Nodos en Malaui

Climb Malawi is socio-economically inclusive community in Lilongwe, coordinating rock climbing activities in Malawi.

Climbing at Mulundi in characteristically sharp granite holds. On the border between Malawi and Mozambique at Lizulu, Ntcheu.

Sanjike has two sub-areas namely, "Ku Mseu" the sunny side facing the road where you park and "Ku Phiri" the other side facing Chilobwe Mountain. It is the first place you come to when approaching Mulundi. Easy climbing.

Landowners are the community who have granted permission and allowed for outsiders to come and climb.

Start in left=center of the sunny slab at the left-hand of three dark streaks. Climb 4 bolts to anchor.

Start about six feet (2m) to the right of Friendship Route at the next waterstreak that leads to a small right-facing corner. Climb up the face to the corner, then step right to a two-bolt anchor.

The hardest part of the Climb comes at the beginning. Two moves to get up the slab to the corner of the massive flake where one can place the first protection. At the first tree growing out the crack exit onto the face. Here the only protection is Slings around Jugs in tow places. The protection is both questionable and runout and plays mind tricks on the leader. Climb up to a ledge for a belay. This is where the actual climbing ends.

Descent: Scramble off.

Location: Route starts at the corner of the Flake feature in front of the eucalyptus tree.

Protection: Friends and nuts, Slings, tree, rock. Natural anchor on rock.

DISCLAIMER: the route was climbed as a mental training for a much bigger objective to imitate the nature of the route they were going to climb, and, therefore, the first ascentionists discourage anyone from getting on it if they don't really have to.

Landowners are the community who have granted permission and allowed for outsiders to come and climb.

Developers: Todd & Donette Swain, August 2023

This is currently the leftmost line on Sector 1. Start near the left end of the shady face below a triangular, eight-foot-high feature at the base of the cliff. Climb up the right side of the triangle to a stance at its top. Move left on thin holds, then up and slightly right on the face to the two-bolt anchor.

TR anchors with Fixe rappel rings.

Sector 1 between Peace and Potvis.

Start about seven feet right of Peace on the right side of a tree. This spot is a couple feet to the left of the start of Potvis. Climb up about eight feet, then up and slightly left to reach a right-leaning seam. Move up the seam, then straight up the steep face above to a two-bolt anchor.

TR anchors with Fixe rappel rings.

Developers: Joost Sikkema and Annemieke van Merkerk, April 2022

Crimpy route all the way with bad holds.This is the central route on Sector 1, starting between the bushes at the base of the wall.

TR bolts for anchors with links.

Developer: Petter Sundqvist, Jan 2021

5 bolts to anchor. The route has a characteristic tail-like crevice which debouches into a hollow head, hence its dramatic name. The start requires technical skills going up along the crack employing a combination of crimps, pinches and clings, and smearing.

Start in front of a bush and follow the sperm-like feature on the rock. TR anchors with quicklinks but no rings. Top is accessible for cleaning.

6 bolts to anchor. Start about eight feet left of Cinnamon Roll and just right of a vertical seam. Climb the thin face to an anchor. Start about eight feet left of Cinnamon Roll and just right of a vertical seam.

3 bolts to anchor. Start near the right side of the Sector 1 wall below a wide dike. Climb past three bolts to an anchor.

Moderate to hard climbing on sharp holds.

Developed by Mario Stanley, Aug 2023

Climb on the slab up to the anchor. Very wet in the rainy season and dries off slowly. Good for absolute beginners and kids.

TR anchors with links and abseil rings

Developed by Mario Stanley, Aug 2023

3 bolts to anchor. A big hold starts the climb, climbing right past bolt 1. Crux is at bolt 2 that requires a delicate slide back to the left to get into a clipping stance. Abundant holds to anchor.

