Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | |||
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Mar 6.º Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Upper Bluff | ||||||
18 Duro | The Sufferer and the Witness - con Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 37m, 3 | Medio | |||
Aidan's idea, quite pleased I wasn't leading it, dirty as and very very chossy to the left. Some was sent down to terrify the belayer, much remains up there. Got harness gear well stuck in a small manuka and came off, removed it. Crux is cleanish, very balancy and possibly harder than 18. P2 anchor is a pair of surprise carrots. One strand of access hand line is getting a bit core shot. Memorable in the wrong way. Distracted ourselves with more track fairy work down below.
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Lun 5.º Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Kykkeliky - con Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Stuffed myself in too far at the start. The kowhai is an arse and really needs a prune. Found even more gear through the "run out" cave section. Went and looked at the terrifying upper bluff rockfall.
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17 Duro | ★★ Iboga - con Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 30m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Had led before as a DHMK linkup. Bloody great jamming and bridging. Only let down by a sandy unprotected traverse in and loose topout. Started up GOTG to avoid the grot, long sling on the DHMK anchor and the bolt before it. We sent a few missiles down. Fixed up the core shot GOTG hand line then rapped down that.
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Dom 4.º Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 Duro | ★ Natural Selection | 26m | ★ Buena | |||
Rope soloed on a shunt and backup knots after an epic hot cleaning session. Still a bit gritty yet, needs some rain. Gonna be good to lead, might be 19.
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Jue 4.º En 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 ~17 | ★★ Blindmans Bluff - con Gareth | 28m | ★ Buena | |||
Thin crack only at start. Great jamming up top. Borrowed Justin's black totem, perfect size for shattered bit.
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18 | ★ Critters Corner - con Justin Wimmer | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Thanks to Aidan for the clean! The closest thing to quarry climbing you'll get here. The big midway flake is now starting to hinge outward at its midpoint, it needs to be removed soon.
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Mié 3.º En 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
19 Duro | ★★ The Sweet and the Savage - con Gareth | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Back to get it, a hell of a fight. Suckers you by starting easy then getting slowly harder until you're packed into a strenuous jam/undercling with very high feet out at the crux. The step around/down (maybe there is another option here) to the vertical crack needed a lot of willpower, then took an age to protect it while wrecked. The "trad belay" seems dodgy due to a hollow sounding block and limited options, kept going to anchors with solid rope drag, belayed with poor comms. Harder than Hecklers I reckon, need more opinions.
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Mar 2.º En 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Upper tier | ||||||
17 | ★★ Elephant's Revenge - con Gareth | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Towed a #5 up here but it's only really useful to protect the wide start until you get a good high hex. A few jamming/offwidth skills will go a long way. Stays fairly clean, and there's a bolted anchor.
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Mar 2.º En 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Middle tier | ||||||
15 Duro | Irrelephant - con Gareth | 8m | Medio | |||
Continuing the dirty 'ol trad research project. Harder than it looks. Didn't hate it.
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Mar 2.º En 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Lower tier | ||||||
17 Duro | ★ Pet Shop Shark Attack 1981 - con Gareth | 30m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
Rather good. Headed right after first bolt, some sketch getting back on line. Nose bolts a bit tempting. Surprisingly clean for a mixed route.
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Jue 28.º Dic 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 | ★ Benny’s Magical Koura Circus - con Jonno Rau, Gareth | 18m | ★ Buena | |||
Nice line, could use a brush.
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17 | ★★ Boat Ramp Crack - con Jonno Rau, Gareth | 45m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Out here for urgent track safety work. Great long route, let down by a dirty top third (take a brush). Lowered Jonno then brought G up, time flew by.
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Mié 27.º Dic 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Outboard Crack - con Jonno Rau, Gareth | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Snuck in before the sun started cooking the wall.
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Lun 23.º Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 Fácil | ★★ The Gecko Groove - con Gareth | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Attempting to get a couple more in before dark. Body said please stop.
