Minami kabe Guide

there is a variante in 5.11d

This is the longest and most classic multi-pitch route up the South face of Jo-Yama. The entire 6 pitch route is protected by bolts which is typical for most climbs in this area.

Good introduction to slabby face climbing on Joyama andesite. This is slabby face climbing, with many small solution pockets, few of them positive, so reasonably delicate climbing with footwork being important.

Start of LHS of South Wall. Follow the line of bolts directly up, the well protected crux is near the top. Note the route sequence is from the topo in the guide book

Great 4 pitch sport route right up the middle of the main face directly through 2 overlaps and a roof. Crux is getting through the roof on P2 and its quite a hard 10a - but well protected. P2 could really do with re-bolting, there are some dodgy bolts and hangers there apart from the crux. Excellent climbing on clean rock, good exposure and views. Pity it doesn't top out, but given the rockfall danger to the busy path below, its probably a good idea.

Descent Options: Rap the route. You can do it with a single 60m rope, but if you drag a 2nd rope up you'll get down much faster.

same start as "Gypsy Mary"

Route #40 of Minami Kabe sector of Joyama in Japanese guidebook.

Route #45 of the Minami Kabe sector of Toyama in the Japanese guidebook. 7 or 8 bolts to the anchor.

Short and very interesting route that uses small pockets and side pulls crimps. The moves are hard to read but very nice and smooth when a good beta is found. The crux is a cool hand-crossing move to a relatively good pocket. A good left foot position is the key.

Short route with some big undercling pocket holds. It's a straightforward climb with big moves and very nice holds and features.

It starts with a nice and hard slab section followed by a little edge that is tricky to top out.