Mostrando los 61 ascensiones.
Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | |||
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Mar 2.º En 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Middle tier | ||||||
15 Duro | Irrelephant - con Gareth | 8m | Medio | |||
Continuing the dirty 'ol trad research project. Harder than it looks. Didn't hate it.
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Mar 2.º En 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Lower tier | ||||||
17 Duro | ★ Pet Shop Shark Attack 1981 - con Gareth | 30m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
Rather good. Headed right after first bolt, some sketch getting back on line. Nose bolts a bit tempting. Surprisingly clean for a mixed route.
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Sáb 16.º Abr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
19 | ★★ Survival of the Fittest - con Greg, Gareth | 40m, 14 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Bloody good, highly recommended. Much cleaner than I was expecting too. An easy warmup cruise up most of Raw Umber lulls you into a false sense of security, then get your runout trousers on for the tricky arete crack (or take a couple of finger size cams). Then it's time for the main game, up the black-streaked corner. You can step across left to a good rest, but getting back right will be tricky if that's where you want to go. Spent a good long while figuring out how to keep moving up on the left and didn't want to leave the rest, but it's all there at the grade. Easier to the top, then best rap down is to the Raw Umber anchor.
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Vie 15.º Abr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Jungle Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Baloo - con Greg | 18m, 9 | Medio | |||
Pretty straightforward and not worth a star in my opinion.
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19 | ★★ Tropic Thunder - con Greg, Gareth | 18m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Quite a bit trickier than it looks, and really good. Some difficult off-balance jamming through the corner, then eases up top. A full double rack is overkill unless you want to stitch it up, but doubles of 0.4 thru 1 may be handy. The 2 bolts are just an annoyance.
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Dom 24.º En 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
15 | ★ Smurftastic - con Angela Hewlett | 20m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
This is pretty good at the grade, a fun move getting out of the overhang.
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Mié 30.º Dic 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Yacht Club | ||||||
19 | Hammerheads Bite | 15m, 6 | Medio | |||
May have used a feature or two from Fuggin’ Jet Skis, but if those aren't in it's a bit bloody contrived. Frankly these are squeeze routes anyway, just one would have been better, and this also arguably retrobolts the trad line. Meh.
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Lun 28.º Dic 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Lower tier | ||||||
16 | Trunk Line - con Gareth | 35m | Basura | |||
Terrifying, stay the hell off. Filthy and difficult down low, objectively dangerous up top due to the huge detached death-flake. Much gardening and excavation for gear up the crack, veering left quite often just to climb on lichen rather than vegetation, then tried to stay off the horrifying huge flake as much as possible by bridging and climbing/protecting the right wall, with just one big hex in the flake gap. Topped out around the tree then anchored on the same tree as the hand line (not the shackles), which is quite old but needed for the sketchy walk-off. I will never climb this again, and recommend nobody else does either.
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Lun 28.º Dic 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
16 | ★★ Minions Rock | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
Some funky moves for the grade. Probably possible to make it quite hard if you read it wrong.
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Sáb 12.º Dic 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
20 | ★★ Animal Farm - con Gareth, Wade | 20m, 9 | ★ Buena | |||
Some sharpish holds, need to keep moving.
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Sáb 28.º Nov 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Yacht Club | ||||||
16 | And The Gods Made Love - con Gareth | 15m | Medio | |||
No, it is not "better than Gecko Groove". The gear isn't either.
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Sáb 28.º Nov 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
17 | ★★ Manbearpig - con Gareth | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A bit old school and good sweary fun. Facing the right way will help. So will being able to hand jam.
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Vie 27.º Nov 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
16 | ★ Alice In Wonderland - con Gareth | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
Flows really nicely, original crux quite fun. Then dropped G four bolts and badly burnt my fingertips. Ack.
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Lun 26.º Oct 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
15 | Purple Haze - con Gareth | 18m | Ni te molestes | |||
Just walk on by. You'll be very paranoid about the rock by the time you get to the top. Treat everything with suspicion, and consider gear placements carefully, the rock is very crusty in places. Gareth chucked a few smaller bits off. Climbed in Gareth's slightly oversize pinks, but found mine at Secret Garden after this. Ran out of time, back to camp for lunch and pack-up.
