Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Vereker Tors Lower Vereker Tors | |||||
17 | Rug Rats
Detached flake up left from Ankle Biters, finishing up face PA: Geoff Butcher & Chris Lawrence, 1993 | 12m | |||
19 | I'd Rather Be Eating
Nondescript. The right-leaning finger-crack and easy climb above. PA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1988 | 15m | |||
12 | Ankle Biters
Tor uphill and right of Rug Rats. Hard start in corner to first bolt. Move right past second bolt. PA: Geoff Butcher & Graeme Hoxley, 1993 | 12m | |||
19 | Billy Lids
As for Ankle Biters but move left past top bolt. PA: Geoff Butcher & Graeme Hoxley, 1993 | 12m | |||
17 | Smoke Detector
Climb the corner just right of Billy Lids to horizontal crack. Move right around the corner to join The Doctor. PA: Geoff Butcher & Graeme Hoxley, 1993 | 11m | |||
5 | The Doctor
Good holds up the front of the tor right of Smoke Detector. PA: Geoff Butcher & Graeme Hoxley, 1993 | 12m | |||
18 | If I Were a Butterfly
Quite good. About 40m right around the hillside from I'd Rather Be Eating and about 15m uphill from the track is a narrow slab leaning on another boulder. Climb the narrow slab, finishing on amazing jugs. PA: Melanie Taws & James McIntosh, 1988 | 15m | |||
Tongue Point Causeway Area | |||||
18 | Causeway Corner
'Deep corner with double cracks which can be seen from far end of Tongue Point track down left on opposite side of causeway. Right corner-crack, then step left below overhanging block (wide crack goes straight up here). Layback left-leading crack (crux)' PA: Russ Crow & Dak Karla, 1996 | 14m | |||
14 | Causeway Flake
'Shallow corner-crack a few metres right of Causeway Corner to right leading flake' PA: Russ Crow & Dak Karla, 1996 | 12m | |||
Tongue Point Main Wall | |||||
18 | Monster On A Leash
'"Leave well alone" - even worse than it looks! (Previously known as The Ultimate Piece of Pox.) The left-most line on the main section of the cliff (about 20m left of Forked Tongue, with a dank chimney in between). A seeping, flared black groove to gritty cracks through headwall to finish.' PA: Russ Crow & Simon Mentz, 1996 | 25m | |||
21 | Forked Tongue
'Thin crack at far left end of cliff immediately right of wide, black crack, joining this at the top' PA: Edwin Young & Kate Hilton, 1996 | 15m | |||
24 | Lick It Up
'Right line on smooth face on left side of cliff. Short corner, then crack. Right across face to another crack' PA: Peter Woolford & Graeme Owers, 1996 | 27m | |||
23 | All I Want Is A Rock 'n' Roll Girl
'Directly up series of leaning, wide cracks' PA: Peter Woolford, 1996 | 25m | |||
18 | Mother-In-Law's Tongue
'Rather harsh. Line of least resistance up series of leaning, wide cracks.' PA: Simon Mentz & Simon Barnaby, 1996 | 25m | |||
22 | Native Tongue
'Sustained hand-jamming right of Mother-In-Law's Tongue, starting as for Saliva. Tricky final move through summit block.' PA: simon barnaby & simon mentz, 1996 | 30m | |||
19 | Saliva
'Prominent, white flake/pillar (reached by way of short crack), then step round right. Cracks, wall.' PA: Geoff Butcher & Chris Lawrence, 1993 | 25m | |||
21 | Slag Sisters
'Up Saliva's crack and flake/pillar, then step left to hanging crack. Step back right to finish as for Saliva.' PA: Kate Hilton, Geoff Butcher, Glenn Tempest & Nicola Woolford, 1996 | 25m | |||
20 | ★ Go With The Flow
'Delightful finger-cracks when dry, but often seeping. The direct black crack system just right of a recessed section of cliff (and 3m right of Foxy Lady), to belay under the large block on top. Finish up rightwards, or better, across left.' PA: Russ Crow & Simon Mentz, 1996 | 25m | |||
