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Hombros Wall

  • Contexto de grado: US
  • Ascensiones: 1
1
YDS

Estacionalidad

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Resumen

Giant north facing wall.

Ética heredado de El Salto; C.d.G.

Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful!

Etiquetas

Vías

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Grado Vía
1 5.9
2 5.10a
3 5.11a
4 5.10
5 5.10
6 5.10+

This 6 pitch route is now open to the public. Established ground up with removable bolts but bolted with stainless steel glue-in wave bolts on rappel. Someday it will go all the way to the top, an estimated 6 more pitches. But the halfway height shouldn’t stop people from climbing it now and enjoying getting some elevation.

If I have seen further than others, it is by standing upon the shoulders of giants. - Isaac Newton

The name is to recognize all the pioneers that went before me that helped establish Mexico climbing, I would name them all but then I would forget someone deserving of much respect. Also, one of our bolting party Dylan is a very tall man with a very long ape index and an even bigger appetite for adventure. Given what he has been through adventuring with me he deserves to have a climb named after him. To top it all off to me also the top of the mountain looks like two shoulders.

Pitch 1 5.9 - Starts at the top of the vegetated boulder field, look for the bolts that go up, start climbing. Pitch 2 5.10a - Some really nice quality climbing. Be sure to touch the palm tree for good luck. Pitch 3 5.11a - This is the crux pitch but the hard section is bolted close enough you could French free it if you needed to. Palm tree makes a nice rest ledge before starting the cruxy section. Pitch 4 5.10 - A lot of yucca died so you could enjoy this pitch, but don’t worry, they aren’t coming back and they left behind some face climbing for you. Pitch 5 5.10 Touch the palm tree for good luck, this is palm tree #3 on the route. Pitch 6 5.10+ Cool finishing moves near the top of the pitch.

Route Development by (in no particular order): Joel Schopp, John Deas, Dylan Weldin, Heath Dieckert, Jason Mann, & Lynne Maphies. Thanks to my wife and kids for putting up with several trips across the border and back.

Random notes: * Pitch 1 is shorter at maybe 23m, everything else is about 28m-30m. Can rappel it all with a 60 if you tie stopper knots. * Pitch 4, 5, and 6 wander a bit and will require some swinging if rappeled with 1 rope. If you do double rope rappels top of 6->4->2 it goes a lot straighter. * The climb gets sun starting about 9am until about noon because it faces east and a bit north. The deep cliff shade in the afternoon makes it tolerable to climb this late into the climbing season. Especially since the canyon stays 10-15 degrees cooler F than Monterrey.

Equip: Joel Schopp, John Deas, Dylan Weldin, Heath Dieckert, Jason Mann & Lynne Maphies

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Dom 25 Jun
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