Vías en Waikato para grado seleccionado

Shares the start with Climba Sutra. Straight up the face to the left side of the roof. You can clip the crux bolt from good sidepulls/underclings, then tackle the crux, moving right onto the small yellow face, then up on large pockets. After a few meters, the climbing eases off. Keep going up and right to the anchor.

From the belay of Buckle, move left and though the roof on pockets. If climbing from the ground, consider extending some draws to reduce rope drag.

Start in the middle of the column, climb to the roof on easy moves then punch through on small edges. Route stays slightly overhanging all the way to the top on good holds then goes over another bulge to meet the anchors.

Start at the right hand end of the column. Climb the first roof on good holds then punch through the overhanging bulge on small holds before getting a ledge. Climb the corner on slopey holds before veering left at the top for the anchors.

Start up the ramp (clip the first bolt of "Pneumothorax" then climb through the over hanging face, easy climbing before and after the crux. Shares anchors with "The Odyssey"

Climb the arete to the right of "Climb This You Bastard" some pretty funky moves with 2 distinct cruxes. Still needs anchors.

Climb the line left of equanimity through 3 distinct horns. Climbing to the roof is around 22/23 then a bouldery finish through the final horn. This one is long and through steep sections so extend draws that are after the steep sections to eliminate rope drag or prepare for a bicep workout.

Climb "Taste The Rainbow" and keep going through a more challenging sequence of moves after the anchors at half height. Start right and traverse left into the first bolt, best to pre clip 1st and 2nd. A 70m rope should get you to the ground with rope stretch or have your belayer step right onto the ledges under "following the sun"

Straight up from the anchors at the top of Are We Tramping Yet? to an anchor in the middle of Space Ape.

This is the Tairua classic!

Pitch 1 (19) – Are we Tramping

Pitch 2 (22) 20m Climb easy honeycombed rock to the 2nd bolt,then power through the crux which consists of a series of good underclings with long reaches to small slopey edges.

Pitch 3 (18) 20m Delightful stemming up the steep corner to the large chickenhead visible from below. Can be done as one long pitch or two short pitches at 22/18.

Pitch 4 (26)15m. Up thru scoop and then consistently hard moves to the anchor.

Pitch 5 (21) 30m . Nice moves on good rock to bushy ledge.

Pitch 6 (16) 30m Up slabby ground to rap station just below bushline.

Pitch 1 to 3 Greg Kolbe; Edwin Sheppard Nov 2017

Pitch 4 to 6 Edwin Sheppard, Max Nov 2020

The hard thin crack and face to the right of Rohan’s Arete, sharing its anchor.

Climb on the overhang face for 4 staples and then join the top bolt of the route to the right.

Easy climbing for the first few bolts leads to a triple crux sequence (V3 / V4 / V2), then a welcome hands free rest before sustained 23 climbing takes you to another bouldery crux (trending left) that guards the anchor. Benchmark 26. Tick this and you're ready for the 27's.

A great climb to push yourself with safe falls and plenty of shade in the summer / sun in the winter.

Start left hand side pull as for stand start, right hand low crack, crank up to high crack and finish as per stand start.

Pull up onto the blunt arete in the middle of the boulder using a good side pull. Rock up and slap up to the sloper on the lip, then mantle.

Start with 3 points on the obvious rail feature low on the overhung face, then head up and right via a series of average edges, taking care to avoid dabbing on the rock behind.

Climb the chapel of ghouls then at the roof head left to a pumpy and burly finish up to the anchors of dans project. Watch out for rope drag and extend the draws in the roof and just below. Adds difficulty and brilliant roof moves onto the original line.

Link Chapel into Maximus

Far right end of the main crag. Starts with some funky moves pressing through the lip, head up through some tricky moves then head left and straight up the face. After the bulge easy slab to the anchors of C.O.G. Good idea to stick clip the second bolt and extend the fourth for added protection.

Climbs the thin seam and finishes at the tree.

A link up starting in the Collector, then goes up right to the top two bolts of Jim Takes A Tumble before heading back left tot he top (obviously contrived).

Start up the slab just right of ST. From the slab tackle the tilted wall.

Start as for Breakdance, but continue up the headwall from the pod.

Climbs the slab on small pockets. Avoid heading left onto Sex and Violence.

Starts steep and juggy before the left-facing corner. Tackle the final bulges to gain access to the anchor.

Climbs the gentle featured arete. Access from the top or a diagonal rap.

Alternate of Propagation. Start as for Propagation, but head left up the hanging arete.

The long corner above the track. Head through the roofs and escape left to the belay. Natural protection in the upper headwall.

SDS matched on the flake. Traverse right through the scoop and finish with Jelly. Great climb.

SDS with right on a low small edge and left on a slopey crimp.

Sit start with the right hand on a small edge in the crack and the left low in a scoop. The right side boulder is out.

Start matched on the left arete from a sit start. Left boulder is out.

