Cuba Guide

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Estacionalidad

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 22.110443, -79.878574

Resumen

Cuba is developing to a first class climbing destination combining outstanding limestone cliffs with everything else you need for a holiday.

descripción

Este lugar está situado a 25km aproximadamente de la provincia de Holguín, carretera de Gibara.

Exelente lugar en desarrollo con más de 10 rutas deportivas desde 5tos hasta 7mo. Exelente calidad de la roca y clima agradable todo el año a la orilla de un río.

Acceso

Fly into Havana and take a taxi or bus to the respective area.

Regular

Fácil acceso

Ética

Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community.

The history of climbing in Cuba is somewhat unclear. Real development started with the visit of mostly US climbers in the late ninteen 90's and continued since then with development efforts by both, local and foreign climbers.

Este lugar se encuentra a 8km de Gibara a las ardillas de Río Cacoyugüín.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva y Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: 23.135957, -82.383756

Summary:

Todo Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: 23.150771, -82.356024

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 23.120690, -82.411859

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 22.643364, -83.746095

Resumen

Viñales is the prime climbing destination on Cuba and an outstanding winter climbing destination on a global level.

descripción

Viñales offers limestone caves with tufas, technical climbing, single and multi pitch climbing, a pleasant town and plenty of restday activities from white sandy beaches to hiking or just chilling. Be prepared for a real Cuban experience which might also involve the fact that things do not happen as planned. But everyone around town will try to help you make your stay a great stay and memorable experience.

Acceso

Most people fly into Havanna. The bus or taxi ride to Viñales is about 2.5 to 3 hours.

Alojamiento

Stay in one of plenty "Casa Particulares" - rooms rented out in private houses. You might book rooms with breakfast and even dinner.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 22.617470, -83.739638

Resumen

Campismo Area is comprised of several sectors on the “south side” of Viñales.

descripción

Some of the sectors of Campismo Area are part of Mogote del Valle, others are on individual mogotes. This is also the location of the widely advertised Mural de la Prehistoria, a huge painted cliff depicting evolution. Most of the cliffs are oriented west which makes it a shady climbing area in the morning.

Acceso

Head out of Viñales on the southern end and go straight (not in direction of Pinar del Río) for about 3km. You will see a road sign for a turn off to the right indicating the Mural de la Prehistoria and the Campismo dos Hermanas. Take this road for all sectors except for Mogote Santero. The first sector is directly at your right, continue further down that road for the other sectors. See sector information for details.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 22.625017, -83.722584

Resumen

The most popular and closest crag in Viñales with plenty of sectors.

descripción

Mogote del Valle is probably the first set of cliffs you will see when arriving in Viñales. It is located just a few minutes north west of the town. Its structure, rock and vegetation will remind you of the rocks near 'Krabi'[11875945] in Thailand if you have ever been there. Mogote del Valle hosts the biggest amount of climbs in the Valle de Viñales in multiple cliffs and sectors. They range from single pitch climbs up to 3 pitch climbs and offer everything from technical and crimpy face climbing to steep tufa pulling in caves. Most of the cliffs are oriented south east and thus see sun till early afternoon, but of course there are exceptions. See the cliff and sector information for details.

Acceso

All of the cliffs and sectors in Mogote del Valle can easily be reached on foot. Approaches are typically flat and short but be prepared to walk under the sun. There are 2 main approaches from Viñales.

If you rather aim for the cliffs on the right side (more northern side) hike down Calle Adela Azcuy Norte (passed the football field) in direction of Raúl’s Farm (you might see signs for Cabeza de la Vaca or Cueva de la Vaca). Aim for the obvious sectors once you pass Raúl’s Farm.
If you rather aim for the cliffs on the left side (more souther side) follow the main road in town in direction south until you almost exit the town and take a right (on to Sergio Dopico) where the main road makes a left turn. Follow this paved road for a moment. It will turn into a dirt road soon and then - at a farm house - into a single track trail. Pass left of the farm house (there might be a sign for Cueva Larga) and follow the trail to the respective sectors.

You might link from this farm house to Raúl’s Farm by following the dirt road to the right.

See the cliff and sector information for details on the approach.

Be aware that you walk and pass on farm land. Please be respectful and don’t trample on crops.

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 22.637860, -83.712960

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 22.652944, -83.715389

Resumen

Palenque Area offers probably the most impressive rock formations around Viñales. Huge caves with massive tufas, tall walls and short approaches make this a must go area for all visitors.

descripción

All sectors are located right and left of the road that heads out north of Viñales in direction of Puerto Esperanza and can’t be missed. There is a bar in the cave next to the parking.

Acceso

Drive out north of Viñales for about 4km. The road will climb a bit (the small pass is called Abra de Ancón) and soon thereafter you will see the giant Mr. Mogote on your right and shortly thereafter the impressive Cuba Libre Wall on your left. Now the road starts decending and after a few hundred meters you reach the parking of El Palenque on your left.

