Melanesia Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Melanesia 355 routes in Region

4 5 7 1 2

1 Fiji 2 Nouvelle-Calédonie 4 Papua New Guinea 5 Solomon Islands 7 Vanuatu

Summary:

E

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Estacionalidad

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -10.516399, 161.483990

1.1. Fiji 2 routes in Region

2 1

1 Yanuca Island 2 New crag

Summary:

Todo Psicobloc (deep water solo)

Lat / Long: -17.879144, 176.732947

descripción

The Fijian mainland and its surrounding islands are host to a small number of climbing locations (mainly bouldering), the rock here is not great and conditions sweaty, but not to deter those who are willing.

1.1.1. Yanuca Island 0 routes in Area

descripción

Island has potential with multiple faces on the far western beaches behind the surf camps. Also potential all most headlands for DWS routes, mostly overhanging.

Acceso

Boat Trip to island approx $25USD/P each way.

1.1.2. New crag 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -16.850950, 177.466614

1.2. Nouvelle-Calédonie 172 routes in Region

2 1

1 Fort Tereka 2 Koumac

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -20.524792, 164.485161

descripción

Climbing is relatively new to New Caledonia. With the island being one big 500km long mountain range and a bunch of keen French climbers now resident here, this will no doubt be a space to watch for Aussies wanting an island climbing holiday in the future.

The main area is the limestone at Koumac on the West Coast in the far north of the island with the beautiful Grottes de Koumac and Roches De Notre Dame. Although Hieghene on the north end of the notrth end of the stunning east coast promises a wonderland with a vast amount of limestone cast towers and faces not unlike parts of Thailand.

http://vertikaledonie.com/

1.2.1. Fort Tereka 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -22.250739, 166.390292

Resumen

Very close to Noumea and great view!

descripción

Pretty much the only natural crag I found in the Noumea area, it's all bolted by the ffme (the french federation) and relatively short but there are some cool moves and the view is very nice. Most of the climbs are easy but there are few harder overhangs routes. The beach is a must to wash the sweat off after a session since the crag is in the sun from early morning to late afternoon.

restricciones

By road, 15 minutes drive from Noumea. -22.250853, 166.389721

Acceso

From Noumea, drive towards the University of New Caledonia in Nouville. Continue on the road until you hit Kuendu bay but turn right before the beach/hotel and then take the first dirt road on the right, at the fork keep left and climbing all the way to the canons. The climbs are at the top you can't miss them.

1.2.2. Koumac 164 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -20.489960, 164.308735

descripción

An area of limestone hills approx 400 kms north of Noumea.

Topo : Grimper à Koumac, FFME, 2017 300 francs CFP

http://vertikaledonie.com/topo-numerique-koumac/

Acceso

Follow the main highway North from Noumea to the village of Koumac where camping can be found by the sea. The town has a few general stores and a couple of restaurants, a small population bolstered by the nearby mines, fishing and tourism from the reef.

Historia

The area was bolted in recent years by a bunch of keen french locals. An amount of money was supplied for the equipping from the French Alpine Federation and the local Tourism board. The routes are very well bolted with lower off and large expansion bolts or glue ins.

1.2.3. Haute Nehoué 0 routes in Crag

1.2.4. Poya 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.5. Nouville 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.6. Koutio 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.7. Hienghène 0 routes in Cliff

1.3. South Pacific 86 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Resumen

Big orange walls with an atmospheric feel.

restricciones

Easy if you have a private yacht

Acceso

By sea

Alojamiento

In a resort

Ética

If bolting new routes please avoid squeeze jobs, linkups or variant starts/finishes. There is enough rock for lots of independent lines. Go for a walk! If your proposed line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision. Avoid damaging any vegetation in this area. No dogs or camping.

1.3.1. Trad Sector 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

Escalada clásica y Escalada deportiva

1.3.2. Half Baked Wall 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Escalada deportiva y Escalada en roca

descripción

Stella looking wall on the opposite side of fists of fury.