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Lun 23.º Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bitten By A Cobra - con Gareth | 25m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A bit of dirt in the crack dogleg. Put a nut in the jam there, had to remove it and place a lower cam. Skipped all the top bolts, finished to Korimako anchor.
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17 | ★★ Manbearpig - con Gareth | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
The Angela move for the win. Don't stuff yourself in.
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Dom 22.º Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
16 | ★★ Super Natural - con Gareth | 45m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
I still bloody love this even after a visit to Arapiles. Still clean enough. Scrape the thin crack out a little for gear at the crux.
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Sáb 21.º Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
16 |
★ Dont Hurt my Kowhai P2
- con
Gareth
2
20
escalada de primero por
John Pitcairn
Bloody great value for 16. Only took nuts, a few cams wouldn't hurt. Excellent finish and a great way to avoid a shambles on GOTG. | 20m, 14 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Vie 20.º Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
17 Duro | ★★ Sunset Boulevard - con Gareth | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Getting a tad lichenous through the middle crack. Prob 18 in its current state.
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Lun 10.º Abr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Outboard Crack - con Gareth | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
1pm start, still a tad slippery in places after overnight rain. Couldn't get Jonno's nut out of Flake 7 on the way down.
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Sáb 8.º Abr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Kykkeliky - con Gareth | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Adventure climbing in failing light. Spiderwebs, bushes, lichen, runout, tree anchor, wouldn't have it any other way. Needed a wee swim after, brrr.
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Sáb 8.º Abr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Flake 7 - con Gareth, Jonno Rau | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Right face in middle could use a scrub. Jonno has left some booty at crux if anyone can get it out.
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17 Duro | ★★ Sunset Boulevard - con Gareth | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Harder than I remember through middle. Missed the good foot out right.
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Vie 7.º Abr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 ~17 | ★★ Blindmans Bluff - con Gareth | 28m | ★ Buena | |||
Thin crack only at start.
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Mar 3.º En 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 Fácil | ★★ The Gecko Groove - con Jonno Rau | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Back-cleaned a #1 and #3. Doubles at those sizes would make sense.
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Lun 2.º En 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
19 | ★★★ The Hecklers - con Jonno Rau | 45m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
This is so good. Took quite an effort after no climbing for 2 months. A clean of the right face would help find more rests.
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16 | ★★ Super Natural - con Jonno Rau | 45m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Always good. Still pretty clean, present me thanks past me.
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Dom 1.º En 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
17 | ★★ Manbearpig - con Jonno Rau | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Quite a change in character after Korimako...
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Lun 18.º Abr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ The Gecko Groove - con Gareth | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Late start, a bit cold and stiff, foot jamming not very welcome. Neither of us feeling very enthusiastic, back to camp for lunch and pack up.
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Dom 17.º Abr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Upper Bluff | ||||||
18 19 | ★★ Sex Panther - con Gareth, Greg, Amy, Arlo | 40m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Group Sex Panther. Started up late in the day, led as one pitch with some nervy moments avoiding the loose block at midway. Settled in at sunset for a lengthy belay session bringing up three seconds, watched the moon rise, then we all had a headlamp strobe disco on the ledge. Back to camp around 8.30pm. Thanks to Matt for the extra rope.
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Dom 17.º Abr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ The Slot Machine - con Gareth | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Possibly the least gear I have ever placed on this at 5 pieces, but I was bumping the single #3 cam. The block at the bottom is not loose, but it is fairly hollow. There is a good 0.3 cam as alternative first piece just below it.
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Vie 15.º Abr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Jungle Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Tropic Thunder - con Greg, Gareth | 18m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Quite a bit trickier than it looks, and really good. Some difficult off-balance jamming through the corner, then eases up top. A full double rack is overkill unless you want to stitch it up, but doubles of 0.4 thru 1 may be handy. The 2 bolts are just an annoyance.
