until you reach a large corner/chimney. Now up this to large ledge and tree belay.

Escape via hidden chains below large tree at southern end of ledge. 2 x 35m raps to the ground.

P1-2 Mark Gommers, Nathan Bolton, Adam Hardaker 1.7.03

P3 Rik Wittkopp, Mark Gommers 2.7.03

PA: Mark Gommers, Nathan Bolton & Adam Hardaker, 2003

PAL: Rick Wittkopp & Mark Gommers, 2003

Clásica mixta 78m, 3, 5 Frederick Peak
19 Master's Apprentice
1 17 15m
2 19 20m
3 19 43m

Starts just before The Fairy Garden, just after the large boulder – look for a stainless rivet at head height. Take 1 bracket.

  1. 15m (17) Up past rivet into small corner and gear. Move left along ledge to gain slick diagonal crack. Follow this to belay ledge.

  2. 20m (19) Follow the loose but easy buttress on the left side of the ledge to gain steep face. Climb through the sustained face passing 3 FHs and up to chains on ledge.

  3. 45m (19) From the chains traverse right and up to FH. Technical moves past this (crux) to ledge with weakness on left side. Follow this tending left to sloping black ledge. Continue up cracks to the right of this ledge until you reach a large corner/chimney. Now up this to large ledge and tree belay.

Escape via hidden chains below large tree at southern end of ledge. 2 x 35m raps to the ground.

P1-2 Mark Gommers, Nathan Bolton, Adam Hardaker 1.7.03

P3 Rik Wittkopp, Mark Gommers 2.7.03

PA: Mark Gommers, Nathan Bolton & Adam Hardaker, 2003

PAL: Rick Wittkopp & Mark Gommers, 2003

Clásica mixta 78m, 3, 5 Frederick Peak
2004
18 Pitch Black pitch 4 Direct

Follows the steep crack directly above to chains.

PAL: Mark Gommers & Andrew Rule, 2004

Clásica 10m Frederick Peak
17 Mira Nova
1 17 18m
2 12 30m
3 13 30m
4 17 50m

Starts at the ramp below the large scoop.

  1. 18m 17 Up via the grey scoop past the 1st FH. Traverse out left and then around the block to easier ground. Up to ledge with tree and DRB.

  2. 30m 12 Up the obvious corner. Go left and up until you reach the large ledge beneath the short headwall.

  3. 30m 13 Walk left along ledge and climb around bulge to gain short steep corner. Up corner and then diagonally left until you reach a small section of orange rock below a steep headwall. Belay at end of orange section.

  4. 50m 17 Climb up the headwall past horizontal breaks, then traverse right to crack. Up and over to reach the large ledge. Traverse right along the set of ledges to reach the top of Master's Apprentice. Escape via the chains.

Be aware of loose rock on pitches 2-4.

PAL: Andrew Rule (1, Mark Gommers & Leia Clark p3 Andrew Rule, 2004

Equip: Steve Ioannou, 2010

Clásica mixta 130m, 4, 8 Frederick Peak
13 Pitch Black Variant Finish

Set the belay further L of the original below two obvious corners. Up the R corner and onto ledge then trend R and easily up to top.

PAL: Mark Gommers, 2004

Clásica 40m Frederick Peak
12 Body Armour
1 12 25m
2 10 15m

Starting at the right of the vegetated corner below a huge chockstone.

  1. Up the right side of the chockstone onto ledge and continue up right for a few metres to large sloping corner and ledge. Continue up the corner, finishing on a nice featured headwall to a large ledge when you can set up a belay.

  2. Move five metres right through the pine garden joining pitch 2 of "The Soldier King".

PAL: Andrew Rule & Leia Clark, 2004

Clásica 40m, 2 Frederick Peak
17 Mira Nova's Mischief

Build a belay midway through pitch 3 of "Mira Nova" below the blood orange part of the short headwall. Climb up the headwall past horizontal breaks, then traverse R to weakness and ledge. Traverse R along the set of ledges to reach the top of "Master's Apprentice". Escape via the chains.