24 | Foxy Lady
'Middle thin crack on main wall starting as for Hammerhead.' PA: Peter Woolford, George Mallory & Glenn Tempest, 1996 | 20m | |||
25 | Hammerhead
'Middle thin crack with hard crux at half-height." PA: Simon Mentz & Glenn Tempest, 1996 | 20m | |||
23 | I'm A Believer
'Right crack with technical finish up incipient seams.' PA: Simon Mentz, George Mallory, Glenn Tempest & Nicola Woolford, 1996 | 20m | |||
21 | Tungsten Tips
'Wall right of I'm A Believer. 2 BRs.' PA: Kate Hilton, Simon Mentz & Glenn Tempest, 1996 | 18m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★ Sunsecrets
Superb balancy face-climbing up the brown streak midway between Tungsten Tips and Tongue Tied (the left-leaning seams at the right end of this best, main section of the cliff). Step off large boulder opposite pinnacle, to BR and bomber #3 Rock. Up (crux) to edge and FH, slightly rightish to finish as for Tongue Tide's upper cracks.' PA: Russ Crow & Dak Karla, 1996 | 18m, 1 | |||
18 | Tongue Tide
'Arete to diagonal 2m right of Tungsten Tips.' PA: Geoff Butcher & Chris Lawrence, 1993 | 10m | |||
10 | Mallory's Route
'Right-leaning, wide crack right of Tongue Tide. Variant by way of thin crack on white arete is better (grade 14).' PA: George & George Mallory, 1996 | 20m | |||
21 | The Curse
'From oozing, black mank 2m left of Kate's Climb weave up wall left of that route to vegetated exit.' PA: Simon Mentz & Russell Crow, 1996 | 30m | |||
17 | Kate's Climb
'Wall, flake directly below abseil point. Watch for loose rock.' PA: Kate Hilton & Nicola Woolford, 1996 | 30m | |||
Tongue Point Main Wall Pinnacle | |||||
20 | French Kisses
The deep crack and arete on the west side of the pinnacle, then the flake-crack up high. PA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 1994 PAL: Simon Mentz, 1996 | 18m | |||
23 | Pom on the Prom
Up pillar to roof of detached boulder. Out roof to surmount headwall on thin flake. PA: Nick Hancock | ||||
14 | Lipstick
The east side of the pinnacle. Scramble down to a crackline to start. Up crack to ledges and take flakes up the top boulder. PA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, Rhyl Shaw, Sandy & Glenn Tempest, 1994 | 15m | |||
Tongue Point Cleopatras Zawn | |||||
18 | Chocolate Reaction
'Right-leaning crack at entrance and on left wall' PA: Peter Woolford, Andrew Eccleshaw & Michelle Pepi, 1998 | 10m | |||
12 | In the Nude
'Line with horizontal breaks 2m right of easy arete. In the Nude is 5m left of Chocolate Reaction and directly below right end of Irish Wake Wall' PA: Andrew Eccleshaw, Michelle Pepi & Peter Woolford, 1998 | 10m | |||
Tongue Point Sea Dream Zawn | |||||
12 | Take One
'On the right side of a buttress forming the left-hand end of the large sloping midway shelf. Takes the twin off-width vertical cracks starting from a smaller shelf, to a steeper finish.' PA: Freddo Dirk & Zenton Chorny, 1996 | 12m | |||
10 | Take Two
'From the left-hand (outer) end of the large shelf take a vertical crack to a distinct, left-leaning flake/ledge. Left across this to finish at the top of Take One.' PA: Zenton Chorny & Freddo Dirk, 1996 | 10m | |||
10 | Take Three
'The vertical crackline 2m right of Take Two, starting from the same ledge.' PA: Zenton Chorny & Freddo Dirk, 1996 | 8m | |||
3 | Take Four
'The easy, left-leading ramp across this little face, starting from about midway on the sloping ledge.' PA: Freddo Dirk & Zenton Chorny, 1996 | 8m | |||
12 | Take Five
'Scramble or abseil to platform and corner at water-level. Starting beneath, and at the right-hand of the sloping ledge.'
