Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mount Frankland Northern Slabs | |||||
15 | Flash
| 20m | |||
18 | Rough Justice
FA was a solo. Go up obvious line of weakness at the left end of slab and right of Flash. Crux is at half height where weakness blanks out and delicate climbing on crystals is required. PA: B. Aikman, 1998 | 25m | |||
20 | Big Boys Rule
FA was a solo. Start at small cairn 10m left of drainage line between Rough Justice and Leaves in the Gutter. Climb steepening wall up pockets to gain left trending pocketed seam. Crux is steep section at 10m. PA: B. Aikman, 1998 | 27m | |||
11 | ★ Leaves in the Gutter
| 50m | |||
8 | ★ Burning Desires
| 50m | |||
11 | Walking The Plank
| 50m | |||
9 | ★ Big Head
| 30m | |||
11 | This Bites
| 30m | |||
23 | ★ Ashes to Ashes
The obvious and quite desperate finger to fist jamming crack on the small wall up right of the moss-streaked slab. PA: D. Wagland, 1991 | 15m | |||
Mount Frankland The Elephant | |||||
18 | ★ Purveyors of Matters Large and Small for the Masses
Start 15m left of Hannibal.
PA: Matt Rosser & Jim Truscott, 2004 | 77m, 2, 11 | |||
19 | Saracen
As for Hannibal to the third bolt, then left and up the crack on the side of the elephant's trunk and head. | 82m, 3, 3 | |||
20 | ★★★ Hannibal
An excellent and sustained climb straight up the middle of the trunk. Protected with six bolts (hangers needed), wires and cams. A Western Australian classic and a right of passage for all slab connoisseurs. Tricky move off the ground then cruise up past slots (medium cams) before heading up the trunk proper. A bit run out before the anchor but if you made it that far you will be fine on the runout.
PA: G. Philips & S. Digwood, 1991 | 70m, 2, 6 | |||
20 | ★ Lector Connector
This is a variation to the finish of Hannibal. It has a longer first pitch and a great position up the side of the 'trunk'.
PA: Mark Thake & Jeremy Scott, 2007 | 80m, 2, 9 | |||
16 | Trick or Treat
Better than it looks! Starts about 15m right of Hannibal below a series of water pockets.
PA: G. Phillips & S. Digwood, 1991 | 90m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★ Where Eagles Dare
Water streak 10m right of Trick or Treat. Need plates for 8 bolts, belays are U-bolts. Clips can be exciting
PA: M. Tiller & J. Siamos, 1997 | 90m, 3, 8 | |||
17 | ★★ Granitarium
Nice slab climbing with carrot bolts and a few medium cams. Starts 20m right of Where Eagles Dare and 30m left of Dream Weaver. First pitch is the only good one. Hangers required.
PA: R. Weiter & D. Rao, 2010 | 85m, 3, 6 | |||
Mount Frankland Lower Slab | |||||
16 | ★★ Dream Weaver
A well protected, sustained and enjoyable face. Start up black slab 10m L of Ian's Lost Chance. Bolts (hangers required) plus medium nuts and cams.
Need 8 bolt plates and 9 draws plus nuts. Descent note: Can be done with a 60m rope, although last rap is 31m . Otherwise walk to top of mountain. PA: R. Weiter & D. Pantic, 2003 | 95m, 3, 8 | |||
15 | Ian's Lost Chance
PA: K. Vos & J. Hurn, 1992 | 90m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Stoned Alone
Start on low-angled slab below the gully of Ian's Lost Chance. Need 9 bolt plates and 10 draws.
Descend as Dream Weaver. PA: R. Weiter & N. Gledhill, 2010 | 80m, 2, 10 | |||
19 | ★★ Well Stoned
PA: R. Weiter, H. Carrad & J. Iles, 2012 | 75m, 2, 9 | |||
14 | ★ Lambs To The Slaughter
Start below the gully of 'Ian's Lost Chance' as for Stoned Alone. R-trending diagonal slab climbing formed by a dyke crossing the lower slab up to The Terrace. 2 hangers. 3rd bolt is a carrot shared with Free Burma. When you clip that keep going right with your feet on the dike. PA: M. Gidding & D. Moyses, 1991 | 50m, 3 | |||
16 | ★ Free Burma
1
16
48m
2
14
27m
3
10
50m
4
4
35m
Probably the longest route possible at Mount Frankland. The first pitch is a good access route to The Terrace.