PAL: Mark Gommers, Andrew Rule & Leia Clark, 2004

Clásica 50m Frederick Peak
2005
24 Out On a Limb

Starts 4m right of "Steeling Time" with rusty, coral featured jug. Clip the first bolt with an extended draw or full-length sling. Trend right to suspended block, then straight up. A short but fun climb packed with good moves, a pumpy start and then a technical finish.

PA: Nathan Bolton & Mark Gommers, 2005

Deportiva 15m, 9 Frederick Peak
19 Purple Arrows
1 10 30m
2 19 25m

Starting 20m right of The Soldier King at a small pine tree.

  1. 10 30m Up through ledges trending left to the lone pine tree.

  2. 19 25m Continue up towards headwall and then left before it steepens. Continue on to join in with the finish of The Soldier King.

PAL: Jay Reilly & Robin Aiello, 2005

Clásica 55m, 2 Frederick Peak
19 On Its Own

Starts 10m uphill of AF at a white streak. Head straight up for 5m to first pro in horizontal break, then head right and up onto slab. Follow slab back left and up past FH (crux). Now climb up and right to the belay chains of AF.

PA: Nathan Bolton / Mark Gommers, 2005

Clásica mixta 50m, 1 Frederick Peak
15 Dead Bird Mashed Pear

Starts at the saddle between the rap chains and the Termite Mound. Follow the major traversing crack along a series of slabs to reach a large curving corner with a high sloping crack (crux). Continue on to pass an extruded block and finish at a major ledge. Exit up the steep gully.

PAL: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2005

Clásica 18m Frederick Peak
18 Fairy Dust

Large open corner on the left of the cave. Start on the raised ground at a corner. Stick clip the first and only bolt to gain large jugs and gear. Move left before extruded block to easy moves and more gear. Straight up, then move R to single rap ring.

PAL: Steven Ioannou, Chris Beric & Christopher Glastonbury, 2005

Deportiva 9m, 6 Frederick Peak
2006
23 Slack Time

Start as per "Steeling Time" and finish right to "Out On a Limb" chains.

Clásica mixta 17m, 3 Frederick Peak
22 Revenge of the Pixies

Beginning 15m R of FD, climb the steep orange slopers. Finish at anchor below roof.

PA: Steven Ioannou & Christopher Glastonbury, 2006

Deportiva 9m, 5 Frederick Peak
17 Road to Nowhere

Just R of entrance to Escape Alley, below cave. Up to ramp and high FH, then R across tricky slab. Then follow gear and jugs. Traverse L (FH) then up leaning crack to ledge. Finish up short headwall to DBB in cave.

PA: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2006

Clásica mixta 20m, 4 Frederick Peak
18 Fly on the Wall

Start as for MOAS - about 25m uphill from AF at large flake with fist sized crack. Up flake for 8m to sloping ledge and FH. Balancy moves past this to 2nd FH and corner. Up this and R to stance. R for 2m then up excellent orange rock to optional belay or go L to chains.

PA: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2006

Clásica mixta 27m, 2 Frederick Peak
21 Killing Time
1 18 20m
2 21 18m
3 16 17m
4 21 22m
5 12 25m
6 12 50m

Starts 7m right of TLM.

  1. 20m 18 Head up the black slab through the crux passing 3 FHs. Place gear before mantling on small ledge. Trend up and slightly right and continue about 4m left across ledge to base of 'V' corner and go up. Head right to small ledge with a natural belay.

  2. 18m 21 Go straight up the steep yellow corner for 2m and traverse right above the overlap. Continue up right until you reach a ledge and FH. Up the thin slab through the crux with 2 more FHs and then into cave with rings. Escape via a 35m rap to the ground.

  3. 17m 16 Head right out of cave (FH) and up past fin onto a ledge. Move back left and up onto slab then diagonally right to orange wall. Up this for 5m then traverse left to belay about 3m below a large spike.

