Waikato Guide

Summary:

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Estacionalidad

Escalada deportiva, Búlder y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -37.773800, 175.592678

descripción

The Waikato (Maori for "water-flow") is a large basin housing the mighty Waikato river and the majority of the North Islands climbing development.

The most notable area is the 'Wharepapa Region'[11874529] with many crags in close proximity. The climbing in this region is on sharp pockets in ingnmbrite, so tape is a worthwhile investment.

Limestone is also present in the Waikato. 'The Airstrip' in 'Waitomo' is great for bouldering and 'Mangaokewa' just outside of Te Kuiti is steep sport climbing.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -37.064972, 175.622625

descripción

The Coromandel is a vacation retreat for most of Auckland during the summer. It is also home to many of the north islands longer sport routes.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -37.552752, 175.748633

Resumen

Fantastic crag with easy access from Hamilton, Tauranga and Auckland. Good rock a mix of single and multipitch routes (up to 80m). Spectacular views over the Waikato and Kaimai Ranges.

It's a bit of a walk up the hill, but it's well worth it. Long routes with stunning views out over the Waikato. A range of climbing from 16 to 26, single and multipitch, mostly sport with a few trad pitches.

For more information about Buck Rock, see the very well written PDF guide at Free Climb.

Wear a helmet. Most of the rock is solid, but there are some loose sections.

restricciones

Clean your shoes and any dirty gear at the washing station to help prevent Kauri dieback.

Acceso

From Te Aroha, drive south down Te Aroha/Gordon road, ~2 km out of town turn left onto Waiorongomai road, at the end of the road (1km) is the carpark for the Te Aroha Mountain Gold Mining Walking Tracks. Buck Rock is a 40 minute walk up the hill. There is a long drop toilet near the start of the tracks.

From the carpark, head up the main track, through the footwear cleaning station. Turn left at the next intersection. Follow signs for High Level Pack Track, then straight through the intersection with the Piako Country Tramway. Soon after, take a left onto the Cadman track - this is the uppermost loop. Cadman track is also called High Level Pack Track on some maps. As you ascend Cadman track, on your left there is a coloured tag and a belt. This signals the start of a short climber's track towards the main cliff, which climbs steeply to an old miners tunnel. Follow the track to the left of the tunnel to go to the main wall.

To reach the summit crag stay on the Cadman Track for another 200 meters longer then head up another obvious steep track marked with orange triangles. Follow the track for a couple of minutes and take the steep track up to summit crag at the intersection (straight/left for south-east wall).

Historia

In 2006 Kevin Barrett and Richard Knott visited Buck Rock and put up the 2 pitch line of “Demon of Bosch”. Kevin then returned with Stephen Barrett and added 3 more routes. Kevin continued to preach “to anyone that would listen” about how good this crag was and the enormous potential for new routes, but he failed to drum up any interest and when he moved down south development stopped.

In late 2009 Cliff Ellery returned to the crag and along with other local Hamilton climbers started to develop Buck Rock. As it turns out Kevin was right, the climbing is great, the rock quality is great, the outlook is fantastic and the potential for long single or multipitch climbs is enormous.

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -37.081173, 175.716841

Resumen

Large, steep pinnacles with long adventure routes in the second branch of the Tairua River, near Tairua Crag.

descripción

Located halfway up the valley on the left-hand side (opposite side of the valley from main Tairua crag) and less than an hour’s walk in, this crag consists of 4 large pinnacles. At this stage there is climbing on three of the four pinnacles. All the cliffs face north, so they are ideal for winter climbing but can be climbed year-round. Description and route descriptions modified from freeclimb.co.nz guide.

restricciones

The valley is home many mature and juvenile Kauri trees. In an effort to reduce our environmental footprint and prevent the spread of Kauri Dieback Disease while enjoying this crag it is essential that you arrive with clean gear. Ensure your walking and climbing boots are scrubbed clean of dirt and seeds before you leave home. Wash your rope and other equipment between crags if spending time in other Kauri forests. For more information visit www.kauridieback.co.nz”.

Make sure you sign in at the logbook at 373 Puketui Valley Road (see access description for Tairua Crag).

Acceso

After parking and signing in at 373 Puketui Valley Road, take the Tairua crag track across the farm (leave all gates as you found them), stay on the Tairua track for about 15-mins but do not cross the Tairua River at the dry island, instead continue along the track on the left side (true-right) of the river. After another 10 minutes you come to the Brunton Stream.

Cross the Brunton Stream and continue along the Tairua River for 100m then follow a track that branches off left away from the river. This track swings back towards Brunton Stream and goes along a terrace above the true left side of Brunton Stream for a while then it branches right up the hill away from Brunton Stream. Follow a rough track as it climbs diagonally up the hill away from the Tairua river and Brunton Stream. There are no markers on the first part of this track, but there are some as it gets closer to the crag.

