Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | ||
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Kasama Boulder Main Area Bench Boulder | |||||
FB_ALT:3 | 8 kyū
Use a flake to step off the rock on the ground and up onto the boulder proper. | ||||
FB_ALT:1 | ★ 10 kyū
A nice problem. | ||||
FB:6B+ | ★ SD 2 kyū
Sit start. Pull up some unnatural feeling holds. | ||||
Kasama Boulder Main Area Mantle Boulder | |||||
FB_ALT:3 | OL Mantle
Japanese grade 9級 (9 kyuu) | ||||
FB_ALT:1 | Mantle 10 kyuu
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FB_ALT:2 | Mantle 9 kyuu
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Kasama Boulder Main Area Ishigura Iwa Boulders | |||||
FB_ALT:1 | LO Mantle
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FB:7A+ | Zantetsuken
A contender for Kasama's hardest mantle? Climb the sloping arete. It's okay to use the rock at the bottom to get established on this problem. Name means 'sword that cuts iron'. PA: Miyakawa & 宮川 | ||||
FB_ALT:5 | Hand Travese (5 kyū)
Start from the vertical hold on the left then traverse rightwards. Finish by mantling it out once the tree starts to get in the way. | ||||
Kasama Boulder Main Area Gill Boulder | |||||
FB:7A | Superstar
An eliminate variation of Way of Gill using just the thin crack left of the arête for hands. The big crack right on the overhanging face is out. Finish as for Way of Gill. | ||||
FB:6C+ | ★★★ Way of Gill
Climb the arête using the cracks on both its left and right side. Standing on the big rock at the bottom of the right hand crack and pulling on the tree at the top reduces the grade. Purists climb without either these two features. PA: Katsunori Hosoya | ||||
Kasama Boulder Main Area Goldfinger Boulder | |||||
FB_ALT:5 | Kante Hidari (5 kyū)
Climb the left arête of the boulder starting from the jug just below. A sit start from a low undercling is also possible. | ||||
FB:6B+ | ★ Goldfinger
Start LH on crimp and RH on triangular flake. It is okay to stack a few pads to reach these if you are vertically challenged. | ||||
FB_ALT:4+ | Kante (6kyū)
Japanese takes the German word 'kante' for 'arête'. This problem climbs the right hand arête of the boulder. | ||||
Kasama Boulder Main Area Slab Boulder | |||||
FB_ALT:1 | Kante Hidari (10 kyū)
Climb the left arête of the slab on its left side. | ||||
FB_ALT:5 | Slab Hidari (5 kyū)
A cop out escaping Slab Chūō to the left arête. | ||||
FB:6C+ | Slab Chūō
Climb the centre of the slab using the right facing flake. Finish at the top of the boulder, avoiding both the left and right arêtes. | ||||
FB_ALT:3 | Beginners Arête
Left hand side of the right arête. | ||||
FB_ALT:4+ | Kante Migi (6 kyū)
The right hand side of the arête. A step up in difficulty from Beginners Arête | ||||
Kasama Boulder Main Area Love Boulder | |||||
FB_ALT:5 | Kante (5 kyū)
Climb the left arête. | ||||
FB:6B | ★ Glico SD
Climb Glico from a sit start on the left, without using holds on the left or right arêtes. | ||||
FB_ALT:2 | Glico
A straight up problem from a stand start. Named after a Japanese confectionery company. | ||||
FB:6C | ★★ Love Arête
An eliminate version of Love Touch using the left hand arête only. | ||||
FB:6A+ | ★★★ Love Touch
One of Kasama's finest problems and worth seeking out. Climb the egg shaped boulder! | ||||
Kasama Boulder Main Area Ōgi Boulder | |||||
FB_ALT:5+ | Spark Traverse
Using the lip is okay. | ||||
FB:6C | Spark Traverse Long
Start on the right of the arête as for Spark Arête. Swing round the arête and finish up Spark Traverse. | ||||
FB:6C+ | ★ Spark Arête
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FB_ALT:3 | Slab (8 kyū)
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Kasama Boulder Main Area Heartbeat Boulder | |||||
FB:6A | Heartbeat Arête Left Var.
