Mostrando los 40 nodos.
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The Badlands
New crag out in the Wolgan. Andrew Penny put up a route back in the 80's at the far Western end of the crag and called the area Penrose Gully. There are tonnes of potential new routes out there. Bolts are glue in stainless steel requiring bolt brackets. Cliff faces N/W. Don’t go on a hot summer’s day |
20
★★ Home by six
Start at small thin corner. Double set of cams including a #4 and 5 cam essential, small to micro cams handy plus a set of wires.
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22
★★★ Knights of Cydonia
Follows a series of flakes and cracks. Both pitches at 22 the first is technical and the second more powerful. Starts off the same ledge as Arete central. Sling large block for belayer.
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20
★★★ Arete Central
Start off 15m high ledge system 5m left of the Badlands. Access by scrambing up through small cave and scramble up easy wall (grade 5). Start off pedestal 5m left of The badlands at DBB. Up wall past 0.4 cam to flake system. Follow this past 2BR then traverse out to arête. Up arête past 4 BR, # 2 cam in horizontal break, sling horn on the arête, BR, 0.75 and # 1 cam and medium wire to 2bb. Rope stretching 35m rap to ledge then 20m rap to ground off DBB, otherwise scramble back down. |
21
★★★ The Badlands
5m right of cave and 3m left of Off limits. Climbed ground up onsite. The bolts placed on lead were off set thread bolts which have since been removed and replaced by stainless glue in carrots.
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19
★ Off Limits
3m right of TB. 35m 18 – Up nice water polished corner to sandy scoop. Awkward moves to roof then up corner to tree belay. Most parties rap off 5m right of tree belay back to ground. Double rack of cams plus #5 |
20
★★ The road to hell
Start 2m right of Off limits. Up wall to stance, traverse out left past BR to arete. Blast up puppy arete to ledge and then to top. |
20
★★ Trump Wall
Starts 1m left of Acoustic Corner. Great Climbing up a beautiful wall and great rock. Take a single rack with a extra number 2. |
20
★★ Acoustic Corner
5m right of OL.
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21
★★★ My First Time
Start at the seam right of Accoustic Corner. Up this for 2m then right onto face following bolts and gear to gain amazing tapered splitter crack. Up this to 2BB. Rap to ground (better option) or continue up Acoustic Corner. |
18
★ Mach Schnell
Initially led ground up, without pre-inspection. Start at the scoops about 10m right of Acoustic Corner at a small pile of discarded holds - don't be put off by these. Surprisingly well protected using natural placements throughout, take 2 sets of wires and a double rack of small to medium cams. Originally led in 4 pitches, though the below might be a better method.
Descent: walk left to 2 RBB rap station, 32m rap to next station, then 35m to ground at the bottom of Road to Hell. |
17
★★ Flake-ation
Start 50m right of Acoustic Corner. Up obvious flake to ledge. Second pitch-" Back to work " step right of belay up small corner then tend back left to large ledge. Is recommended that you abseil of after first pitch as the second is rather full on.... |
16
Dirty Sally
Nice hand crack to start into some less attractive looking rock. |
17
★★ Fog of war
Big chimney then nice hand crack. 2 x 30m pitches |
19
★ Cor anglais
Star 3m right of FOW. Diagonal crack to ledge. |
18
★★★ Mysts of time
Awesome hand crack!! A big whopping 50m pitch. 10m right of big chimney which is Fog of war and 3m right of scrubby unclimbed corner system at left leaning hand crack. Take plenty of hand size pieces 4x #2, 3x #3's and 2 x #4's as a minimum plus your usual rack. Climb hand crack through small rooflet at 25m to a wide section. Continue to top. Tree belay. |
18
★ Veil of Ignorance
Another great climb, was done ground up with both Hugh's "yoyoing" the first pitch. Start 30m right of "Mysts of Time" on small pedestal.
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17
Zoser
Follows a good line offering interesting hand jamming in the central section. Take a good supply of medium/large cams and hexes. Start in shallow right facing corner which is a bout 15m right of an easy looking blocky chimney/corner. Approx 1km West of The Badlands. Scramble up 10m to tree anchor on triangular sandy ledge. Up short slab then hard moves (crux) bridging past BR and then up corner being carful of several loose blocks and Boris the spider!. Abseil off tree. |
16
Fear of Council
Start 20m left of Glockenspiel Crack at low angled blunt arete.
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19
★ Glockenspiel Crack
60m to the right of Zoser, look out for a striking rightwards diagonal crack splitting the headwall.
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18
★ Forgetful
Named because the Jesse forgot most of his climbing gear. Start 10m right of Glockenspiel crack. P1. 10m.Up small open book corner for 5m to ledge and belay 5m to the right at good stance. P2. 25m. Straight up crack through chimney into awesome hand crack. Belay in chimney. P3. 35m. Continue up chimney and crack. Rap off tree as for TWTLD |
20
★ Dairy Heroin
Nice climbing but a tad serious.
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19
★★ The Penguin
Start 50m right of This water tastes like diesel. Thin corner with two carrots at the start. |
20
★★ Cries of a Whipping Boy
Start at arete to the left of 'Cave Diving'. Another classy addition to the area.