After 30 mins you should arrive at base of the crag and the main Hihi Pinnacle. To get to the smaller of the pinnacles (Tahi Pinnacle), walk up the hill along the base of Hihi Pinnacle.

A good view of Hihi and Tahi pinnacles can be gained from climbing a large boulder 50m back for the Hihi Pinnacle cliff.

Summary:

Escalada clásica, Escalada deportiva y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -37.427982, 175.725800

Resumen

K Gorge is one of the North Islands most historic rock climbing areas, being developed mainly in the ‘70’s. Access is easy, there is a good variety of climbs of reasonable length and the swimming holes are superb. The jewel in the crown is China Wall with its long pitches on vertical rock.

Acceso

About 7 km from Paeroa, heading towards Waihi, you encounter a reserve on the right side of the road soon after passing under an old rail bridge. It is marked as "Karangahake Gorge" (tourist attraction) on Google Maps.

At the Waihi end of the carpark area is a foot bridge. Cross the river on the bridge. The Waitawheta river joins the Ohinemuri (the river that flows through the Karangahake Gorge) here. The main climbing area is up the Waitawheta but there is one crag up the Ohinemuri – Black Wall – with 4 routes.

Follow the Waitawheta via the Crown Tramway Track on the true left of the river. A couple minutes walk brings you in sight of the main walls and buttresses. Continue along the track until you cross the bridge and reach the signposted junction for the Windows Walk. Turn left and up two flights of stairs, to a rough trail on your right. This is the access track to the main crags.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -37.300106, 175.759297

Resumen

Bask in the magnificent views from the top of a route!

descripción

You will need up to 18 quickdraws to complete the routes. A couple of the routes require trad gear but most are sport.

Climbs are on the lower and upper tier

The bivvy cave is the biggest clean area, the twister section is even tighter for space.

restricciones

Owned by DOC and haven't had any problems so far, but don't give them a reason to restrict the area. Please take all rubbish and anything you take with you; only leave your footprints behind.

Acceso

Navigate to (-37.3027174, 175.7529359). Look for a small culvert (drain pipe) and road marker 917. The track can be a bit hard to find here, but it is across the river and marked with pink tape (refer to the photo).

Maratoto - Maratoto Access

Scramble down to the river and pick up the track: look for the stepping stones across the river. You will be able to follow the pink ribbon and reflector tags for about 30 min to the top. The track is very well marked, but gets steep and loose in places.

When you get to the top of the access track, left takes you to the Twister Section and right takes you to No Fly Zone.

Alojamiento

Campsites in the Coromandel, or accommodation in Thames/paeroa

Ética

Can stay up at the top of the mountain but only sleeps about 2 or 3 people max. It is quite exposed and small, so tents won't fit. Take all rubbish with you. Check local fire bans in the area before starting a fire.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -36.803938, 175.561777

restricciones

CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y Búlder

Lat / Long: -37.063067, 175.715259

Resumen

North Island's new destination adventure crag. Tramp 2 hours up a beautiful stream and valley to reach a massive rhyolite cliff that is part of a caldera volcano from 9 million years ago.

descripción

Quality mix of sport, trad and mixed routes. The face is steep and the rock is hard. Includes North Island's longest multi pitch at 170m.

restricciones

The track starts from a farm at 373 Puketui Valley Road. The owners are great and allow climbers to park on their property down by the river, just right of the first bridge. We have installed a sign and register book, and you do not need to contact the owners in advance as long as you fill in the book. So fill in the book!! The owners do want to know who is crossing the farm so please respect this.

Acceso

Tairua crag is located near the second branch of the Tairua river, at the intersection of Camp and Scots stream, within the southern sector of the Coromandel Forest Park.

The track starts in the corner of a field by the river. Roughly 5km long but it may take up to three hours on your first trip in. It is marked with white/grey trail markers and orange/blue/pink tape that are quite frequent the whole way. The last third has a few steep sections with fixed lines to help get up/down. The track is somewhat messy due to the January floods (2023) so stay switched on. There is GPS reception the whole way up. More info on the freeclimbNZ PDF that's free to download.

It is possible to follow the main river out from the campsite but is very dependant on river level if you want to stay dry. The largest waterfall (15m) in the second branch of the river has a bolt to rap down off. The second largest (comes before) supposedly has one too (possibly lost to the Jan 2023 floods) but can be walked around on the left hand side. Good swimming spots and views for a walk out on a hot day.

More info about taking the river out: https://www.kiwicanyons.org/tairua-river-2nd-branch-v2a2iii/

Alojamiento

There is a great campsite down by the river, about 10 minutes down the hill from the crag on the other side. Campsite has a small long drop toilet but bring something to dig a hole with incase it's full.

Historia

Tairua was originally spotted from the Pinnacles track, and received its first visit from Greg Kolbe and Robert Scott after a seven hour bush bash down steep canyons. Greg and Robert put up the first line, Are We Tramping Yet? ground up on trad, and then convinced Edwin Sheppard to tag along on the next mission. A track followed and so did many more epics on the wall in pursuit of new routes.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -37.185564, 175.886596

Acceso

(Main carpark-37.185153, 175.884172). Access mostly @low tide.