Start as for Heartbeat Arête, but swing round onto the left of the arête and on to the top. Scarier than than the original. | ||||
FB:6B+ | ★★★ Heartbeat Arête
A Kasama classic. Climb the arête on its right hand side. | ||||
FB:6C | Heartbeat Traverse
Climb Heartbeat Arête to the swallow horizontal groove just before the lip. Traverse this rightwards, then climb down Magic Finger to the ground. | ||||
FB:6A+ | Magic Finger
A strange problem using the mono pocket to swing onto the slap from the right. | ||||
FB_ALT:2 | Slab (9 kyū)
A poor slab starting from the sloping ground. | ||||
FB_ALT:3 | Mantle (8 kyū)
Use a crimp to mantle onto the hanging slab. | ||||
FB_ALT:1 | Ōkaku
Mantle into the hanging slab from the right. | ||||
FB_ALT:4 | Hand Traverse
Start as for Ōkaku, then step down and hand traverse the lip leftwards round the corner. When the lip steepens, finish by mantelling onto the hanging slab. | ||||
Kasama Boulder Main Area Simple Boulder | |||||
FB:6C | Simple Like
A mantle problem squeezed on the end. The holds on the left were originally under soil, and the grade goes down to Font 5 if you use them. | ||||
FB:6C+ | ★★ Simple Fighter
A gentle introduction to the 1 kyū grade at Kasama. Start LH on the low side pull crimp, and RH on the pinch. | ||||
FB:7A+ | ★★★ Simple and Deep
Start standing on the rock on the ground, with LH on the undercling pinch, RH on the sloping lip. For the full experience avoid the dyke on the left on Simple Fighter at the top. | ||||
FB:7A | ★★★ Emotion
A Kasama classic. Start LH on a crimp, RH on a undercling low and right. PA: Ueda | ||||
FB:7A+ | ★★★ Emotion SD
The sit start to Emotion. | ||||
FB_ALT:4 | ★ Finger Crack
The finger crack that widens to hands on the slab. | ||||
FB_ALT:5 | Finger Crack SD
The sit start to Finger Crack. | ||||
FB_ALT:4+ | Face
Start with hands on the boss on the lip. | ||||
FB:6A | ★ Face SD
Climb Face from a sit start. Kasama grading has a stiff reputation for things like this - 6A going on 7A. | ||||
FB_ALT:4+ | Mantle (6 kyū)
Mantle onto the slab. | ||||
FB:6B | Protein
From the low arête, hand traverse the lip leftwards until the holds get worse. Then mantle. | ||||
FB:6C+ | Super Protein
Start as for Protein, but keep traversing until the very end. Then mantle. | ||||
Kasama Boulder Main Area Cheap Boulder | |||||
FB:6B | ★ Simple and Cheap
Layback up the right arête of the slab. Getting established is the crux. | ||||
Kasama Boulder Main Area Kasaman | |||||
FB:6C | ★ Kasaman
Start low with hands on the lip, and mantle over. | ||||
Kasama Boulder Main Area Washington Boulder | |||||
FB_ALT:5 | Jump Club
From the ground jump to the lip, then mantle. Tall people can reach the lip from the ground. | ||||
FB:6B+ | ★★ Washington Club
The delicate arête on its left hand side. | ||||
FB:7A+ | ★ Boston Club
Smear up the right hand side of the arête and mantle onto the top. | ||||
Kasama Boulder Main Area Sekkijin Boulder | |||||
FB_ALT:4+ | Sekkijin Slab Left
Layback up the left arête of the boulder. | ||||
FB_ALT:5 | Kante SD (5 kyū)
Start sitting with both hands on the arête, then climb onto it and up it. | ||||
FB:7A+ | ★★ Sekkijin Slab Chūō
Climb up the slab slightly left of centre, passing two minuscule crimps. Finish at the top of the boulder, i.e. don't bail to the left arête. | ||||
FB:7B | Sekkijin Slab Domannaka
A harder variation of Sekkijin Slab Chūō climbing direct up the centre. | ||||
FB_ALT:3 | Sekkijin Slab Right
Climb the right arête of the boulder. There is also a variation at Font 6A (4 kyū) that excludes the lip. | ||||
Kasama Boulder Main Area Hangman Boulder | |||||
FB:6C | ★★★ Hangman
Starting with hands on the lip, throw a leg up and mantle. Variations mantling both with the left and right leg exist. | ||||
FB:7C | ★ Q-Ban
A Tokio Muroi test piece. Start sitting and climb up the steep face using crimps. Finish as for Hangman. PA: Tokio Muroi | ||||
FB:7B+ | Pīman-tei
Traverse the sloping lip leftwards into Hangman and finish. Named after the Green Pepper Restaurant. | ||||
FB_ALT:1 | 10 kyū
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FB_ALT:3 | Face (8 kyū)
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FB_ALT:4 | Slab (7 kyū)
Hard for the grade. | ||||
FB_ALT:4+ | Chockman
Climb up between the boulders. | ||||