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 22.683573, -83.725666

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 22.688671, -83.717905

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 22.626404, -83.696329

Acceso

From Viñales town, go north through the main road until you reach the gas station, keep walking straight (right on the intersection at the gas station) for 1 km, take a left to a dirt road at a green sign just before the road starts to steep, you will see coco solo hill on the left. Keep walking on the dirt road for another 800 m total, going around the east side of coco solo hill. You will see the wall on the left. Go through the private road that has the palm trees and find your way avoiding the crop fields to the wall. It will take you about 20-25 minutes walking from Viñales town to get to teh wall.

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 23.148219, -81.858289

descripción

A great climbing area just a few meters from marvelous beaches and with an amazing view. Perfect bolting at the cueva de la virgen and just a few rosty bolts at the peñon, mostly also there with good quality bolts. The ankor are doubled. A great area to visit for a few days. Compared to Viñales it is not that hot with much less moskitos. There is often a nice wind that provides good climbing even in May and later in spring and summer.

Accommodation: not that easy. Recommended is a casa left of the western end of the bridge which looks a little bit like a castle. Just opposite of the military resort. It has AC, breakfast (small one) and a very friendly host. You can also get a very delicious dinner there. It is about a 15 min walk to the rock. Not recommended is the casa just underneath the rock to the west. It is more expensive and has no AC. The owner tried to trick us as he called the guard of the coco camp site to tell us that the camp is full and to send us back to his house. The camp ground itself is very noisy and also about 15 min away from the rock.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 23.151491, -81.865507

descripción

A great place to enjoy climbing and the sea. Windy, no moskitos and good routs. Just between 10 and 15 meters high, but perfekt for half a day in combination with the great beaches in the area. The rock is super sharp. Bolts are mostly in good shape, just a few rosty ones.

Acceso

From the western end of the bridge walk around the military resort towards a small hill altheong the fence. On the hill you can see the rock already. Walk on the path and turn right. Be careful with the bushes.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 23.147214, -81.851719

descripción

A beautiful rock with wonderful routs. North facing, high, solid rock and perfektly bolted. Very nice view. Enjoy!

Accommodation: not that easy. Recommended is a casa left of the west end of the bridge which looks a little bit like a castle. Just opposite of the military resort. It has AC, breakfast (small one) and a very friendly host. You can also get a very delicious dinner there. It is about a 15 min walk to the rock. Not recommended is the casa just underneath the rock to the west. It is more expensive and has no AC. The owner tried to trick us as he called the guard of the coco camp site to tell us that the camp is full and to send us back to his house. The camp ground itself is very noisy and also about 15 min away from the rock.

Acceso

Coming from West walk along the street next to the beaches until you see a small house/church at the right side (see picture). Walk to the church and follow the stairs up for about 2 min.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 23.147352, -81.850669

Summary:

Lat / Long: 23.147458, -81.849928

Resumen

Ubicado en el camino del estero del mítico valle de Yumurí. Al frente a pocos metros se encuentra el río del mismo nombre. En la cima se encuentra la famosa Ermita de Monserrat. Vistas espectaculares.

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Resumen

Provincia del Oriente del país, con varias zonas de escalada equipadas y mucho potencial para abrir nuevas rutas.

Alojamiento

Variadas opciones, como áreas adecuadas para usar casas de campaña cerca de las zonas, casas de renta, y la cadena hotelera.

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 21.005148, -75.925517

Resumen

Once upon a time in 1492, when Christopher Columbus voyaged to the edges of Cuba, the first thing he saw on the horizon were two rock formations protruding above the green jungle. One of them, the smaller, but more fierce and with a double top, he called Los Tetas de Theresa (Theresa’s Boobs). The second one was the majestic hill of Los Portales. Because of its historical significance, Los Tetas the Theresa is under national protection and is close to climbers. Los Portales, on the other hand, is a sport climbers' paradise with high-quality lines on overhung limestone with pristine nature away from busy touristy spots. The crag was discovered by local climbers from Holguín years before the development of the first routes. In February 2024, Los Portales crag became the base of a sport climbing development course organized by Ola Przybysz (supported by Global Climbing Initiative, Climbing Factory, ClimbX, Reason, Wroclaw Mountaineering Club and supported by individual donations) during which, ten international and local climbers came together and developed first 13 lines. The climbing potential of Los Portales and surrounding hills is huge and future development is very welcomed.

restricciones

GPS location: 21.00414, -75.924871 (21°00′14.9″N 75°55′29.54″W)

The crag is located two kilometers away from the edges of Bariay village and around 8km from the town of Rafael Freyre. 35 km away from the crag is the province capital-- Holguín with an International airport.

