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Nodo
Picnic tree Boulders

This area contains all the boulders accessible from the picnic tree parking spot at the end of the trail going along the bottom of the crags at Lukenya.

A few Lukenya classic are here, including spicy high-ball Dinosaur Egg, and some great V4-5s on the Crown boulder.

Dinosaur Egg

Huge egg-shaped boulder, about 9-10m high. Accessible (and visible) from the road on the way to the picnic tree, a few hundred metres before you reach the picnic tree parking spot. Currently one line on the boulder, but potential for a couple more if you have strong ankles and no amygdala!

Dinosaur Egg
V3 Ballz Hot

Crouch start in the overhang matched in a good slot in the crack, climb out right and up the right side of the face. Once you pass the two big holes in the face (great jugs) you are commited. This is a pretty scary but all around amazing climb. Avoid using the right arete until at the top, although this can be a nice bailout lower down. Getting off the boulder can be tricky!

V4 Panic Mechanic

The main line up the center of the head-wall. Start matched on left facing side-pull and make powerful moves up to get established on the wall. An efficient start is key to avoiding exhaustion in the no fall zone. Stay calm, don't panic, have fun!

V2 Dr. Danger

This problem ascends the arete on left hand side of the boulder. Start stood on the ramp below the arete with hands matched on the slanting rail. Once established, the ascent along the arete is straight forward with good feet and decent hand holds.

The Crown

Large boulder with a wide, flat top from a narrower base. In addition to existing routes traverses of increasing difficulty can be put together going around the base and up. The Crown is near picnic tree at the end of the car track going past Main Wall etc. A small trail goes straight down from this area about 50 m to the boulder. If you reach Archway crag you took the wrong path; go back to the cars and take a path lower down.

The Crown
V3 The Joker

Crouch start matched in low crack on the side of the boulder you arrive at from the picnic tree path, follow crack out of roof and then climb arete left to finish left over the exposed overhang.

V3 Jack

Same start as Joker but goes right out of roof and up the short face to the top.

V5 Heavy is the Head

To the right of Jack. Sit-down start matched on the thin edge, powerful moves up and to the right out of the roof then left up the short pace. Amazing, precise moves!

V6 Final Boss

A sharp and aesthetic traverse of the boulder. Start matched in "The Joker" crack and proceed to make a full traverse of the boulder utilising the features on the main face to the end of the climbable holds marked by a short horizontal crack with a small pocket at it's end. Once the furthest hold right "the pocket" has been achieved, the climber may top out. Note: the top edge of the boulder is off limits. The climber must dance around on the holds and features on the main face and belly of the boulder.

V6 All Things Royal

To the right of Heavy is the Head. Sit-down start with hands on low on quasi symmetrical crimpy edges, a few big moves straight up to the top. Deceptively difficult and low percentage.

V4 For Every King a Crown

Start left hand in pocket and right hand on good side pull, moves right and up on slopers, crimps, and small feet. One of my all-time favorites at Lukenya! On the backside of the boulder - needs at least two pads and a decent spotter to avoid the nearby boulder in a fall.

V3 Let them eat cake

Start on the same holds as For Every King a Crown, but then go left and up with big side-pulls and cool body positions.

V6 Joker's Boss

Start on pocket/crack at the end of 'Final Boss' and proceed to do the problem in reverse up to where you join 'Jack.' From here, the problem proceeds up and left, sharing a stylish top out with 'The Joker.'

V5 Heavy are the crown jewels

An alternative finish to Heavy is the head. Start on the same holds as for Heavy is the head, but when you arrive at the decent crimp about midway in match and head out left rather than right.

Tickfest

Low featured boulder walking towards main wall from picnic tree. Unfortunately quite a few ticks around the base during tick season! Good to warm up with plenty of eliminate and traverse possibilities.

Tickfest
V1 Tickle my fancy

Up the slab on the left side of the boulder, starting low and right then making your way up and to left, topping out near the tree branches. Slabby and technical climbing.

V1 Ticked off

Sit-start on the low jug on the left-hand side of the boulder (right of the slabby face). Go straight up the arete.

V1 Another one for the ticklist

Sit start from the big jug in the middle and find your way directly up a couple hand moves to an easy top.

V1 Tickle Me Elmo

Sit start (practically a lie start) from the low jug in the middle of the boulder. Traverse out right through the 45 degree crack and continue to top out at the far right corner.

V1 Lukenya Itch

Eliminate problem starting with a sit start on the "handle" jugs on each side of the flat shelf to the right of the other starts. Power up to the top lip, avoiding the cracks in the middle. Cracks off for feet too, so enjoy the mantle!

