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Vías como clásica en Ontario

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Ordenado por: Edición en bloque (máx. 100)

Mostrando 1 - 100 de 1,369 vías.

Grado Vía Estilo de equipamiento Popularidad
Eastern Ontario Alice Roadside
5.6 Easy Way Up

Start at the bottom of the easy way down below a small flake. Climb up to easier ground finishing with a scramble to the top.

Clásica 7m
5.5 Piton-be-gone

10m left of Someone's Overhang. Up the finger crack on the right side of the face, moving right just below the top boulder and up a small ramp. No anchor.

Descend down easy terrain on the right side.

Clásica 10m
5.7 True Drew

Climb the inside corner left of Crimper's Cramp. Gear to 2 inches. Often wet. Rap anchor at the top.

Clásica 15m
5.6 Fire Starter

Start under the large roof, 5m left of Mad Hatter. Climb the finger crack up, traverse right and climb past roof on the right side. Climb towards left inside corner past 2 bolts, then up the large right slanting crack. Either top out or rap from anchor for Mad Hatter. Alternate start same as Mad Hatter.

Clásica mixta 15m, 2
5.10b Fire Starter Direct

Start 5m left of Mad Hatter. Climb up slab, past a bolt, through the roof, past a second bolt, and link back up with Fire Starter for the finish.

Clásica mixta 15m, 4
5.8 Areted Development

Start left of Firestarter at the left end of the large roof. Climb up and left under the roof, around the arête, and onto the face. Climb up the face past 2 bolts to a ledge, following the arête up past some loose rock and a bolt through the short overhang to the top.

Clásica mixta 20m, 3
5.8 Mixed Feelings

Around the corner, 5m left of Fire Starter, climb the face.

Clásica mixta 15m, 3
5.5 Queen of Hearts

5m left of the start for Mixed Feelings. Climb the right leaning dihedral to a rappel anchor.

Clásica 15m
Eastern Ontario Bon Echo
5.6 Atomic Marshmallow
Clásica 59m, 2
5.0 Squirrel

Hard to find, a possibly un-repeated 5.0.

Clásica 75m, 2
5.0 Jerry's Route
Clásica 90m, 3
5.2 One Sleeve
Clásica 90m, 4
5.10 Mediterranean Sundance

Closed.

Clásica 88m, 3
5.2 Garden Wall
Clásica 97m, 3
5.6 Saturday Night and Sunday Morning

Shares first pitch with Garden Wall.

Clásica 100m, 4
5.10 Dead Flowers

Variant first pitch for Tumbling Dice. Possibly not repeated.

Clásica
5.10 Tumbling Dice

Rarely repeated.

Clásica 2
5.4 Crazy Paving
Clásica 81m, 3
5.10 Thunder Crack and Lighting
Clásica 2
5.10 The Last Shall Be First
Clásica 100m, 5
5.10+ Compulsion
Clásica 92m, 4
5.5 Fanny Hill
Clásica 98m, 4
5.7 Suzy Wong

Alternate start to Fanny Hill.

Clásica 40m
5.9 Perversion
Clásica 110m, 4
5.8 Enovid
Clásica 70m, 3
5.10 Great Leap Forward

Original ascent with aid on 2nd pitch by M de St Jorre and R.M. Preshaw in July 1982 (at about 5.7, A1). Now free but unknown who freed it.

Clásica 74m, 2
5.9 Sweet Dreams
Clásica 78m, 3
5.7 Little Flo
Clásica 72m, 3
5.5 Ciao

The obvious, but less pleasant, start to Little Flo.

Clásica 25m
5.4 The Slab

First pitch is good, rest are crap -- people often rappel off of bolted anchors after the first pitch, and this is one of the few approved rappel points on the cliff.

PA: Bob Shaylor & Jim White, 1961

Clásica mixta 88m, 3, 1
5.3 Slabadob

Alternate ending for The Slab.

Clásica 30m
Dead End Ramp

A not yet completed route.

Clásica
5.8 Top Secret
  1. Pitch (5.8) 27m. Climb up and right past a bolt and onto a blocky ledge then straight up (crux) past a bolt. Go leftwards onto a narrow ramp. Follow this ramp up and onto a 2 bolt belay.

  2. Pitch (5.3) - Step up and right across a left facing open book, then around a nose (psychological crux). Traverse right to a ramp, turn left and go up the ramp to a stance just past a large tree. There are very loose rocks on this ramp. Take care not to dislodge them.

  3. Pitch (5.3) - Continue up the ramp to the next tree passing the first obvious break to the right. If you take that break to the right, climb the face up to the top. You can also opt for an easier finish by finishing up on the ramp.

PA: David Atherton & Jim White, 1964

Clásica mixta 90m, 3, 4
5.7 Wendy

Alternate finish to Top Secret

Clásica 22m
5.6 Persuasion

A traverse connecting the top of the first class 5 pitch of Top Secret to the end of the Ottawa route.

Clásica 53m, 3
5.8 Ottawa Route
Clásica 110m, 5
5.8 Jolly Folly

Alternate finish to Ottawa Route

Clásica 40m, 2
5.9 Mother Fletcher's Overhang
Clásica 120m, 5
5.8 Weirdo

Not often repeated.

