Nodo |
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Harvey’s Marbles
World class bouldering! Quality granite boulders some as big as houses. |
The Inner Circle
The Inner Circle contains the most extensively mapped areas at Harvey's Marbles. It was the first area discovered and contains numerous classic problems from this early period of development. In spite of this the area continues to produce classic first ascents, especially in the higher grades. There are currently approximately 600 problems in the Inner Circle from V0 to V10, and many challenging unsent lines. Classics abound and vary dramatically in height, style and grade. If you are visiting only for a short period of time then you may wish to focus on "The Upper Terrace" and "The Lower Terrace" and "The Embankment", where the highest concentration of outstanding bouldering is found. The great thing about the Inner Circle though is that everything is so close and it is possible to tour the different areas picking off classics as you go. |
The Inner Circle |
The Slabs
The Slabs, as the name suggests, is a bunch of easier slab problems with around 14 problems from V0 – V3/V4. 30 seconds walk from the car. The Slabs consist of a row of very low angled boulders and have a few very easy problems, great for kids, and a couple of tougher 0's. The better problems are located on the small boulders just downhill from the end of The Slabs that is furthest from the car. |
The Inner Circle The Slabs |
Overhead Topo |
Boulder 1
The first Boulder when approaching from the car park. |
V0
V0 Traverse
Traverse from right to left. |
Boulder 2
A row of very low angled boulders. |
V1
Slab Sit-Start
Sit-start, then finish up the slab. |
V0
Bridge Problem
Bridge between the two boulders to make your way up the crack. |
V0
Middle Slab Left Variant
Up the ramp just left of “Middle Slab”. |
V0
Middle Slab
The middle of the slab ramp. |
V0
Middle Slab Right Variant
Up the ramp just right of “Middle Slab” |
V0
★ Squeezer
Starting right of the tree, squeeze up the dihedral onto the boulder then continue up the slab. |
V0
★ Side Step
Right foot on the low side pull, mantle up and continue up the slab. |
V3/4
Face Only
Face of boulder only. See also “Face and Arete Variant”. |
V1
Face and Arete Variant
Face of boulder and arete for left hand. See also “Face Only” |
V0
Unnamed problem
Stay well away from the rifle shooting range (http://www.tmrc.com.au/). This is private property and potentially extremely dangerous. |
Boulder 3
The middle boulder which also happens to be the middle-sized boulder. |
V2
Cascade
Face and arete up to a tricky mantle. |
V2
Meltdown
Face between the two aretes with an awkward landing. Watch out for the flake. |
V2
Flight Path
A fun, short, dynamic problem. Up the arete in one big move. Watch out for the flake. |
V0
Rodden Rampage
A nice warm up. |
Boulder 4
The larger of the three boulders with a slight overhang on the backside. |
V0
SRM
A short round mantle. |
V2
Song of Solomon
Middle of the blank slab. |
V1
Taj Mahal
Right-hand end of slab. Stepping left onto big foothold. |
V2
Aladdin Sane
Traverse from the left-hand arete along the lip. Exit before the flake. |
V0
Diamond Dogs
Sit-start on the big flake. |
The Inner Circle |
The Fun Parlour
The beast problems are "Fall From Grace", and "Tumble". Also home to one of the hardest slabs at Harvey's Marbles, "Subtle Manipulation". The first problems you get to are on " The Scoop Boulder". |
The Inner Circle The Fun Parlour |
Overhead Topo |
Boulder 1 |
V0
Hot Scoop
Obvious flake. Also see "Hot Scoop Sit-Start". |
V2
Hot Scoop Sit-Start
Sit-start for "Hot Scoop” |
V1
Scoop Left
From centre of scoop using left arete. |
V3
★★★ Scoop Right
From centre of scoop straight upwards avoiding left-hand arête and the jugs on the right. See also "Lisa V4". |
V4
Lisa V4
Sit-start of Scoop Direct and is even more desperate! |
V2
★ The King Is a Fink
Start as far right of the scoop as possible and traverse left’ topping out left of the scoop, (as for Scoop Left). Can also be done in reverse. |
V4
Shorty
A V4 sit-start on the small boulder behind the scoop boulder, tackling the tiny overhang. |
Boulder 2 |
V0
★ Granulate
1m left of “Slip Toe Ridge”. A short slab. |
V0
★ Slip Toe Ridge
1m left of “Granulate”. Up through bulge. |
V3
Uncle Slabbers Variant
Variant of “Uncle Slabbers”. The Scoop just left without the sidepull. |
V0-
Uncle Slabbers
Centre of face via good in-cut sidepull. |
V1
Not Very Good
Stand start just left of “Present Tense” with high right-hand hold. Not very good. |
V5
★★ Present Tense
Obvious steep crack a few meters right of the above problem. Start sitting with both hands in the crack. Sharp but classic, if you are into that sort of thing. |
V2
★ Present Tense Stand
The standing start to “Present Tense”. |
Boulder 3 |
V0
★ Moo
Pleasant face and a great kiddy problem. |
Boulder 3a
The next boulder right of “Moo” also some short V0 slabs. |
Boulder 4 |
V2
★★★ Fall From Grace
"The Inner Circle" classic problem with lovely technical moves. Up the left leaning vague arête. This is normally done from a sit start, although the stand is no easier. |
V6/7
★★ Arc
Continue "Fall from Grace" left along the slopey lip till you reach the other arete and mantle here. |