Kasama Boulder Main Area Practice Boulder | |||||
FB_ALT:2 | Practice Man
Climb up the left face. Can be started sitting. | ||||
FB_ALT:3 | Foot Traverse
Traverse between Practice Man and Kante Hidari without using the lip of the boulder for hands. | ||||
FB_ALT:3 | SD (8 kyū)
Sit start. | ||||
FB_ALT:1 | Ōkaku (10 kyū)
Smear up the runnel. | ||||
FB_ALT:3 | Kante Hidari (8 kyū)
Climb up the arête, starting on its left hand side. | ||||
FB:6A | Kante SD (4 kyū)
A mantle problem on the undercut arête. Start sitting and pull up and over onto the arête. | ||||
FB_ALT:5 | Kante (5 kyū)
A tricky start to get established onto the right side of the arête, which is then climbed to the top. | ||||
FB:7A | ★★★ Okamochi
Climb the face with difficulty to the very top of the boulder, eliminating the left arête. 'Okamochi' refers to the old style of carrying soba and udon noodle boxes above the shoulder with a palm facing up. | ||||
Kasama Boulder Main Area Hip Boulder | |||||
FB:6C | ★ Hip Mantle
Mantle leftwards onto the slab. | ||||
FB:7B+ | ★ Shiki
Make a big move leftwards from the jugs to the lip of Hip Mantle, then finish up that problem. | ||||
FB:7A+ | ★★★ Moran
Start on the jugs and use intermediary holds to finish leftwards above the lip of Hip Mantle. The crack of Fist Crack is out. | ||||
FB:7B | Moran Direct
A direct finish to Moran using holds on the left side within the crack, but not jamming the crack itself. | ||||
FB_ALT:4+ | ★ Fist Crack
Traditional style climbing that perplexes many hotshots visiting from Tokyo's gyms. | ||||
FB_ALT:5+ | Under Traverse
Traverse leftwards and finish when you reach the top of the jugs. | ||||
FB:7B | ★ Black Thunder
Start as for Under Traverse, but instead of using holds on the jug rail below the crack, undercut the top side of the crack and use hands on the right arête to get established with feet on the jugs. Continuing undercutting upwards before it is possible to make a long move our rightwards to a big hold on Aerodancer around the right arête. Top out direct. The grade is very reach dependent. | ||||
FB:6A+ | ★ Aerodancer
Climb the slabby arête on its right side. | ||||
FB:6C+ | Naoto Slab
Name means 'climb direct slab'. Avoid using holds on Ankrah Slab to the right. | ||||
FB_ALT:4 | Ankrah Slab
The shallow crack. | ||||
Kasama Boulder Main Area Horidashi Boulder | |||||
FB_ALT:4 | 7 kyū
Start sitting at the base of the arête and pull on using crimps. Swing round left onto the slab and climb this to finish. | ||||
FB_ALT:5+ | 4 kyū
Pull on as per the previous route, but climb the crimps rightwards to the top. | ||||
FB:6A+ | Kante Hidari (3 kyū)
Start RH on the high undercling, LH on the arête. | ||||
FB:6B+ | Horidashimono
Sit start then traverse the boulder lip leftwards to finish up Kante Hidari (3 kyū). Name means 'dug out treasure'. | ||||
FB_ALT:4 | Mantle (7 kyū)
Mantle onto the sticking out hold. | ||||
Kasama Boulder Main Area Mumei Boulder #1 | |||||
FB_ALT:5+ | Crack (4 kyū)
Dig out all the dirt in the crack between the boulders, sit down, then climb it. Finish out rightwards to the top of the main boulder. | ||||
FB:6C | Double Dyno
Climb the arête of the boulder on its left side. | ||||
Kasama Boulder Main Area Hop Boulder | |||||
FB_ALT:5+ | Mantle SD (4 kyū)
Start sitting and climb the flake to the top. | ||||
FB:6A | ★ Tankobu
Start on underclings in the crack. Named after the lump that formed on the first ascensionist's head after a hold broke. | ||||
FB_ALT:4+ | ★ Hop Mantle
Jump to the lip, find the best holds, then mantle. | ||||
FB_ALT:2 | Yoisho
Bit of a pull to get established. | ||||
FB_ALT:4 | Sunao
Step onto the boulder, then trend rightwards to the top. Name means 'gentle'. | ||||
FB_ALT:4+ | Wana
Name means 'trap', after the hole in the ground that used to exist below this problem. | ||||
Kasama Boulder Main Area Mumei Boulder #2 | |||||
FB_ALT:5 | Lip Traverse (5 kyū)
Traverse the lip from left to right, then mantle at the top. | ||||
FB_ALT:4+ | Kante Migi (6 kyū)
Start with hands on the arête and climb leftwards. | ||||
FB:6A | Slab (4 kyū)
Climb the nose of the boulder. | ||||
FB_ALT:3 | Lip Traverse (8 kyū)
Start in the crack right of Slab (4 kyū), then traverse the lip rightwards. Mantle at the end of the boulder. A sit start is also possible at about Font 5. |