Clásica 120m, 4
5.10 Club Disciplinarian

Possibly never repeated. A short route at the top of the cliff, was originally abseiled into, but that is no longer allowed. Might be accessible by a traverse from the third belay of The Joke.

Clásica 15m
5.9 The Joke
Clásica 120m, 4
5.10+ The Last Laugh

Alternate last pitch for The Joke -- not often repeated.

Clásica 5m
5.10 Punchline

First two pitches as per the joke, then branches right.

Clásica 120m, 4
5.10 Horror Show for Idiots

Accidentally climbed by someone trying to repeat Queer Duck. Rarely or never repeated.

Clásica 140m, 4
5.10 Queer Duck

Not often repeated.

Clásica 140m, 4
5.9 Prisoners of Mother England

Possibly never repeated.

Clásica 4
5.9 M.F.

"Mike's Farewell".

Clásica 130m, 4
5.3 One Pine

Start: about 120m north of the (first) easy way down, at the bottom of a major ramp. The climb generally stays near the outside edge of the ramp.

  1. 10m Scramble up the rock spike on the left-hand edge of the slab.

  2. 40m Climbing near or on the outside edge, move up to a wide ledge with a good belay.

  3. 28m Go more or less straight up.

  4. 25m Climb up 3m and move right accross the slab to an obvious crack. Climb up the crack to the pine tree, which turns out to be a cedar (very old -- don't touch). (Variations are possible.)

  5. 15m Scramble to the top.

4(a). 5.5 From the end of the third pitch, there appears to be a good crack going diagonally up to the left. It leads out onto the face. Follow the crack up past one cedar to another one. Climb back up and right to get onto the ramp near the end of the last pitch of the regular route. This variation has been climbed accidentally many times over the years.

(Was in the database as "White Pine". There is no such named route at Bon Echo, so guessing the original contributor meant "One Pine", and renamed to that to preserve the ascents.)

Clásica 120m, 3
5.8 A1 The Rolling Stones

Very rarely climbed.

Clásica 120m, 5
5.7 The Brass Monkey

Closed route.

Clásica
5.6 Monkeyshines

Closed route.

Clásica
5.5 Calamity
Clásica 43m, 2
5.6 Brian's Variation

Variation after the first pitch of Calamity

Clásica 48m, 2
5.10 Bit of Bother
Clásica 73m, 2
5.7 Yellow Fever
Clásica 90m, 3
5.1 Red Groove

An impressive route for beginners.

Clásica 80m, 2
5.7 Redder Groove

Variation middle pitch for Red Groove

Clásica
5.4 Carver's Variation

Variation for part of 3rd pitch of Red Groove.

Clásica
5.11 Yonge Street
Clásica 100m, 4
5.7 Paradise Lost
Clásica 70m, 3
The Gully Joke

Closed climb.

Clásica
5.8 P-H
Clásica 45m, 2
5.7 318
Clásica 45m, 3
5.9 Winking Crack
Clásica 31m, 2
5.10 Gerry DeMaio's Memorial

Rarely to never repeated.

Clásica 30m, 2
5.11b Popeye
Clásica 32m, 2
5.11c Olive Oyl

Variant end for Popeye. Only been top-roped.

Clásica 30m
Class 4 Easy Way Down (1)

Something of a misnomer and dangerous at the best of times. Take great care to avoid dislodging rocks onto the heads of those below. Beginners should be roped and belayed from above. There has been at least on serious accident due to a fall while descending this route. Turn left (towards the lake) near the bottom.

At the lake side, at the bottom of Easy Way Down, is a good place to wait for a boat pickup. Just to the south of the pickup point is Turtle Rock, the overhanging rock used by kids (old and young) as a diving board.

Turtle Traverse: Start in the water underneath the overhang, climb up and out, mantle, and dive back in. V0.

Clásica
5.0 Jacob's Ladder
Clásica 25m
5.6 Formication & Mac's Book
Clásica 70m, 2
5.5 French Form

(40m) Pitch 1: Start near a large cedar tree. Climb up a leftwards ramp on crumbly rock. Protection is poor for the first 15m. You will reach a rusty piton about 30m up the right side of the ramp. You will eventually reach a 2 bolt belay on a small ledge near a large, dead tree.

(30m) Pitch 2: Continue on the slab until you reach a small short wall below two cedar trees. Climb to the right or climb straight up for a harder finish up to a ledge.

Walk across 8m of vegetation on the ledge to a 2 bolt belay right under a (~20m) wall.

(21m) Pitch 3: Face climbing up to a small overhang at 10m. Pull the overhang or duck right for an easier variation. Belay at the top with 1 bolt and gear.

PA: David Atherton & Isla Hoppett, 1964

Clásica mixta 99m, 3, 3
5.10 Darlington Country
Clásica 70m, 3
5.7 Moonday
Clásica 70m, 3
5.7 Mooning Boris

Start on first pitch of Boris, then traverse and finish on 3rd pitch of Moonday.

Clásica 70m, 3
5.5 Boris' Route

Perhaps the best 5.5 at Bon Echo.

