Ayuda

Acceso: Semilegal status bouldering and chalk prohibition

Firstly: The use of chalk is strictly prohibited on all official summits in the area (Bahratalwand, Spitzbub, Vierkant, Gendarm and Kuckuckstein). The Saxon climbing rules apply. The boulder sectors east of the Gottleuba river (all sectors except Kleine Bastein, Gulag and Wasserfall) belong to the nature reserve 'Landschaftsschutzgebiet Sächsische Schweiz' where climbing is only allowed on the official traditional climbing summits. The use of chalk is explicitly banned. 2015 and before rangers were controlling this and sentenced boulderers with fines (Ordungswidrigkeit). Just because this seems not to happen anymore doesn't mean that bouldering and use of chalk is legal. Be aware of that and take your own choice.

The sectors west of the Gottleuba river (sectors Kleine Bastei, Gulag and Wasserfall) belong to the nature reserve 'Landschaftsschutzgebiet Unteres Osterzgebirge' where climbing also is only allowed on official climbing spots, if you do otherwise you also commit a 'Ordnungswidrigkeit'. But the use of chalk is not explicitly forbidden.

Most of the land is privately owned. The owner doesn't want people bouldering on his land, in 2018 there were signs at the main parking lot that acces to the land and bouldering is forbidden.

Contrary to this the german alpine club DAV argues that access and climbing outside of protection areas like national parks is legal due to the common right to enter landscape and woods.

see also: https://www.sandsteinwandern.de/wandern/?p=18473

Ver Detalles de la advertencia y Discusiones

Creó hace 3 años - Editó hace 15 días

Historia de la vía

No hay un histórico conocido de la vía.

Advertencias

17 Mar 2021 Advertencia Acceso: Semilegal status bouldering and chalk prohibition

Ubicación

Lat/Long.: 50.87644, 13.98556

Referencias de nivel de dificultad

6a+ Grado de dificultad
6a+ Sand Steini

Ética

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
heredado de Sächsische Schweiz

Estacionalidad

E
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Estacionalidad

Calidad

Megaclásica
Clásico
Muy buena
Buena
Medio
Ni te molestes
Basura

La calidad general 59 de las 9 valoraciones.

Dificultad - 6A+

Soft Touch
Fácil
Medio
Duro
Sand Bag

Basado en valoraciones de 3.

Grado sugerido

6A
6A+

Basado en valoraciones de 3.

Tipos de ascensiones

Flash 1
Send 7

Palabras clave en los comentarios

Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Autor(es): M. & S. Scholz, H. Owsian

Fecha: 2021

Autor(es): H. Schulze & V. Hölker

Fecha: 2022

Bizarre Felstürme, romantische Schluchten, endlose Wälder Eine über 150-jährige Klettertradition hat hier ein recht strenges Regelwerk bewahrt. Der Führer stellt eine Auswahl von über 300 der lohnendsten Sandsteinrouten, vorwiegend in den Schwierigkeitsgraden I bis VII vor. Gebietsfremden oder Anfängern soll der Einstieg ins Elbsandsteinklettern so erleichtert werden.

Autor(es): B. Arnold

Fecha: 2017

Der Kletterführer bietet den ultimativen Überblick über die großen klassischen Kletterwege an den bis zu 100 Meter hohen Felsen des Elbsandsteingebirges.

Alojamientos cercanos more Ocultar

Compartir contenido

Mar 20 Jun
Echa un vistazo a lo que está ocurriendo en Waterpipe.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文