  4. 22m 21 Head left from belay along ledge then up short corner to large sloping ledge. Avoid the loose blocks while traversing right along ledge and lean out to clip FH. Up exposed corner (crux) then right onto ledge. Follow the heavily featured wall to ledge with bollard and tree - this is the PB pitch 4 belay. Walk behind the tree for 5m until you meet the rock again. Escape is possible via PB.

  5. 25m 12 Up right to ledge and traverse 8m right. Continue straight up to ledge with orange thread. Take care with the loose blocks on traverse.

  6. 50m 12 Up the easy slab for 25m to reach a ledge below an orange roof. Move up cracks to the right of the roof and then move back left onto slab. Up the slab then finish straight up steep final wall.

PAL: Steve Ioannou (1 & Chris Glastonbury (2, 2006

Clásica mixta 150m, 6, 6 Frederick Peak
8 Link #2

Starts from the large ledge on Pitch Black (the end of the 4th pitch). Up the short steep section a few metres left of pitch 5 of PB then follow ledges left until you reach the ledge with tree in the middle of the third pitch of Absent Friends.

PAL: Steve Ioannou & Chris Glastonbury, 2006

Clásica 40m Frederick Peak
2007
16 Glory Days
1 16 25m
2 16 12m

Start 20m uphill from FTG at tree close to rock.

  1. (25m 16) Slab on LHS of tree then move R to corner up high. Up corner and move R onto ledge. Up wall to ledge and Belay above scrub.

  2. (12m 16) Up crack left of large orange corner. Up small left facing corner toward tree at the top. Escape off tree.

PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2007

Clásica 37m, 2 Frederick Peak
19 Escape to the Void

Starts about 10m right the last bit of roof in the Hyperbowl (the wave) - right of AOBTD. Up the awkward corner until it is possible to clip a FH and escape left onto slab (crux). Continue up slab passing a FH and a wire then move right to third and final FH. Climb around the bulge into the corner and up gully tending right to large ledge and trees.

PAL: Steve Ioannou & Chris Glastonbury, 2007

Clásica mixta 28m, 3 Frederick Peak
18 Damsel in Distress

6m L of FTG. Stick clip. up onto ledge, follow corner crack to large ledge and DBB.

PAL: Jason Selman/Leia Clark, 2007

Clásica mixta 25m, 1 Frederick Peak
23 Slack Time

Start as per "Steeling Time" and finish right to "Out On a Limb" chains.

Clásica mixta 17m, 3 Frederick Peak
20 Glory Days DS

Start 10m R of original (Glory Days). Up slab to stance in corner. Move L passing a FH and up to ledge. Move up and R along ledge Through bulge and a FH to join back with GD. Finish up this.

PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2007

Clásica mixta 45m, 2 Frederick Peak
20 Consolation Prize Direct

Start as for CP. After corner go up past 2 FH on Steep ground to Join back to pitch 2 of original (Consolation Prize).

PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2007

Clásica mixta 35m, 2 Frederick Peak
21 Ascendency
1 21 15m
2 18 22m

Starts from the terrace above "Escape to the Void" and is the obvious huge corner between two arêtes.

  1. 15m 21 Straight up the sustained corner with bomber gear then traverse left to exposed belay ledge below a triangular roof.

  2. 22m 18 Climb slightly right of belay an up through a committing layback (exposure!) to easier ground. Continue up, staying close to the arête to large belay ledge with a fixed pin (on a block a few m from the edge, facing the gulley).

To escape, walk along the ledge to an obvious easy corner and climb this to the top. Then scramble down to rap chains.

PAL: Steve Ioannou & Chris Glastonbury, 2007

Clásica 37m, 2 Frederick Peak
23 Monkey on a String
1 20 25m
2 23 42m
3 18 25m
4 22 8m
5 12 20m
  1. (25m 20) As for FOTW, move L after cam placement, through rooflet to ledge, up L facing corner to chains.

  2. (42m 23) L for 4m (cams) til possible to move up and clip FH. Over ledge and up steep wall past 2 FH to awkward rest below overlap (gear). Exit on L past FH to gain easier wall above. Move R then up slab to large ledge.