Summary:

Mayormente Búlder

Lat / Long: -37.091083, 175.639501

Resumen

An area of concentrated volcanic history, the Kauaeranga Valley is home to base-rock sandstone (greywacke), tufts, rhyolite raw and metamorphosed as well as significant quantities of quality andesite.

descripción

With its long history as an outdoor icon, natural beauty, amenable camping, closeness to population centres, nearness to other outdoor areas and crags - and vast quantities of rock - the Kauaeranga Valley offers budding experienced ascentionists a sporting area of epic proportions. The valley is a great place to stay and could serve as a base for exploring other crags scattered around the peninsular with most developed areas a half hour or less away.

Boulderers will love the ability to explore the area for new blocks. Take a pad, wire brush(es), swimming togs and sense of adventure. Choose the best rock for bouldering: https://www.facebook.com/100000185323954/videos/882249645826633/

There are a huge number of crags spread through the valley, from bullet-hard andesite through to rotten tuff (and everything in between) and from boulder-sized to several hundred metres or more. The best rock for climbing is the andesite and non-metamorphosed rhyolite. The valley experiences high rainfall - meaning anything significant will require extensive cleaning. Whereas features such as Table Mountain are andesite, The Pinnacles, for example, are rhyolite - this rhyolite is great. When reheated and chemically altered by subsequent activity, resulting in a discoloured rock, the rhyolite becomes friable, for example, the lookout abseiling rock. The andesite consists of two types - high-quality welded-columnar rock perfect for climbing and, on the whole, even more massively dense and extremely sound, non-columnar blocks, similarly perfect for climbing.

The side rivers and main river are prone to flooding during and after rainfall as their catchment areas are sizeable. Keep this in mind when exploring via river valley or camping out etc. Generally, you want to be out bouldering when the rivers are at low/normal flow. It can take a few days or more of good weather for the rivers to return to normal after heavy rainfall.

NOTE: Approaches vary in the valley, and this is a wilderness area. You should be familiar with bushcraft before exploring the valley. The topology is complex at times, and the scale may be initially confusing with hills rising to 700m asl. The valley is NOT SUITABLE for climbers or boulderers who have only climbed indoors or have minimal experience and are looking to take their skills outdoors. There is no substitute for experience, risk management and a good belay or spot. Take appropriate gear. Take plenty of pads.

restricciones

None. Please observe alpine club guidelines.

Acceso

The visitor centre and entrance to the park is 13 km (15–20 minutes) from Thames on Kauaeranga Valley Road.

From Thames travel along Banks Street (BP Service Station on the corner) which turns into Parawai Road. Continue as it passes through the settlement turning in Kauaeranga Valley Road.

Take it easy on the road up the valley - it is very narrow in places and there is much to see.

For information on local conditions: https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/coromandel/places/coromandel-forest-park/kauaeranga-valley/kauaeranga-visitor-centre/

Alojamiento

There are many camping spots up the valley (9 campgrounds) and Thames has a plethora of options such as hotels, motels and BnBs etc.

There are eight conservation camping sites:

• Shag Stream Campsite is adjacent to the Visitor Centre, beside the Kauaeranga River, and there is a good swimming hole nearby. 30 sites. Open from Labour Weekend (October) until 30 April.

• Hotoritori Campsite is 3 km north of the Visitor Centre and is across the road from the river. It is one of two campsites where dogs are permitted. 30 sites. Open all year.

• Whangaiterenga Campsite, near the junction of Whangaiterenga Stream and Kauaeranga River, is the largest with 50 sites. There are flush toilets at the campsite. Open all year.

• Booms Flat Campsite is 6 km north of the Visitor Centre, with 65 sites. Dogs are permitted here. Open from Labour Weekend (October) until 30 April.

• Catleys Campsite is on the river side of the road, 6.5 km north of the Visitor Centre. 30 sites. Open from Labour Weekend (October) until 30 April.

• Wainora Campsite is 7 km from the Visitor Centre, is in an attractive bush setting at the start of the Cookson Kauri Walk. 30 sites. Open from Labour Weekend (October) until 30 April.

• Totara Flat Campsite is between the road and river, 7.5 km from the Visitor Centre with 30 sites. Open all year.

• Trestle View is the last campsite and closest to the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail

There is one powered site:

Kahikatea powered site is located just next to the visitor centre. This site has space for 14 self-contained, electrically certified motorhomes. Four large sites are available for buses. Bookings for this site may be made online or through the Kauaeranga Visitor Centre (07 867 9080). Keys for the power need to be collected from the visitor centre. Keys may be collected after hours by prior arrangement.

There are backcountry camping areas near the Pinnacles Hut (Dancing Camp), at Billygoat Basin and Moss Creek in the Kauaeranga valley and also at Crosbies Hut. All sites except Moss Creek must be booked online at www.doc.govt.nz. Bookings through the Kauaeranga Visitor Centre incur a booking fee.