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Sáb 5.º Feb 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Critters Corner - con Gareth | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Committing. Up the slab solo until the corner and #1 nut. A cam behind the crux flake is avoidable with a decent blue totem in a small flaring slot at its bottom right, ball nut in a thin crack a bit below and right (didn't have any), and a nut in the flake at half height, then a stance and gear above. Top of the flake definitely flexing a little. A #4 wouldn't hurt at the top (didn't have that either).
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Jue 3.º Feb 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
19 | ★★★ The Hecklers - con Gareth | 45m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Bloody great. Right face could really use a scrub. Gareth seconded clean, good effort. We could see and hear Katie and Joe up at the crux on the Odyssey.
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16 | ★★ Super Natural - con Gareth | 45m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Sun broke out halfway which prompted quite a speedup. Staying clean enough, though you'll always have to dig out the thin crack a little around the crux.
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14 | ★★ Sunset Ledge - con Gareth | 28m | ★ Buena | |||
Lugged the trad gear out, warmup. Crack pretty clean.
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Lun 31.º En 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Flake 7 - con Gareth | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Been a while. A lovely climb, great passive gear at the crux, though now not sure about that upgrade. Felt solid 18.
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16 | ★★ The Gecko Groove - con Gareth | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
No cams used. Tricams handy to protect the top but there is probably some nut-craft available if you want to be even slower...
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Dom 30.º En 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Kykkeliky - con Gareth | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
It's not 2 stars but it's definitely worth doing. There is sufficient gear in the "runout" cave section if you use your eyes and brain.
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Mar 4.º En 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Sunset Boulevard - con Gareth | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Final morning warmup. Bloody nice.
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Lun 3.º En 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ The Slot Machine - con Gareth | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Good lead from Gareth. Unparalleled VCS dialed in nicely now, the forefoot sensitivity coming on strong, toe-top rubber is good in a crack.
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18 | ★★ Outboard Crack - con Gareth | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Warmup, allegedly. Nearly came off at crux 2, wake up!
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Mié 29.º Dic 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Biggie Smalls - con Gareth | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Needs a bit of a sweep. Didn't take enough #3s (take two), managed to overcam a shonky 4. Top protects well with a #2 nut then 0.2 and 0.1 alien.
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Mié 29.º Dic 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
17 | ★★ Manbearpig - con Gareth | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Used the Angela high-step beta at the crux, which keeps you out of the trench and more mobile. Great fun, good gear, nothing bigger than #3 needed.
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Mar 28.º Dic 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
17 ~17 | ★★ Blindmans Bluff - con Gareth | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Thin crack only at the start for a bit of stiffening.
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16 Fácil | ★★ The Gecko Groove - con Gareth | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Obligatory post-arrival run in the evening.
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Dom 4.º Abr 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ The Gecko Groove - con Colin | 28m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Compulsory on every trip ... jammed as much as possible, slung the block, one #4, one #3.
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15 | The Crack Head Next Door - con Colin, Paul Baron | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Eating my own dog food, setting up for a mock-lead for Paul. The kōwhai needs attention again, it makes things harder, the resilient wee bugger.
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Sáb 3.º Abr 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Outboard Crack - con Grant Johnston, Colin | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Bloody good, and the upgrade is deserved. 2-3 cruxes and quite committing. Watched the sun set while belaying from the top.
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Sáb 3.º Abr 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Lower tier | ||||||
16 | Claim Jumper - con Paul Baron | 28m | ★ Buena | |||
Vegetated down low, lichenous higher, needs a better clean. If cleaner I think it would be quite good, has a nice physicality to it with some committing moves. Mind the chossy bits at top, but there is gear, and don't miss the anchor out left (the traverse to that is protectable by a #3).
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16 | Trunk Line - con Paul Baron | 35m | ★ Buena | |||
Much better after the clean at the bottom, but a lot of dirt will continue to rain down on it I think. Mind the somewhat chossy stuff up top, though there is good gear to be had. Squeeze between the kōwhai and the rock for a better belay experience, then extend yourself down from the tree anchor. You can rap off the shackles on the hand line and get down to the bottom of Taniwha Crackdown on a 60m rope, assuming you want to trust the hand line.