  3. (25m 18) Up obvious crack a few metres R of large detached block to ledge, then R to large ledge with tree. Up featured corner to perfect crack below cave.

  4. (8m 22) Up 45 degree wall past 3 FH then slightly R up slab to natural belay.

  5. (20m 12) move diagonally L below scrub toward L side of large block. Finish up last few metres of AF.

PA: Steven Ioannou & Christopher Glastonbury (alt leads), 2007

Clásica mixta 120m, 5, 4 Frederick Peak
22 Smokescreen

Starts R of FTG around the corner on the terrace, below a small roof. Up past 2 FHs and diagonally R to steep section. Through this to horizontal break and over small roof (crux). Follow the crack (with an optional rest out L). Move L just below a sharp arête to reach large ledge. Traverse to the DID anchor or use the large tree to escape.

PA: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2007

Clásica mixta 40m, 2 Frederick Peak
20 Blackened

Start at top of DID. Exposed and quite steep with good holds. Sustained. Lower off at top or tree belay above.

PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2007

Deportiva 18m Frederick Peak
21 Cognition

Starts below the arête. Stick-clip the first bolt. Move up the ramp on the left and then right past the bolt. Follow the line of bolts to reach the ledge and headwall.

PAL: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2007

Deportiva 16m, 8 Frederick Peak
2008
18 Consolation Prize
1 18 24m
2 10 17m

Start 4m right of GD at short steep headwall.

  1. (24m 18) FH to reach shallow ledge and easier ground. Join up and finish with GD.

  2. (17m 10) Traverse left along ledge to crack. Up this and corner to slab. up to Belay descend via GD.

PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury/Leia Clark, 2008

Clásica mixta 41m, 2, 1 Frederick Peak
25 Bat Country

Starting at the anchors of Cognition. Climb the sustained crack on R to the top and move L to a rest. Up the tricky face to wide exit and ledge with DRB. It's best to avoid the semi-hanging belay by having the belayer on the ground.

PAL: Steve Ioannou & Chris Glastonbury, 2008

Clásica 20m Frederick Peak
24 Monkey Steals the Peach

Variant 2nd pitch for MOAS. Climb direct above belay past 2 FH then to ledge passing a wire. Up and L to corner, then L onto tooth. Traverse around to the front, pass a horizontal break and up on easier ground to natural belay on ledge.

PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2008

Clásica mixta 40m, 2 Frederick Peak
27 Lost Hanger

Start on small extruding block passed when climbing DBMP. Up jugs passing wires to large horn and a FH. Out past 2nd FH then over lip to final bolt (use 80cm sling). Up slab to summit. Do not place gear on slab and do not second this climb due to knife blade edge on lip.

PAL: Steve Ioannou, 2008

Clásica mixta 20m, 3 Frederick Peak
2009
26 Mercyful Fate

The extension to Metalicious via heinous mantle then through the steep roof with intense gastons. An amazing fantasy world hidden above the Fairy Garden canopy.

PA: Neil Monteith, 2009

PAL: Chris Beric, 2011

Deportiva 30m, 13 Frederick Peak
22 Short Gold

Funky steep arête on the left edge of the Hyperbowl cave. Finish left past bolt 6 to join Metalicious and lower from that routes anchor. 7 U-bolts.

PA: Neil Monteith, 2009

Deportiva 15m, 7 Frederick Peak
24 Core Whipped

Steep cave climbing on big holds. Start 2m right of Fairy Dust. Up wall to under roof (knee bar here!) then out left across roof to anchors. Overhangs 5m. 6 U-bolts.

PA: Neil Monteith, 2009

Deportiva 15m, 6 Frederick Peak
16 The Blackbody Roaster

Starts just L of the arête at the beginning of Cooker Wall. Follow the crackline then gear to finish at the DBB for IT.