There are two back country huts:

Pinnacles Hut is a 2 hr 30 min – 3 hr walk from the Kauaeranga valley road end. It has 80 bunks, mattresses, toilets, a cold shower, solar lighting, gas cookers and gas barbeque. Bring your own cooking utensils. A hut warden is present at all times. Accommodation at the Pinnacles Hut is frequently booked out Saturday nights or during holiday periods, so forward planning is essential.

Crosbies Hut, situated on the Memorial Loop Track on the main range behind Thames, is a 4–6 hr tramp from any of the access points. The track is not as well formed as the track to the Pinnacles Hut. It has 10 bunks, mattresses and a coal fire. Coal is supplied in the winter months only. Bring your own lighting, cookers and fuel, utensils and cooking equipment.

Ética

Gradingwise, The Kauaeranga Valley follows standard ewbank and strict V grading based on ARG and Port Hills standards, roughly:

VB = absolute beginner level bouldering VE = <16 V0 = 16,17 V1 = 18,19,20 V2 = 21,22 V3 = 23,24 And then: V grade = Ewbank - 21.

Please follow NZAC guidelines. Minimise ecological impact at all times. Additionally, the Department of Conservation has given the permission to boulder on the andesite boulders of the valley IF:

there is no modification of the boulders
ecology is respected at all times
bio-assets are respected at all times
brushing is minimised to those holds which are used or could be used (ie touched) to ensure progression and the climbers safety
the climber is considered as part of the environment and preserved

Enquire at the DOC Valley Visitor Centre if at all unsure of the application of the NZAC guidelines.

Historia

The valley has always been a favourite of outdoors enthusiasts. Climbing was rediscovered by Phil Higgins in the early 2020's.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -38.836523, 175.894000

descripción

In the middle of the North Island is Lake Taupo, site of a once massive volcanic eruption.

'Whanganui Bay' is the predominant crag of the region, seeing development from the 1980's. More recently however, 'Kawakawa Bay' provides equally fantastic climbing.

Climbs tend to be on cliff faces coming right out of the lake with heights of upto 100m. The general rock type is welded ignimbrite, providing great friction and great features for use as holds. There are both crack and face climbs, tending for both sport and trad climbers alike.

Summary:

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -38.883058, 175.968848

restricciones

Cliffs on side of SH1. Very busy highway beware.

Acceso

A Kilometer south of Te Toki Point, on the Northern Side of Bulli Point.

Summary:

Todo Escalada en roca

Summary:

Todo Escalada en roca

Summary:

Todo Escalada en roca

restricciones

DO NOT CLIMB HERE. The crag is on Iwi land and permission has not been granted.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -38.667692, 175.869535

Resumen

Lakeside Rhyolite trad and sport climbing, single and multipitch.

descripción

Get the free PDF guide from https://www.opuslocus.com/downloads/kawakawa-bay-guide.pdf

Wear helmets due to rock fall potential. There is plenty of loose rock around and above many routes.

restricciones

NO NEW BOLTED ROUTES BEYOND ELEPHANT BUTTRESS. No fires at any time of year. Carry all rubbish out with you. Dogs are permitted but must be kept under control at all times, do not allow your dog to roam.

Acceso

2 hour walk on the easy graded mountain bike track from the western end of Kinloch beach, or charter a 20-40 minute boat ride: http://www.fishher.co.nz/

Alojamiento

Campsites and a public shelter close to the crag. No bookings required. Do not make new clearings or tracks through bush between sites.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Búlder y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -38.685378, 175.910648

descripción

The Kinloch Crags consists of 4 main spots. K1,K2,K3 and kinloch bouldering. K1 and Kinloch's bouldering is the closest, then K2 which is about 45-1hour walk away. K3 is only accessible by boat. Along the way to K3, there are lots of smaller crags.

Summary:

Escalada en roca y Escalada artificial

Summary:

Todo Escalada en roca

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -38.927849, 175.873526

Summary:

Todo Escalada en roca

Summary:

Todo Escalada en roca

Summary:

Todo Escalada en roca

Summary:

Escalada clásica, Búlder y Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -38.879415, 175.987643

descripción

Oruanui Formation Ignimbrite.

Acceso

Driving North along highway 1 drive past Bulli Point and stop at the small parking area with a stream between Ohaumahanga Point and Te Toki Point. Cross the road and 100m upstream the cliff can be found in bush.

Historia

First explored in October 1982 by Graeme Dingle. Most routes done in March/April 1983 by Graeme Dingle and Ray Button.