PA: D. Moyses, M. Gidding, D. Wagland, G. Phillips & K. Langley, 1991 | 160m, 4, 8 | |||
18 | ★ Free Willy
Start 5m right of Free Burma. Very well protected. 11 bolts (hangers needed). Lower off 2m right of Free Burma lower-offs. PA: R. Weiter, H. Carrad & J. Iles, 2012 | 38m, 11 | |||
17 | ★ Burmese Tiger
Start 15m R of Free Burma. 10 bolts (hangers required). PA: R. Weiter & D. Rao, 2009 | 38m, 10 | |||
16 | ★ Purring Pussies
he white water streak 10m R of Burmese Tiger. 9 bolts (hangers required. Can be mossy and wet. PA: R. Weiter & D. Rao, 2009 | 36m, 9 | |||
26 | Je suis un gros lard
Walk past main wall for a further 2 mins till you are bellow an obvious roof flake 20m above path. Gear through roof, then 3 bolts. PA: E. Mandyczewsky, 1999 | 3 | |||
Mount Frankland The Terrace | |||||
18 | ★ Three Sheep Twice a Day
A great way to reach the summit from The Terrace.
PA: A. Rokich & R. Tyson, 1991 | 95m, 3, 5 | |||
21 | ★ Prescription Pills
As for 'Three Sheep Twice a Day' to its second bolt, then trend right up a poorly-protected seam. Finish as for Butter Fingers. PA: S. Richardson & T. Massiah, 1992 | 35m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Butter Fingers
Fine face climbing up past 3 bolts to medium cams in a groove/flake where the difficultly eases. It is possible to clip a 4th bolt after the cams if you want to your right, before running it out to on Wreckage Ledge. Traverse into the line from the left as the start is undercut. Holds can be tricky to spot but they are there and nice and positive. Probably a grade 21 tick if you do it ground up without knowing where the holds are. 3rd bolt was a rusty galv expansion, but replaced in Dec 2023 with a stainless expansion and new hanger. PA: A. Rokich & A. Miller, 1991 | 35m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ Sneak up and Pounce
Midway between Butter Fingers and Silence of the Cams is a new independant line. Great climbing, clean rock (despite the lichen/drip line) and memorable moves. Boulder up to the first bolt, suck in your belly and sneak carefully left. Up and then pounce back right (crux) and up to a good stance. A few more moves and the angle eases and you can romp home to Wreckage Ledge. Lots of fun. Could be 23. Who knows. PA: Neil Gledhill & Kate Swain, 1 Dic | 35m, 6 | |||
19 | ★★★ Silence of the Cams
If you are getting bored of slab climbing. Left-leaning crack finishing on the Wreckage Ledge. PA: A. Rokich & S. Rewell, 1991 | 35m | |||
25 | Inshallah
Start 10m right of 'Silence of the Cams' below right hand end of horizontal crack. Up to carrot and follow crack with gear. Up runnel to rap anchors. PA: E. Mandyczewsky, 1999 | 22m, 5 | |||
27 | ★ Circle of Trust
On the section of blank wall between Silence of the Cams and Dickheads and Dynosaurs (directly below Skippy Goes Splat). Start up Inshallah to second bolt and head straight up wall on Fixe bolts. Technical, thin and awesome rock. Lower of leaver biner or continue to anchor above Inshallah. PA: E. Mandyczewsky, 1999 | 22m | |||
19 | ★ What Would You Rather...?
