A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Nicolas Lorin John Andrei Verdeanu Olivier L Campbell Gome Hannes Baptiste Idaszewski Gravity is a Myth Alex Ennis Knar F
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Freissinières
165 in Crag
-
1.1.
Grande Falaise 118 routes in Cliff
- 1.1.1. Clématites 26 routes in Sector
- 1.1.2. Grotte des Vaudois 23 routes in Sector
- 1.1.3. Marmotine 10 routes in Sector
- 1.1.4. Pilier de la Saint Jean 11 routes in Sector
- 1.1.5. Pantoutrip 13 routes in Cliff
- 1.1.6. Solitude et fournaise 0 routes in Sector
- 1.1.7. Gentleman 7 routes in Sector
- 1.1.8. Paroi du Plan 26 routes in Sector
- 1.1.9. Freissinoque 0 routes in Sector
- 1.1.10. Les murmures de la Biaysse 0 routes in Sector
- 1.1.11. Bonjour l'ambiance 0 routes in Sector
- 1.1.12. Grotte Ogive 0 routes in Sector
- 1.1.13. Petit Verdon 0 routes in Sector
-
1.2.
Needles 29 routes in Cliff
- 1.2.1. Totem 5 routes in Sector
- 1.2.2. Bell's beach 6 routes in Sector
- 1.2.3. Baboon 6 routes in Sector
- 1.2.4. La gorge 12 routes in Sector
- 1.3. Dalles magiques 2 routes in Cliff
- 1.4. Bec de l'Ase Dry-tooling Crag 10 routes in Crag
- 1.5. Bec de l'Ase 4 routes in Cliff
- 1.6. Paroi Rouge 2 routes in Cliff
-
1.1.
Grande Falaise 118 routes in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Freissinières
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 44.750890, 6.548623
restricciones
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/
Ética
Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.
1.1. Grande Falaise
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 44.756845, 6.548631
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
14 | La Grande Falaise: First part | PD | ||||
15 | La Grande Falaise: Second part | D |
1.1.1. Clématites
- Summary:
-
26 routes in Sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | La goulotte des amoureux | 5b | ||||
2 | Star sans stress | 6b+ | ||||
3 | Fiasco | 6b | ||||
4 | Sentier lumineux | 6b+ | 2 | |||
5 | ★ Sentier lumineux right | 6b | 2 | |||
6 | ★ Farniente | 5b | ||||
7 | La bascule | 6c | 2 | |||
8 | Chinook | 6b+ | ||||
9 | Momo Mick | 6c | 3 | |||
10 | La déchirure | 6b+ | ||||
11 | Cœur qui trotte | 6c | ||||
12 | Chauve qui peut | 6c+ | ||||
13 | ★★ Bal des corbeaux | 6b+ | 3 | |||
14 | Frisson huguenot | 6c+ | 2 | |||
15 | ★★ Tacotac | 6c+ | ||||
16 | ★ Clématites 2001 | 6a | ||||
17 | Grain de folie | 6c | 3 | |||
18 | ★★ Premier pas | 6a+ | ||||
19 |
Les Clématites
PA: Gérard Fiaschi, 1984 | 6c A0 | 5 | |||
20 | Sirocco | 6a+ | ||||
21 | Cris et chuchotements | 6c | 4 | |||
22 | Un coin de parapluie | 6a+ | ||||
23 | Soko | 8a+ | ||||
24 | Ko Akuma | 7c | ||||
25 | Color de sangre | 6a | 4 | |||
26 | Pilier des martyrs | 6a+ | 3 |
1.1.2. Grotte des Vaudois
- Summary:
-
23 routes in Sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Clochette | 6a | ||||
2 | Capitaine crochet | 5c | ||||
3 | ★★ Habalamor | 6c | ||||
4 | ★★ Adieu la vie | 6c | 5 | |||
5 | Les voyageurs | 5c | ||||
6 | Flash | 6b | ||||
7 | Gaffe vos doigts | 5c | ||||
8 | ★★ Adieu la pluie | 6b | ||||
9 | ★ 1-2-3 soleil | 6a+ | ||||
10 | Tectoflic | 6a | ||||
11 | Profanation | 6b | ||||
12 | Sacrilège | 6a | ||||
13 | ★★ Bric à Brac | 6c+ | ||||
14 | Bas les masques | 7b+ | ||||
15 | Drôle de drames | 8a | 2 | |||
16 | Arabesque | 8b+ | 2 | |||
17 | L'attrapeur d'ombres | 8c | ||||
18 | Si proche si loin | 8a | ||||
19 | Hercule Poirot | 7c+ | ||||
20 | Mission Impossible | 7c+ | ||||
21 | ★★ Sans Mobile | 7b | ||||
22 | Peter Pan | 7a | ||||
23 |
Hydrophobie
Last pitch not rebolted | 6a | 3 |
1.1.3. Marmotine
- Summary:
-
10 routes in Sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 1 | 8a | ||||
2 | 2 | 7c | ||||
3 | Projet | |||||
4 |
Tichodromes