PA: Freddo Dirk & Zenton Chorny, 1996 | 25m | |||
14 | Hydroepiphobia
'"The fear of epics involving water". Go to the base of the zawn, as for Take Five, then scramble along the ledge into the zawn's dank base to a little right-facing corner deep within. Climb the corner/crack through a rooflet, continuing up crack to ledges PA: Russ Crow & Nicole Seckinger, 1998 | 20m | |||
16 | Escapism
'The vertical crack through brown rock 2m right of Hydroepiphobia's corner. Climb the crack to a ledge, then the wider crack just right to the top (finishes directly opposite the upper corner of The Corridor of Uncertainty on the other wall).' PA: Peter Woolford, 1996 | 20m | |||
15 | ★★ The Corridor of Uncertainity
'A fine adventure. The obvious line across the southern face. Abseil over the block down black streak to belay at the little pedestal in the lower corner. up the corner, then follow traverse-line left across horizontal flakes (ignoring the rising left-leading cracks) to an awkward step across to the ramp. Follow the ramp, easier, up left to finish up a little corner to blocks on top.' PA: Russ Crow & Gavin Dunmall, 1996 | 30m | |||
Tongue Point Fang Cove | |||||
13 | Down to the Waterline
| 25m | |||
22 | Back on the Borderline
| 25m | |||
17 | Dire Strait
| 25m | |||
18 | Shark Attack
| 25m | |||
10 | Sea Spray
| 25m | |||
22 | The Happy Hooker
| 20m | |||
21 | Dancing in Giraffe
| 20m | |||
21 | ★ Stormy Monday
First roped climb at Fang Cove. Proud corner on left side of the cliff. Scramble to stance. Follow line to roof. FA finished right under big roof, then traversed left in great position to top of blocks. PA: Russ Crow, Nicola Woolford & Peter Woolford, 1996 | 25m | |||
22 M1 | Rites of Passage
| 25m | |||
Tongue Point Neptunes Thumb | |||||
16 | Sea Nymph
'Prominent twin cracks on landward side to top of Neptunes Thumb' PA: Fiachra Kearney & Peter Woolford, 1996 | 13m | |||
17 | Crab Attack
'From top of Neptunes Thumb, abseil to hanging belay on ocean side. The crack.' PA: Peter Woolford & Fiachra Kearney, 1996 | 13m | |||
Whiskey Bay North Whiskey Ardmore Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Golden Eagle
Hands only problem on granite slopers moving from left to right. PAL: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017 | 3m | |||
Whiskey Bay South Whiskey Keep Walking Boulder | |||||
V0 | ★ Drunk and Alone
Behind the boulder. Sit-start matched laybacking off rail and punch up for the jug. PA: Jamie, 24 En 2021 | 2m | |||
V4 | Johnny Black
Open Project. Sit start. Up overhung black streak on small holds. Equip: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Rare and Exceptional | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Just Coke
Sit start. Up face between left arete and crack line on face. PAL: amelie, 23 Feb 2017 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Johnny and Coke
Sit start. Easily up left leaning diagonal crack on face. PAL: amelie, 23 Feb 2017 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Striding Man Society
Sit start. Use triangular flake to mantle up onto slab. Stride on up. PAL: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017 | 3m | |||
V0 | Societal Intoxication
The small rounded arete. Stand-start and up. PA: Jamie, 25 En 2021 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ The Inebriated Climber
An easy traverse but a tad contrived. Sit-start and move right past a few slopers. PA: Jamie, 25 En 2021 | 4m | |||
Whiskey Bay South Whiskey Chivas Regal Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Smooth Blend
Stand start. Up pocket to the right of the arete, up to small crack. Definite highball so don't fall. PAL: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017 | 6m | |||
V1 | ★★ Chivas Centre
Climb centre line of the slab, just right of Smooth Blend | 6m | |||
V2 | ★★ Chivas Right
Start just left of right arete, climb through the vague pockets to a delicate exit. | 6m | |||
Whiskey Bay South Whiskey Ardberg Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★★ Scotch on the Rocks
Sit start off the rock, using the large left leaning diagonal crack. Up wall through interesting crimps and onto bomber jugs at top. PAL: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017 | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ Heavily Peated
Sit start from wet sand. Tricky mantle onto ground flake and up. Equip: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017 PA: Ash Burton-Smith, 17 Oct 2017 | 5m | |||
V2 | ★ Heavily Peated Scotch on the Rocks
Follow the crack. SDS as for Heavily Peated. Stand and traverse leftward following the diagonal left leaning line. No using jugs at top until you are fully on the slab. PA: Jamie, 24 En 2021 | 3m | |||
Whiskey Bay South Whiskey Neat Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★★ Straight Up
Stand start. Up rounded arete. Watch out for the rocks below, a spotter may help! PAL: amelie, 23 Feb 2017 | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ Just a Nip
On the south side of the boulder opposite Straight Up. Stand start matched on basalt rail. Top out to left via high foot and jugs. Equip: Tom, 31 Dic 2019 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ A Wee Dram
Start as for 'Just a Nip'[3008882781] matched on basalt rail, following pinchy holds out to the right. Equip: Tom, 31 Dic 2019 | 4m | |||