Developers: Ed Nhlane, February 2021

4 bolts to anchor. A slightly overhanging boulder problem and highly technical route characterized by two finger pockets, sharp edges, and pinches. Route is a series of boulder problems; it starts on the left slab section, up to a duo undercling-pinch for the left and a right on the arrowhead, then a to full crimp on the left above and a sharp right edge below it. Proceed to the pockets at diagonal on right just below bolt 1, traverse to match at the skewed sidepull. Place the right foot high enough before lunging to pinch the arrowhead which is followed by two glorious jugs next to each other. From the jugs, reposition body and swing right hip in to go for the next sidepull and match to lieback at this crux. Explosive power is needed at this crux to power glide to the slopping pinch below the bolts on the left and endurance required to reposition the body again to finish with the big edge on top right. This sequence at the end has got to be rapid because it is taxing.

Developers: Mario Stanley, Scott Clark, Omar Jagot and Moses Kalirani, August 2023

4 bolts to anchor. A beautiful climb! Decent holds all the way to bolt 3. Climb up to the under-cling above and reach over the bulge with right hand to a jug. This is the crux. The holds disappear on the slab but the feet are really good and lead to a pinch on the left to moved past bolt 4 to the anchor.

Developer: Petter Sundqvist, February 2021

5 bolts to anchor. An enjoyable climb with simple connecting moves. Slab techniques come into play. It's all about the feet. Start can be tricky and the tree might be used to make it easier. A heel hook can come in handy at the last part of the climb.

Anchor with link and abseil ring

Developers: Ed Nhlane and Petter Sundqvist, March 2021

5 bolts to anchor. Sequence of the climb starts with the groovy edge for the right leading to the arrowhead on the left plus a push with the left foot. Reposition body and swing right hip inside followed by a knee drop with foot pressed against the side, then lunge for the undercling to the right above and match before reaching for the sidepull on the right.

Anchor with link and ring

Developed by Shalom Maholo, Oct 2023

4 bolts to anchor. Climb starts of a tricky bulge (with the tree stump growing in front of it). A critical left foot hold to push up to a right sidepull and bump up to an edge. Then follow a series of crimps and edges to the anchor. Look for a small tree (or stump) behind which the rock has a black patch to start.

Anchor with abseil rings

Landowners are the community who have granted permission and allowed for outsiders to come and climb.

Developers: Ed Nhlane and Petter Sundqvist, April 2021

9 bolts to anchor. "Pendama" is Chichewa for "leaning". The route is an impressive leaning tower that follows a visible crack up the wall. Follow the cleft up to the slightly overhang section.

Developer: Ed Nhlane, May 2024

Climb up the crack past the first crux at between bolts 2 and 4 and exit the dihedral to the right after bolt 3. Reach to the far right on the arête to match. Follow the off-width out onto the second crux near the top between bolts 8 and 9

Tip: If possible, extend draws at bolts 4 and 6 to reduce drag, or use an 60cm Alpine Quickdraws.

NB: CLOSED. ROUTE NOT YET OPEN TO PUBLIC.

Developers: Ed Nhlane and Petter Sundqvist, April 2021

5 bolts to anchor. To get to the first bolt, climb up to the ledge and then proceed to the protrusion out of the rock; reaching above the head for the edge where you can lean into the left. At the bulge, the top and bottom are great holds which may be used to get into a good clipping position for bolts 1 and 2. Get up on the bulge into the mouth of the Muppet. There are some edges on the slab that can take full crimps at this crux while you connect the sequence to get up to the hollow flake on the roof with an undercling at bolt 3. Match. Pivotal here is the heel hook which gets you over the overhang. From here, the climb is relatively easy between bolts 4 and 5.

The lower side of the pass beneath the cave feature which looks like a Muppet's open mouth.

Anchor with quicklinks and rings. Top is also accessible for cleaning.

Long routes on single pitches or 2 pitch climbing. Beware of Africanized honey bees in many places of this cliff.

Landowners are the community who have granted permission and allowed for outsiders to come and climb.

Developer: Michael Levy, July 2022

6 bolts to anchor. Crux is past bolt 4 when traversing to the left from the arete

Beware of Africanized honey bees. The South Wall starts to get the sun between 10-11am and the bees in the hole up on the right of the cliff get agitated. Possible to climb all day sometimes in did June-early august when it is cold and grey.