PAL: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2009

Clásica 25m Frederick Peak
25 Townsvillians

Start up "Revenge of the Pixies" for two bolts, then break L and up through juggy ever-steepening terrain. An awkward step L under the roof gives the remarkably trad-like finish. Add a star if you like jamming. Overhangs 8m. 10 bolts.

PAL: Lee Cujes, 2009

Deportiva 20m, 10 Frederick Peak
27 Hyperbole

As for Townsvillians, but go straight up, then punch R with mind blowing scoops to a rest below roof. Breach the roof, and desperately undercling your way right to anchor. Overhangs 10m. 13 bolts.

PAL: Lee Cujes, 2009

Deportiva 25m, 13 Frederick Peak
23 Welcome to the Jungle
1 20 30m
2 23 50m

Ambiguous start R of OMF.

  1. (30m 20) Stick clip. 2nd bolt (crux) and up to easier ground. Trend L, then R to steep corner at large block. over block to slab and belay on ledge.

  2. (50m 23) Up through orange bowl and 4 bolts. Up headwall on gear, then through scoops and 2 more bolts. Up slab to L facing chimney and ledge.

Same escape as MA.

PAL: Chris Beric/Chris Glastonbury, 2009

Clásica mixta 80m, 2, 6 Frederick Peak
23 Metalicious

Sustained technical face climbing. Starts just left of cave edge, 2m left of White Gold. Bouldery start then blocky bulges to little right traverse to finish at anchors over last bulge. 9 U-bolts.

PAL: Neil Monteith, 2009

Deportiva 15m, 9 Frederick Peak
26 Neurofriend

Up the limestone-like wall past several crucial pockets to ledge. Step left to hueco you could almost fit in, then breach black flaky wall using an elegant solution to get established beneath overhang. Here comes fun! Up the steep pockets you go with increasingly difficult moves to finally move L to big orange scoops and finishing jug. 10 bolts.

PAL: Lee Cujes, 2009

Deportiva 20m, 10 Frederick Peak
24 Coola

Starts about 5m R of "Master's Apprentice". Perfect little sport route with some lovely pockets. Start off block, up orange wall on good holds to final tricky bulge. It's a nice grade 21 warm-up to 6th bolt. 7 U-bolts.

PAL: Neil Monteith, 2009

Deportiva 15m, 7 Frederick Peak
26 Kicking and Screaming

Stellar, continuous climbing. 2m R of "Coola". Up to overlap and past orange seam. Tough traverse directly L past second last bolt and up to rooflet (final bolt). Onwards to anchors. 60m rope and 12 draws required.

PAL: Lee Cujes, 2009

Deportiva 27m, 12 Frederick Peak
2010
19 No Free Lunch

8m L of GD. Up jugs on steep wall past a FH to slab. Up thin crack to corner and exit at tree belay.

PAL: Chris Glastonbury & Madoc Sheehan, 2010

Clásica mixta 18m, 1 Frederick Peak
24 That's Not Honey In My Bucket

Up Orange face between "Glory Days DS" and "Damsel in Distress". Tough moves up weakness to series of tough bulges.

PAL: Chris Glastonbury, 2010

Deportiva 26m, 11 Frederick Peak
25 Blood Sucking Scum

Starts 4m R of OoaL. From the words "on belay.. climbing" immediately kick into overdrive for tricky overhung boulder problem. Dyno to the glorious jug on the lip if you dare! Now that you're warmed up, blast your way through enjoyable and sustained jug haul to DRB. Remember to clip the 8 bolts along the way.

Special beta: Fire is found to be highly effective in combating scum, spadge and water.

PAL:

PA: Chris Beric, 2010

Deportiva 12m, 10 Frederick Peak
26 Another One Bites The Dust
1 26 30m
2 25 20m
3 21 35m
4 18 20m

Starts up the ramp in the bowl at the end of The Fairy Garden.

  1. (30m 26) Up steep wall to rest. L across slab to ledge and DBB.

  2. (20m 25) Traverse L past 4 FH then up over bulge and ledge to natural belay.

  3. (35m 21) Move R out of cave past 3 FH on steep wall. Up through roof to slab and ledge. Finish up bottomless corner to ledge.