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Dom 25.º Oct 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
20 | ★★ Korimako - con Grant Johnston | 25m, 11 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Claiming onsight for the slab (previously onsighted the top on gear out of Lolly Scramble), with no use of the LH crack. Balancy, mono stack fingers and tiny feet. I rather like it.
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15 | ★ Lolly Scramble - con Grant Johnston | 28m | ★ Buena | |||
Will be a good easy trad route when drier. Kept going into the obvious linkup with the hanging dihedral top of Korimako, which goes well on gear at about 17 and is excellent.
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19 | ★★ Bitten By A Cobra - con Grant Johnston | 25m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Quite good. Wants to throw you off balance up the crack, at some point you have to give in and swing onto the face. Not as jammy as it looks. Slung the small tree above the crack, kept going on gear to the highest anchor (beware of ledge fall).
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17 | ★★ The Mad Hatter - con Grant Johnston | 20m, 10 | ★ Buena | |||
Damp after rain and high humidity made it feel more like 18. Fun route with undercling traverse.
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Lun 24.º Feb 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
16 | Marshmellow - con Gareth Hall | 20m, 6 | Medio | |||
Grubby start. There's more gear than bolts, and that will make it more fun. Must return for a greenpoint.
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Sáb 22.º Feb 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
15 | ★ Naked And Afraid - con Gareth Hall | 18m | ★ Buena | |||
We thought it was a FA to add to Flogg's haul, then Rafael informed us he'd done it a few years ago, and it was clean then, so guess not. Cleaned it a bit. Decent gear, 12/13 ish most of the way, definitely go up the wide crack at top before traversing to get full value.
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Mié 22.º En 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
10 | My Little Pony - con Rosie | 6m | Ni te molestes | |||
Meh. Setting up short top rope for Rosie.
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Sáb 4.º En 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air) | 15m, 8 | ★ Buena | |||
Pleased to get this, spent a lot of time balanced on my toes working out the moves on the top slab. Similar in feel and difficulty to the top crux of Great Scott.
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Vie 3.º En 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Yacht Club | ||||||
16 | ★ Fuggin Jetskis - con Gareth Hall | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Fun. Some tricksy gear and a good #3 RP at the top.
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Sáb 23.º Nov 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Biggie Smalls - con Tim Swain, Grant Johnston, Anna | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Bomber hand & fist jams and good gear in the first half then the top tricky dihedral is the crux. I'd forgotten small cams but managed to get a couple of small nuts in. Horrified to find I'd somehow clipped through my dangling safety, watched the nuts rotate as I contorted past them nervously. This is pretty good!
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Sáb 23.º Nov 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 | ★★ Rabid Woke Mob (Wish your sister was this dirty) - con Grant Johnston | 19m | ★ Buena | |||
The crack tends to collect dirt and leaf litter but currently still OK. The crux straight off the deck is fun, decent gear most of the way, top dihedral a little tricky, top out a bit dirty. Got off just as the sun started to hit around 1pm, well planned solar management.
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18 | ★ Human Intervention - con Grant Johnston | 28m, 9 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Really nice route with a thoughtful crux around 2/3 height, easier up until then.
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Mié 24.º Abr 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 | ★ Benny’s Magical Koura Circus - con Grant Johnston | 18m | ★ Buena | |||
Short but good, good pro, and clean enough. Balancy mid section makes gear placement a bit delicate, got a tad run out. A fun fight.
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Mar 23.º Abr 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Lower tier | ||||||
16 | Claim Jumper - con Grant Johnston | 28m | ★ Buena | |||
It looks a bit shit but there is some decent climbing here, and it's a decent length. The bottom crack is a bit seepy after rain which makes for an underwhelming start, but things improve from there. Not the cleanest thing around but workable. Loose flake out right around halfway.
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Vie 22.º Feb 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
16 | Fuzzy Duck - con Gareth Hall | 18m, 9 | Medio | |||
It's definitely not 15 Martyn. Spent a fair bit of time with a nut tool and stick levering off the big loose death flake near the bottom.