Summary:

Todo Escalada en roca

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -38.588852, 175.775574

Ética

Need to contact p.evans@stpauls.school.nz before 2-3 weeks coming as it is an operating school with many people living onsite

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -38.785527, 175.725908

Resumen

The 2023 season is now CLOSED. Please respect the closure. Thanks to Ngāti Te Maunga and the Whanganui Bay Māori Reservation Trust for allowing climber access.

descripción

Generally north-facing and sheltered climbing on compact ignimbrite.

restricciones

Access is at the sole discretion of the local hapū. Poor behaviour will result in the Bay being closed again. See the Bay website for all access conditions. https://whanganuibay.acat.org.nz

Acceso

The road down to the Bay is in poor condition and is only suitable for 4WD vehicles with good clearance. If in doubt, park at the top carpark and walk or catch a lift down.

Alojamiento

Camping is at the north end of the beach, with a toilet and fire-pit. Bring your own firewood and drinking water. See the Bay website for camping requirements. https://whanganuibay.acat.org.nz

descripción

http://www.taupodc.govt.nz/our-services/Leisure-and-Recreation/rock-climbing-wall/Pages/rock-climbing-wall.aspx

A.C. Baths Avenue, Taupo, 3330

Resumen

Turangi Climbing Gym is a family owned and operated indoor climbing wall, run by Josh and Synøve Scottwell. The gym offers top rope, lead/sports climbs and bouldering.

descripción

A purpose built wall offering climbing suitable for tourists, beginners, seasoned climbers, and most importantly the local community.

Historia

Previously run by the Cullens, the new owners (Josh And Synøve) took over the wall in October 2019. Since then they have worked on revitalizing the gym, bringing in a mixture of new setters and holds.

Summary:

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -38.419368, 175.860397

Summary:

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -38.493473, 175.194280

Resumen

An ignimbrite crag visible from State Highway 4 south of Te Kuiti.

descripción

Mapara Stream is a prominent ignimbrite crag visible from State Highway 4 south of Te Kuiti, a short distance south of the turn-off from State Highway 3. Access is from the Mapara Stream North Road.

Acceso

The cliff can be seen on the right from the Mapara Stream North Road, on the other side of the stream.

Historia

The crag was first visited by Auckland climbers in May 1976 and the first two routes climbed by Robbie McBirney and others later that year.

Summary:

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -38.411793, 176.082863

Summary:

Escalada clásica, Escalada deportiva y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -38.494768, 176.393690

Resumen

Quiet area close to Taupo.

descripción

Gorge with single pitch climbs.

restricciones

Cannot drive to crag down dirt road as council has closed it due to suspicious activity. 10min walk in now.

Crag has been taken over by huge rose bushes. Very cool Bouldery climbs but track needs some help. Be prepared for blackberry! Take long pants and a hedge trimmer!

December 2019: Cleaned the track into the crag of black berry and two tracks to routes - The Flying Frenchman and Cyclopean Nightmare. Not many climbs accessible at this stage due to the black berry but with some effort and shears is easy to clear.
February 2020: Could only access climbs between Middle Age Mix and Cyclopean Nightmare at the Christmas Crag.
September 2020: Retrimmed track to Three Boulders, Flying Frenchman, Cyclopean Nightmare. Most climbs between Middle Age Mix and Cyclopean Nightmare at the Christmas Crag wouldn't be much more work. Couldn't find track to other sectors.

Acceso

Park before the bridge, walk over the bridge and in via the second gate on your left. walk 5 mins and you'll see the crag.

Summary:

Todo Escalada clásica

Summary:

Escalada clásica, Escalada deportiva y Escalada artificial

Summary:

Escalada deportiva y Escalada clásica

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Summary:

Búlder, Escalada deportiva y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -38.327861, 175.009587

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Búlder y Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -38.271556, 175.005402

Resumen

North Island gem.

descripción

Limestone sport climbing and bouldering. Similar in style to Paines Ford.

restricciones

MUST contact the landowners before entering the farm to obtain permission. Ring Ben and Bex Stubbs on 07 8787426. The property is a commercial farm and as such has hazards associated with such a property. Access is at own risk.

Acceso

Navigate to (-37.6736328,176.0565045) and park next to the wooden gate.

Frog Pond - frog_pond_parking.jpg

Go through the gate (leave the gate as you found it), follow the track over a wooden bridge and up towards a rusty metal gate. Put your $ donation into the box beside the gate before going through the gate. Follow the track for a few minutes (350 meters) until you see a distinctive and lonely tree in the gully to your left.

Disabled

Go downhill towards the lonely tree and up the other side of the gully. Follow the grass as high as you can, then follow a vague track up through the bush until you get to the rocks and a wooden fence. Go over the fence and down the other side. As you come down the hill, you will see Tangarahu Rock to your left, then Main Cliff will be further left near the pond.

Ética

Remember you are on private land. So no dogs, camping or disturbing farm animals. Make sure you take all your rubbish with you and leave the place as you found it. Leave all gates as you found them.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -38.360312, 175.196335

descripción

Limestone climbing just south of Te Kuiti. There is sheltered climbing for those wet days, and more exposed climbs for enjoying the sun.

