A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Georg Kretzschmar
Nicky
vilda_hkvdf
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Kamzičí hrad / Gamsburg 14 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Kamzičí hrad
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada clásica
Lat / Long: 50.865110, 14.399390
Only certain crags are permitted for climbing. Those closed for climbing are all highlighted with #closed tag.
Climbing is allowed only in certain months. See Description of each cliff.
Use of chalk is prohibited.
Climbing is only allowed on dry rock and during daylight.
No changing of the rock surface.
No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.
No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)
First ascents must be approved upfront from national park and ČHS administration. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/
Only official access paths can be used. See maps attached in the particular areas.
descripción
Climbing allowed 1.7.-31.1.
restricciones
paid (50.85381, 14.39854)
Ética
Nature Park rules overwrite the general sandstone climbing rules:
Referred official document: https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/332/056710.pdf?seek=1594370530
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Stará cesta / Alter Weg
PA: Petr Šatánek & I.Klenka, 1990 | VI | ||||
2 |
Kamzičí prdelka / Gamsarsch
PA: Zdeněk Petráň, D.Kučera & I.Kučerová, 1998 | VIIb | 2 | |||
3 |
Kamzičí prdelka, Přímý nástup / Gamsarsch, Direkteinstieg
PA: Zdeněk Petráň, D.Kučera & I.Kučerová, 1998 | VIIIa | 3 | |||
4 | Kamzičí skok / Gamssprung | I 1 | ||||
5 |
Nový skok / Neuer Sprung
PA: Michael Bellmann v.u.g., 1997 | 3 | ||||
6 | Severní spára / Nordriss | V | ||||
7 | Varianta Severného spáry / Variante zum Nordriss | V | ||||
8 |
Hnusný koutek / Ekelhafter Winkel
PA: Irena Kučerová und Zdeněk Petráň & D.Kučera, 1998 | VIIa | ||||
9 |
Převislý komín / Überhängender Kamin
PA: Zdeněk Petráň & J.Nováček, 1997 | VI | ||||
10 |
Zelený led / Grünes Eis
PA: Jiří Štěpánek & V.Sojka | VIIc | 1 | |||
11 |
Samý bobky / Lauter Losung
PA: Zdeněk Petráň & J.Nováček, 1997 | VIIb | 2 | |||
12 |
101 Yorkshirů / Weg der 101 Yorkshires
PA: Zdeněk Petráň & M.Petráňová, 2000 | VIIb | 2 | |||
13 |
Prázdninová cesta / Ferienweg
PA: Zdeněk Petráň, M.Petráňová, V.Petráň & Z.Petráňová, 2000 | VIIa | 1 | |||
14 |
Adaptace
Středem východní stěny přes 3K a hodiny n.v. PA: Lukáš Trojovský & Tom Szalay, 18 Sep 2023 | VIIIb | 25m, 3 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | ![]() |
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
I/1 | Kamzičí skok | ||||
V | Severní spára | ||||
Varianta Severného spáry | |||||
VI | Převislý komín | ||||
Stará cesta | |||||
VIIa | Hnusný koutek | ||||
Prázdninová cesta | 1 | ||||
VIIb | 101 Yorkshirů | 2 | |||
Kamzičí prdelka | 2 | ||||
Samý bobky | 2 | ||||
VIIc | Zelený led | 1 | |||
VIIIa | Kamzičí prdelka, Přímý nástup | 3 | |||
VIIIb | Adaptace | 25m, 3 | |||
3 | Nový skok |