Big moves on crimps leads to an easier but often wet upper section

Excellent bouldery climb with good holds and fun sequences up the tufa's and limestone run through the headwall. Continue up to double bolt belay anchor in the trees.

Permadraws replaced June 2019.

Starts as for Sencha then finishes up No Shame.

Sit start from the obvious match, fight the dab and work your way through the roof.

Sit start compressing both aretes. Finish with Transfixed.

Sit start compressing two good holds and head straight up using compression and a high step. Finish up and right using the fins. The boulder to the left is out. You will find this climb to the right of Step Up.

Sit start matched on an under-cling to the right of the diagonal foot rail. Traverse left and finish with Greedy Fly.

Start as for Black Francis, head straight up to some very sharp edges and finish up and left.

Start with hands matched in the thin horizontal crack and look for a microscopic pocket for the right foot. Move up to the obvious crimp and horizontal break, then finish on better holds slightly right.

Sit start holding either side of the protruding roof,move up to an edge and then slap to the top.

Stand start with left hand in the middle of the Arete and right on an undercling in the break. Make a big move to the sloping ledge then head straight up the face. Sit Start is an open project

Sit start matched on the obvious pockets, traverse right on good edges and finish straight up the compression arete.

Climb the arete. One of the best climbs at the Pond.

Sit start matched on the left side of the arete and finish with fun dynamic move. Drop off from good holds.

Sit start and go straight up to the pinches.

Sit start from the boulder just below the roof. Traverse right along the roof to the nose and mantle. Boulder to the right of the sit start is out.

Painful sit start on sharp crimps and a spike for the heel. Pinch your way up the arete.

Dyno from massive jug to lower topout.

Sit start. The arête is out.

Start on The Jug and make a huge throw out left. Finish straight up.

Sit start to Snap.

Sit start with the left on a sharp thin edge and the right on a sloping edge. Finish with Aquarius. Arete is out.

Climb the right arête and traverse the entire lip of the roof and mantle.

Start as for Echo-Psychosis but continue left on crimps and a lay back to throw way left to a sharp jug.

Sit start from furthest right in the dark low corner, (or from the nearest dry holds if it is wet), follow the weakness which passes the big juggy plate and around the bulge into the grotty dark corner above the stream.

Start deep in the cave below the start of Approaching Insanity. Left hand in a pocket on the roof and the right on a sloper to the left of a scoop. There is a good left foot scoop in the roof deeper in the cave and the right foot goes in the scoop next to the right hand. Climb into the start of A.I. and finish as for that problem. Here is a short vid of the start.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qz0xttFiek8&ab_channel=MarcoLefebvre

Climb Approaching Insanity and finish with Maestro.

Reverse Approaching Insanity and finish with all four points on the start of Dirty Dancing.

Reverse Du Hast and finish with all four points on the start of Dirty Dancing.

Start as for More Approaching Insanity and finish with Du hast.

Climb Du Hast and finish with Maestro.

sit-start to the right off Du Hast (four points start), move on slopers on the big overhung flake thing. Clamp your way out and reach right, past the tufa and dodgy looking ledges to get on the undercut far right face. More slopers get you set for an awkward lunge or, sweeter, a gaston in the small roof above to gain the right arete. The tufas are all eliminated on this line simply because they are wet for at least 95% of the year!

Deep start into Dirty Dancing

Start on deep undercling as per Flash Dance, exit as per Dirty Dancing OG line

Start at four points of Dirty Dancing, and climb the Approach Insanity.

Start with all four points on the start of Dirty Dancing and climb Du Hast.

Start with four points of Dirty Dancing, climb Approach Insanity and finish on Leon’s Line (Mantle the nose)

Start with four points of Dirty Dancing, climb Du Hast and finish with Maestro

Climb Du Hast and finish with Transversellijna

Starts on four points of Dirty Dancing, Climb Du Hast plates and finish on Transverselina.

Start on the plate and finish as Franks Route.

Start as for Frank's Route and head straight through the roof to finish with Transversalina. A surprisingly great climb. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRF4CAZKFns&ab_channel=MarcoLefebvre

Start on Frank's Route, go directly to the shelf and reverse Du Hast to its start.

Start as for Frank's Route, go directly to the shelf, reverse Du Hast and finish with all four points on the start of Dirty Dancing.

Start as for Frank's Route, go directly to the shelf and finish with Maestro.

Start as for Frank's Route and reverse Power Puku to the starting jug.

Start with Franks Route, climb up to the plate and finish with Maestro

Start as per Franks route, reverse power puku, avoid the plate and head left, finish up Transverselina

Start as for Du Hast but take the lower line on small slopers around the first corner. Leave this line before the juggy plate and drop on into the two small blobs. Reach or lunge all the way under the overhang, then clamp your way to reach and finish at the sloping break of Du Hast. Perhaps on the stiff side of the grade, but a great send.

Start as for Check Your Head and go directly to the plate to finish with the Leon's Line Mantle.