Starts 7m right of Drop Bears Garden. Climb the face and water runnel with 5 P-bolts. Can use a #3 cam. Finish on lower-offs for start of Frankenstein and Dreaded Head. A good approach pitch to Frankenstein and Dead Head. PA: M. Willson & E. Mandyczewsky, 2006 | 15m, 5 | |||
Open project
5m left of Dickheads and Dynosaurs and could go at grade 29 or 30. Up Fixe bolts and finish on rap chains on ledge. Equip: E. Mandyczewsky, 2010 | |||||
Mount Frankland Wreckage Ledge | |||||
16 | Fuzzy Bear
The obvious corner on the right side of Wreckage Ledge. Finish on upper slab. | 50m | |||
21 | ★★ Crawling From The Wreckage
A bit different to the other Mount Frankland climbing!
PA: D. Wagland & B. Fuster, 1991 | 55m, 2, 3 | |||
Mount Frankland The Head Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Quite Frankly
Start from a semi-hanging belay beneath large roof. Up through the roof on big holds and climb face above. PA: S. Richardson & A. Rokich, 1992 | 30m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ Skippy Goes Splat
A crag classic. Exposed and juggy up the obvious crack system 3m right of Quite Frankly. Set up hanging belay under overhanging blocks below crack.
PA: A. Rokich & D. Moyses, 1991 | 35m, 2 | |||
24 | ★★ Dread Head
Great climb! From belay, move up and left 3m and blast up wall past 3 bolts (last bolt needs a hanger) and natural gear. Finish on large flake and move right to belay chain and lower off. PA: S. Richardson, 1992 | 25m, 3 | |||
25 | ★★★ Frankenstein
Absolutely brilliant! Climb the slightly overhanging headwall up cracks, through scoops and over the roof to finish at lower-off chains. Well protected with 5 bolts and natural gear. PA: S. Richardson, 1992 | 25m, 5 | |||
16 | Drop Bears Garden
The obvious mossy corner on the right side of The Terrace.
PA: A. Rokich & D. Moyses, 1991 | 50m, 2 | |||
Mount Frankland Main Face | |||||
21 | ★★★ Dickheads and Dynosaurs
Enjoyable and sustained slab climbing. 10 ring bolts and a couple of large cams for the overlaps. PA: S. Richardson & A. Rokich, 1992 | 45m, 10 | |||
22 | ★★★ At the Corner
A sustained and superb climb starting at small left facing corner. Climb past 8 bolts and various natural gear. #4 friend after second bolt is useful. PA: G. Brysland & I. Wareing, 1992 | 45m, 8 | |||
20 | ★★ Uncle Gobby
Fine moves up wall. Start 5m right of At the Corner. Natural gear + 3 bolts. #4 friend useful in overlap protecting final moves. PA: K. Fleming & G. Brysland, 1992 | 45m, 3 | |||
18 | ★★ Three Card Trick
Start on left side of dark streak, 6m right of Uncle Goby and climb the right-facing corner, moving left then back right to vague, vertical dyke. PA: G. Brysland, I. Arnaud & M. Adams, 1991 | 45m, 5 | |||
23 | ★ Dreadless
Hard start, and easy finish. Small wires + 4 bolts. PA: S. Richardson, M. Gidding & A. Rokich, 1992 | 45m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★★ Cowlick
Superb face climbing. Small edges and long moves past the first 2 bolts make this climb excellent. The crux is pulling through the final overlap. PA: A. Rokich & S. Enne, 1991 | 45m, 6 | |||
20 | ★★ Jugular
Similar, but slightly easier than Cowlick. A flake has gone missing near second bolt, making climb considerably more difficult. PA: A. Rokich & S. Enne, 1991 | 45m, 5 | |||
18 | ★★★ Thieves Like The Sun
Well protected and good fun. Starts 10m right of Jugular where it is easy to step on the wall. The climb trends left past 7 FHs and some natural gear. Same finish as Jugular once overlap is reached. Traverse 15m right to lower-offs. PA: R. Wall & G. Brysland, 1992 | 45m, 8 | |||
18 | ★★ Three is the Key
A popular route as it is relatively sustained and a little run out. A steep bouldery start about 3m right of Thieves Like The Sun. PA: S. Enne & A. Rokich, 1991 | 35m, 6 | |||
19 | ★★ Stolen Generation
This route is the rightmost route on the Main Face.