V2 Ticki-taka

Full traverse of the boulder. Sit-start on the start jug of Ticked off on the left and work your way right and to the top-out of Tickle me Elmo. Avoid all holds at the top of the boulder before the top-out on the far right.

Un-generic boulder

A slabby boulder to the left of the main face. At its base is a narrow gap between it and another much lower and flatter boulder. This narrow gap makes placing pads and protecting from falls a somewhat tricky affair that demands a tad more focus than the average boulder

Un-generic boulder
V1 Leg day gains

An enticing little slab problem up the middle of the boulder. Stand-start in the gap between the two boulders with hands just above waist height. Go either up and slightly left (easier) or up and slightly right (harder). Great for learning how to slab climb. Can be padded by filling in the gap with pads after the climber is above the height of the neighbouring boulder.

V0 Just grab and smear

Stand-start just right of the left arete. Go straight up.

V1 Hamstring flex

Stand-start on the same holds as for "Just grab and smear" and proceed to traverse right into "Leg day gains" and finish up via the latter sequence.

V1 Sore Back

Stand-start up the right-hand arete of the boulder.

Christmas Break

Big, leaning boulder a bit of a hike up the hill from picnic tree parking

Christmas Break
V2 Repeat the Sending Joy

Stand start on lowest possible holds facing each other, both have 90 degree corners and the left hand is small and sharp. Find your way up and across the ridge line to the top. Top out as far left as you can without getting stuck in the thorns.

V2 Easter egg

Sit-start with both hands as low as possible - left in a small crack and right on the ledge which is also used for the right foot. Go straight up the face, with some deceptively tricky and balancey moves.

Hukumu

Boulder on the right of the path just past Egyptian with a high-quality V5.

Hukumu
V5 The People vs. The Ololokwe Golf Club

Great little V5 up the overhanging nose of the boulder. Start matched on the good holds about chest height and use power or heel-hook trickery straight up.

V1 Case cracked

Up the crack on the left-hand side of the boulder. Sit-start matched in the crack as low as possible, up to where it ends and straight up the juggy boulder above.

Lopiro le nkare

Very aesthetic boulder overlooking the plain and Mombasa Road up the hill past Egyptian. Lopiro le nkare means wave in Samburu.

Lopiro le nkare
V4 M'bura

Deceptively difficult climb up the black face on the backside of the boulder. Sit-start matched on obvious crimp in middle of face, and find your way straight up.

V3 Radi

Line up the arete. Start matched on the lowest good holds, move up to the next set of good holds and jump for the top!

V3 Rising Tides

An instant classic heading diagonally left up the clean face to final sloppery sequence at the top. Start matched at the break in the horizontal crack rail.

V0 Slami

Up the slab on the easier right-hand face of the boulder. Sit-start on the big crack, straight up via one slightly tricky friction foot move.

V5 Fallin’ rain

Up the centre of the main face. Same sit-start as for Rising tides. Instead of crossing with right hand to the pocket though, take it with your left and go straight up, using the diagonal crimp on your right and stretching for the top. Probably harder for shorter climbers.

V5 Thin ice

Lovely technical climbing up the right-hand arete of the main face. Sit-start in the big crack, then work your way up with right hand using the arete and left on face holds. Figure out how to get your feet high and go for the finishing jugs at the top!

Sit-start Samburu

Small boulder below Egyptian crag, with a few decent problems in the lower grades. Good for warming up or learning how to move on jugs in an overhang.

Sit-start Samburu
V2 Screaming hyrax

Sit-start matched in the low crack on the left of the boulder, traverse all the way across following the gently rising crack, finishing on the far right where a small vertical crack splits the top.

V0 Bum dab

Same start as for Screaming hyrax, but go up the earlier diagonal crack.

V0 Close everything

Start on the higher crack on the left of the boulder, and follow it up to to its end and top out.

Lost and Found

Boulder just below the distinctive Dino Egg, with a nice sharp V5 and easier V1.

Lost and Found
V1 Lost and Found

Up the right-hand arete of the boulder.

V5 Lost Skin

A pleasingly aesthetic line, though the start hold is very tough on the skin. Stand-start with left hand on an incut hold low on the arete and right hand on a higher very sharp and small crimp. Bump up the left hand and get feet higher before going up to the decent hold just right of the arete, and from there to top on okay holds.

Egyptian Slab boulder

The slab at the base of Egyptian. Comprises the start of some trad routes via easier ground on the left of the slab and the tree on the right, with nice technical climbing up to the first platform which can be done as a boulder.

Egyptian Slab boulder
V3 Sarcophagus

Start from the Sarcophagus chalk mark, and move almost directly up. It gets easier, but a lot headier near the top. You can relax once you've finished! Could be considered E3 5c, but there's no gear worth speaking of. Come down off the tree to the right.

Mostrando los 49 nodos.

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