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Vie 2.º Abr 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
17 Duro | ★★ Sunset Boulevard - con Grant Johnston | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
About time ... good lead Grant. Seemed like I faffed around for ages at the start.
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16 | ★★ Blindmans Bluff - con Colin, Paul Baron | 28m | ★ Buena | |||
There's a good nut on the right before you pull over the top of the overhang, and a decent bridged stance to place it.
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Dom 24.º En 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
17 | ★★ Manbearpig - con Angela Hewlett | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Haha, cocked up the crux, but had a nice big nut above me. It's hard to go in for pro then get back out to make the move, made worse by forgetting my wide palm-off beta from last time. Angela did a much better job.
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Sáb 23.º En 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Blindmans Bluff - con Angela Hewlett, Colin | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Direct start using the thin crack and face only gives it fairly solid 17.
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Vie 22.º En 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ The Gecko Groove - con Angela Hewlett, Colin | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
One #4 is completely sufficient if you keep your eyes peeled for the many other options.
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Vie 22.º En 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bitten By A Cobra - con Angela Hewlett, Colin | 25m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Nearly spat me off at the crux. Had put a cam in the best fingerlock above the horizontal, things got very rattly.
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15 | ★ Lolly Scramble - con Angela Hewlett, Colin | 28m | ★ Buena | |||
It's getting cleaner at the bottom, must be seeing some traffic.
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Jue 31.º Dic 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 ~17 | ★★ Blindmans Bluff - con Grant Johnston | 28m | ★ Buena | |||
Thin crack start, good gear from Grant.
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Mar 29.º Dic 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
16 | ★ Shoot Your Gun - con Gareth | 50m | ★ Buena | |||
Gareth pruned on lead and it's now looking a lot less vegetated. Really quite cool 3D climbing, reminiscent of Kestrel at Arapiles, but less plentiful protection and some fragile rock in places. A really good exercise in gear/rope-drag management, and perhaps an acquired taste, but I still rate it as a good long thinking trad lead.
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Lun 28.º Dic 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Lower tier | ||||||
16 | Trunk Line - con Gareth | 35m | Basura | |||
Terrifying, stay the hell off. Filthy and difficult down low, objectively dangerous up top due to the huge detached death-flake. Much gardening and excavation for gear up the crack, veering left quite often just to climb on lichen rather than vegetation, then tried to stay off the horrifying huge flake as much as possible by bridging and climbing/protecting the right wall, with just one big hex in the flake gap. Topped out around the tree then anchored on the same tree as the hand line (not the shackles), which is quite old but needed for the sketchy walk-off. I will never climb this again, and recommend nobody else does either.
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Lun 28.º Dic 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
15 | ★ Lolly Scramble - con Gareth | 28m | ★ Buena | |||
Checking out G's gear, all good, with bonus tight tricam placement for me to swear at.
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Dom 27.º Dic 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Blindmans Bluff - con Gareth | 28m | ★ Buena | |||
Thin crack only to start.
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16 | ★★ The Gecko Groove - con Gareth | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Never gets boring
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Sáb 28.º Nov 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Yacht Club | ||||||
16 | And The Gods Made Love - con Gareth | 15m | Medio | |||
No, it is not "better than Gecko Groove". The gear isn't either.
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Sáb 28.º Nov 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
17 | ★★ Manbearpig - con Gareth | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A bit old school and good sweary fun. Facing the right way will help. So will being able to hand jam.
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15 | ★ Lolly Scramble - con Gareth | 28m | ★ Buena | |||
Back at the scene of the crime the next morning with 4 heavily taped fingertips. Avoided getting sidetracked into the top of Korimako this time, to discover the top of this is the best bit.
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Lun 26.º Oct 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
15 | Purple Haze - con Gareth | 18m | Ni te molestes | |||
Just walk on by. You'll be very paranoid about the rock by the time you get to the top. Treat everything with suspicion, and consider gear placements carefully, the rock is very crusty in places. Gareth chucked a few smaller bits off. Climbed in Gareth's slightly oversize pinks, but found mine at Secret Garden after this. Ran out of time, back to camp for lunch and pack-up.