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Dom 27.º En 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Upper tier | ||||||
17 | ★★ Elephant's Revenge | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Really enjoyed this, worth going up there for. The offwidth start is the crux, funky moves and can be tamed a bit by a high fist jam to pull up at the top. Plenty of gear is available up the top section offwidth layback and above. It's all pretty clean too. Big gear - take at least doubles of #4 cams, at least one #5.
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Dom 27.º En 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Lower tier | ||||||
17 16 | ★ Nogasang | 30m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
It's more like 17, and there is a fair bit of lichen regrowth, but it's a cool slabby lead with some nervy moments.
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Dom 6.º En 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
17 | Pr.Asc. The Crack Whore Next Door - con Tim Swain | 12m | Medio | |||
Climbed ground-up onsight, then cleaned somewhat, loose block in crack removed, then climbed again. Might get easier with more cleaning. Be wary of the possibly loose large block on the left at the top.
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Sáb 5.º En 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
16 | ★ Sugar Rush - con Tim Swain | 15m, 5 | Medio | |||
Fairly dull. You can jam the start.
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Dom 4.º Nov 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 | ★★ Road Tripping - con Angela Hewlett | 48m, 14 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Nice long slabby route, good moves, great exposure on the arete. Recommended.
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Sáb 3.º Nov 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Dirty Dancing - con Angela Hewlett | 15m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
Fun monkey dancing on good pockets out to the arete, crux getting onto the slab above.
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16 | Sweet 16s Not M16s - con Angela Hewlett | 20m, 9 | Ni te molestes | |||
Just what the world needs, more dull easy sport routes.
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Vie 2.º Nov 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
21 | ★ Hugs Not Drugs | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
First 22 onsight, maybe it's a little soft? Fun climbing, just enough features to keep it all together.
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20 | ★ Sundowning Syndrome - con Angela Hewlett | 20m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
Enjoyable, but bolting seems a tad runout. Not sure how it is supposed to finish, left to top bolt of Jug Addiction, or right into top of Hugs not Drugs? Straight up over the bulge would be harder than 20 for sure.
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17 | ★ Secret Squirrel - con Angela Hewlett | 20m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Flows very well. Not sure about the L/R variants, we started left then drifted right to the arete after first bolt, that still seemed 17 ish.
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15 | Dirt Free - con Angela Hewlett | 12m | Medio | |||
One move possibly at the grade, but is mostly easier.
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16 | ★ Jug Addiction - con Angela Hewlett | 20m, 8 | Medio | |||
Straightforward jug haul, the routes to the right and left are better.
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Lun 1.º Feb 2016 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Captain Caveman - con Angela Hewlett | 60m, 24 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Great finish for the trip. Would say mega-classic if not so heavily retrobolted. 1st pitch a bit average but cave and top pitch are terrific. Led under time pressure mostly on gear with trad anchor below the chimney, used 2 bolts on P1 (still damp down low), 1st 2 on P2 (maybe some pro available), one before 1st overlap on P3 (probably pro but keen to move on). Top pitch more like fun 17-18 most of the way, engage your brain at the top overhang, sling the obvious thread then find the jugs. Wow.
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Dom 31.º En 2016 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | Little Miss Naughty - con Angela Hewlett | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Quite interesting placements, OK climbing.
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17 | ★ Pimple - con Angela Hewlett | 15m | Medio | |||
Grant took the dinghy out, we went looking for Peach Teats for Angela, who started up this until it quickly became obviously more difficult than 13. Also still fairly dirty. A bit crimpy here and there, not a lot to recommend it. Feeling pretty tired after yesterday.
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Dom 31.º En 2016 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Lower tier | ||||||
17 | ★ Taniwha Crackdown - con Grant Johnston, Angela Hewlett | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
Fun and not as straightfoward as thought. One small cam and lots of nuts, gear needed plenty of extension to manage rope drag, belayed at Elephant Hunting chains (shade) but could have continued. Angela led the short 13 to the top then we soloed (me in liner socks only).
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Sáb 30.º En 2016 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Upper Bluff | ||||||
18 19 | ★★ Sex Panther - con Grant Johnston, Angela Hewlett | 40m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
One long pitch. Took a while at the bolted crux bit, but got a good rest at the first belay. Trad second pitch is better, well protected, great finger crack approach to the final moves. A bit of Honnolding on the top ledge belay, then around the corner (bolt safety followed by ledge, unprotected step onto a scary wobbly plate, then solo up) for a celebratory peanut slab on top of the Bluff just before sunset. Back to camp at last light, fantastic. Can rap off on a 60m to the higher start ledge.