  4. (20m 18) Climb L on the nose passing a FH. From ledge, up steep featured rock to slab and natural belay at summit.

PAL: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2010

Clásica mixta 110m, 4, 4 Frederick Peak
17 Mira Nova
1 17 18m
2 12 30m
3 13 30m
4 17 50m

Starts at the ramp below the large scoop.

  1. 18m 17 Up via the grey scoop past the 1st FH. Traverse out left and then around the block to easier ground. Up to ledge with tree and DRB.

  2. 30m 12 Up the obvious corner. Go left and up until you reach the large ledge beneath the short headwall.

  3. 30m 13 Walk left along ledge and climb around bulge to gain short steep corner. Up corner and then diagonally left until you reach a small section of orange rock below a steep headwall. Belay at end of orange section.

  4. 50m 17 Climb up the headwall past horizontal breaks, then traverse right to crack. Up and over to reach the large ledge. Traverse right along the set of ledges to reach the top of Master's Apprentice. Escape via the chains.

Be aware of loose rock on pitches 2-4.

PAL: Andrew Rule (1, Mark Gommers & Leia Clark p3 Andrew Rule, 2004

Equip: Steve Ioannou, 2010

Clásica mixta 130m, 4, 8 Frederick Peak
24 Bloodlines

Starting 10m right of Smokescreen in the orange bowl. CLimb up past the first FH and follow the crack. Move left to horizontal and over short headwall to stance. Move up and left to overhanging corner past two more FH's to easier ground and right trending crack to ledge and DRB.

PAL: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2010

Clásica mixta 30m, 5 Frederick Peak
2011
26 Mercyful Fate

The extension to Metalicious via heinous mantle then through the steep roof with intense gastons. An amazing fantasy world hidden above the Fairy Garden canopy.

PA: Neil Monteith, 2009

PAL: Chris Beric, 2011

Deportiva 30m, 13 Frederick Peak
20 Sweet 'n' Sour

10m L of Raptor. Follow the major weakness up the middle of the steep black slab, then move through a small roof to a natural belay. Escape via IT.

PA: Nathan Walmsley & Brett Fforde, 2003

PAL: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2011

Clásica 45m Frederick Peak
15 Grovel

Better than the name suggests. Good gear (medium wires and cams) and interesting climbing up the corner to belay on the big ledge on the L. Escape as for Hoop Pine Crack.

PAL: Gordon Baudino & Madoc Sheehan, 2011

Clásica 20m Frederick Peak
2012
26 Alternate Destination

Shares first 5 bolts of FIFO and then extends R.

Equip: Gareth Llewellin, 2012

PAL: Glen Hayford, 7 Jul 2018

Deportiva 14m, 10 Frederick Peak
22 Too Late, Too Late
1 22 25m
2 22 18m

A fun and exposed sport multi-pitch up the obvious arête.

  1. 25m 22 Start as for FTG. Line of bolts up arete to DBB.

  2. 18m 22 Continue up arete to link with final 3 bolts of Blackened.

PAL: Steve Ioannou (1) & Chris Glastonbury (2), 2012

Deportiva 43m, 2, 12 Frederick Peak
18 Black Gold

The direct start to PB. Starts 15m R of the original start. Up the black slab to ledge and up steep blocky corner on thin gear. Pull over onto easier ground and follow the RH facing corner to a short headwall to PB 2nd pitch belay chains.

PAL: Chris Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2012

Clásica 40m Frederick Peak
23 Mary-Kate

Located above the long ledge above Monkey on a String VS. Obvious wide off-width crack on the L. Punch through the steep hand crack to reach a good rest. Move out R to follow the crack system to a large ledge. Escape via the pine tree to the L.

PAL: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2012

Clásica 20m Frederick Peak
20 Ashley

Located above the long ledge above Monkey on a String VS. 5m R of "Mary-Kate". Up the open corner to reach a rest. The crack then widens to allow hands. Belay at a ledge. Escape as for "Mary-Kate".