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19
★★ Cave Diving
Start just before large corner and 30m before Mouseland. First pitch (18) Up twin seams to awesome hand crack. First pitch finishes at a stance with some fixed hexes Second pitch (19). Wide Crack with featured face holds. Wide gear and some small stuff. Finish at fixed sling. Abseil off. |
15
Snowflake
Potentially quite dangerous. Start at the splitting crack to the right of the big corner under the obvious roof. Up this to tree, better than it looks. Into corner system on left and up through limestone-esque cave features to horrifying shield. Gingerly commit to shield then awkward moves into chimney and up to bolted anchor. It would not be pretty if this shield dislodged with belayer below. There is a pitch (open project) above this that looks quite good, although it was too wet to climb it on our visit. Previous high point (just below shield) set by Brad Carmady. |
18
★★ Mouse Land
Start approximately 100m right of Glockenspiel Crack at obvious overhanging hand crack in yellow rock. Up crack until it widens significantly at a stance. More dignified to move left onto the face to use some unprotected but big holds to the ledge, rather than grovelling up the offwidth. Great climb. A large thread on the ledge allows an easy descent. |
18
★★ Via Appia.
Described by Statius as "the queen of long distance roads" the construction of the Appian Way commenced in 312 BC and served as a supply route for troops and supplies during the Samnite Wars. As a long straight clean line this is one of the more efficient ways to gain the 1/2 way ledge for anyone wanting to inspect the tougher routes prior to climbing. The line commences about 10m Right of Mouse land and 20m Left of Interregnum. Follow the rightmost of the 2 cracks through a bulge and onto a blunt arête. Directly up the sea of rock on the arête through mixed gear, beautiful holds and fabulous exposure. The last 5m off the ledge to the anchor is climbed via the small arete past 1 BR to tree belay. Take: 8 bolt plates, at least 2 x .5 and 2 x .3, offset nuts are good (keep a blue for the headwall), otherwise a single rack should do. |
22
★★ Durum Via.
Durum via - hard road. Bring your big boy pants . Great face climbing completely on gear. Start 20 to 30m right of 'Mouseland' at top of small rise. Up groove with seem for protection. Continue up vague groove feature to left side of roof at 2/3 height. Up flake then wall to top. Take care. |
20
★★ Interregnum
Stunning blunt arete immediately left of "Just Don't Be Weak". Mega classic pitch and a must do of the crag! Requires 15 bolt plates as well as a single rack of cams from .4 to 2 and a set of wires. Step into the line from left side of arete. Rap down from large tree at half way ledge. Doubles get you to the ground, or a single rope reaches the anchors at "Just Don't Be Weak". |
18
★★ Just Don't Be Weak
Outstanding climbing, probably one of the "Must Do's" at the crag, despite it's shorter length. Stemming corner problem with small gear down low. 2 sets of nuts are worth considering, as is a #4 for up high. Follow the thin crack until it widens to off width, then look for gear and holds on the face. 2BB at the top of this pitch. A rope stretching 30m abseil to the deck. An attempt was made on the corner above, but abandoned after 15m due to loose rock, reduced rock quality, and the proximity of more desirable climbing. |
21
★★★ The house Jack built
The fused corner the right of just don't be weak. Start behind large tree. 3 BR's to #3 Camalot then up and left into fused corner. Excellent stemming past good but small wires and cams. DBB |
20
★ Tears of the sun
Start 10m right of The House Jack Built in small alcove. Bring plenty of finger size pieces as its quiet sustained in that size. Climb the rotten corner for a meter or so then up onto wall past two horizontal breaks which take cams. Keep moving up till your feet are in the second horizontal and make a hard move out to arete, BR then up to base of corner. Steeply up finger crack corner for 25m to large ledge. Climb slaby corner on the right to tree belay. |
20
★★ Had Me in Stitches
Start approximately 100m right of 'don't be Weak' at tall finger sized stemming corner. A mega pitch and classic wolgan heady climbing. Follow corner all the way to tree belay. Being solid at the grade is recommended. |
19
★★ Smoking Clutch
Up shallow corner, crack then finger seem to thread. Then wall to top. Bring extra in small gear. |
17
★ Blinded by the White
Named as such because of the pasty shirtless climbers in the area on the first ascent. Start 50m right past 'Had me in Stitches'. Double cracks at left of wall. Climb right crack until they converge, continue till crack ends then out left and up. Awesome position. Tree anchor. Two ropes required to get Down. |
14
★★ Blue Mountains Has Talent
Climbs the crackline 5(ish) metres right of Blinded by the White. Splitter crack up the wall, although the climbing tends to make use of the face holds, belay at big tree to avoid loose 1/2 way ledge. A lovely line. Rap 42m from the tree to the ground. |
18
★ Plan A
Lovely but committing face climbing up to crack line 1/2 way up the wall, initially climbed on sight and ground up, so the grading and star may need some verification. Start on the face a couple of metres right of Blue Mountains Has Talent, up past large cams (4 and/or 5) in horizontal at top of block and then onto face. Past bolt and adequate wire as well as slung chicken heads to small cams (0.5 or 0.75) in horizontal break, continue to the base of finger crack. Follow crack to high tree anchor. 42m rappelled from this tree. |
18
★★ Merlin's Wrath
Begin on the far right-hand side of the wall where "Blinded by the White" is the first crack system. Go up the hill until you are 10 meters from the corner, and you will see a crack with a small plant at 1/3 height and an off-width slot about half way up. Bring plenty of medium-big gear: 3 number 3's and a single 5 are not the worst idea in the world...The tree sitting right above the line is unfortunately dead and has been burnt, so either traverse awkwardly 4 meters left to only decent tree around to belay, or go way back over the edge to larger tree behind the first dead one. Take care not to kill your belayer in the process of reaching an anchor tree. Requires two 60 meter ropes to get down and some shenanigans. |
17
★★ Shark Fin crack
Cool "shark fin" looking corner system on the upper cliff line - see photo above. "Enjoyable, dunno if I'd bother repeating it. Cool adventure though" Hugh Ward. The route can be accessed via a half way ledge from the West. Quite a long walk for one route, but there is plenty of potential for further routes. Can be seen from the road. Almost directly above The house jack built. |
Mostrando los 40 nodos.