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Sáb 30.º En 2016 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Sunset Boulevard - con Grant Johnston, Angela Hewlett | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Get on the damn sharp end. Really good. Fun start with a bit of thought, good jamming, another crux about halfway. Top is easier and there is adequate gear if you have small cams.
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Dom 8.º Feb 2015 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
19 | ★★★ The Hecklers - con shichang | 45m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Absolutely outstanding, a must-do. Had been saving the onsight attempt for a couple of visits now, stoked to get it. Not as hard as I expected, there are a number of no-hands rests and face holds apart from the crack. Taping up is a good idea to take full advantage of the many great fist and hand jams. Eats hexes!
Ran into Gerard Tarr on the way down, who had been up completing new pitches above, Hecklers multipitch, woo! |
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Sáb 7.º Feb 2015 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
14 |
★★ Thunder God (ThunderGod P2)
- con
shichang, Angela Hewlett
| 52m | ★ Buena | |||
Abseiled into pitch 2 from the Jugzilla anchors. It's OK, though the crack is likely to be quite dirty. Would be a good beginner lead.
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17 |
★★ Jugzilla (Jugzilla P1)
- con
shichang, Angela Hewlett
| 42m, 13 | ★ Buena | |||
A pleasant jug haul, join the queue. Just did the first pitch then abseiled into the second pitch of ThunderGod.
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Vie 6.º Feb 2015 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Critters Corner - con shichang | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Scary. Attempted as described in the guide, with no protection for the balancy moves up the slab until established in the corner 10m or so up. That was a bit tense, would probably clip the first 2 bolts on Great Scott next time. Thereafter through the corner the gear is smallish, stances quite spaced and not all of it is ideal. Got quite run out bridging and laybacking.
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16 | ★★ Blindmans Bluff - con Angela Hewlett, shichang | 28m | ★ Buena | |||
Quite good. Decent protection is tricky to manage at the crux due to the shattered uneven rock, but pulling through the crux is very juggy.
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Lun 27.º En 2014 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
13 | Yellow Submarine - con shichang, Angela Hewlett | 16m | Medio | |||
Used to bypass damp first pitch of Mellow Yellow. Had no trad gear but dismantled draws to sling tree and spikes, adequate
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Dom 26.º En 2014 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
16 | ★★ Super Natural - con Magnus Hammarsal | 45m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Really good slab moves reminiscent of Arapiles, quite small gear and a bit run out in places. Mossy at the top. 15 might be a slight sandbag. Would do again.
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17 | ★★ For King and Country - con Magnus Hammarsal | 30m | ★ Buena | |||
Place gear in layback? Sure ;-)
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Dom 1.º Abr 2012 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
16 | ★ Shoot Your Gun - con Colin Megson | 50m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Enjoyable 3D climbing. Got about 8-10m runout through the centre section - doubles or triples in medium cams would be useful. Take long slings to manage rope drag at top.
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Dom 1.º Abr 2012 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ The Gecko Groove - con Colin Megson | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Didn't have any big gear for the top and had to improvise with funky cammed small hexes and tricams in fissures in the crack. "Tree" belay is optimistic, it's a small wobbly bush - back it up with gear in the top of the crack or traverse to better anchors.
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Sáb 31.º Mar 2012 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
14 | ★★ Sunset Ledge - con Colin Megson | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Nice easy trad, decent gear, a good beginners' lead
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Dom 14.º Mar 2010 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
17 | ★★ Boat Ramp Crack - con Grant Johnston | 45m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Crux is the overhangs down low. Really good gear. Don't miss the halfway anchors on the way down!
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Dom 14.º Mar 2010 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
14 | Jabba the Hut - con Grant Johnston | 15m | Ni te molestes | |||
A grubby little route before breakfast. F'nar f'nar.
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Sáb 13.º Mar 2010 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Rohans Little Sister - con Grant Johnston | 12m, 4 | Medio |
Mostrando los 61 ascensiones.