Nodos en Kučke planine

A group of mountains known by the common name Kučke mountains is stretching north-east of Podgorica. Its highest peak is Surdup Peak, with an altitude of 2184masl. There are 14 peaks with the elevation over 2000 metres. In this massif there are also two mountain lakes: Bukumirsko Lake and Rikavačko Lake. Bukumirsko Lake is situated in the northern massif of these mountains, about 45 kms north of Podgorica, that is to say some 40 kilometres south of Kolašin. The elevation of the valley in which the lake is located is 1300 to 1350 metres and the valley is home for several katuns inhabited in the period from June to September. Kučke Mountains have been discovered by the mountain lovers rather late. The beginnings of alpine ascents date back to the end of the nineties of the last century when the members of the Alpine Section of Belgrade climbed several first ascents.

How to Get There

The lake can be reached along several travel routes, the common characteristic of which is a very bad gravel road in the last kilometres. Podgorica-Kržanja-Kastrat-Bljuštura-Bukumirsko Lake - around 45 kms. Asphalt road from Podgorica to Kastrat, further on gravel road for some 15 kilometres. Podgorica-Bioče-Veruša-Mokra-Bukumirsko Lake - about 50 kms. Asphalt road from Podgorica to Topli potok (few kilometres away from Veruša), further on the gravel road for some 5 to 6 kms. Kolašin-Mateševo-Veruša-Mokra-Bukumirsko Lake - around 40 kms. Asphalt road from Kolašin to Topli potok, further on a gravel road for some 5 to 6 kms.

Buses run along the road Podgorica-Veruša, Podgorica-Kržanja and Kolašin-Mateševo, therefore in combinations bus-hike, the latter takes 8 to 15kms (usually with the loaded rucksack on your back). Bus regularly departs from Podgorica only in the morning term, afternoon departures and departures starting from Kolašin depend on incredibly large number of different factors, so relying on those is not exactly the smartest thing to do.

Accommodation

In the valley there are many places suitable for camping, all depending on season, camper's tiredness or the want to socialise, from katuns and their immediate surroundings, to the meadows between Torač Peak and Pasjak Peak. There are springs with drinkable water in a totally satisfactory number. Since there are no mountain huts or developed bivouacs, tents are necessary.

Pasjak Peak is a marked peak rising at the eastern end of the valley, virtually in the very centre of the circle formed by Torač Peak, Veliki Toljevac Peak, Štitan Peak, Surdup Peak and Velji Vrh Peak. It is 2025m high and it has two obvious ridges -the north-west ridge and the south ridge as well as the three noticeable rock faces - the north face, the east face and the south-west face. Crags have an average height of 200m and a relatively good quality, although, as in all large limestone crags, loose datails are not a rarity at all.

Via normale approach (as well as the descent ) leads along the south ridge. Marked mountain trail leads from the very lake to the summit of Pasjak zigzaging through the narrow valley between Torač Peak and Pasjak Peak, then avoiding Pasjak Peak from the east in order to reach the ridge plateau, where it forks. The northern fork leads along the ridge to Pasjak, while the southern fork turns toward the col between Štitan Peak and Surdup Peak. It takes about 1.30 hrs to get from the lake to this fork. The crags themselves and the north-west ridge of Pasjak Peak are a serious rock climbing challenge. Their average height doesn't go over 200m, but the lengths of the routes leading along them are always over this figure, since those routes also imply a lot of hiking along the broken highland terrain with plenty of crevices and ravines, and that is particularly noticeable in the north rock face and the north-west ridge. Those, actually, consist of three sections: the lower barrier, with the height of 30-70m, stretching along the whole length of the north rock face, then a large ledge, charactarized by all above-mentioned features, and the crest which is the most attractive section of the peak itself. Within it there are several prominent details - the north-west ridge, large scree leading from the ledge to below the very summit, and the central head, which is with the above-mentioned scree separated from the north-west ridge, while from the eastern section of the rock it is divided by a long, prominent chimney.

Climbing in the crags of Pasjak should be taken very seriously. On 2 August 2002, Vesna Drakulić and Bojana Tekić, members of the AOB(Alpine Section of Belgrade), lost their lives exactly while climbing one of the routes in the north-west ridge. The memorial plaque situated on the ledge where they were seen for the last time, is not just a memento to the friends who are not among us any more, but also a warning to all those people whose attention and carefullness sometimes weakens in a searh for an adventure

Surdup Peak is the highest peak in the region. It has an elevation of 2184masl and a prominent north rock face with the height of about 200m, made of horizontal layers climbing stair-like towards the summit. The crag is of a solid quality. The peak can be reached along the marked mountain trail from Bukumirsko Lake. The north rock face of Surdup Peak is divided in two sections - the eastern and the western, which are separated by a wide ridge of Velji Vrh leaning against Surdup Peak. All descents lead down the south-eastern slope towards the saddle between Surdup Peak and Štitan Peak, and further on down the scree towards Pasjak Peak. In the winter, when snow partially „level" the terrain, it is easier to descend to the lake through the pass between Pasjak Peak and Velji Vrh, while in the summer, it is more advisable to opt for a classic marked trail, which is fairly longer, but also much more pleasant for walk.

Štitan Peak itself has an altitude of 2147masl. It belongs to a group of the highest peaks of the Žijevo mountain range and is one of the peaks with the most stunning view on this mountain. It is caracterized by a large north rock face with an obvious grassed ledge which divides two dominant short rocky verticals, and a large amphitheatre which is open to the west. Crags doesn't go above the height of 200m; those are mostly of a good quality (especially in two above-mentioned short rocky verticals) although there are also loose sections in the grassed and dropped gullies. A marked mountain trail leads to the summit, and as for other mountain approaches these are identical to those which are described in the section on Surdup Peak. From the described trail to Surdup Peak, this trail forks on the saddle between those two peaks and it is the most ideal descent to the valley of Bukumirsko Lake.

This is the last peak in the Đebeza - Torač ridge. It has an elevation of 1900masl. It is caracterized by two prominent rock faces, the south and the west. The west face is higher and rather loose, while the southern one is about 100m high, very compact and offers perhaps the best climbing in the surroundings. The best approach to the summit is along the mountain trail leading from Bukumirsko Lake along the slope of Torač and approaching the summit from the north-western side. The trail goes past the permanent spring.

Velji vrh starts or closes (depending on the side from where it is looked at) the circle around Pasjak Peak. Its main ridge, spreading in the direction north-south, leans against the rock face of Surdup Peak, dividing it in eastern and western section. It is characterized by the imposing east rock face, rising up from the dale between Pasjak Peak and Velji vrh, then a wide barrier which turns into the ridge and rims the peak from north, as well as the west face which, intersected with ravines and ramps is its most approachable climbing area, too. The peak is 2020m high, and the height of its crags varies. The highest is the east one, which in its highest section has the height of 200m. The north rock face is pretty loose, it is about 150m high, and it leads directly to the top ridge which is so narrow that one should "ride" at least further two rope lengths in order to reach the flatter ground. The north-west face is between 100 and 150m in height, the crag is of a relatively good quality, except on the ridge and in the ravines where there is a lot of deposits. Mountain ascent leads from Bukumirsko Lake, avoiding the peak from the west in a wide circle, so the final section of ascent is performed over a hard crevice-covered terrain between the west part of Surdup Peak and the slopes of Velji Vrh peak. There is no marked trail. Descent from the peak down the direct valley implies at least two abseils, so it is not recommended for less experienced and unequipped climbing parties.