Squeaky Beach Guide

Step across creek as for Just the tip. Move up and left to juggy holds 4 to 5 metres up.

Start on the decent juggy crimp on the lip and move up and right along the lip, topping out on the Apex of the boulder.

Step across creek onto small foothold. Straight up using small crimps avoiding jugs on the left and Frontal Lobotomy to the right

Kneel start on low flake/foothold, climb up nice pinch holds, avoid left flake as it is a bit hollow sounding.

If facing 'Squeak Crack', heads up the back of the boulder on your right. Sit start low on flake, climb enormous jugs.

Has almost certainly been done before, name made up for recording.

Short but steep overhang. Start seated (or crouched if short) with 1 hand on the lip and one hand on the sidepull/undercling. Punch up, traverse right onto good holds and mantel.

Harder sit project is available. Start two hands on sidepull/undercling.

Sit Start matched in the leftward-facing juggy hole in the middle of the overhang. Punch up to the lip and mantle.

Sit-Start holding the pocket on the left and pebble on the right as for Squeak My Nipples. Move to protruding good hold then move left on small holds and onto left side face using small crimp. from here big move up to pocket with left and finish. Arete is out below final pocket.

Sit-Start holding the pocket on the left and pebble on the right.

Flying dyno onto top

Located on a large boulder on the South-East end of the beach, with an obvious seam.

Start up the flake/seam (crux) onto a slab, then up the seam above (easier on the left).

Most likely a repeat.

Located on a large boulder on the South-East end of the beach, with an obvious seam.

Start off the block to the left of the seam, trend up and right(crossing the seam) to slabby topout.

Probably a repeat.

Fun Mantle. sit start on good holds in the middle of the boulder. pull up and mantle over.

Sit start with hands on the bottom edge. Go up to crack and incut next to the crack before topping out to the right.

SDS as for Mouse Trap. Traverse diagonally left making sure to use the slopers before heading to the slot. From the slot, move further left to an easy top out.

Nice moves on obvious holds. Start standing on the lowest rail and move rightward on jugs then bust out for the great sidepull. Mantel from here.

An extension can be done which involves another big move to a sharp pocket. Probably goes at a slightly harder grade.

An interesting and somewhat desperate mantel. Start standing with hands matched on the lowest part of the juggy hold. Find a way to mantel.

How could you realistically compete? Start as for "Slaughterfish" but move directly up.

The treachery of the sea is evergrowing... On the back of the "Slaughterfish" boulder, stand-start with hands matched on the lowest rail. Bust up and over.

Might be wet in high tide / high swell.

Start with left hand in pocket and right in crimp slot. Blocks below main face are out. May be wet in high tide.

Start matched on the low undercling at the lowest point on the boulder. Move up to the lip and traverse the lip rightwards until topping out on the highest corner (traverse 3 sides of the boulder).

Slab Highball - RH on the Upward facing knob (LH any available hold) and smear feet to start. Head straight up and top out - be wary as good holds become scarce towards the top.

Step on obvious pebbles heading out left towards arete then up.

An alright line. Good view

Start low in the crack matched, shimmy up, balance move to the right, with reaching pull on sloppers then slow top out

Start with left hand on arete pinch and right on choice of pebble ~2 meters up the boulder. Find your balance then traverse left and up the arete.

Sit start on the arete. High left hand on the sloper with right hand crimp. Go straight up. Bailing to the juggy cave to the right makes it bit easier.

LH starting on the decent RH of Hug me. Stand start and go straight up

Start as for Big Red. Traverse right and go up using better holds.

Sit start. Head straight up the blunt arete.

Circles the boulder endlessly