Ascensiones en Ruhrtal teniendo Beta

Harder than 7+ especially for shorties. From the undercling to the ledge supremely finger power is required for that crimp if you can't span it out. Next move is a very far lock off. After clipping the second bolt from a very good position follows a shouldery gaston move into a poor sidepull. From then on way easier on good holds.

Bis unter den Umlenkpunkt lief es ganz gut, aber keinen Plan, wie ich um das Dach komme 😂

mit anderer Beta - Heelhook rechts statt Reibungstritt

Awesome sequence.

Moonboard moves.

... und ohne den heelhook. Anders, aber ähnlich schwer.

Mit heelhook links oben ...

Da müsst ihr rauf! Die markante Superlinie die beim Betreten des Gebietes sofort ins Auge springt. Etwas tricky entlang der Kante.

Lovely line, had a hidden crimp

Very hard, very fun. First outdoor 7A. Took around 5 days

Powerful nice route. Well suited for sport climbers. In my opinion, this route is an avalonia classic.

Should be 'Flow's Uitje', on Youtube graded 7b+.

Just for fun because the rope was there. Couldn't link anything from the start of the first crux onwards.

TR "send" 2nd go.

Didn't want to commit at the first bolt. Narrow corner.

"Earthy" and without feet, where I went to.

A fantastic test of body tension and heelhooking. Staring was pretty tough as well as the last move where my heel did pop... in the end i got the boulder with no feet cutting! Now on to n2 and then the kingline

I dont intend to sound arrogant here, but if you imagine what this "7A" would get in FB it would probably be a 4+ or a 5. I also managed it statically with a heelhook:) . The mantle is nice at least id say 6A for my height and span. Maybe 6B for short ppl.

King line in the cave! Props to the FA-er! 3 sessions in 3 trips this year! 1st session in 60% humidity amd rain i couldn't even get it in 3 parts and only got the moves. 2nd session i fell from the swing to the final jug. 3rd session i literally made a 15cm change of a foothold on the Pueblo part and this made the boulder feel easy rather than super hard. It was a hold i didnt need to use for Pueblo )) what a nice learning curve! So hard to grade this as well... The roof is 4 tensiony hand moves of maybe 6B/C, then you go to the transition to Pueblo -6 HUGE powerful moves on massive jugs - maybe 6B, and then you do Pueblo without the jugs with a hard swing at the end, 9 hand moves maybe 7A (given that Pueblo is very low end 7A). Zero rest or shakeouts. Does this make 7B+? No idea. Im a sport climber so i had no issues with endurance and there are no hard moves. I needed a lot more attempts on Bongo Bennie which i personally consider 7B. This isnt one grade harder for me. Also last weekend i got demolished on a few 7Bs in FB... Ill tentatively go for 7B as it feels right for now.

Before the send i tried this line maybe on 5 6 other trips always at the end and always tired. Over the sessions it felt progressively better, starting from totally impossible to even get my leg up, to trying impossible ideas, to declaring it "hard for tall people", to sticking the lip in the rain and to falling AFTER the move. Today i approached it seriously, fresh and in perfect conditions and i got it 5th try statically and with full control! Favourite line in Avalonia! Agree with 7A+

Start rechts neben dem ersten bohrhaken. Links starten sicher auch möglich aber wahrscheinlich etwas schwerer.

3 Session

Fantastic Boulder, bit high on the top but very nice.

Der letzte Abschnitt war seit Jahren von Dornengestrüpp überwuchert. Dieser Tage wurde er gesäubert. Diese Chance habe ich für eine Begehung genutzt. Lohnend ist die Route nicht. Die Onsightbegehung wurde durch brüchiges Gestein verhindert.

Technical and tricky slab, followed by a dihedral and edge - be careful between second and third bolt.

Still have to figure out the top crux move to the jug. Super cool route!

Wow, such a great climb. Finally did it in the second go. Awesome!

Die schöne leichte Linie in Momos Amphitheater. Und kleinere Leute müssen auch hier besser klettern können.

Heute nur ein Versuch, früher oft gestaunt - wie geht dieser Sitzstart?

Ein guter Einstieg in den No Hand Top Ausstieg 😀

Vorige Woche wollte der erste Zug nicht, nun aber wieder!

Sehr kniffliger Quergang mit sehr kleinen Tritten und Leistengriffen. Mit 6+ auf jeden Fall unterbewertet, mindestens 7-.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Chb9C35j3aj/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

https://www.instagram.com/p/Chb9C35j3aj/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

https://www.instagram.com/p/Chb9C35j3aj/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

https://www.instagram.com/p/Chb9C35j3aj/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Real progress. Linked all moves from the start to the last bad hold. More lock off power needed to turn and "lever" up to get into the final heel hook. First half felt easy now. Crimps are not too bad. Right foot toe jam is essential.