Developer: Ed Nhlane, April 2022

Single 60m rope needed to abseil.

P1, 25m 5b/5.8/VI-: An easy climb boasting jugs to a belay. 9 bolts to anchor. This pitch can also be set for top rope.

P2, 27m 6c/5.11a/VII+: The climbing gets tricky on 80-85° face: strenuous friction climbing on the upper section, with pinches, small edges, sloppers and crimps. The start of the pitch, however, is well featured and the holds are solid. Then the features get smaller and smaller. 11 bolts to anchor. Lichen grow fast on this pitch and a brush may be needed here and there.

Not yet developed. Beware of bees.

Local Crag within Lilongwe

Crag is an old quarry mine and is in the sun from 10 o'clock in the morning. No shaded areas. Sport routes that can also be toproped. Easy to get to even with public transport. Routes accessible from top of the crag by abseiling down the cliff from the trees and rocks.

Place protection starting from the beginning of the crack and join Flake on the right.

Can be lowered off the Flake anchor

Leftmost route at the crag, climbing follows the huge flake past 3 bolts to the anchor. Crux is at the beginning of the climb at bolt 1

Face climb with a boulder problem at the crux at bolt 2 which demands a stretchy lift move on the left or a heel hook to get to the edge (near the skewed white streak) and bump to the better hold. Also possible to go up using the tiny two finger crimp/pocket.

Chiyambi means "The Beginning". Descriptive since route is good for beginners and often used to get people into the sport.

Start either directly below bolt 1 or slight on the right beneath the flake and layback your way with powerful moves to the first crux at bolt 1. Climb past bolts 2 and 3 along the fissure line to get an unobvious position to clip at the crux on bolt 4 (holds are reachy). Stem wide to prop up to the anchors.

Warning: Loose rocks

One of the two quintessential climbs at Nathenje (besides Zoona "It is True"). Endurance is required

Route goes up the orange streak part in the middle section of the crag to the right of Nditha. Climb past 2 bolts with powerful moves to reach at the crux just after the under-clings. Dynamic move to go past the crux to the side-pull then gets less strenuous.

Developer: Michael Levey, July 2022

Starts below the ledge to clip to bolt 1. Climb over the arete to the right. A sequence of moves stemming along the dihedral gets you to the massive pinch and then jug on the right where you can clip in bolt 3. Great holds up to the crux at bolts 6-8 coming into the undercling. After clipping, climb down and traverse onto the slab using the slopper below bolt 7. Very tiny crimps lead to an awkward position only escapable by a heel and mantle to the anchors.

Osafooka ("Never Giver Up!") is a true test. Climb meant to start slightly on the left beneath bolt 1, but a variation exists to also start from the ledge. The bottom climb has bad holds which progressively get worse getting to the crux at bolt 3. Then holds become sloping crimps.

Follows an obvious connection of cracks at the corner of the last section to the right. The climb goes up the stack of boulders and ends at a belay on a tree on top.

Descent by walking off from the top of the hill.

Caution: Being an old quarry, some sections may not be as solid as they appear to take protection. Place protection with care. And also BEWARE of Bees in the cave up there. This is an early morning climb before the sun agitates the bees.

A boulder start leads you to a couple of left hand pinches, then mantle up to the shelf leading to the crux at the bulge at bolt 3 into a giant flake under-cling. Counterpressure moves to move past the crux past bolts 4 and 5 to anchor.

Nkhoma Bouldering Field within Lilongwe. Perfect day outing.

The area with the Big Cross on the southern end facing to the East

On the South Face of the wall. Route goes up a perfect crack on the and in the middle of it a tree jams its roots! Place your cams and nuts past.

Nice hand jamming crack to the bonsai, on the tree is a good rest. Short sight through the bonsai, then for the upper part a good crack technique is needed as the crack gets wider. A few crimps also exist on the face along the crack which can be used. There you can protect it by girthing a sling around some wedges rocks inside the crack.

Set up a belay anchor around the tree on top. From there you can walk off

0.75-2 double and maybe a number 3 and 4 at the top may be used. The crack faces north and lies beneath the cross.

