Vías en Front Side

Death

Climb the long obvious dihedral system up to the ridge.

About 30ft right of "Access Denied". P1: 5.9 P2: 5.11- loose rocks, stay on route. Good pitch P3: 5.12 hard pitch. p4: 5.10

Start in the left corner of the pillar and climb the chimney to the top of the piller, then move to the face and up. (3rd pitch is long, with intermediate anchor for the rappel.)

Climb Yogi's Pillar on the front left corner.

(Ed lists it as 5.7, 5.7 -- but nothing on the first pitch approaches 5.7, and the 2nd pitch seems soft at its grade, too.)

Climb Yogi's Pillar on the right side.

PARA PODER ACCEDER A ESTA PARED, ENTRA AL AREA DE ALBERCAS, Y EN LA PARTE CENTRAL VAS A VER UNAS ESCALERAS DE PIEDRA EN LA PARTE DE ABAJO A LA ALTURA DEL PILAR PRINCIPAL DONDE ESTA LIBERTAD Y YOGIS. SUBE POR ESAS ESCALERAS Y LLEGA A UN CHORREADERO DE GRANDES ROCAS, TOMA EL LADO IZQUIERDO Y COMIENZA A SUBIR APROXIMADAMENTE 5 MINUTOS, Y TE LLEVARA DIRECTO A LA BASE DE ESAS RUTAS.

-YOGI GOES TO MEXICO (MULTIPITCH) -WHEN THE CATS AWAYS THE RATS WILL PLAY (MULTIPITCH) -EL TIUCACHE -COATIMUNDI (COATI)

Climbs right of the pillar all the way to the top of the wall. (2nd pitch is long and has an intermediate anchor for rappel.)

TR the left side of the wall from the anchors of "Coatimundi".

This climb is on a small wall about 250 yards right of Yogi's Pillar.

Provides access to the "The Smurf Bowl".

Pitch 1: Start up an easy slab climbing cool features. Follow the weakness up and slightly right until you can gain a small ledge and belay. 10 bolts 5.7

Pitch 2: Move straight up off the belay through fun face and crack climbing. Top out on the slab then move up to a fantastic ledge and belay. 15 bolts 5.10a

This route is located about 10 meters right of Sky Top Buttress. The last route on the right hand side of El Mirador. Use the approach for Sky Top.

Bolts. Rap the route.

Left-most route, just outside the cave.

Right most route of the “Smurf Bowl”. Be careful not to jump onto “Chupacabras” on the 3rd bolt, instead keep going right.

Pitch 1: Start below an overhanging corner. Use good holds on the face to gain the first bolt. Staying left of the first 3 bolts goes at 5.10a, 5.9 to the right. Continue up the corner climbing a variety of features. The difficulty gradually decreases as you make your way up to a good ledge and belay. 35 meters 13 bolts

Pitch 2: Stem and face climb your way up the beautiful corner to a large ledge and belay. 32 meters 13 bolts

Pitch 3: Climb up the off width corner crack using a variety of techniques. 18 meters 8 bolts

Pitch 4: Move slightly left off the belay then straight up a face using big holds, cracks and pockets. There is a large semi detached flake left of the bolts and while this piece of rock has been judged to be ok it’s probably a good idea to avoid pulling on it. The intended line does not involve this flake. Traverse left onto a ledge then continue up another face to the last anchor below the summit. 28 meters 11 bolts

From here climb a short section of 4th class following a fixed line to the summit. This could also be pitched out and it would be possible to do a short rappel back to the p4 anchor off the quick link on the last bolt. 7 meters 3 bolts.

Descent: Rap the route with a 70 meter rope.

This route is located on the far left side of Zapatista Wall about 30 meters left Excalibur. The route goes up a corner system to a small summit on a ridgeline.

The infamous new route to the left of "Excalibur" actually climbs fairly well, with the exception of a few chossy sections. Could become much better and safer if the middle section was cleaned up a bit more.

Very high first bolt on P1, but a Tricam in a pocket helps. Otherwise generally well bolted (by EPC standards), though with one run-out on P2.

1. 30m, 10 bolts. Start a few meters left of Excalibur, in a slightly vegetated gully.

2. 30m, 8 bolts. Head up rightwards from anchor.