Not rebolted | |||||
5 | Désert sentimental | 7c+ | ||||
6 | Secret violé | 7b+ | ||||
7 | Fauve andalou | 7c | ||||
8 | Soupir | 7b | ||||
9 | Marmotine | 7a+ | ||||
10 | Osez Evelyne | 6a |
1.1.4. Pilier de la Saint Jean
- Summary:
-
11 routes in Sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Canal + | 6a | 3 | |||
2 | L'âme du guerrier | 8a - b | ||||
3 | Molotov | 7b+ | ||||
4 | Cocktail | 6b | 4 | |||
5 | La bavure | 6b | 3 | |||
6 | Le pilier de la St Jean | 6c | 4 | |||
7 | Mamagama | 6b | 4 | |||
8 | Mamagama right | 6a+ | 4 | |||
9 | Papa m'a dit | 6a+ | ||||
10 | Délivrance | 6c | ||||
11 | Serments éternels | 6b+ | 4 |
1.1.5. Pantoutrip
- Summary:
-
13 routes in Cliff
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | La traverse | 6a | 3 | |||
2 | Pantoutrip | 6b+ | 3 | |||
3 | Luxe, calme et volupté | 6c | 4 | |||
4 | Question d'équilibre | 6a | ||||
5 | Nicoflemme | 6c+ | 2 | |||
6 | A fleur de peau | 7a+ | ||||
7 | Step by step | 6c | 2 | |||
8 | Poussières d'étoiles | 6c | 2 | |||
9 | Vent de sable | 6a | ||||
10 | La croisière de l'angoisse | 6c+ | 3 | |||
11 | Illusions perdues | 6b | 2 | |||
12 | Sirius | 6c+ A0 | 5 | |||
13 | Folie douce | 5c |
1.1.6. Solitude et fournaise
1.1.7. Gentleman
- Summary:
-
7 routes in Sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Câlin câline | 7a+ | ||||
2 | La super p'tite chieuse | 7b+ | ||||
3 | La roue de secours | 8a | ||||
4 | Papa est fier de toi | 7a | ||||
5 | Gentleman agreement | 8a | ||||
6 | Fulgano joint | 8b+ | ||||
7 | Hastero H | 8b |
1.1.8. Paroi du Plan
- Summary:
-
26 routes in Sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le minimum | 5c | ||||
2 | Epistaxis | 6a+ | ||||
3 | Unknown 1 | 5c | ||||
4 | ★ Unknown 2 | 6c | ||||
5 | Ni une, ni deux | 6c | 3 | |||
6 | Lézard volant | 6a | 3 | |||
7 | Unknown 3 | 7b+ | ||||
8 | Unknown 4 | 8a | 2 | |||
9 | La fille du poseur de points | 8b | 2 | |||
10 | Unknown 5 | 7b | 40m | |||
11 | Au soleil couchant | 6b+ | 2 | |||
12 | Unknown 6 | 5c | ||||
13 | ★ Unknown 7 | 5a | ||||
14 | ★ Au plaisir des vieux | 5c | 3 | |||
15 | ★★ La voisine | 6b+ | ||||
16 | ★★ Taghia dans le slip | 7a | ||||
17 | Aïe Aïe | 6c | ||||
18 | ★ Encore, encore | 5c | ||||
19 | ★ Unknown 8 | 5b | ||||
20 | L´écaille | 6a | ||||
21 | ★ L´écaille (variation right) | 6a+ | ||||
22 | ★★ Les sabots d’Hélène | 6b | ||||
23 | ★★ Corne d‘aurochs | 6c | ||||
24 | ★★ Gare aux gorilles | 6b | 30m, 2 | |||
25 | Noyade dans un verre d‘eau | 7c+ | ||||
26 | ★★ Dernières balises | 6b |
1.1.9. Freissinoque
1.1.10. Les murmures de la Biaysse
1.1.11. Bonjour l'ambiance
1.1.12. Grotte Ogive
1.1.13. Petit Verdon
1.2. Needles
- Summary:
-
29 routes in Cliff
1.2.1. Totem
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Magie grise | 7c | ||||
2 | Verdon de soi | 7 | ||||
3 | Totem | 7b | ||||
4 | Chacha | 7c+ | ||||
5 | Shinga Pouk | 7c |
1.2.2. Bell's beach
- Summary:
-
6 routes in Sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le paradis des futurs croulants | 7b+ | ||||
2 | Bell's beach | 8a+ | ||||
3 | Bondy beach | 7c+ | ||||
4 | Agile et jeune | 7c | 2 | |||
5 | Mad madsen | 7c | ||||
6 | La Wachté | 6b+ |
1.2.3. Baboon
- Summary:
-
6 routes in Sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Chacma Boboon | 7a+ | ||||
2 | Chakna Coeur | 6c+ | ||||
3 | Baboon | 6a+ | ||||
4 | Taïpan bloc | 7c+ | ||||
5 | 5 | 7c | ||||
6 | Pine rudge | 7c |
1.2.4. La gorge
- Summary:
-
12 routes in Sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Hiukahé | 6c+ | ||||
2 | Queen line | 7b | ||||
3 | Oyaté | 7a+ | ||||
4 | ... | 7c | ||||
5 | Faux Tchoule | 6b+ | ||||
6 | Les vieux pitons | 6a+ | ||||
7 | Roxy dog | 7b | 2 | |||
8 | Tanka | 7a+ | ||||
9 | Buveur de 8.6 | 7c | ||||
10 | "Hors classe" | 7c | ||||
