Ascensiones en Sächsische Schweiz teniendo Beta

Maybe the best route of my cimbing life? a dream came true

The first pitch (to 2nd ring) is one of the best climbs I've ever done

Überfall von Vg und Ausstieg über Perry-Variante.

Quite the endeavour. Already some climbing involved to get to the big ledge, then an easy traverse to the arête where the actual climb starts. Always up a crack/dihedral, quite enjoyable, but getting gnarlier towards the end. It's not entirely clear where to leave the crack to the right and go for the rib. I think I went up too far and ended up in brittle terrain, also felt more difficult than V. The rib is then again easier and you reach the abseil ring after a short while to set up belay. This is where "Perry-Variante" branches from the original route and sets off into the south face; a brilliantly exposed traverse brings you to a short, steeper crack section and then easier climbing to the summit.

No reasonable pro before first bolt, then better.

Reachy to second bolt, crimpy past it. Sandy but easy topout.

80 Beg

Für 7c sehr anspruchsvoll. Ab Ring nur feiner Riss. Sehr steil, Schlechte Tritte.

v.o.g.

Go

Quite good slings between the bolts. I’ve climbed on sharp sunlight, not the best idea but hey

42 beg +-

broke a hold in easy terrain, otherwise it would be flash

Teilweise brüchig, aber interessante Wand, Reibung, Riss, Rippen und Kaminkletterei

Middle section (chimney/shouldercrack) isn't as easy, as one could think, if you're not slim enough. Otherwise great route.

Very variable crack from hand- and fist- up to shoulder-sizes, even slightly overhanging sections included. Pretty crumbly at some points, but if you're into quirky, non-ordinary stuff, go for it.

Bis zum 2. R spannend, gut gesichert und abwechslungsreicher Riss. Danach eher schulterrissig, aber mit UFOs immer noch akzeptabel gesichert.

AW Variante Aus der Schlucht des AW (etwa in halber Höhe) re. zu Abs. Übertreten. Kamin zum Quergang des AW. Quelle: Rölke; KleFü; 2003

Mutiger Quergang

was ein grandioser weg, oben raus falsch ausgestiegen durch ziemlich schweren überhang. trozdem genuss ohne ende.

Vorstieg wurde abgewechselt

Vorstieg wurde abgewechselt

In 3. SL umgedreht wegen Regen

Sehr schöne Kaminkletterei 60m Seil ist ein muss!

Jen spodek, zbytek je sr***

k 8. kruhu, vršek (V) už jsem lezl

I can't belive there is no star in Rölkeführer

#jan-belay nice handjam exercise Until 1 bolt

Zum 1. R. eher unzureichend gesichert. 1 Kevlar und eine verspannte 6er(eher schlecht)

Tricky

Festes Gestein, aber keine Absicherung bis in die Verschneidung. Ab da sehr gut gesichert.

Short, sandy, hardly protectable.

Tricky topout.

Exposed line with a glorious finish. Didn't know that there's a first pitch, seems to be rarely done nowadays anyway. The start is a bit sandy but it gets better soon, good rock tunnel after a few meters, then reasonable slings every now and then. It's true that the route has been demolished quite a bit already, but most of the bigger structures are still solid and the climbing and the view make up for the visual appearance of some parts of the wall. Two slightly powerful steeper parts, with the last moves to the ring being the most strenuous (and here you need to be a bit careful, too, the rib is really thin). Incredible finish in dark black and perfectly solid rock, with around 80 meters of air beneath your feet.

Mit nachholen am Ring

poor material despite it looks quite good from ground

ungesichert

Wegen zu viel Schnee mussten wir den letzten Gipfelaufschwung bauen. Ziemlich coole Bergfahrt!

Crispy at the start, vegetated at the top.

Sieht besser aus als es ist. Sandige Rippen, schlechte Sicherung.

Krätfig, aber tolle Rippe und dann Verschneidung. super gesichert.