3. 36m, 14 bolts. Climb through roofs and dihedrals. To a semi-hanging belay to the right of the route.

4. 10m, 5 bolts. Short pitch to a small ledge.

5. 30m, 10 bolts. Up to the top of the ridge.

Continue past "Satori" for another 150 yards or so.

Another popular route sharing the first two pitches with "Satori". Get up early to be ahead of the crowds. Often climbed on warmer days because it sits in the shade all day. The climbing will have you in awe while the wandering bolting will have you remember what rope drag means if you don't deal with it.

1. 5.9 Fun climbing. There are a few unnecessary bolts off-route.

2. 5.10b Short crux off the anchor offers two beta options. Often linked with P1

3. 5.8 Climb up and left following a traversing bolt line. Alternatively, you can walk left and scramble up some 5.6 but you won't get the pleasure of clipping bolts.

4. 5.8 The start of that face you've heard so much about! Can be linked with the previous pitch with good rope drag management.

5. 5.10a This pitch shows you exactly what you're in for 95% of the remaining distance to the top.

6. 5.10b More of the same with a slight cruxier sequence. Keep a little energy for the burlier last few moves.

7. 5.10d Traverse left through the crux of the climb and enjoy the ride to the summit. People tend to traverse low (good hands) following the bolts, or traverse high (good feet) and skip the bolt that is farthest to the left.

Bring 20 draws for linking. Bring 13 draws plus 60m rope for single pitches.

Very popular route. Get up early to avoid the crouds. Best climbed on warm days since it is in the shade most of the day. Shares the first two pitches with "Off the couch"

Climbing

1. 5.9 Fun climbing to a ledge. There are a few unnecessary bolts off-route. There is a second anchor off to the right if the main one is occupied.

2. 5.10b short crux off the anchor offers two beta options. Often linked with P1

3. 5.9 Short unexpected crux comes early, then make use of your routefinding skills.

4. 5.10b Jamming, stemming, traversing will make your life easier. Don't be drawn too much into the path of least resistance.

5. 5.10a Fun exposed pitch.

6. 5.10c The crux goes through suspicious overhung flakes. Good foot technique will allow for much easier passage. Great positive holds breaks up the crux sequence.

7. 5.7 Can easily be linked with P6 with a little rope drag management. LOTS of loose rocks. Beware of parties below.

Very nice climb! most of the pitches are a bit hard for the grade. Pitch crux is a very technical slab. 2 ropes necessary.

Can be done with an 8 meter rope, but you will have to bail a biner to be able to rap to one of the anchors and also you will have to use the first anchor of Satori to get to the ground.

P1:This pitch is almost 50 mts long so you need 2 ropes for the rappel. techy climb on slab and vertical. P2: around 30m long P3: it traverses to the left with a spicy finish P4: short and powerfull climbs the roof P5: is like climbing a 30mts long fridge hugging.

for the rappel there is an anchor 8mts left of the 4th anchor. and form ther you can rappel 50mts down to anchor. ther you can move to the anchors of the route.

1st pitch 5.11a 2nd pitch 5.10c

30ft left of "Camino de Oro" follow a trail left (sometimes hard to see) until it hits the wall again. Shares last bolts with "Camino de Oro".

2 ropes recommended.

Starts above the old mine shaft and trends left to a first high bolt.

Passes the tufa on the left and up on the headwall.

Same start as Sesame Street Tufa, then up and right.

Primer largo del multilargo. First pitch of the multipitch

Requires a 70m rope.

Same start as "Land Of The Free". The 5th and 12th pitch are trad pitches requiring between .25" and 3" gear.

Shares 1st bolt and anchor with Freedom Fries.

This route starts on the upper ledge, go up the fixed rope and left along the cliff. The name is written on the wall (faint).

Requires 2 ropes. Starts on Apache Line.

Climbs thin face to large ledge half way up. Tends to have run-outs. 2 x 60m ropes recommended.

Climbs the cleanest, blankest, rock up the center of the central pillar. A climb made famous after Alex Honnold's free solo ascent.

Rapell down, a 70m rope is enough down to the top of pitch 5, then you need 2 50m ropes.

First pitch has 13 bolts and 45m, a 80m rope brings you down to bolt one and you can downclimb.

At the end of the 2nd pitch, follow the left bolt line.