11 | Leaderguide | 7c | ||||
12 | Paha saka | 7c |
1.3. Dalles magiques
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ombre et lumière | 6a | 100m, 8 | |||
2 | ★ Dalles magiques | 5b | 120m, 7 |
1.4. Bec de l'Ase Dry-tooling Crag
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada en hielo
Lat / Long: 44.746593, 6.550906
Resumen
New dry-tooling crag bolted by Jonathan Joly, Jeff Mercier and Greg Boswell, in 2022. Information source: https://www.instagram.com/p/CYkLHItNg7X/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
descripción
Small crag located on the right bank of the Byasse river. Features 10 dry-tooling routes with heights varying between 15 and 30m. From left to right, the routes follow a difficulty progression from beginners to intermediate and expert, with a medium difficulty route again on the far right. Most of the routes are set on quite friable rock (schist with sedimentary intrusions), therefore care is advised when attempting them. Aside from the routes that are set on more compact rock, all other routes share the same chossy and friable rock, which, although might look compact on the surface, is considerably friable and crumbly on the inside. Routes haven't been cleaned thoroughly so far, therefore expect rockfall and breakage to be still occurring. Grades for most routes are written down in yellow paint, below the routes.
Acceso
The crag is located on the right river bank, approximately 200m downstream from the main parking in the nordic ski designated area of the Freissinieres valley (where a bridge is present). The river can be crossed on the said bridge, and getting to the crag is quite straightforward, as its dominating rock arete is easily visible from the main forestry road and a yellow-coloured strip on trees marks the route. Following the main ski road downstream, a sharp right turn will mark the entry on the final path, which will perform a zig-zag up through the densely forested area, followed by a sharp left turn, when reaching the base of the cliffs. From there, following the steep path, equipped with ropes for assistance, one can reach the crag in 5 minutes.
Alojamiento
Freissinieres and surroundings.
Ética
Dry-tooling crag.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
1
Leftmost route. Equip: Jonathan Joly, Jeff Mercier & Greg Boswell, 10 En 2022 | {UIAA} M4 | 15m | |||
2 |
2
Proposed grade. Equip: Jonathan Joly, Jeff Mercier & Greg Boswell, 10 En 2022 | {UIAA} M5 | 15m | |||
3 |
3
Equip: Jonathan Joly, Jeff Mercier & Greg Boswell, 10 En 2022 | {UIAA} M5 | 16m | |||
4 |
4
Equip: Jonathan Joly, Jeff Mercier & Greg Boswell, 10 En 2022 | {UIAA} M6 | 16m | |||
5 |
5
Equip: Jonathan Joly, Jeff Mercier & Greg Boswell, 10 En 2022 | {UIAA} M8 | 17m | |||
6 |
6
Equip: Jonathan Joly, Jeff Mercier & Greg Boswell, 10 En 2022 | {UIAA} M10 | 25m | |||
7 |
7
Equip: Jonathan Joly, Jeff Mercier & Greg Boswell, 10 En 2022 | {UIAA} M8 | 25m | |||
8 |
8
Equip: Jonathan Joly, Jeff Mercier & Greg Boswell, 10 En 2022 | {UIAA} M9 | 30m | |||
9 |
9
Equip: Jonathan Joly, Jeff Mercier & Greg Boswell, 10 En 2022 PA: Jeff Mercier, 16 En 2023 | {UIAA} M12 | 28m | |||
10 |
★ 10
Equip: Jonathan Joly, Jeff Mercier & Greg Boswell, 10 En 2022 | {UIAA} M7 | 22m |
1.5. Bec de l'Ase
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 44.745187, 6.547351
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Éperon de la forêt
PA: Gérard Fiaschi, 2009 | 6b | 120m, 5 | |||
2 | ★★★ Des héros ordinaires | 7a | ||||
3 | Barbe bleue | 7b | ||||
4 | Homme de fer | 7c+ |
1.6. Paroi Rouge
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 44.741849, 6.554880
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ô mages, ô druides | 7a+ | ||||
2 | L’oiseau tonnerre | 7b+ |