It was so named because it where Chris Lutz proposed to Lydia Feiler and she said yes!

Climbing around the Mbalambala Point

Climbing up to the Nkhoma Peak

The boulder field at the foot of the Mbalambala Peak

Climbing at Ndirande Hill in Blantyre

The small hill west of Ndirande's main peak is topped by an old fire lookout. The prominent faces above the track provide a range of recently bolted routes.

Descent from all routes is by lowering off

The approach passes through fields of maize. Be cautious as not to step on the ridges and crops.

Starts at the left end of the crag, beneath a steep curving crack, which is unfortunately loose and explains why the route has only been toproped. It is superb climbing nonetheless.

Top-rope only at present, using the same anchor as The Folly. Start directly below the anchor, climbing small and sharp holds following a groove to a large pocket. Then either go right onto the ramp for an easier finish, or go straight up on small holds.

Re-bolted in 2017

In the middle of the Wisdom Wall. Starts starts up on the ledge. Originally bolted in the 80s. 8 bolts to anchor. A fantastic line up the highest point of the steep face using technical, tension moves which keep getting harder. To top-rope it is necessary to abseil in from small trees on top of the hill (approach up the grassy gully to the right of New Slab).

Abseil rings at anchors.

Start about 5m right of The Wisdom, take a prominent corner behind a tree to a crux at ⅔ height. Climb to a ledge.

Anchors reolted in 2017

This route can be practiced on top-rope from the anchor of Fat Men in Suits. This is an unremittingly fierce steep face climb on sharp incuts, that tackles the gently overhanging white wall. Start up the thin crack that disappears at half height on an otherwise alarmingly smooth wall; at this point step right then upwards past two bolts (and some hornets on the first ascent) and some testing moves. A short scramble takes you to the belay.

Tackles the overhanging face starting two or three metres up the slope from the previous route. Having brawnily overcome the bulge, continue more easily on bigger holds up to the next route, which is joined at half-height.

6 bolts to anchor. Start at the right-hand edge of the Wisdom Wall, at the entrance to a gully leading up to New Slab. Thin moves lead up and left, then climb delicately across a grassy groove (grass tufts are in!) and through the bulge above. The anchor is in the recess above.

The routes on the slab all share one lower-off anchor.

6 bolts to anchor. Climb the arête on the left edge of the slab. The final bolt is shared with Waterline

6 bolts to anchor. Follow the clean waterline. The fifth bolt is slightly to the right, shared with Resurrection, and the sixth is shared with Windy Arête.

4 bolts to anchor. A slightly eliminate line, using the first two bolts of Trees and two bolts at the end of Waterline, but maintaining a separate line. Start below and 1m left of a small oblong recessed dish, and take a line 1m left of the first two bolts, then continue straight up through the grass ledge.

13.

4 bolts to anchor. The first two bolts are shared with Resurrection. Start below an oblong recess dish. Climb the line 1m to the right of the bolts, moving diagonally right at the second bolt, passing below a tree towards the corner

Trad protection. Climb the right edge of the slab, immediately left of the grassy gully. Follow the corner and crack line up, delicately moving up and left past a series of roofs to the lower off. Well protected with nuts and small cams.

The approach passes through fields of maize. Be cautious as not to step on the ridges and crops.

PG13: Slightly runiout.

A painted arrow marks the bottom of the climb. Climb up a corner beneath a large jutting block. A strenuous pull over the block, VI-, is the first crux, leading to a big ledge (old bolt here). Here either escape to the right, abseiling off the tree, or continue up and left onto more crumbly ground. The second crux is an overhanging crack, 5m VI-, leading to an awkward sized recess. Move down to the left 1m, V+, to reach the narrow entry of a gully. Climb the gully over loose blocks 10m to reach (small) tree belays on a grassy slope. Walk off.

A steep shoulder at the north-west end of Ndirande's summit ridge

Venue for slab and multipitch climbing in Malawi with the longest vertical wall in Africa at 1700m.