V2 | Brandy Snifter
Match start to the right of 'A Wee Dram'. Traverse around left into 'Just a Nip'. PA: John AO, 1 En | ||||
V2 | Two fingers
Balancy start left of 'Just a Nip'[3008882781] with right hand in nice undercling slot and left hand on faint crimp . Bang up to jug hold and top out directly above. Equip: Tom, 31 Dic 2019 | 4m | |||
Whiskey Bay South Whiskey Lagavulin | |||||
V2 | ★ Navigating Through Murky Waters
SDS on far left of the boulder on nice jug rail with feet underneath. Pull off the ground and mantel. PA: Jamie, 24 En 2021 | 2m | |||
V4 | ★★ The Monster in the Sea
A leftward technical traverse on great holds. SDS with one hand on jug of "Old Fashioned" and the other hand on the 3-finger low pocket. Finish up on the far left of the boulder. The full problem (open project) starts low in the overhang on two 3-finger pockets and busts out to the lip before continuing the traverse. Would likely go. PA: Jamie, 24 En 2021 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Alien Potatoes
A beginner's dream. SDS on the two alien looking potato holds and head directly up using the sidepull on the right. PA: Jamie, 24 En 2021 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Old Fashioned
Start matched on jug on edge of overhang and do a fun one-move punch to the jug and mantle. Bat hang start for fun / style points. Equip: Tom, 31 Dic 2019 | 2m | |||
V0 | Slippery Beginnings
Rounded slab opposite the Lagavulin boulder. Stand-start easily but mantel difficulty. PA: Jamie Ung, 24 En 2021 | 2m | |||
V2 | The Backside of the Whale
A nice technical traverse which is immediately on your left as you can see the Lagavulin boulder. Stand-start as far right as possible. Traverse leftward using slopers and crimps before reaching the jugs. Avoid the good lip until the mantel. PA: Jamie Ung, 24 En 2021 | 3m | |||
Whiskey Bay South Whiskey Pebbly Debbly Boulder | |||||
V0 | ★ Squarking Seagulls
Sit start with hands in the bottom of crack. Follow crack/ flake to the top Equip: Ash Burton-Smith, 17 Oct 2017 PA: Ash Burton-Smith, 17 Oct 2017 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Razor Jammin
Sit start matched on large pebble at bottom of the crack. Follow line of crack up to top out. V4 or V5. Jamming not recommended! Equip: Ash Burton-Smith, 17 Oct 2017 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Risky Whiskey
Start with right hand in the scoop and left on the flake then continue up and to the right, going over the bulge above the scoop to top out. No clear landing spots below but good holds all the way up. PA: Captain Ruin, 19 Jun 2021 | 4m | |||
V0 | ★★ Chunky Spew
Sit start with hands on flake then reach up for chunky bits and hurl on up. PA: Captain Ruin, 19 Jun 2021 | 3m | |||
Whiskey Bay South Whiskey Bourbon | |||||
V2 | ★★ Maker's Mark
Jump to obvious jug to start. Work up the feature, gentle feet. PA: John AO, 3 En | ||||
Whiskey Bay South Whiskey Cracker Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★★ Berty In Tow
Sit start at the large pocket. Climb the subtle arete. Nice slabbing! PA: Spencer Lindsay, Feb 2023 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Crackadacker
Sit Start at bottom of crack. Pull your way up crack while staying balanced. Holds on the face are in. Equip: Ash Burton-Smith, 17 Oct 2017 PA: Ash Burton-Smith, 17 Oct 2017 | 4m | |||
Whiskey Bay South Whiskey The Kiddies Pool | |||||
V2 | ★ Hell or High Water
Feet might get wet starting. Climb to the first crimps left of the centre line, then traverse across to the impression in the boulder. Climb upwards from here, topping out at the partial jug. PAL: Harry B, 29 Ag 2022 | 7m | |||
Whiskey Bay South Whiskey Suntory | |||||
V0 | For Relaxing Times
Start matched on small pinches and move up through big safe holds avoiding huge basalt ledge on left. PA: Hannah Stewart, 31 Dic 2019 | 2m | |||
Whiskey Bay South Whiskey Cocktail Party | |||||
V2 | Gulls on Sazerac
Start at the triangular base and work up its two sides. Top out at the end of the main crack. PA: senri | ||||
Squeaky Beach The Slaughterhouse | |||||
5 | Chicken Heads
| 4m | |||
8 | The Guillotine
| 4m | |||
11 | ★ The Slaughterhouse Traverse
| 6m | |||
12 | ★ Running Laps
Circles the boulder endlessly | 10m | |||
Squeaky Beach | |||||
12 | ★★ Squeak Crack
The obvious crack on the main boulder near the passage. A classic introduction to jamming. | 8m | |||
23 | Bitch Boys
The arete right of Squeaky Crack. Originally top-roped. | ||||
15 | ★★ Trips In The Dark
| 3m | |||
14 | ★ Squeaky Corner
| 10m | |||
25 | Stylemaster
Face right of squeaky corner. PA: Matt Clarke & David Winter, 1995 | 6m | |||
17 | ★★ Squeaky Mouse
Step across creek as for Just the tip. Move up and left to juggy holds 4 to 5 metres up. Equip: Michael Salt, 2013 PAL: Michael Salt, 2013 | 7m | |||
V4 | ★ Slice of Paradise
Start on the decent juggy crimp on the lip and move up and right along the lip, topping out on the Apex of the boulder. PA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, En 2022 | ||||
20 | ★★ Just the Tip
Step across creek onto small foothold. Straight up using small crimps avoiding jugs on the left and Frontal Lobotomy to the right PAL: Michael Salt, 2013 Equip: Michael Salt, 2013 | 7m | |||
17 | ★ Frontal Lobotomy
| 7m |