Ascensiones en Mitte-Süd

schon schwer für 6b, super schöne runde Henkel und Sloper. Handklemmer oben hilft

Fast geschafft . Alle Züge gingen aber am letzten schweren Zug gefallen. Schon sehr leicht im vergleich mit anderen Bouldern im Gebiet. Nochmal rein! Erst linke hand ans kleine Loch dann rechte Hand daneben ins Große. Kreuzen an Seitgriff Leiste mit rechts (Füße dabei beide rechts unten lassen)

Schöne Slab Tour, hatte keine Zeit mehr die Züge oben auszutesten weil wir noch bouldern gehen wollten.

Unten ganz komische Stelle an Slopern. Oben Crux an Crimps. Super gut , aber da reicht meine Kraft noch nicht ganz. Schwer für 7b+

Oben ok, aber zweite Exe konnte ich erst klippen nachdem Fabi sie eingehängt hatte. Bisschen blöde Boltstelle, von den Henkeln erreicht man den Bolt nicht.

Super schöne Tour. Fast ausschließlich Seitgriffe die man gut auf Schulter nehmen kann, da der Fels Schichten hat die schräg nach oben gehen. An der ersten schweren Stelle am dritten Bolt links bleiben im schwarzen Fels hat es gute Seitleisten. Dann dran bleiben. Ca. beim vierten Bolt dann linken Fuß sehr weit links stellen. Oben am Umlenker rechts halten! dann ist es leicht. guten Seitgriff mit links nehmen. Unbedingt nochmal machen. Fast geschafft, Ausdauertour!

Unclimbable for me today. The holds in the middle were not completely wet, but very moist through the high humidity and the fog regularly drifting along the wall. It was almost impossible to hold on to some of them.

Easily climbed up to the redpoint crux on my try today, but there was exactly one crucial (soaking) wet hold (at least I think I used it last time) and I fell off. The fog got denser afterwards and everything became even more moist, so I did not try again.

Did not quite manage to do the first barefoot toprope flash of this route, sliding off a wet sloper just before the chains.

Did not quite onsight the slab crux. Very nice route, though.

Amazing long route through the middle of the wall. Only had time for one attempt. The start is a bit strange on downward angled edges and few foot holds, first going up and then traversing to the left. The end of the traverse is a very fun boulder problem: after matching an undercling on your right, you go left into a very long sidepull which you take as a gaston with the left hand. The right foot is on a really big hold, which allows you to bring in your right hand to a bad sidepull at the upper end of the edge on your left. Then, the left hand is placed further down on a large ledge. With the left hand pushing, you match feet on the good foot hold, then put your right foot further in and left on a tiny foot hold. For stabilization, put the left hand a bit further left, place your left foot where the hand was and then slowly extend your left hand to the upper left until you reach a jug (I turned the movement into a half-jump at the end to be able to reach all the way). After some easier climbing, there is another hard section after a very good undercling. The final slab is also not super easy.

Photos and topo are inconsistent in our guidebook - not sure if we did this one.

Nice dyno at the second quickdraw. I first thought I definitely would not be able to do it, but it was not that hard with enough commitment, surprisingly. The setting right next to the river is amazing.

Crux on tiny crimps

I should have looked at the topo for longer, the route is supposed to merge into Möwe Jonathan on the right but I went left instead. After realizing that you are supposed to go right and that the crux is therefore moving from a vertical, round arête to the right into a slab, I decided that I wasn't motivated to try again. The lower part is overhanging on very nice rock and maybe 7a+. The best combination is probably climbing this 7a+ part and topping out via Todo o nara (which doesn't add anything to the difficulty).

Very nice climbing on rounded cracks in an overhanging wall. When climbing the edge on the top, the rope drag is annoying because the rope is in contact with the slab on the right for quite a few meters.

Two loose flakes, the rock is not as good as around the edge on the left.

Amazing rock throughout the route. The crux is climbing up and left on sideclings until reaching a juggy flake.