Ayuda

Zlý bratr Guide

  • Contexto de grado: SX
  • Ascensiones: 4
  • Aka: Böser Bruder

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Terenc CzeIgny vilda_hkvdf Jaroslav Karel

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Zlý bratr 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
E
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Estacionalidad

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: 50.593184, 14.509028

restricciones

Nature protection

Check current restrictions before you visit crag and be respectful to the nature. Most crags are located in nature protected areas, climbing there is subject to the consent of nature protection authorities and compliance with the conditions set by them.

Where to check:

  1. Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Ochrana přírody - Nature protection (czech)

  2. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: vyhledávač - search engine (czech)

  3. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: mapa - map (czech)

  4. Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, climbing restrictions map (czech)

or you can directly ask Czech Mountaineering Association on email info@horosvaz.cz

heredado de Czechia

Ética

Rules, principles and standards

Rock climbing in the Czech Republic is regulated by the rules, principles and set of standards for individual areas and crags. Please respect local traditions and rules.

Accept and make yourself familiar with:

  • principles of sport climbing (climb with the help of your own strength only, don't use artificial aids, etc.)
  • principles of first ascents and installing fixed protection
  • competence of regional climbing commissions of Czech Mountaineering Association (list)
  • prohibition of creating and chopping holds
  • which type of removable climbing gear is allowed and don't damaging rock (roped knots, slings, ufos vs. friends, wires, hexes, nuts and cams)
  • possibilities of using chalk (strictly prohibited vs. tolerated)
  • restrictions resulting from weather conditions (e.g. prohibition of climbing on wet rock (eventually hours or days after rain or during winter)

Rules:

  1. Rules of climbing in sandstone rock areas in Bohemia (czech)

  2. Rules of climbing in rock areas of the Czech republic (czech)

  3. Rules of climbing in Jizerské hory area (czech)

heredado de Czechia
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stará cesta / Alter Weg

Ze sedla mezi Dobrým bratrem a věží stěnou na plošinu ke K a spárou n.v.

PA: Ernst Lange & u. Gef., 1909

V Clásica mixta 1
2 1. varianta Staré cesty

Od K. orig. cesty traverz doprava za hranu do spáry a jí n.v.

PA: Ladislav Kuba & Smetana, 1963

V Clásica mixta 1
3 2. varianta Staré cesty

Vlevo od N orig. cesty koutovou spárou ke K.

V Clásica mixta 1
4 3. varianta Staré cesty

Od K orig. cesty středem stěny n.v.

PA: Miroslav Pubík & V. Klapka, 1981

VI Clásica mixta 1
5 Jižní spára

Vpravo od J hrany stěnou k 1. K, do kouta a spárou pod převis ke 2. K, doleva stěnou n.v.

PA: Walter Kleiner & T. Kleiner, 1939

VII Clásica mixta 2
6 Údolní cesta / Talweg

Z předskalí po J hraně k 1. a 2. K, traverz doleva ke 3. K v tahu lana. Dále přes 4. a 5. K n.v.

PA: Gustav Günter, A.Herter & H. Hüschke, 1935

VIIb Clásica mixta 5
7 Bez tahu lana

PA: Rudolf Zabilka & Karel Bělina, 1963

VIIb Clásica mixta 4
8 Varianta Údolní cesty

Od 2. K orig. cesty ke 2. K Jižní spáry.

PA: Josef Rubička, 1975

VII Clásica mixta 3
9 Přímá údolní varianta

Z předskalí u J hrany doleva stěnou k trhlině, a jí ke K, dále přes 3. až 5 K orig. cesty n.v.

PA: Karel Bělina & J. Bechyně, 1983

VIIc Clásica mixta 3
10 Pes Filipes / Hund Filipes

Sev. hranou, později doprava do SZ stěny a podél trhliny k 1. K. Trhlinou a stěnou ke 2. K a spárou n.v.

PA: Karel Bělina & J. Hofman, 1974

VII Clásica mixta 2

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
V 1. varianta Staré cesty Clásica mixta 1
2. varianta Staré cesty Clásica mixta 1
Stará cesta Clásica mixta 1
VI 3. varianta Staré cesty Clásica mixta 1
VII Jižní spára Clásica mixta 2
Pes Filipes Clásica mixta 2
Varianta Údolní cesty Clásica mixta 3
VIIb Bez tahu lana Clásica mixta 4
Údolní cesta Clásica mixta 5
VIIc Přímá údolní varianta Clásica mixta 3
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