To get to the Los Portales crag from Holguín we need to take a local transport heading to Guardalavaca and get off at the crossroad heading to Rafael Freyre (21.022709, -75.987307). There are busses as well as shared taxis that can take you there from Holguin. After getting off at the crossroads, try to get a random transport heading to Bariay. Most likely you can find a horse carriage or a truck heading in that direction. Sometimes you may find yourself on a slow but pleasant ride on a cow carriage. The normal price for this distance is around 50-100 CUP. After you arrive at the Bariay village, you will see the Los Portales crag on the horizon. From there you need to walk around 2-3km to get to the wall.

Alojamiento

There are many Casa de Renta and hostels in the town of Rafael Freyre. Also, you may consider staying at the Campamento at the Playa Blanca which is an inexpensive option (around 4 USD for a room) but the travel will be longer.

There is an option of staying at a local farmers' house (Francisco and Dayi) at the second last house in the Bariay (second closest to the crag). This option could be your most authentic and pleasant experience of Cuba as Francisco and his family are the most amazing and loving people on this planet. As of February 2024, this option was tricky for foreigners because the farm is not an official hostel and does not provide a registration.

You may have to contact the local immigration office in Rafael Freyre to get permission to stay at the farm.

Ética

The Los Portales Crag welcomes sport climbing route developers with a couple of conditions:

a) Bolting with material other than titanium is not allowed.

b) Contact local developers before bolting any lines.

c) Do not bolt in protected areas (contact the local developers for more information)

d) Do not modify the natural structures of the rock as it is not necessary nor create artificial holds

e) Before modifying any previously made route, consult it with the local developers

f) Don't scratch, paint, or write on the walls

g) Do not leave any trash in the climbing areas

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 21.076233, -76.171517

Resumen

The most visited crag in Holguín area. Very easy access and good quality rock.

restricciones

The area is open for climbing but to get to it you need to pass a fenced 'Pioneers Camp'. It is good to introduce yourself to a guard of the place to show appreciation for free access.

Acceso

GPS coordinates of the wall: 21.076326, -76.172065

The crag is located 600 meters from the limits of Santa María and around 7 km from the town of Giabara. 28 kilometers from the rock is the capital of the province, Holguín, with an International Airport.

To get to the Abra crag from Holguín we must take local transportation towards Gibara and get off at Santa María. (21.071184, -76.165376). There are shared buses and taxis that can take you from Holguín.

After getting off in Santa María, ask where the El Abra pioneer camp is. There the crag is 200 meters from the camp next to the river.

Alojamiento

There are many Rental Houses and Hostels in the city of Holguin. Additionally, you can consider staying in Gibara, which is the closest town and the trip will be shorter. There is the option of staying in a rental house which is at the entrance to the camp on the side of the road.

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 20.997124, -76.179143

Resumen

Home to the hardest line in the area

Short YouTube video from Inside Cuba Climbing about the crag: https://youtu.be/5KqByNj09cc

descripción

Yabason and Colorado located close to each other are one of the oldest sport crags in the area

restricciones

There is no organized transport to get to the wall. From the main road there is a 6km distance to cover by foot Or by bicycle.

Acceso

20.997320, -76.180228

The approach to the wall is quite steep.

Alojamiento

The place that welcomes climbers for camping (you need your own camping equipment) is the Nene Candela farm (La Finca de Nene Candela). The camping has no official price but the owners would accept gifts or donations from visitors. Please bring extra food with you to share with the host family.

There is also space for 4-5 tents just next to the wall where you are welcome to camp. Just remember to bring water with you.

For food, you will be able to buy some supplies from local farmers or local Circulo Social but don't expect a variety. The best is to bring things to cook with you.

Table of contents

1. Cuba 465 routes in Region

1.1. La Habana 21 routes in Area

1.1.1. Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro 7 routes in Crag

1.1.2. Búlder Habana 14 routes in Crag

1.2. Viñales 357 routes in Region

1.2.1. Campismo Area 28 routes in Crag

1.2.2. Mogote del Valle 207 routes in Crag

1.2.3. Mogote Palmarito 3 routes in Cliff

1.2.4. El Palenque 51 routes in Crag

1.2.5. Techo del Mund 11 routes in Area

1.2.6. La Costanera 30 routes in Cliff

1.2.7. Mogote de los Hoyos 1 route in Crag

1.2.8. Coco Solo 26 routes in Cliff

1.3. Jibacoa 31 routes in Crag

1.3.1. Penon del Freile 8 routes in Cliff

1.3.2. Cueva de la Virgen 12 routes in Cliff

1.3.3. Panales 7 routes in Sector

1.3.4. Calico Jack 4 routes in Sector

1.4. Estero del Yumurí 0 routes in Area

1.5. Sierra Galeras 2 routes in Cliff

1.6. Sierra Ancón 1 route in Cliff

1.7. Holguin 0 routes in Region

1.8. Los Portales 13 routes in Crag

1.9. El Abra 23 routes in Crag

1.10. El Yabazon 17 routes in Crag

1.11. Colorado 0 routes in Sector

1.12. Guardalavaca 0 routes in Sector

1.13. Cueva Los Panaderos 0 routes in Area