★★★ La Guerre Sainte 7b

Original Topo

"We were a team of six: Benoit Robert, Philippe Batoux, Hervé Bouvard and I as the leading team, and Guy Abert and the Israeli Alon Hod in support. It took us five days, from November 12-16, with fixed rope to establish La Guerre Sainte (The Holy War, 7b+ Max, 12 pitches, 400m) on the east face of Nassrani North. We spent our nights at the Comfort Rest House, where people can find the topo. I am very enthusiastic about this new route, a 400- meter sport free climb in the desert of Wadi Rum, close to the Red Sea in South Jordan.

This is an outstanding climb thanks to the special rock (the sandstone is sometimes more sand than rock) and the beautiful desert scenery. It’s like climbing on the moon! Particularly when you gain altitude, you have the feeling you are in another world: the valley with its yellow sand contrasts with the small red massifs. The colored, very sculpted rock requires a perfect concentration and technique. You are obliged to learn to use your whole body so as not to break a hold. It’s more than climbing on your feet. When it’s 5.12c, that’s not easy.

This is not the hardest route in the world but, due to the quality of rock, the incredible shapes of the holds and the perfect verticality of the wall, it is one of the most singular. The route is well equipped with bolts and rings (special ones made by Petzl), but sometimes it’s run out enough to maintain the game of “Oops, here it’s really better I don’t fall.” Compulsory moves are not harder than 6c, and so attempting the route is possible for many climbers." (Arnaud Petit, France)

Videos: 1. Sasha DiGuilian 2. Magnus Midtbø

Gear

• Min 2x50m or 1x90m rope.
• 14 quickdraws including 2 extensible.
• 60cm/120cm sling

Route

Bolted at hard moves. Slings in threads at easier moves.

1. 6c (30m): Technical pitch with balancy moves. Up the chimney, inside the cave, out of the cave to the right of the bolt, up then onto the slab to the left of the bolt. For safety, wrap a sling around a thread to your left just when leaving the chimney to set up the first safety point. Another sling is already set up after it as well before the first bolt. Might need to take off your backpack to enter the chimney.

2. 6b+ (35m): Fantastic climb with the crux at the overhang just before the anchor.

3. 6b (35m): Relatively more runout, juggy and a little pumpy.

4. 6b+ (35m): Sweet climb with the crux at the overhang just before the anchor. Uncomfortable hanging belay.

5. 7b (30m): Brutal crimpy climb starting with an overhang with tiny footholds.

6. 6b (30m): Sustained climb, harder at last few meters. Anchor is in a cave where couple of people can sit blocked off wind.

7. 6c (45m)

8. 6c+ (40m)

9. 7b (30m)

10. 7b (25m)

11. 7b (35m)

12. 6a+ (20m)

Descent

When rappelling from second pitch anchor to first pitch anchor, you must be careful that your rope doesn’t get stuck in the crack next to the first pitch. To achieve this, lower the rope until above the crack/ledge and have the rest of it tied and on you. Untie the rope and throw it away from the crack. Rappel until the ledge that has the first bolt of the second pitch and allow the other climbers to rappel to the first pitch anchor while ensuring the rope doesn’t get stuck in the crack. The other climbers can belay you while you down climb to the first pitch anchor. To get to ground, rappel out against the wall, not towards the starting point.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.