PA: C. Jones & R. Wall, 2003 | 44m, 2, 4 | |||
15 | ★ Old Gnarly
The rightward diagonal crack on the boulder on the ledge above Jugular. A nice finishing pitch for the Main Face climbs.. PA: D. Wagland, D. Moyses, S. Enne, M. Gidding & A. Rokich, 1991 | 10m | |||
Thompson's Cove The Terrace | |||||
5 | Laid Back
The easy way to the top.... and bottom | 5m | |||
23 | Top Rope Slab
The blank face requiring pure friction. | 7m | |||
14 | ★ Private Eye
Short but pleasant line up the obvious clean crack in the low angled corner. PA: A. Rokich & R. Campbell, 1990 | 7m | |||
17 | Where is the Playgound Susie?
The left trending, shallow groove line 10 m left of Private Eye. Minimum pro, serious lead. PA: G. Brysland & R. Campbell, 1990 | 7m | |||
17 | ★ Swinging Detectives
The thin, left trending crack line. Follow crack left and finish up vertical crack. Well protected. PA: R. Campbell & I. Arnaud, 1990 | 10m | |||
12 | ★ Lost and Found
The corner/crack. Sometimes wet. PA: C. Taylor & R. Campbell, 1990 | 12m | |||
22 | ★★★ Under Cover
Excellent face climbing on delicate holds following line of FH. PA: S. Aegerter, 1996 | 14m, 5 | |||
Thompson's Cove Cinema Wall | |||||
24 | ★★ Picture Show
Climb up rightward leaning crack on right side of Cinema Wall. Start left of small roof and up to horizontal break. Climb seam past 2 bolts and then arete to finish. PAL: S. Richardson, 1996 | 20m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★ Hi-Wire
The thin line running right midway from Hey Joe crack. PAL: G. Brysland, 1990 | 20m | |||
18 | ★★★ Hey Joe
The crag classic! Climb corner crack to sustained laybacking and jamming. Well protected PAL: S. Rewell & R. Campbell, 1990 | 20m | |||
26 | ★★★ Golden Vein
Another classic route following a technical golden vein of fixed hangers. Beware, bolts may be rusted. There are visible rust stains coming out of bolts down rock. May need to be re-bolted, PAL: S. Richardson, 1996 | 25m, 6 | |||
18 | ★★ Totally Total
The crack/flake line at left edge of Cinema Wall. PAL: G. Brysland & A. Rokich, 1990 | 20m | |||
Thompson's Cove Phoenix Walls | |||||
20 | Cheezgrater
Find the big obvious crack next to a very pointy boulder on the west facing cliff. It doesn't look overhung, but it is. It looks smooth, but it isn't. Just follow crack until you start to bleed, Continue to loose blood, and when you can't possibly loose any more blood, continue until you reach the top. Tape recommended. PA: A. Pitchford, 1991 | 20m | |||
15 | By the Time We Get to Phoenix
Starts about 15 m left of Cheezgrater. Climb short chimney, 3 m right of obvious corner crack. Move right and follow the vanishing crack line to slabby finish. PA: G. Brysland & I. Arnaud, 1990 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Zeepaard
Start 2m left of chimney and climb face, past four bolts to roof and go right to top out. PA: S. Aegerter, 1996 | 15m, 4 | |||
24 | ★★ Zeepaard Direct
Start as for Zeepaard, but go straight over the roof directly. PAL: S. Aegerter, 1996 | 15m, 4 | |||
17 | Cheap Trick
The lay back corner crack on the left of the low angled descent slab. PA: M. Sales, 1991 | 7m | |||
14 | Tweeky
The short lay back corner crack in the back left hand side of the mini amphitheatre PA: R. Campbell & A. Rokich, 1990 | 5m | |||
19 | ★ Squeaky
The face and thin crack cline PA: A. Rokich & R. Campbell, 1990 | 6m | |||
17 | Squiggle
The left hand corner crack PA: A. Rokich & R. Campbell, 1990 | 6m | |||
14 | Wiggley
The short crack 6 m left of Squiggle. PA: R. Campbell & A. Rokich, 1990 | 6m | |||
Mount Roe | |||||
21 | Dojo