Helmets are strongly advised, due to the likely nature of rock fall.

restricciones

CLOSED until further notice. DOC will be in discussion with Iwi.

Acceso

Cross the bridge at the car park. Follow the track right and then double back up the hill. Turn right at the cairn and follow the steep track to the 'Colosseum' approx 25mins.

Alojamiento

There is free camping in the car park. There are bathrooms and fire pits available.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -38.415750, 174.881482

Summary:

Todo Escalada en roca

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -38.366262, 175.047170

Resumen

CLOSED. Layered limestone in a bush and stream setting.

descripción

CLOSED. The crag was originally developed by Paul Hunt, and is on land owned by a nearby farm and adventure tourism operator.

restricciones

Pakeho crag is now CLOSED indefinitely. Please do not contact the owners requesting access.

See https://www.acat.org.nz/access/pakeho-crag-is-closed for further information.

Summary:

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -38.259624, 174.822352

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -38.254197, 175.020923

Resumen

A great addition to The Airstrip, very easy to navigate and a more open concept.

descripción

A lot of climbing from roofs to tall slabs.

restricciones

Private land. Follow instructions as per The Airstrip.

Acceso

A ten minute walk past the Spartan Roof sector from The Airstrip.

Historia

Saw some development around 2008.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -38.262615, 175.020926

Resumen

Great limestone bouldering 2.5 hours south of Auckland.

descripción

Fantastic limestone bouldering set amongst the karst landscape that is Waitomo. There is a bountiful number of easy bouldering for those that have just started climbing, or for those feeling rusty. There is a great diversity of climbing styles from roof problems, to technical slabs, to scary high balls.

If its wet, climb in 'Grot View Cave'[190692531] or if you have ropes with you, head to 'The Colesseum'[80406585] in 'Mangaokewa'[80404782].

restricciones

MUST contact the landowners before entering the farm to obtain permission. Ring Ben and Bex Stubbs on 07 8787426. The property is a commercial farm and as such has hazards associated with such a property. Access is at own risk.

A $5 donation is suggested for bouldering trips.

Acceso

Catching the turn-off can be difficult. Drive straight through Waitomo and continue on windy roads for 10-15mins from the large touristy centre. The turn-off is on the right, up a farm driveway. You'll know you have the correct one, as it has a small, clearly visible NZAC signpost at the start of the driveway.

Ética

No Chipping. Chalk is OK.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Búlder y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -38.120502, 175.577491

descripción

Pocketed ignimbrite with four main crags: Castle Rock, Froggatt Edge, Sheridan Hills and Waipapa Dam. All have easy access, great climbing and there is something for everyone from grades 10 to 31.

Alojamiento

Bryce’s Rockclimbing for backpacker accommodation, gear sales and rentals. Camping is also available in the grounds of Wharepapa South school for a small fee (payable at Bryce's).

Summary:

Escalada en roca, Escalada deportiva y Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -38.184440, 175.506565

descripción

Four different walls here all on sharp, pocketed ignimbrite. Mostly shorter climbs but enjoyable for a quiet day away from the main crags.

restricciones

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE. The CNI Section of NZAC is negotiating the future of the crag with respect to recent changes in liability law.

Summary:

Escalada en roca, Escalada clásica y Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -38.169134, 175.530552

restricciones

CLOSED

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -38.131618, 175.522301

descripción

Large area of pocketed ignimbrite cliffs with something for everyone. Heights range from 6m to 25 m and grades from 12 to 26. There are 10 sectors, the most popular being Upper Tier, Lower Tier and Bumbly's Buttress.

restricciones

The crag facilities take time and money to maintain. If you climb, you pay, no exceptions.

Recreational climbers do not need to call ahead before visiting but must pay the daily access fee. Payment is cash-only at the crag, or by bank transfer to account 03 1399 0073627 00 - reference: your name and "day pass".

Guided or commercial groups (including school groups) must book in advance by emailing wharepaparock@gmail.com.

The crag is on private farmland - please obey a few simple rules:

Ensure all gates are left as they were found and are properly latched. If you open a gate, you close it.
Do not climb over fences, this can slacken the wires.
Climb safely and responsibly.
Strictly no dogs.

Acceso

From Bryce's keep heading west on Owairaka Valley Rd until the signposted main entrance of Castle Rock. Turn right into the gated farm track and follow that down the hill, through the holding yard, and up the hill on the other side, right around to the carpark and flush toilet on the west side of the crag. Please leave gates open or closed as you find them - there may be up to 4 gates to open and close including the road gate.

Summary:

Búlder, Escalada deportiva y Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -38.156443, 175.523373

Resumen

Pocketed climbing on ignimbrite rock. Huge range of grades from 10-31/ VE-V11.

restricciones

Please sign in, there is a logbook at the roadside gate. No dogs, no camping or overnighting, no fires. This is a working farm, leave all gates open or closed as you found them.

Acceso

Park in the obvious carpark with the signage. Nearest routes are 1 minute walk from there.