1.3.3. Palm Jungle 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

1.3.4. Descent Gully - Left Side 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

1.3.5. Right Side Slabs 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

descripción

You know where they are. Warm up here !

1.3.6. Mid Level ledge. 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

descripción

Ledge above the Underworld.

Acceso

From the right side slab area head left facing the slab up the slight hill and follow the ledge. Rap chains for Decadence Wall are at the end of this sector.

1.3.7. Underworld 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

descripción

Directly below Descent Slabs

1.3.8. Decadence Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Escalada en roca y Escalada clásica

Acceso

Walk 20m past the descent slabs to an orange wall with rap chain. Rap down to obvious belay ledge.

1.3.9. Cliffhanger Wall 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Escalada deportiva y Escalada clásica

descripción

An alcoved area spanning between two domineering hanging aretes at either end.

Acceso

Follow the ground track around from the bottom of Decadence Wall then scramble up (access rope) to the alcove to start the climbs. Alternatively you can walk along the top from the main access gully to the top of the 'Ships Prow' and rappel down down the corner (Freaks And Geeks).

1.3.10. Secret Gully 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

1.3.11. The Outpost 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

1.3.12. Beach Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Acceso

Best approached by continuing along the walking track past the main entry to “Bargo Crag” via the decent gully. Walk 250m further until the path begins to turn to the right and then head left in the direction of the beach.

You will find the decent gully here. The wall is on the left.

1.4. Papua New Guinea 1 route in Region

1

1 Port Moresby

Summary:

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -4.650015, 149.912479

descripción

Very little climbing appears to have been done in recent times. Heaps of opportunity here for the adventurous and dedicated. Watch this space...

restricciones

Access must be arranged with local landowners as 90+% of land is customary and some cliff tops or caves at base of cliffs are burial grounds so completely off limits. Expect to pay compensation for all access

Alojamiento

Expensive hotels in the cities. Some guest houses in towns, anything else should be arranged through a local guide

Ética

No bolts yet

Historia

A guide for Port Moresby was published in the 70's by Keith Ross and Andrew Webb. At least half the Hindenburg wall was climbed by speleologists. There has been climbing in the past few decades but nothing seems to have been recorded.

1.4.1. Port Moresby 1 route in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -9.457318, 147.157560

1.5. Solomon Islands 0 routes in Region

1.6. Piccadilly rainforest 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Todo Escalada clásica

descripción

Spicy and fun trad climbing

Acceso

60 metre rappel fixed line. bring ascenders!!

1.7. Vanuatu 0 routes in Region

1.8. Telopea 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Resumen

Premium quality lines

descripción

Guaranteed good time

Acceso

Rappel from the top or approach from the bottom of the cliffs. Access to Telopea is via short traversing pitch from an elevated ledge of ferns. After rounding the first arétte you will find two bolts, the belay for Onward and Upward. To access the rest of the routes, follow the fixed ropes around a second arette to a larger ledge.

Alojamiento

On board the ships prow

Ética

Minimal impact

1.9. Coral Sea 83 routes in Area

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Resumen

If you know you know

1.9.1. The Church 83 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Resumen

Great quality sandstone, a variety of sectors, with face, slab and the occasional prickle bush..

descripción

This is a complex area and as such is not well suited for those that are new to outdoor climbing. The ledges on the shady side are up to 80m off the ground, so be cautious not to tumble off the edge when walking around staring up at the walls. Use a minimum 60m rope, tie a knot in the tail end, pack a helmet and clip in on the access ropes. If you are working a route, lower off your own gear NOT THE ANCHORS.

restricciones

None, always treat the area with the utmost respect so it stays this way.

Alojamiento

The Campsite

Ética

Stay on established tracks and avoid damaging any vegetation in this area. - DO NOT go to the toilet on any of the ledges, take a walk down to ground level and bury it or better yet go before you get there. Give the holds a brush when lowering to minimise chalk build up.

Historia

Once upon a time