A place you go to practice being the best person you can be. Start about 35 metres up from the end of the ramp on top of two small blocks. 7BR to DBB. Steeper than it looks but there are intermittent good holds and edges. Climb gingerly up right to FB then straight up on small edges and high steps with much friction work. Delicate move over the horizontal break, particularly if your heart is pumping. Steep fractioning up the final runnel. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 27 Dec 07 https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mount-roe-another-chapter-in-the-dangerous-book-for-boya-boys/ | 25m | |||
21 | Smiles, Scars and Tears
This route is a real ball tearer. Start at the base of the overhung crack just up from the end of the ramp. 6BR to DBB. Climb strongly up placing a1½ and then a 2½ Friend in the crack. Climb further up the crack again into the runnel with strong moves to clip the FB in the vertical runnel. Rock into the runnel with string moves. Surprisingly good friction in the runnel to gain the third bolt. Rising right traverse across the slab and wall above with really pleasant friction work. M. Rosser 27 Dec 07 https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mount-roe-another-chapter-in-the-dangerous-book-for-boya-boys/ | 30m | |||
19 | Crossing the Rubicon
A dance of seduction and rejection. 5BR to DBB. (1) 7m 15. Start at the very end of the ramp. Hand and foot traverse right and surmount the large flake to belay on a BR and large Friends. Ignore the bolt below which is for the ground up ascent to come. (2) 20m 19. Delicately up, smearing most of the way. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 28 Dec 07 https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mount-roe-another-chapter-in-the-dangerous-book-for-boya-boys/ | 30m | |||
19 | The Home of the Black Dog
| 30m | |||
24 | Awesome and Infamous
| 40m | |||
19 | No Room in the Freezer
| 25m | |||
Southern Summit - West Face Project
| |||||
Southern Summit - East Face Project 1
Crack | |||||
Southern Summit - East Face Project 2
Another crack | |||||
17 | West Climb
| 33m | |||
15 | Little Tree Loves Me
pitch one 40m vertually non existant pro start at left of base camp boulder at right trending crack and climb strait up past small shrub(ground fall danger i slung the small shrub for some phycolgical value) to belay on very big ledge on some small boulders at left end of upper face. scramble to right end of upper face… pitch 2 15m,grade 12 better pro up crack and pockets to traverse right to belay at small ledge with bouler on… pitch 3 25m scramble to summit heading left along upper face ridge solo https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mount-roe/ PA: Steve Bontes, 2003 | 75m | |||
17 | Judgement Day Panic Room
| 55m | |||
Project
Start as for JDPR and head up the RHS side of the bowl. | |||||
Project
The series of pockets to the left of NPFGM. | |||||
23 | ★★★ No Place for Girlie Men
It’s physical; you know that you have been climbing and it goes up with a well defined crux. It has all the elements of a great climb in a fantastic wilderness setting (1) 35m 23. Start at the base of the vertical flake at the LHE of the slanting cave opposite the fireplace. Traverse right after the 3rd BR and delicately up to gain the powerful under cling just above the 5th BR; from where you reach up high to the right to gain a positive edge. 7BR and 2-3 larger wires to BB and 3½ Friend. (2) 25m 15. Continue up with 3BR to belay on blocks. (3)40m 23/24. To be continued up the North Summit. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 27 Mar 05 | 100m | |||
22 | Roe Highway
| 65m | |||
18 | Boya Boys Bash Bolts
| 70m | |||
16 | Trust Me, I’m a Cartographer
| 55m | |||
19 | Paradise is in the Shadow of Swords
| 70m | |||
18 | Roe Couloir
| 85m | |||
18 | Carrots are a Girl’s Best Friend
| 60m | |||
15 | Adventure School
| 45m | |||
19 | Icarus Rescues Adonis
| 40m | |||
18 | Screaming Grog Pockets
| 45m | |||
20 | We Own the Beach; Charlie Don’t Surf
| 70m | |||
18 | Unnamed Slab
| 45m |