After the Gold Rush E1

Start below the Gold Rush Buttress. This route ascends the buttress and the steep headwall above. Start in the centre of buttress where there is a recess with white streaks at 9 m.

1. 24 m Up middle of recess then step right at 3 m. Straight up then move left around corner. Move up chimney to sloping ledges which are climbed until a traverse right can be made to good belays by block.

2. 44 m Wide step right from belay then round corner to foot of crack. Up crack then further right to tramline cracks. Up these to broken groove and continue to ridge.

3. 18 m Move easily to top of buttress.

4. 18 m Up wide crack behind and at 15 m move right to ledge and belay.

5. 31 m Move along ledge to tramline cracks which are climbed to roof. Over this (2 aid pegs), then free climb slab above. Move left to arete and belay 5 m left of this. Peg belays.

6. 18 m Move left then up broken rock to crack. Belay on top of this.

7. 31 m Move left up broken rock to top. Seriousness: 5

No bolting unless you're doing a new route (then please check with the MCK that it is a new route beforehand).