Because of issues of theft of hangers on the lower pitches of the slab (usually P1-21, but sometimes up to P4), new developers for new routes must use stainless steel glue-in bolts where there is a high change people can steal them but can continue with bolts and hangers going further from P2.

Mulanje is a world heritage conservation Biome. Bolting is only permissible after careful consideration of the effects the proposed line will have on the sensitive environment there. Climb Malawi, Mountain Club or Malawi and Mulanje Mountain Conservation Trust need to be consulted prior to any bolting expedition (one of the 3 is fine).

Because of issues of theft of hangers on the lower pitches of the slab (usually P1-21, but sometimes up to P4), new developers for new routes must use stainless steel glue-in bolts where there is a high change people can steal them but can continue with bolts and hangers going further from P2.

Mulanje is a world heritage conservation Biome. Bolting is only permissible after careful consideration of the effects the proposed line will have on the sensitive environment there. Climb Malawi, Mountain Club or Malawi and Mulanje Mountain Conservation Trust need to be consulted prior to any bolting expedition (one of the 3 is fine).

Because of issues of theft of hangers on the lower pitches of the slab (usually P1-21, but sometimes up to P4), new developers for new routes must use stainless steel glue-in bolts where there is a high change people can steal them but can continue with bolts and hangers going further from P2.

Mulanje is a world heritage conservation Biome. Bolting is only permissible after careful consideration of the effects the proposed line will have on the sensitive environment there. Climb Malawi, Mountain Club or Malawi and Mulanje Mountain Conservation Trust need to be consulted prior to any bolting expedition (one of the 3 is fine).

Route up the northern end of the Approach Slabs, climbing through the overlap at a steep corner. 4-5 hours. The hard pitches 5-7 stay in the shade until 10-11am. Two 50m ropes needed for a abseil. Bolted belays.

P1-P4, 5a/5.7/V+: hangers stolen but the grade is consistent and climbing can still be done using the grass tufts on the 5a slab running for 110m. Normally soloed up the belay where the angle changes on the orange face but can also be protected by slinging the tufts and vellozia. Still caution must be exercised, more especially on descent.

The following three hard pitches run for 100m and are very well bolted.

P5, 6b/5.10c/VII: Belay at a block at the base of a steep corner. Follow the bolts up a very steep slab.

P6-P7, 6c/5.11a/VII+: Great movement up a steep slab lead to the start of a crack system with a steep move onto a chockstone ledge belay. Strenuous moves continue up the corner crack, with a delicate step across and up to the next belay. P7 is slightly overhang; a chimney squeeze and layback crux.

P8-P10, 4a/5.4/IV: These final three pitches are very easy tufted slabs similar to the beginning pitches. The route finishes at a fairly arbitrary point so it may be better to abseil down from the top of P7

The longest of the modern lines. This route reaches The Terrace below the main face. 11+ hours to ascend, bivy possible. Two 50m ropes for abseil down. Also possible to escape the route to the terrace.

P1-P4, 200m: Many hangers have been stolen in the first 4 pitches, so finding the line can be hard. Climbing 5.7 the first three pitches and 5.10a P4. Possible to climb The Initiation and then abseil down to the small ledge at the end of P6 where a bivy is possible.

P6,50m 5c/5.9/VI:

P7,50m 6c/5.10c/VII: A move up a small overlap leads to a steepening buttress with some tricky moves near the top.

P8, 40m 7b/5.12b?VIII+ A0: The pitch moves up a steeper corner crack. The bolts are placed close together to allow aid climbing once the hard moves are reached.

P9,50m 3+/5.3/III: After the aid pitch, a straightforward slab leads rightwards and up to a very large ledge. Here it is possible to bivouac comfortable or walk off to the left.

P10-P11 100m: two steep lead up before the rock eases, grades 5.9 and 5.10b.

P12 50m, 5a/5.7/V+

P13-P15 110m 3+/5.3/III: Easy slabs with tufts with bolts for belays only to the terrace.

This formerly run out route has been updated by James Garrett and is now well protected. It can also be climbed and descended with a single 60m rope. One of the most climbed routes.

