Vías en Europe para grado seleccionado

Traversiert die ganze Wand. Absprunggelände mäßig

Bij witte ster beginnen en hoog uitklimmen,

Als "Team Dodo", uitsluitend grepen onder de ster gebruiken.

Ascents

• Adam Ondra - 20 October 2013
• Sébastien Bouin - 18 June 2019

Starts on "Nordic Plumber" and climbs through the second pitch of "Thor’s Hammer".

Between "Solimano" and "Marco Gelato".

An 8c section (the "approach walk") is followed by an almost blank 50° overhanging sequence that gave the route its name ("Adam's rage" because Adam Ondra came to try but could not decipher the beta).

The boulder problem is then followed by an easier 8b .

It took 5 years, on and off, for Seb to free the route. This first ascent comes just a few months after Seb repeated Move (Flatanger), another 9b/+. Checkout the video of his journey to climb this route.

An exit variation of 'Le poisson pilote'. More infos @ www.kletterblock.de

This is Beyond with its extension

Video: https://vimeo.com/334611979

#sd #lr

#sd

#sd start with 'In search of time lost' and end in 'From darkness to sunshine'

"El bloque en sí podemos desglosarlo como 3 movimientos de 8A o 8A+, seguidos de 3 movimientos de 8B, para luego hacer un 7C+ algo psicológico." (Alberto Rocasolano)

#sitstart

Alberto Rocasolano on vimeo.com

Britain's first 9b!

This is a linkup of four routes. The line starts with Raindogs (5.13b), moves onto and through the crux of Rainshadow (5.14d), onto Batman (5.14d/5.15a) and then finishes up on Batroute (5.14b).

Variant of 'La cène du lézard'. Start by 'Focus Pocus'.

A combination of Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. Maybe one of the hardest slabs in the world.

Same start and same end as "Mercenaris del Passat". There is also a variant with a different finish, equipped by Chris Sharma.

First repeat by Adam Ondra, Feb-2016

The route has a first part made of 25 very sustained movements graded 9a+, followed by a second 8c part with 12 movements including a dyno.

A knee bar has been found in the first crux (the sequence was downgraded from 8a to 7c+), however a hold has broken higher up on the dyno which makes it significantly harder to throw. All in all the route is still considered 9b

Ascents

• Chris Scharma - 7 May 2011
• Adam Ondra
• Jakob Schubert
• Sachi Amma
• Piotr Schab

This route connects Pachamama 9a+ and Papichulo 9a+ and was described by Adam Ondra as demanding "incredible power endurance without any rest."

Initially this connection seemed utterly extreme - perhaps even 9b+ like neighbouring Dura Dura freed by Ondra in 2013 - but was then rendered more "humane" when Ondra discovered a new sequence to get across the traverse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVlGxVE_0uc

Ascents

:

• Adam Ondra - 8 Feb 2017
• Seb Bouin - 16 April 2019

A left finish to "Café Colombia".

To the second anchor of "The Journey".

Repeats by Adam Ondra, Alex Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi.

Repeats by Stefano Ghisolfi (13/01/2018) and Daniel Woods (25/02/2018).

Direct start of Estado Critico.

A "hard and beautiful" king line test piece put up by Chris Sharma. Originally graded 9b+, J. Schubert has suggested it could be a hard 9a+. Felipe seemed to confirm the 9b grade.

Ascents:

• Chris Sharma - 7 March 2015
• Jakob Schubert - 2 December 2018
• Felipe Camargo - 18 April 2019

FA: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vk4YrOtVTLg

Climbs the cave from left to right.

A combination of the boulder Picacho (8B+) with "Alí Hulk (extension)".

Described by Jonathan Siegrist as "Absolutely incredible route with no place to hide. Resistant like hell."

The route links a section of 8c into a steep and crimpy upper half to create a 45-meter endurance test-piece.

It was the first 9b to be freed by a female climber: Angy Eiter.

Extremely physical and athletic at the beginning, extremely crimpy and core oriented at the same time.

Links the first part of Move (9a) into the second crux of Silence (8A+/B). There is a no hand rest between the two sections.

Sébastien Bouin suggest a downgrade to 9a+ using kneepads.

Extension of 'Lux est Lux'. Goes straight through the center of the cave crossing a 20m horizontal roof. The line is split into two distinct sections, the first up to a rest is about 8b+ from where the hard part of the route begins.

A start variant of 'One Punch'.

Initially graded 9b/9b+, downgrade proposed by Adam Ondra to 9b in Nov-2021.

An exit variation of 'Le poisson pilote'.

Linking the first half of Bronx (8c+) to the second crux of Sashidananda (9a/+), whith a hard sequence in between.

Start in Brooklyn (9b) to finish in Bronx (8c+).

New start between Macumba Club (8c) and Bronx (8c+), with two hard crux (8A+ and 7C+ boulder), finishing right into La Connexion (8c+).

Rési avec une grosse section bloc au milieu. Gros dévers.

Extension of "Legend".

C.R.S stands for "Cowboy a Reaction Stupide" (Cowboys reacting stupidly) and is also the acronym for the anti-protest French forces, not really known for their brain power.

For such a short route, only 22m, the route must pack a punch!

Adam says “The style is definitely power resistance. There’s a very physical roof on pinches and pockets leading to a very crimpy exit on the final bulge"

It took Adam 3 days to work the route and at the time was his fastest 9b ascent.

FA: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yYV9yASRBI

Just to the right of "A je to!".

https://youtu.be/OlV-uPWb7yQ?si=PIjkcHeKLqj3dYik

A pure resistance route. Video.

Extension of Smile of Jokonda.

Ends at the second anchor.

An alternative start to to La Fabela but with the same first anchor (where there is also a good rest). The second part is the same as "La Fabela pa la Enmienda", linked it is called Catxasa R2.

A combination of "The Journey" and "Café Colombia".

As Iker Pou describes it: "a perfect roof, well not quite perfect, because it even descends, about 20 meters long across a series of pockets. A authentic ‘fiesta’ of monodoits and two-finger pockets across a roof that is scary just to look at." The climbing is obviously ferocious and extremely physical: "Very few footholds, and those that exist are very bad so you have to constantly dyno them from one pocket to the next."

A combination of 'Seta ibérica' and 'Circo ibérico'.

Comparte gran parte del recorrido con su vecino "Gran Guggenheim".

Shares a large part of the route with its neighbor "Gran Guggenheim".

Las Meninas to the second anchor.

A 60 meters long endurance challenge that connects three routes. 'Pata Negra' at the beginning, the crux of 'No pain no gain' and ends at the lower off of 'Botanics'.

Downgrade to 9a+ proposed by Sébastien Bouin and to 9a+/9b by Martin Tekles in 2023.

The route is a connection of two established 8c+: Starting to the left of Za staro kolo in majhnega psa from a separate bolt, the line traverses right and leads into the upper section of Sanjski par.

Left start into "Mar de Bering".