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Ascensiones en Deception Wall 骗子墙

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Mostrando los 2 ascensiones.

Grado Vía Estilo de equipamiento Calidad Escalador
Jue 7.º Mayo 2020 - 石鼓 Shigu
Deception Wall 骗子墙
7a+ The Lonely Sherpha Deportiva 180m Megaclásica
RoyXu
第一段先锋,只有一个难点,翻一个屋檐,我觉得不是特别难,v2-v3。爬完感觉完成整个线路问题不大。第二段先锋onsight,线路很有意思,在几个缝上倒重心。第三段跟攀,对我来说特别难,脚法太差感觉啥点都踩不住,一点点crimp往上蹭,花了一个小时,耗尽体力。第四段跟攀,比较容易,没什么太多特点。第五段先锋,这个时候已经很累了,后半部分有个夹角,要做layback。第六段跟攀是我在整个结组里最艰苦的一段,这个时候感觉什么点都抓不住了,难点也有个夹角,需要用两侧的手点。第七段跟攀,本来以为这段都要抓快挂上了,没想到体力恢复了一些,而且这段很适合我,大手点翻小平台,最后竟然一次都没有掉。最后一段跟攀,有一个小难点,问题不大

 
Mié 2.º Mayo 2018 - 石鼓 Shigu
Deception Wall 骗子墙
7b 7a+ The Lonely Sherpha Deportiva 180m Medio
Arthur Fernandez
Could be a nice multipitch. But it needs some cleaning first. The problem is that this route has not been climbed much since the day it was bolted. I broke at least three feet holds on the crux pitch.Also, I recommand bringing a stick clip for the third pitch, otherwise a fall at the lower crux might end up with you hitting your belayer. An extra bolt should be added soon local route setters though. After that, the whole route should be much safer. The gear on the wall is in good conditions. Generally speaking, it is an interesting line with lots of different types of climbing involved, and quite an exposure at some point. Due to the broken flakes on pitch 3, I would say that the grade of the hardest pitch is around 5.12b.

 

Mostrando los 2 ascensiones.

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