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Dom 25.º Oct 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
15 | ★ Lolly Scramble - con Grant Johnston | 28m | ★ Buena | |||
Will be a good easy trad route when drier. Kept going into the obvious linkup with the hanging dihedral top of Korimako, which goes well on gear at about 17 and is excellent.
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19 | ★★ Bitten By A Cobra - con Grant Johnston | 25m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Quite good. Wants to throw you off balance up the crack, at some point you have to give in and swing onto the face. Not as jammy as it looks. Slung the small tree above the crack, kept going on gear to the highest anchor (beware of ledge fall).
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Sáb 24.º Oct 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
19 | ★★★ The Hecklers - con Gareth | 45m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Superb climbing, bomber jams, plenty of no-hands rests if you look for them. Started to rain just after Gareth began seconding. Lowered him, waited it out with raincoat, pulled a second rope up and rap-cleaned it by down-jammimg with one hand (RH face a bit wet and mossy). Sloped off back to camp through wet bush.
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16 | ★★ Super Natural - con Jonno | 45m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Needs a bit of a garden again, probably once a year.
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Vie 23.º Oct 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ The Slot Machine - con Jonno, Greer | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Straight up at the offwidthy bit.
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16 | ★★ The Gecko Groove - con Jonno, Greer | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
It's getting a bit traditional to do this on arrival. Never gets old.
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Dom 23.º Feb 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
19 | ★★ The Sweet and the Savage - con Gareth Hall | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Absorbing traverse with good gear. Took a sit before the crux to sort my head out, then committed to the high compressed undercling moves. Getting gear in around the corner had me going a bit after that. Top pitch is maybe a bit stiff for 16, in the same way High Hopes is. Ran both pitches together with acceptable drag, but resulted in poor communication.
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Sáb 22.º Feb 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
15 | ★ Naked And Afraid - con Gareth Hall | 18m | ★ Buena | |||
We thought it was a FA to add to Flogg's haul, then Rafael informed us he'd done it a few years ago, and it was clean then, so guess not. Cleaned it a bit. Decent gear, 12/13 ish most of the way, definitely go up the wide crack at top before traversing to get full value.
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17 | ★ Kykkeliky - con Gareth Hall | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Waited out the rain, shagged around, better climb something. A little gardening. Gareth could have placed more gear before the runout, cavers eh?
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Mar 28.º En 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
15 | Dirt Free | 12m | Medio | |||
Setting up a top rope on Peach Teats for Rosie. Grass, dirt, climbs OK but needs a trowel.
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Lun 27.º En 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
19 | ★★★ The Hecklers - con Jonno Rau | 45m | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||
Wow. I forgot how good this is. Lichen on the RH face doesn't detract much (but could use a clean), bomber and plentiful gear, really fun crux jam sequence above the roof. We were both absolutely fizzing at the top, got down and wanted to jump straight back on lead. Four stars in a 3 star system.
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16 | ★★ Super Natural - con Jonno Rau | 45m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
After 27 hours of cleaning, it's a whole different climb. Plenty of holds and good gear (take cams 0.3 to #2, a double set of nuts, plus RPs or small offsets to avoid runouts). I had 20 pieces in. Long, absorbing, and probably not for beginner trad leaders. Get on it.
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Dom 26.º En 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ The Slot Machine - con Gareth Hall | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Not Gareth's best lead effort but a fun jammy second.
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18 | ★★ Outboard Crack - con Gareth Hall | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Forgot how committed the top crux is. Niceness.
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Sáb 25.º En 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
16 | ★★ Super Natural | 45m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Cleaned furiously for 7 hours. It's done, will need to settle and have a dust in autumn. Too hot and shagged to lead it today.
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Vie 24.º En 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
16 | ★★ Super Natural | 45m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Up to anchor on rescuesender and roll'n'lock, for full top-down brush then cleaning the lower half on grigri. Cleaned for 5 hours.
