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La Gloria

  • Contexto de grado: US
  • Fotos: 2
  • Ascensiones: 1
2
YDS

Estacionalidad

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Resumen

Un pico cerca de San José de las Boquillas al filo del limite del estado de NL.

Descripción

Hermoso lugar lleno de posibilidades para escalada de alta montaña. La Gloria por el momento tiene 2 Rutas principales de increíble calidad. El armador principal Zach Clanton junto con Amigos como Dave Henkel abrieron estas lineas totalmente deportivas.

Acceso

There are two different ways to get to the “Gateway”. Through a washed gully or through the donkey trails. We include both ways.

Donkey trail: (Boby & Sebas Beta)

  • Follow the Ridgeline donkey trail until you reach a more vertical wall, take a left and look for a blue rope. https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-gloria-climbing-basecamp-94160453

Gully access: (Zachs beta)

  • From the parking area (25.36403, -100.39747), follow the driveway down to the creek with yellow irrigation pipes and a lone Boulder off to your left in an apple orchard area. Cross the creek and head right towards the entrance of the main drainage. - Head up this dry creek for 2/3 of the hike staying right at any point of question. There are rock cairns at one obvious fork. Don't get sucked into any of the donkey trails that traverse the wash! - Eventually, after ascending a series of 10 to 15m slab steps, you will start finding cairns. At the top of the final gully slab with a large cairn, trend up and right following cairns to a short 5.5 step.

  • Above the step, you enter another rough wash that leads up to a series of zig zags through ledges and slabs. Keep following cairns but choose your own adventure if you get off route. - Eventually, you will traverse far right to the "Gateway". Marked by a cairn, this serves as the lone entrance for the final ramps and steps that lead to the base of La Gloria.

  • Once you have found the “Gateway” take the left trending ramp up to the Pika Step where you will find a short rope hanging from a two-bolt anchor. Climb the wide crack, top out, and traverse right for 15m before heading up to the final slab.

  • Climb the 25m 5.3 slab and ramp system up to another two-bolt rappel anchor (both rappel anchors on the approach are not actually needed in dry conditions but serve as emergency rappel anchors in the event of a climber becoming injured or if a rain storm sneaks up on you. Downclimbing these sections could be potentially very dangerous in certain circumstances and if anything, the bolts act as excellent trail markers in a place where it’s easy to get lost!)

  • Once you reach the top of the final rappel anchor, you are on the home stretch. Angle up and left on another series of ramps, sidewalks, and slabs (aiming for the base of the route) until you reach a section of loose gravel-like trail that brings you to the bivy.

This can take from 1:30 to 5 hours depending on how light you are and how well you find the trail.

Alojamiento

Muy recomendado hacer esta aventura en 3 dias. Uno para subir, uno para escalar y descender la ruta y otro para hacer la caminata de bajada.

Ética heredado de Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

Vías

Añadir vía(s) Añadir croquis Reordenar Edición en bloque Convertir grados
Grado Vía
1 5.10
2 5.10a
3 5.11a
4 5.9
5 5.10
6 5.11d
7 5.11a
8 5.10a
9 5.11d
10 5.6
11 5.11a
12 5.9
13 5.5

PITCH 1: 5.10 8 bolts 35m. Weave your way through the yucca and cactus on perfect limestone drip pockets until you reach a thinner technical sequence just before the anchor.

PITCH 2: 5.10- 8 bolts 5.10a 35m. Move right off the belay and over a small roof to some nice face climbing that leads into a corner system. Follow the corner to a large ledge.

PITCH3: 5.11 6 bolts 15m. NO rap anchor. The shortest pitch of the route offers the first crux and a delicate sequence that involved a heady cactus mantle above small gear on the first ascent.

PITCH 4: 5.9 7 bolts 25m. Possibly the funnest pitch on the route! Zig zag up a series of finger cracks and corners. Exposed face moves lead to the anchor hidden in an alcove/chimney.

PITCH 5: 5.10 9 bolts 35m. Stem up the chimney into easy face climbing terrain. As the wall steepens, head left through the balance crux and finish on more easy water grooves to the anchor.

PITCH 6: 5.11+ 13 bolts 30m. Sustained climbing on beautiful pockets lead up, as the wall gets steeper the holds get smaller. This pitch will have your attention until you clip the chains!

PITCH 7: 5.11 13 bolts 38m. Angle up right on steepening terrain to the wildly exposed crux bulge. Good rests lie just beyond but it is far from over. This pitch is as varied as it is exciting!

PITCH 8: 5.10- 9 BOLTS 30m. Easy face climbing leads up into an interesting dihedral. Exit the corner to the right and traverse to the anchor. PITCH 9: 6 bolts 5.11+ 25m. Pull a V3 boulder problem right off the belay then cruise 5.6 terrain up the anchor at a nice flat ledge. Do this boulder problem and you are home free. Atop pitch 9 is a 10m flat area. This sidewalk in the sky has anchors for the rappel but on the ascent, link this ledge into pitch 10. If you walk left from the anchor, another 10m away is the “Bottle Rocket Bivy” that was used for the first ascent. It sleeps two perfectly.

PITCH 10: 5.6 35m. An easy romp up to the base of a steep bulge.

PITCH 11: 5.11a 35m. Some tech moves right off the belay lead to easy causing terrain above.

PITCH 12: 5.9 35m. Just like pitch 11 but even easier. Can be combined with pitch 13 using runners.

PITCH 13: 2 bolts 5.5 35m You made it! Take off your harness and scramble 70m to the summit and bask in the glory that is La Gloria!

PAL: Michael Perry & Zach clanton

Equip: Zach clanton & Dave Henkel

OPEN PROJECT

The grade won’t be final until the free ascent but it already makes Rezando look like a casual day out sport cragging. There are pitches far easier and far harder than anything on Rezando. And unlike it’s neighbor with straightforward 35m rappels the whole way, you cannot get off Guerreras with one rope unless you leave gear and re-lead the traverse/downclimbs. The route has a very definitive feel of commitment. A fine adventure with some of the hardest pitches up high! 🙌🏼

The name was derived from an encounter I had with a family who has lived in the shadow of La Gloria since 1670. The oldest woman among them said that this place is “just for light seekers and warriors”

PA: Zach Clanton & Tony Pavlantos

¡Hola!

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