PAL: Steve Ioannou & Chris Glastonbury, 2012

Clásica 20m Frederick Peak
17 Path of Destruction

Up blunt arete 3m R of SK.

PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2012

Clásica 15m Frederick Peak
18 Slab King

L trending crack on R of bowl.

PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2012

Clásica 20m Frederick Peak
20 Three Lost Monkeys
1 13 12m
2 19 25m
3 20 27m
4 15 12m

One of the mega classic multi-pitches at Frederick Peak bolted by the three monkeys themselves.

  1. 12m 13 Trend right on 'Gringo Nomad' slab to the right of the orange streak.

  2. 25m 19 Technical & fingery crack into corner.

  3. 27m 20 Up the arête then traverse 3m right to anchor on uber cave ledge.

  4. 12m 15 Up jugs and then left around steep arête.

Deportiva 76m, 4, 12 Frederick Peak
27 Synaesthesia

Starting from the anchors of Cognition, move up L out to the striking arête and straight up the exposed arête to a rest. Edge your way up to a layback, then veer sightly R towards the welcome ledge.

PAL: Chris Glastonbury, 2012

Deportiva 35m, 16 Frederick Peak
25 Arch Enemy

Start up Fairy Dust, then follow arching crack with committing moves on natural pro. Large gear useful. Finish above pod below anchor of Townsvillians.

PAL: Chris Glastonbury, 2012

Clásica mixta 25m, 6 Frederick Peak
28 Supernova

An upper pitch route. Starts at MN's first belay. Up R past four bolts, then a traverse out R onto super exposed overhanging wall. Devious bouldery crux then pumpy jugging up right to top out the wall.

PAL: Steve Ioannou, 2012

Deportiva 25m, 13 Frederick Peak
22 Black Hole

Insidious crack 7m L of PITS. Start at left end of ledge, not that you'd want to...

Clásica 20m Frederick Peak
19 Sabbra Cadabra

Great climbing starting on the first three bolts of TLM pitch 1. Straight up the slab through immaculate orange rock trending right on ledge. Step out left from the sanctuary corner for exposed finish at FEOS anchor. Lower off these anchors or continue to p2 anchor of TLM.

PA: Chris Beric, Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2012

Deportiva 35m, 12 Frederick Peak
24 Mad Agent

An upper pitch route. Starts at MN's first belay. Straight up, tending slightly L and following the bolts on slabby ground which ends up being pretty pumpy and feeling like a trad route towards the top. Great stance to clip anchor.

Subject of one of the biggest hype campaigns in climbing history. DO MAD AGENT!

PA: Chris Beric & Christopher Glastonbury, 2012

PAL: Chris Beric & Chris Glastonbury, 2012

Deportiva 27m, 12 Frederick Peak
24 Mad Agent

An upper pitch route. Starts at MN's first belay. Straight up, tending slightly L and following the bolts on slabby ground which ends up being pretty pumpy and feeling like a trad route towards the top. Great stance to clip anchor.

Subject of one of the biggest hype campaigns in climbing history. DO MAD AGENT!

PA: Chris Beric & Christopher Glastonbury, 2012

PAL: Chris Beric & Chris Glastonbury, 2012

Deportiva 27m, 12 Frederick Peak
29 Transcontinental

Words can't do this route justice. Undeniably a world-class, "you should travel here to do this" route. Starts with stickclipping the bolt a couple of metres right of Citizen Arcane. Technical slab/groove start to the Facebook-famous dyno. Motor up the crack and confront the "press". Seam section to monster pockets. An unforgettable finale to cap things off.

PAL: Lee Cujes, 2012

PA: Lee Cujes, 2012

Deportiva 22m, 9 Frederick Peak
25 Fly In Fly Out

Steep sustained pocket pulling reminiscent of Nowra. Left side of cave finishing out left onto orange wall.

PAL: Gareth Llewellin, 2012

Equip: Neil Monteith, 2012

PA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Deportiva 12m, 5 Frederick Peak

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