Nodos en Ōtepoti / Dunedin

Long Beach is a beautiful coastal crag located near the city of Dunedin. Expect many a trad route, though development has being highly productive, producing a large array of sport routes.

The dark rock, beyond Southern Wall

The lovely corner. Access using via ferrata and traversing right along chain.

Pull along the right-hand via ferrata then head up the lower section of Little Rocket Man. When you've reached the halfway ledge move the belay right a couple of metres to another set of rings. Head right across the stacked blocks and up into the corner. Exciting climbing to the cruxy, pinched-off top on great rock. Swing out right onto the face to a ring belay up high. Belay here or continue out left and around the corner to Little Rocket Man's upper belay (about grade 18).

Aid your way up the chain to the base of the climb! Then follow the open book corner, which requires some thinking in parts. When you exit the corner, step left to the anchor.

Scramble up to the fixed rope to belay from the grassy ledge. Move out left onto the breccia wall then straight up the line.

Scramble up the fixed rope (which can be used as a runner) and after clipping the first bolt of 'Weak Flesh' head up and right over a big flake and into the corner. Surmount three steps then make an unlikely move out right to a big jug on the arete. Pad on up to the summit.

From the fixed rope scramble up to the base of the pillar (2 bolts protect on the side wall). Wind your way up just left of the corner and over onto the ledge at the halfway mark. Straight up the corner onto the top of the pillar.

Start at the base of New Horizons and head out left along a ledge and around the point. Up into the corner and onto the top of a truncated pillar. Squeeze out onto the big sloping ledge above then up the edge of a gently overhanging flake.

Finesse your way up the blank-looking face into the crux, and either test your static reach or resolve your commitment issues for a double dyno to the rail! If you're rocking a shorter stature this might be grade 24 or harder - good luck with the mono alternative beta.. Manoeuvre up towards easier terrain and finish at the shared anchor as for Ride the Spiral.

A great wee route which is currently overgrown with lichen along with Bulemic's Picnic and Teddy Bears Picnic.

A superb route that has unfortunately succumbed to lichen.

Hard moves straight off the deck into enjoyable upper sequence

To the left of Jeremys Route.

Beware, the top has many loose blocks, I don't recommend climbing this until they have been cleared out.

To the right of labours of love. Finishes at the DBB at the top of the slab.

Continues up the face and aeret above the twenty twenty slab

Use the fixed rope on the left to gain the shoulder below Aafnraa and climb the razor flakes. Up the slabs left of Aafnraa crack into a right facing corner capped by a small roof. Make an unlikely smeary move up to the belay ring.

Begins off the shoulder beneath 'Aafnraa'. The stacked pillar which was the start of 'Aafnraa' has been pushed off the wall and the scar that was left has been bolted as the start of OM. The starting moves are the crux (20) and then you pull over onto the wall and up easier terrain at around grade 16.

Direct start (Dave Brash, 2018): 3 bolts then straight up crack with reasonable pro. Original route comes in from the left (2 bolts) to crack.

Start as for “Keeping on the Straight and Narrow” then veer right. Clip the bolt on the lip of the mini-roof then up the crack on ok trad gear.

Retro-bolted by Dave Brash in 2018, this has cleaned up nicely and is now graded 17 (though solid at that grade). Clip 2 bolts then through overlap (crux). Continue up crack on trad gear, before clipping a third bolt and running it out on easier ground to the anchor.