Ética

Please do not top rope directly through anchor bolts. Please rappel after cleaning anchors, rather than lowering through the bolts (unless the anchor bolts have additional lower-off rings). This is to ensure longevity of the anchor bolts.

Historia

Discovered for climbing and initial developments in 1990 by Margot Harkness.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Escalada en roca y Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -38.143722, 175.507680

restricciones

CLOSED

Summary:

Escalada en roca, Escalada deportiva y Escalada clásica

restricciones

CLOSED

Summary:

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -38.081694, 175.639706

Acceso

On the true right below the dam.

Summary:

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -37.916182, 175.696953

Resumen

Trad ignimbrite cracks. The rock is soft, likely dirty, and there are no bolts or bolted anchors.

restricciones

The landowner's permission must be obtained before entering the property to climb. Please respect any restrictions the landowner imposes. Do not post the owner's phone number here without permission.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -38.125570, 175.538659

descripción

Another crag within the Wharepapa region. This one covers an extensive area with ignimbrite cliffs and spires which are far from the madding crowds.

restricciones

Permission must be obtained from the Singh family at the second house off the road.

Acceso

On the Longsight Station at the end of Townsend Rd.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -38.188507, 175.535890

Resumen

Once permission is obtained, drive past Waipari (Froggatt Edge on Whataruri road) we are rapid number 544 and Dairy # 74667, on the right hand side of the road. Stop at the house for instructions.

descripción

How far you walk Depends on the track conditions and your vehicle. At the most it is a 20 minute walk to the nearest cliff. In the dry summer with a AWD car I let you drive within 5 minutes of the crags. An easy bush track follows the Waipari Stream to get between cliffs. There is a long drop toilet near the picnic / swimming hole area. Normally I like to show people the way if it is your first time.

restricciones

You will need to be a bit organised to climb at Shawthing Rock… Ring/text at least a day before to book in (not after 9pm please), it’s a working farm; there may be hazards to tell you about.

• Stephen Shaw 021-742-988

• stephen74667@gmail.com

• Access is a privilege. Not a right.

• Probably closed in the wet winter months.

• No dogs, no shooting. The normal stuff!

• Follow the leave no trace guide- so take all your rubbish (Including biodegradable) out with you.

• Only one group per day.

Alojamiento

Bryce's rock shop has cabins, and camping is available next to Lake Arapuni, at Bulmers Landing and Arohena Campground.

Historia

The first sport area to be developed was Beehive Cliff, with Bryce's 'Leaning Corner' being the first bolted route. The first route was Tim's "Thinking about it' trad climb on Quail rock.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -38.143582, 175.491969

Resumen

IMPORTANT - SEE UPDATED ACCESS REQUIREMENTS (September 2020)

descripción

Tall pocketed ignimbrite cliffs here ranging from 20m to 35m. Flying Cow and the Chunderossa buttresses are the most popular sectors with fantastic climbing ranging in grade from 15 to 26. Some of the bolting seems close but the rock can be quite soft. Most of the other cliffs here are equipped with old naked bolts.

restricciones

For Biosecurity reasons, follow this new procedure for permission to climb at Sheridan. No exceptions, don't blow it for everyone.

Entry is only permitted to Rock Climbing groups, no others.

You must have clean footwear that hasn't been worn anywhere where there have been cattle within the last 24 hours. This includes other local crags.

Abide by all NZ Alpine Club rules (see the sign left of the Seafund Road gate).

EACH TIME you enter the property, send a text message to 027 527 1744 with:

1 - Your full name and place of residence

2 - The number of people in your party

3 - Another form of contact, ie email, home address, etc.

IF NO TEXT IS RECEIVED YOU WILL BE ASKED TO LEAVE.

Sending the text message acknowledges you and your party will abide by all the above rules. There is no longer a logbook to sign. A QR code is available but this DOES NOT replace the requirement to send a txt as above.

Do not block the gate, park well back along the road! Leave gates open or closed as you found them. No dogs. This is private farm land so must be respected.

Any queries, phone 027 527 1744.

Acceso

OBTAIN PERMISSION FIRST (see access issues). Park on Seafund Road near gate, but not in front of it. Walk straight across the paddock towards the obvious pillar and down thru another gate to the crag. 7 minutes walk.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada en roca

restricciones

CLOSED

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -38.292046, 175.686815

Resumen

Awesome technical climbing on superb rock. A mix of sport and trad lines.

descripción

Slab, roofs, bulges, cracks or face climbing, Waipapa has it all.

Acceso

Drive towards Mangakino from Wharepapa South for about 20 minutes. Drive across the dam and park in the carpark.