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Jue 23.º En 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
16 | ★★ Super Natural | 45m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Fixing a rope for cleaning. Bottom 15m still very dirty and sketchy after previous cleaning sessions rained crap down on it. Excellent belay by Rosie.
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Mié 8.º En 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
16 | ★★ Super Natural | 45m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Cleaning session #3, 15 hours so far, still work to do. Lowered to the bottom and rope soloed on a grigri in walk off shoes to check the state of it. Still way too much lichen at the bottom, and need to clean further left at the crux. It's clean from well below the crux now and the log of death is gone (admire it at the bottom). Managed to just barely abseil off on the 40m cleaning rope. Shagged out, long walk back with heavy pack, enough.
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Dom 5.º En 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
14 | ★★ Sunset Ledge - con Gareth Hall | 28m | ★ Buena | |||
Access for cleaning.
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Sáb 4.º En 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ The Slot Machine - con Gareth Hall | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Gnarly inverted lead fall from Gareth at the offwidthy bit. Good gear though eh. Borderline 2 stars.
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Vie 3.º En 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Yacht Club | ||||||
16 | ★ Fuggin Jetskis - con Gareth Hall | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Fun. Some tricksy gear and a good #3 RP at the top.
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Lun 30.º Dic 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ The Slot Machine - con Gareth Hall | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Final route for the trip after a lie down. A hand/foot jam test piece. Still holding up OK, a bit short on #3 cams, had to bump one.
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Dom 29.º Dic 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Lower tier | ||||||
17 | ★ Taniwha Crackdown - con Gareth Hall | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
A bit of an evening adventure, starting as far right as possible. Traverse gear is reasonably sparse but you're not far off the ground.
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Dom 29.º Dic 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 Fácil | ★★ The Gecko Groove - con Gareth Hall | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Started up the thin crack of Blindman's Bluff only. Hand doesn't like fist jams (yet).
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17 | ★★ Sunset Boulevard - con Gareth Hall | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Underrated and freshly downgraded, get on it. Hand can still jam adequately. 0.5 C4 or red tricam is good at the top, above some smaller stuff.
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14 | Jabba the Hut - con Gareth Hall | 15m | Medio | |||
First climb after hand surgery, seems ok with a glove on. The climb is a lot cleaner than it once was.
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Dom 24.º Nov 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 ~17 | ★★ Blindmans Bluff - con Angela Hewlett | 28m | ★ Buena | |||
Testing the tiredness level. Good jams.
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Sáb 23.º Nov 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Biggie Smalls - con Tim Swain, Grant Johnston, Anna | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Bomber hand & fist jams and good gear in the first half then the top tricky dihedral is the crux. I'd forgotten small cams but managed to get a couple of small nuts in. Horrified to find I'd somehow clipped through my dangling safety, watched the nuts rotate as I contorted past them nervously. This is pretty good!
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Sáb 23.º Nov 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 | ★★ Rabid Woke Mob (Wish your sister was this dirty) - con Grant Johnston | 19m | ★ Buena | |||
The crack tends to collect dirt and leaf litter but currently still OK. The crux straight off the deck is fun, decent gear most of the way, top dihedral a little tricky, top out a bit dirty. Got off just as the sun started to hit around 1pm, well planned solar management.
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18 Duro | ★ Natural Selection - con Grant Johnston | 26m | ★ Buena | |||
A nervy flash lead from Grant, given the amount of lichen and crack dirt. We should have cleaned it on the way down off Human Intervention. I think this will be really good if clean, another one for the list.
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Vie 22.º Nov 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 Fácil | ★★ The Gecko Groove - con Angela Hewlett | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
On arrival after an overnight tramp and a tummy bug. How am I feeling? Not so good.
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Mié 24.º Abr 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 | ★ Benny’s Magical Koura Circus - con Grant Johnston | 18m | ★ Buena | |||
Short but good, good pro, and clean enough. Balancy mid section makes gear placement a bit delicate, got a tad run out. A fun fight.
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