It is called “The Initiation” because while we were establishing the route, we could hear the sounds of drums from the villages that were coming from a multi day ceremony which signified the entrance to adulthood for local teens. It was also Scott and Emily’s first time going ground up on a first ascent so it was somewhat of an initiation in that sense as well.

Pitch 1 - an easy slab pitch.

Pitch 2 - follow the bolts up the featured slab

Pitch 3 - more featured slab with a few friction moves

Pitch 4 - easy slab pitch

Pitch 5 - more easy slab

Pitch 6 - more slab, slightly steeper

Pitch 7 - more slab climbing with a bulge to pull

Pitch 8 - slightly steeper pitch, finish route at 2 bolt anchor then rappel

All pitches are 30m or less. It would be possible to link P1/P2, P3/P4, P5/P6 and P7/P8 and do this route in 4 pitches. Bring some slings and extra draws if you plan on linking many pitches. Otherwise a 60m rope and 12 quickdraws is all you need

This route could be extended but there would be some heavy vegetation to deal with.

Protection: Dozen QDs and 6-8 alpine runners/draws/slings. No trad gear placements. One x 60m rope for 20 Rappels. Or with two ropes can be a rappelled in 10-11.

Find a large pointed triangular rock feature at the base of this broad wall. A local porter/ Guide named Witness knows it well and will lead you directly to it. Ruth, the owner of the Hikers Nest Hostel ( a great bivy with excellent meals, btw) can contact him and handle all of your logistical needs.

The people of Malawi are wonderful and welcoming. Mulanje is a mere 60km from Blantyre and when I go next time, I won’t even bother with a rental car.

Find a line of bolts following a white streak to the right of the pointy rock.

Pitch #1: Climb the Slab up delightful rock on the white streak with great movement to a nice ledge and two bolt belay. 5.7, 60m, 14 bolts.

Pitch #2: Follow the bolts straight up the compact slab between the grass tufts to another two-bolt belay. 5.7+, 55m, 14 bolts.

Pitch #3: Continue up the obvious swath passing some tricky bulges to a two bolt belay. 5.8, 60m, 13 bolts.

Pitch #4: Climb past a lower angle run out section and pass a nice ledge to some thin crimpy moves on black granite with nice quartz bands to another two bolt semi hanging belay. 5.8, 60m, 13 bolts.

Pitch #5: Steep crimpy slab straight up, then trend right back to the white water groove. Sustained quality climbing for this crux pitch to a two bolt belay. 5.9 (+?), 60m, 17 bolts.

Pitch #6: Continue straight up the White Streak impeccable granite. Two bolt belay. 5.9, 60m, 13 bolts.

Pitch #7: Follow the bolts to a huge tree and an awaiting oasis like alcove above. Good pitch on excellent rock ending at a two bolt belay at the “oasis”.... a cool shady spot at the base of a vegetated steep headwall. The Wall Register container left here previously was stolen and destroyed by another climbing party. 5. 8, 52m, 8 bolts.

Pitch #8: Surge straight up from the belay Climbing delightful Patina features to an interesting ramp up a corner. Turn the corner to an easy clean slab. Pass a rap station midway and Continue up more slab dotted with tufa-like features to a two-bolt Belay on a rounded ledge. 5.7, 50m, 7 bolts.

Pitch #9: Continue up the low angle slab past a few short steep steps to a two bolt belay. 5.5, 60m. 6 bolts.

Pitch #10: A few more steep steps up clean, but easy slab. 5.5, 55m, 5 bolts.

Pitch #11: More easy slab to a big blocky boulder negotiated on the right. 4th class, bolted belay 60m.

Scrambling past grasses and bushes to a bolt belay on a good ledge.

Pitch #12 (The Headwall): Climb the long final (atypical difficulty compared to all other pitches on P&P) pitch up a very steep whitish colored streak to the forested rim and fully atop the lower Chambe Face. 14 bolts, 5.11++++, 60m. FA: Mark Jenkins, Mark Richey, and Geoff Tabin.