Ética

The majority of routes will need to be cleaned at the beginning of the season or after big weather events, due to the forests above the cliffs. Wire brushes will work best, but take care as you can damage the ignimbrite through excessive cleaning.

descripción

https://harvestrock.weebly.com/

5 Tuhoro St., Otorohanga,

descripción

https://www.extremeedgehamilton.co.nz/

90 Greenwood St; Frankton, Hamilton, 3204

Summary:

Escalada deportiva y Búlder

Lat / Long: -37.841545, 174.902700

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -37.946110, 174.938243

Resumen

Sports (10 routes) / trad climbing (4 routes) and bouldering (~100 routes)on featured limestone outcrops. Sports and trad routes vary between 10 and 16 metres in height

restricciones

This climbing area is on private land and access is by the grace of the landowner in partnership with ACAT and Raglan rock advenutre Co. To ensure this privilege continues, please be responsible and respect all access rules and restrictions. Access is only permitted to climbing areas, not other parts of the farm. Leave gates as you find them and do not block any gates. Keep the climbing and parking area clean and tidy. If you see any rubbish please take it with you. During lambing season (1 July to 1 October) public access to Sky Castle is CLOSED. Public access may also be restricted outside of this period for farming activities at the landowner's discretion. NO: Fires / Dogs / Camping / Littering If you have any issues or concerns, please contact ACAT: admin@acat.org.nz Comercial activities are not permitted at this crag.

Acceso

Go through Makomako road to the car park. Then head north west to the peak of the hill, follow the ridge until you see the crag. It's about a 10 minute slog up the hill

Alojamiento

Raglan, have a morning surf then head up for a climb.

The farmer who owns the land is also offering affordable accommodation, especially for groups. Contact him if you would like to know more.

Ética

Please contact RaglanRock if you want to do any route development

Historia

SkyCastle was discovered by Gareth Jones owner of RaglanRock who was out Bow hunting one day and spied some limestone in the distance. Perhaps the limestone outcrops reminded him of some ruined castles of his homeland. Gareth invited a few renouned Kiwi climbers to check it over the past few years and bolted around 10 routes along with some others from RaglanRock. It was opened to the public in November 2022 after some ACAT volunteers and Gareth raised some money to put in a carpark and a few other improvements.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -37.796858, 174.857620

Table of contents

1. Waikato 3,477 routes in Region

1.1. Coromandel Peninsula 328 routes in Region

1.1.1. Buck Rock 34 routes in Crag

1.1.2. Hikuai Pinnacles 8 routes in Area

1.1.3. Karangahake Gorge 76 routes in Crag

Acceso: Waitawheta track access closed due to rock fall

1.1.4. Maratoto 58 routes in Crag

1.1.5. Motutere 34 routes in Crag

1.1.6. Tairua Crag 23 routes in Crag

1.1.7. Te Ananui 66 routes in Crag

1.1.8. Kauaeranga Valley 29 routes in Crag

1.2. Lake Taupō 859 routes in Region

1.2.1. Bulli Point 3 routes in Crag

1.2.2. Crag 2/25 8 routes in Area

1.2.3. Crag Serenity 10 routes in Crag

1.2.4. Karangahape Cliffs 3 routes in Crag

1.2.5. Kawakawa Bay 314 routes in Crag

1.2.6. Kinloch 113 routes in Crag

1.2.7. Kuratau 4 routes in Crag

1.2.8. Middle Earth 6 routes in Crag

1.2.9. Motuoapa 113 routes in Crag

1.2.10. Sand Castle 1 route in Crag

1.2.11. Sinton's Buttress 7 routes in Crag

1.2.12. Te Putu 5 routes in Crag

1.2.13. Te Toki Point 26 routes in Crag

1.2.14. The Thumb 2 routes in Crag

1.2.15. Tihoi 46 routes in Crag

1.2.16. Whanganui Bay 198 routes in Crag

1.2.17. The Edge Rock Wall - Taupo Events Centre 0 routes in Gym

1.2.18. Turangi Climbing Gym 0 routes in Gym

1.3. Lake Whakamaru 2 routes in Crag

1.4. Mapara Stream 2 routes in Crag

1.5. Ohakuri Dam 2 routes in Crag

1.6. Reporoa Gorge 50 routes in Crag

1.6.1. Left Hand End 1 route in Cliff

1.6.2. Christmas Crag 21 routes in Cliff

1.6.3. Right Hand End 17 routes in Cliff

1.6.4. Boulder 11 routes in Cliff

1.7. Waitomo District 829 routes in Region

1.7.1. Frog Pond 74 routes in Crag

Roca: Deteriorating rock quality

1.7.2. Mangaokewa 122 routes in Crag

1.7.3. Mangaotaki 23 routes in Crag

1.7.4. Mangaotaki Road 3 routes in Crag

1.7.5. Pakeho 68 routes in Crag

Acceso: Crag Closure

1.7.6. Te Anga 1 route in Crag

1.7.7. The Pond 77 routes in Area

1.7.8. The Airstrip 461 routes in Crag

1.8. Wharepapa South 1,390 routes in Region

1.8.1. Bayley Road 77 routes in Crag

1.8.2. Bosch 23 routes in Crag

1.8.3. Wharepapa Rock 210 routes in Crag