V1
★ Deception
Slabby arete and face just left of block. Good. |
V1
★ Deception Variant
A variant of “Deception”. Sit-start. Even better! |
V2
Righty Tighty Stand Start
Up small block. |
V2
★ Righty Tighty
Variant of "Righty Tighty Stand Start" Sit-start the right-hand side of the block and up. |
V4
★★ Gone In 15 Seconds
The steep flake and arête on the uphill face, starting just right of the tree. (Tree no longer standing) |
V5
Gone In 60 Seconds
The sit-start of "Gone In 15 Seconds" adds some interesting moves. |
V2
★★ Lumberjack
The dead rotting tree was removed after it half fell down, creating a dangerous hazard for climbers but also exposing a new face on the boulder. Standing start off opposing sidepulls, move directly up the vague arete on side-pulls and crimps to a blank top-out. |
V7
★ Subtle Manipulation
The high slab on the opposite side of “Fall From Grace”. Work through the low scoop and then up onto a balancy top. |
V8
Subtle Manipulation Sit
Add the sit-start, with the lower of the two left-hand sidepulls and a right-hand sidepull barely off the ground, for a tough, thin and sustained problem. |
V3
Slip Slop Slap
Wall just to the right of “Subtle Manipulation” starting with left-hand on high small crimp and right-hand on lower sidepull. |
V7
Little Lefties
A reference to the holds rather than a swipe at any particular political preference! Sit-start off the block (or crouched start) into above problem. Starts with low right-hand sidepull. Technical and crimpy. |
Boulder 4a
When facing “Fall From Grace”, there is a small boulder 10m behind you with two little V3 sit-starts. |
V3
★ The Wrong Way
Sit-start on the right-hand arête. |
V3
The Other Way
Sit-start in the middle at obvious rail. |
V4/5
The Hard Way
Links the sit-start of “The Other Way”, right into the start of “The Wrong Way” via a tough thin traverse, and adds a couple of grades. |
Boulder 5 has some short sit starts at about V2/3 & and V5 "Unconventional Means".
Boulder 5 has some short sit starts at about V2/3 & and V5 "Unconventional Means". |
V5
★★ Unconventional Means
Sit-start on right arête, and then traverse left along the lip, (not using obvious jug over the top), continuing around the left-hand arête and mantle just around the corner. |
V2/3
★ Short Sit-Start No.1
Right-hand tiny arête. |
V2/3
Short Sit-Start No.2
in the middle of the overhung face using horizontal break. |
Mushroom shaped boulder with a few problems, most notably “the Mushroom Dyno”.
Mushroom shaped boulder with a few problems, most notably “the Mushroom Dyno”. |
V1
★ Timeout
Steep slopey layback flake up crumbly boulder that's a nice breather from the crimps. Best from a crouched start. |
V0
★ Delicat
Slab with steep start on back end of the boulder. Also see "Delicat Variant". |
V1
Delicat Variant
Variant of "Delicat". Start to the right off the low jug. |
V3
★ Magic Mushrooms
Starts at "Delicat", on the mushroom boulder. Move up and diagonally left, hanging off the very vague arête. Big move to reach the slopey dish out left and then mantle. |
V4
Magic Mushrooms Variant
An alternative start to "Magic Mushrooms". Start as for “Delicat” and traverse left into “Magic Mushrooms”. |
V7
★ The Mushroom Dyno
Start just to the right of “Timeout”, with both hands using the small roof as an undercling. Pull on and throw up and left for the flake and finish up this. |
Boulder 6a
When facing “Delicat” on Boulder 6 - “The Mushroom Boulder”, there is a slabby arete behind you and downhill a few meters. |
V5
Finnicky Finishes
Starting from left-hand on the big low jug, and right-hand on sidepull. |
Boulder 7 |
V1
★★ The Ashes
Arete just left of “Spiderman”. Great. |
V1
★ Spiderman
Centre of face starting off obvious rock, moving right to finish. |
V3
★ Spiderman Variant 1
“Spiderman” started directly under the finishing holds. |
V2
Spiderman Variant 2
Linked with “The Ashes”. |
V3
★ Spiderman Variant 3
Mantle straight above the block, avoiding the jugs out left and right. |
V1
★ Earthling
Face just to the right of “Beached Whale”. |
V2
★ Beached Whale
Arete just to the left of ”Earthling” with tricky moves toward the top. |
V4
★★ Heathen
Traverse right from “Beached Whale”’ around “The Ashes” arête to the end of the boulder and up the easy arete. Stay quite low during the traverse. |
Boulder 8 |
V3
★★ Tumble
Another excellent technical arete starting from lowest level at the ground. |
V3
Blame Canada
Take the Tumble arete from the right-hand side. Bad landing. |
V1
Left Hand Wall of Tumble
1.5m left of Tumble. Up to join vague arete (right-hand side of scoop). |
V0
★ Scoop Going R
Into the scoop anyway you want and then move right to exit. A little spooky. |
V1
★ Scoop Centre
Stay well away from the rifle shooting range (http://www.tmrc.com.au/). This is private property and potentially extremely dangerous. |
V0
★ Scoop Going Direct
Also a little spooky. Up the middle of the scoop. Can use the left-hand arête. |
V0
Easy Crack
Fun. |
V4
★★ S & M Slab
Short little blank slab about 2m left of Easy Crack. Can be done direct or going left. |
V0-
Thuggy
Stay well away from the rifle shooting range (http://www.tmrc.com.au/). This is private property and potentially extremely dangerous. |
Kids Boulder Problems |