As of September 24, the Rappels are possible with one 60m rope with some easy down climbing (except the Pitch #12 Headwall-2 ropes) and 30m low drag pitches may be climbed.

If this was located anywhere else in the climbing world, it would be climbed every day.

Dozen QDs and 6-8 alpine runners/draws/slings. No trad gear placements. One x 60m rope for 20 Rappels. Or with two ropes can be a rappelled in 10-11.

We hiked up to base of the Chambe Face intent on climbing Passion And Pain, but found it dripping with water. We equipped this instead. Named after the “flocks” of beautiful white dotted neck ravens soaring above. two 60m ropes need for abseils (P1-P3 can be climbed with a single 60m rope).

Pitch#1: Short easy slabbing on excellent grippy granite to a two bolt belay. 5.5, 25m, 7 bolts.

Pitch #2: Continue straight up nicely featured steeper rock with fun movement to a two bolt belay. 5.7, 30m, 6 bolts.

Pitch #3: “The Headwall”, trend a bit right following bolts to a two bolt belay. 5.8, 30m, 11 bolts. Climb up 3-4m above the two bolt belay to a huge ledge belay for P4.

Pitch #4: Long and sparsely bolted at the moment, however, so to be in keeping with the character of the route would need some more bolts! The rock on this pitch is very coarse and featured so friction works really well up to a two bolt belay; holds wont break. 5.8+ , 60m, 4 bolts.

Pitch #5: Just like P4, this pitch is long and sparsely bolted (expect some 15-20m runouts) but many of the holds could still come off. It definitely requires more cleaning. This pitch joins Passion and Pain at the end. 5.8, 60m, 4 bolts.

Rappel the route or rappel over to P&P and rappel down from there.

Because of issues of theft of hangers on the lower pitches of the slab (usually P1-21, but sometimes up to P4), new developers for new routes must use stainless steel glue-in bolts where there is a high change people can steal them but can continue with bolts and hangers going further from P2.

Mulanje is a world heritage conservation Biome. Bolting is only permissible after careful consideration of the effects the proposed line will have on the sensitive environment there. Climb Malawi, Mountain Club or Malawi and Mulanje Mountain Conservation Trust need to be consulted prior to any bolting expedition (one of the 3 is fine).

FA: Ed Nhlane and Aleksandar Grahovac, 23 May 2024. The first ascensionists climbed this route on a whim when they couldn't do West Face Direct because of bad weather. Instead of carrying down the few bolts which would have been used to replace the old ones on the route, they decided to put them to use here. 15m left of the Base Camp at the terrace (and ~50m left of Kuche Kuche)

The climb follows split feature involving a style of stemming and jamming. Crux comes between bolts 3 and 4 to get over the small roof. A hidden hold in the crack below it and a couple of chokestones are also useful here. Climb up beneath the tree over the ledge to a belay/abseil anchor.

NB: Extend draws at bolts 2 and 3 to reduce rope drag.

See topo

Kuche Kuche (all night long) takes a direct line up the center of the longest part of the upper west face of Chambe. The route was established in a two week push, going ground up, placing over 230 bolts and rappel anchors. This is a well protected route with the exception of the pitch nine 5.8 R. Spacious belays, quality rock and rope stretcher pitches all added up to an excellent fifteen-hour round trip first accent.

Protection: All pitches and rappels are equipped with 3/8 stainless steel bolts. 18 draws for the longer pitches should do it. Two 70 meter ropes are needed for the rappels.

This is the second part of the 1700m route going up on the main wall.

Route is divided into two parts: the lower 600m V, A1 slab and the upper 650m VI , A1 to the peak of Chambe, separated by a massive 450m terrace. The upper wall it involves runouts and strenuous chimney style going up a major fault line and tricky placements of protection, and tree-belay stations. Some bolts have been placed on some parts of the route, but given that this route has not seen many repeats, the state of the bolts is unknown.

The crux is the first 3-4 pitches along main crack system that lead to a good bivouac below a steepening chimney and later reach a major overhang.

Descent: By Chambe East Ridge hiking route to the Hut on the Basin.