Nodos en Mizugaki Yama

Granite formations scattered through a national park, known for excellent trad climbing and bouldering but also has a sport climbing sector.

Known for single and multipitch crack climbing. Probably the most popular of the trad areas at Mizugaki.

Translates as "Left rock ridge end wall"

Translates as "Eagle" Multi Pitch Climb

Multi Pitch Climb

Short and steep double crack system. Dry in light rain.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Multi Pitch Climb

Translates as "Before winter comes"

Translates as "Long farewell"

Translates as "Wind chime"

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Multi Pitch Climb

Translates as "Illusion of harmony"

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

なきっつら

Left of Central Wall, a bit shorter, mostly rap-down multipitch.

(Feel free to add the Japanese name if you know it. I am doing all this without consulting the guidebook).

Start at a corner 20m left of the left edge of the cave.

1. Corner to a small roof, then wander left across cracked face, heading for a big tree. This tree often has slings for the rap descent, but better spots to anchor further back on ledge.

2. The obvious chimney above, protection in cracks and some chockstones. Slightly tricky offwidth exit to gain a large ledge.

3. The money pitch. Overhanging crack for a few metres (tree is probably in, it's trad), then the angle decreases but a variety of crack sizes await in the long corner above. Endurance required.

4. Go up right corner/slab for 5m, horizontally right for a few metres then downclimb, to reestablish an anchor.

5. Final short offwidth to the top.

Alternatively, from the end of the 3rd pitch you could probably do the last pitch of the other 10a multi, which is the offwidth corner slightly to the left.

The descent rap route starts from the end of this (alternate) pitch, so if you did the original finish you need to scramble left (facing in) on the rock bands at the top to find it.

Gear: double rack + #4 and #5.

Central Wall is perhaps the tallest and most imposing of Mizugaki multipitch walls. Many more routes than are listed here.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

One of Japan's iconic multi-pitch free climbing routes. This is a must do route. The 1st, 4th and 5th pitches are the gems of the route. The hardest pitch is the first pitch which starts with a bouldery arete move into the corner under the overhang. Then moving right and around the overhang and onto the 5.11b slab, which will test even the best slab climbing specialists. The chimney in pitch 6 is graded 5.7, however this is not a true indication of the difficulty and should be re-graded as 5.9+～5.10.

The furthest of the main walls of Toichimen.

The first route to this particular summit. Starts at the obvious chimney on the sandy terrace and follows the line of least resistance. Has some bushy/scrambling pitches before merging with Joyful Moment during the last pitch.

To descend, scramble roughly west from the summit down boulders. At some point, can turn around and go under the last boulder you climbed down, making a small cave that leads back towards the descent gully.

Start around 30m right from Outsider, at obviously worn left-leading flake/crack.

1. Left-leaning crack to tree. Possible to link with the next pitch if you don't have too much drag.

2. Traverse left along ledge to base of steep crack.

3. Steep crack - be careful of fragile rock, especially the hanging tufa-like thing near the start. Otherwise an enjoyable pitch. One old bolt near the start.

4. V-groove flaring crack, initially steep then slabby but widens, requiring some offwidth technique. Old bolted anchor or use gear.

5. Scramble through boulders behind then short crack to the summit, gear anchor.

Double rack + #4 and #5 helpful.

To descend, scramble roughly west from the summit down boulders. At some point, can turn around and go under the last boulder you climbed down, making a small cave that leads back towards the descent gully.

Small file rock

Translates as "Life theater"

Translates as "Grilled octopus alliance"

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Translates as "Mountain light flower"

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

One of the most impressive climbs at Mizugaki. A true classic and a real test piece for the grade.

にんげんせんげん

植樹祭エリア

ダイワハウチュ

しじま谷

Overhanging Off-width Crack. Number Camelot C4 #3 through #6 is essential, along with long trousers and shirt.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

This is a minor area and rarely visited. It has many quality crack routes and deserves to be more popular.

Translates as "Snake Rock"

Translates as Snake Route Left

Translates as Snake Route Right. Watch out for the tree at half height. Any fall above the gear while ascending the twin crack section at the top of the route will result in hitting the tree below. The tree has already accounted for one rushed trip to the emergency room to patch up a big gouge in one climbers buttocks after he fell at the lip of the twin crack section.

Translates as "Snake Pit"

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Sheer cliff front wall

F1.5～3.5

F0.4～4　Mid size range Route name translates as"Fudosawa lovers party route".

F1～4 2-3set use70m

This is a fantastic route that is only marred by the scrappy start. The real climbing starts from the OW size crack (more like a squeeze chimney then an off-width). Put in a number BD #6 and then begin to grunt your way up. If you like wide off-width climbing then give this climb another 1 star. The OW changes to a perfect fist/hand size overhanging crack that continues directly straight up all the way to the anchor. It is best to 2nd the climb to clean the route. BD 0.75 ～6) It would be recommended that you take 2x BD #5 unless you don't mind having long runouts.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

The route translates as "king of beasts".

First pitch is a fantastic flake traverse around an arête which finishes at the anchor for Hyakuu no oo. The second pitch starts up in a chimney and then you step out onto the face and then up an off width crack to the top. Beware the top off width crack, if you are not used to off width climbing you will think you have just been sandbagged (don't think it us an easy 5.8)

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Translates as ”Finishing touch”

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Sheer cliff Emperor Tower

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Translates as "Invitation to the imperial family"

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

F3～4, T5～6

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Rhododendron Guitar 石楠花三味

TOPへの道

タンジェリンクラウド

愁いの王 "King of melancholy"

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Translates as "Looking for hidden gold"

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Translates as "Castle Rock"

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Translates as "Antelope Route" Cam sizes F1～4

The Same Variation

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Translates as "Youth '86"

Three F1 size cams

F1～4

天才の証明 Translates as "Proof of genius" F1.5～3

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

This route is on the rock formation known as Dog Head Rock

This route is on the rock formation known as 'Penguin Rock'

Translates as "Sound of a stream route" F1～3 This route is on the rock formation known as 'Seal Rock'

Translates as "Curtain-like wall"

F1.5～4

F1～4,K1, L1

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.