Goes up the 2nd main diagonal left of the slab/arete of "Birthday Ridge". Look for a bolted anchor on a platform about 2m above lake level.

  1. Step right from the platform to the slanting crack(s), and follow them up and leftwards past a cedar tree to a gear belay by some juniper shrubs.

  2. Continue up the ramp past a single bolt and then a pin to a slanting ledge with a two-bolt anchor.

  3. Continue up and left until you reach a platform below an overhang at the top. Pull this one way or another, or perhaps dodge it to the left. 2-bolt anchor at top.

PA: Boris Dopta & Chalky White, 1960

Clásica 70m, 3
5.9 Harmful Armful
Clásica 80m, 4
5.10 Spliffgenerates

Not often repeated.

Clásica 85m, 3
5.7 Faithful Turkey
Clásica 80m, 3
5.0 Birthday Ridge

This is Bon Echo's first route, and remains the traditional introduction for beginning climbers. (There is a 5.0 variant.)

Start: the tree-filled gully north of The Pinnacle

  1. 15m (4th class) Scramble up the gully and over scree to a pair of large trees on the left. (If you really want a 5.0 climb, scramble further up the gully on the right to the Saucer Lucy and Thin Nick start, then follow 2 alt.)

  2. 35m (5.2) Climb the break in the boulders and follow the ramp leftwards up to the ridge. Work your way right up a crack to a ledge covered with loose boulders. Round the nose on the skyline and climb the easy angled wall to a large stance by a silver birch tree (with a 2 bolt belay station).

  3. 25m (5.0) Move left up the slab above the the birch tree to a groove which leads to a ledge by some Juniper bushes. Climb left to the ridge and follow it to a ledge with a small strong cedar tree where the angle of the ridge eases. This tree is a good example of the ancient cedars on the cliff. Don't sling -- there's a bolt. Belay here, or continue to the top.

  4. 15m (5.0) Prance on up to the top. Belay at the two bolt rap station. Two ropes are needed for the rappel.

2a. 30m (5.0) Climb corners and ledges up and left to the silver birch belay at the end of the standard 2nd pitch.

(Was in the database as "The Birthday Route". No route with that exact name existed, this seemed the most likely match.)

Clásica 90m, 2
5.4 Cool Corner

PA: Jim Mark & Helmut Microys, 1978

Clásica 65m, 2
5.7 Very Thin Nicholas
Clásica 60m, 2
5.7 Saucer Lucy

The rap station at the top of Saucer Lucy is the only one at the top of the cliff available to climbers. (If top-roping Saucer Lucy, please use your own 'biners to protect the anchors from wear.)

Clásica 60m, 2
5.3 Bloody Medoc

Massive rock fall has obliterated this route. Description is in guide only for posterity.

Clásica 55m
5.11 Knight of Faith

Rarely or never repeated.

Clásica 95m, 4
5.8 A4 Nine Pins
Clásica 70m, 2
5.4 Back of the Pinnacle
Clásica 85m, 3
5.8 Jim's Sling
Clásica 90m, 4
5.4 Front of the Pinnacle

Near the middle of the cliff there is a detached pinnacle (about the only clear pinnacle on the cliff); this climbs the south (right) ramp of the pinnacle to the top, then steps across onto the main face and up to the top.

Start at the corner of the ramp up to the pinnacle from the south, and generally follows the arete.

  1. 40m (5.4) Climb the arete and slab to a large ledge with a bolted anchor.

  2. 30m (5.4) Climb the arete to a ledge below a smooth slab, move left onto the face and up some steeper moves to rejoin the arete, then continue up the arete to the pinnacle. Belay to avoid rope drag or enjoy the pinnacle.

  3. 10m (5.4) Step across to the main face, and climb to the top, looking left for a two-bolt anchor.

("Pinical" was in the database -- but there was no matching route. I am guessing this refers to the classic "Front of the Pinnacle", rather than "Back of the Pinnacle". Renamed to preserve assents, rather than delete & recreate.)

Clásica 100m, 3
5.11 When Shrimps Learnt to Whistle
Clásica 90m, 5
5.9 The Entertainer
Clásica 90m, 5
5.10 The Entertainer Direct

More direct (and more difficult) finish for The Entertainer

Clásica 90m, 5
5.12 Spiderman

Closed route - pictographs.

Clásica 90m, 4
5.8 A3 Flat Paint
Clásica
5.10 L'Idiote
Clásica 85m, 3
5.11 Fool's End
Clásica 75m, 2
5.11 A0 Thunder Road

Not often repeated.

Clásica 75m, 2
5.9 Jugornot
Clásica 60m, 3
5.7 Black Groove

Climb closed.

Clásica 35m, 2
5.4 Yellow Groove

Start at the first diagonal ramp south (right) of Black Groove.

  1. 20m Leave the platform to the left and climb the obvious fault on good holds. Continue up the fault and bear right to a large tree or do a semi-layback right and move left to the tree.
  2. 25m Continue left up the ramp. Struggle past a small cedar, and climb straight up to the top.
Clásica 45m, 2
5.5 Conclusion
Clásica 60m, 2

Mostrando 1 - 100 de 1,369 vías.

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