Un pico cerca de San José de las Boquillas al filo del limite del estado de NL.
Hermoso lugar lleno de posibilidades para escalada de alta montaña. La Gloria por el momento tiene 2 Rutas principales de increíble calidad. El armador principal Zach Clanton junto con Amigos como Dave Henkel abrieron estas lineas totalmente deportivas.
There are two different ways to get to the “Gateway”. Through a washed gully or through the donkey trails. We include both ways.
Donkey trail: (Boby & Sebas Beta)
Gully access: (Zachs beta)
From the parking area (25.36403, -100.39747), follow the driveway down to the creek with yellow irrigation pipes and a lone Boulder off to your left in an apple orchard area. Cross the creek and head right towards the entrance of the main drainage. - Head up this dry creek for 2/3 of the hike staying right at any point of question. There are rock cairns at one obvious fork. Don't get sucked into any of the donkey trails that traverse the wash! - Eventually, after ascending a series of 10 to 15m slab steps, you will start finding cairns. At the top of the final gully slab with a large cairn, trend up and right following cairns to a short 5.5 step.
Above the step, you enter another rough wash that leads up to a series of zig zags through ledges and slabs. Keep following cairns but choose your own adventure if you get off route. - Eventually, you will traverse far right to the "Gateway". Marked by a cairn, this serves as the lone entrance for the final ramps and steps that lead to the base of La Gloria.
Once you have found the “Gateway” take the left trending ramp up to the Pika Step where you will find a short rope hanging from a two-bolt anchor. Climb the wide crack, top out, and traverse right for 15m before heading up to the final slab.
Climb the 25m 5.3 slab and ramp system up to another two-bolt rappel anchor (both rappel anchors on the approach are not actually needed in dry conditions but serve as emergency rappel anchors in the event of a climber becoming injured or if a rain storm sneaks up on you. Downclimbing these sections could be potentially very dangerous in certain circumstances and if anything, the bolts act as excellent trail markers in a place where it’s easy to get lost!)
Once you reach the top of the final rappel anchor, you are on the home stretch. Angle up and left on another series of ramps, sidewalks, and slabs (aiming for the base of the route) until you reach a section of loose gravel-like trail that brings you to the bivy.
This can take from 1:30 to 5 hours depending on how light you are and how well you find the trail.
Muy recomendado hacer esta aventura en 3 dias. Uno para subir, uno para escalar y descender la ruta y otro para hacer la caminata de bajada.
Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.
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★★★ Rezando 5.11d - 1b29b602-6026-417d-afea-6ef180197b97.JPG
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