Climb the first two pitches of "Vida Preciosa", then from the top of the 2nd pitch follow the right bolt line.

18 pitches, up to 5.10d. Originally done on gear, retro-bolted in 1999. Retro-bolting still leaves many runouts, and there is, also, lots of loose rock to keep the sense of adventure alive.

Starts about 150 feet past the cave. Pitch 3 has two variations, 5.10d to the right, and 5.12+ to the left.

This route was developed ground up Solo over 5 weeks and offers fantastic views of Hidalgo at an obtainable grade. Most of the climbing is 5.8 and 5.9 with a few short boulder problems mixed in.

Pitch 1 - 5.9 25 m 12 bolts

Pitch 2 - 5.8 23 m 10 bolts

Pitch 3 - 5.8 37 m 14 bolts

Pitch 4 - 5.11- 20 m 9 bolts

Pitch 5 - 5.10 33m 13 bolts

From the anchor of pitch 5 climb 30ft of 3rd/4th class with a past 2 bolts to base of pitch 6 and a fairly flat ledge

Pitch 6 - 5.8 25m 9 bolts

Pitch 7 - 5.10- 25m 12 bolts

Pitch 8 - 5.10- 25m 9 bolts

Pitch 9 - 5.10 25m 10 bolts

Pitch 10 - 5.10- 30m 11 bolts

Pitch 11- 5.9 30m 9 bolts

Rap the route with a 70M. All standard raps down the route. When arriving at the pitch 6 belay anchor walk with the fix ropes to pitch 5 anchor to continue rapping. When rapping pitch 4 go to the lower anchor with the chain links.

Unrepeated since first ascent due to huge amounts of loose rock. Several parties have been injured or backed off on this.

(2nd pitch started, but not finished as of 2012.)

Overview:

• 'Approach' pitches, 1-6: 5.11-, 11-, 9, 8, 8, 8
• 'Bivy' Ledge (complete with fire pit, stashed sleeping bag, pads, blankets, dice, backgammon and Yahtzee =)
• 'Middle' pitches, 7-15: 5.4, 12-/10+A0, 9, 10, 11, 11, 10+, 11, 12/10A0
• 'Lunch Ledge'
• 'Upper' pitches, 16-27: 5.10, 9, 9+,10, 11, 9, 10, 9+, 9, 8, 10, 7
• Descent: WALK OFF

Descent Beta... from the northern summit, walk the knife-edge ridge to the southern summit, turn right, roughly following the ridge-line (but staying slightly below on the southern side) to a notch. one rappel into the col, cross the col, and hike back up to the ridge-line to join the Toro trail at the cross.

NOTES: - this is not just a long 'sport' route, like "Timewave". It is a different beast, altogether, very alpine, adventure climbing. Major commitment, big exposure, traverses, some choss, etc... - you can bail reasonably well up through pitch 17. Rappelling from above that point will be complicated, at best, due to traverses. If you do pitch 18, you are pretty committed to going to the top.

• during the FA, it was decided that pitch 20 needs another bolt at the crux. Its a little runout and exposed. I will fix this next season, but didn´t want to hold back opening the route to the public. fair warning, however... we fashioned a stick-clip on the spot.
• I have done a LOT of cleaning, but until the route sees traffic, there will always be some loose rock. pitches 3 and 7 are particularly chossy (but easy).
• pitches 5 and 6 are not current rappelable, due to the traverse and lack of rings (you could of course leave biners or quicklinks). there is currently a fixed rope. it is in good condition as of this writing.
• there are still fixed lines on most of the harder sections, pitches 1-2, 8, 10-15. pitch 20 does NOT have a fixed line
• Linking... most pitches are between 25-30m. all can be rappeled with 60m. most can be linked. 14,15, and 18 you definitely want to pitch out. 19, 20, 21, use your judgement (we chose to pitch them out, but i think you could 20-21). 24-25 i linked, but drag was pretty rough at the top.
• the photo below was done early on. slight changes in the route were made, and the upper pitch numbers (which were estimated) turned out incorrect. i dont have an original photo to reproduce the image (feel free to send me one, Rancho Sendero is a good vantage point). its not perfect, but its close. it should give you an idea of the route, at least.

Feel free to contact can contact Eric Werfel at eric.werfel@gmail.com with questions.