Vías en North America para grado seleccionado

Starts just right of Honey Bear with a crux up high. Permadraws starting at bolt 4 on a clean face with tufas.First bolted winter 2001 and rebolted with glue November 2015.

The line passing over the big hole higher up. Has 2 perma draws before the anchor.

Starts in the middle of the cave with nice tufas. The first route in the cave and the one to do asap.Think 3d people.

Very steep, techy and powerful 5.12c. Follow the tufas and slopey huecos, 5 star line, bolted by Canek and Mudo, incompleted, Alex Catlin added one bolt more, anchors and extension. There used to be a small "tree" near the anchors but is not there anymore.

Clasica del sector, tiene agarres tallados. A crimpy start leads to a rest on 2 bigger holds, then the action kicks in and doesn't stop till you reach the anchors.

Trends out right from the first anchor for 5 more bolts. Follow the permadraws through really cool climbing, dynamic and layback moves to a sweet anchor clip stance.

Es una ruta corta y dura de acomodar el cuerpo para subir por un diedro que está inclinado un poco a la derecha.

Climb the overhanging leaning arete right of Fuerza Civil. Short but steep with a nice step to reach the anchor.

One of the best. The only line up the otherwise blank piece of wall. Gorgeous.

Climb through a series of pinches and crimps to reach the spectacular tufa. Pinch up the tufa and follow jugs to the anchors. Shares the same anchors with África. Classic!

Starts next to the low tufa with some distinct pockets.The oldest route in El Salto . New bolts now make it safe and pleasurable after years of scary run -outs on rusted home made hangers. Hold on at the third bolt.

Sustained face climbing on mostly good holds with a distinct crux midway.

Awesome left trending line with a distinct low crux. Follows smaller tufas to a great rest after the steepest part and continues easier but pumpy.

One of the longest and steepest routes in the cave. A fun but wet start leads to unbelievable climbing through massive stalactites.

The first route bolted in the cave and one of the best routes here.

tercera ruta del sector. de pasos tecnicos al inicio mucho equlibrio y explsiva en la parte media

The Moonlight Buttress, as it is most commonly referred to, is one of the most popular aid climbs in Zion, and, as a free climb, is perhaps the most spectacular, and arguably longest and hardest, sandstone climb in the world. This stunning route tackles the namesake feature, a proud prow of rock that juts out from the wall behind it, via a singular, peerless crack that extends for 1000 feet from base to summit and never widens to more than an inch or two... the Moonlight Buttress is a feature of unparalleled, parallel perfection.

Note: It should be noted that the route also goes at a 5.8 C1 climb.

First freed in 1992 by Peter Croft & Johnny Woodward, the route was originally rated 5.13b. That rating has since settled to 5.12d, but even this reflects the overall effort of the climb and not the single hardest moves on the route. This has been evidenced by a number of onsights over the past few years, and most recently, Alex Honnold's free solo of the route in an astonishing 1 hour and 23 minutes.

The Moonlight Buttress is a sustained journey up nearly flawless rock for it's entire length. It has pitch after pitch of difficult Indian Creek style splitters and corners, a few enjoyable face climbing sections, fantastic exposure, and great belay ledges. What follows is a detailed description of my experience on the route that may provide more beta than you're after. If this is the case, refer to the free SuperTopo description that is floating around on the web, or one of many guidebook descriptions.

Approach: Drive into Zion to a bend in the road and park in the lot on the left (Big Bend parking lot), or, continue on for 500’ to a paved pullout on the right. The Moonlight Buttress is obvious. Continue on foot up the road, drop down to the river, and cross near a huge boulder on the far side. Pick up a great climber’s trail to the base of the route. Begin the route well to the left by scrambling up a 4th class passage to the first belay. The approach takes about 30 minutes.

P1: 5.8, 130’. Gear: Mostly full rack, slings & draws. Climb a long, sandy left-facing, right-leaning corner. Near the top move right and ascend a hand crack to an obvious tree on the belay ledge. Yuck, this route sucks, just rap off now.

P2: 5.10+, 100’. Gear: 3 of each cam, slings & draws. Runout, easy climbing up ledgey terrain to the right. Pull a roof (10+) on the right (use long slings), and continue up an awkward lieback crack (10-) to the belay.

P3: 5.11c, 50’. Gear: 4 draws & a #1 Camalot. Traverse right and slightly down. The hardest moves, a step-down/stand-up sequence, come quickly on the pitch. A bit frightening for the second. The bolts on this pitch could use updating. Continue to a bolted belay on a ledge.

P4: 5.10-, 90’. Gear: 3 of each cam, slings & draws. Head up and right on a thin flake, then traverse back left below a roof to a corner. A difficult move here (easier if you're tall) leads to a stance below a bolt. Above the bolt, step left to easy terrain (straight up is 10+). Runner gear well on this pitch as it wanders significantly. A bolted belay is above on terraced ledges and the Rocker Block.

P5: 5.12, 100’. Gear: Full rack less the 0.75 Camalot. Slings & draws. This is perhaps the single hardest move on the climb: A 12b boulder problem off the Rocker Block. My solution was to hang draws on the first bolt or two and carry only one extra draw on my harness, do the moves, then lower a loop of rope to bring up the rest of the rack. In any case, leap sideways off the Rocker Block for the obvious hold up and right. Match, and throw right to a good hold, clip, toe in on the lower handhold, and mantle up to a decent stance. One more hard move leads to a good rest at the base of the long, left-facing corner. Lieback like mad to the anchor – a two bolts out right at a stance.

P6: 5.12+, 100’. Gear: Full rack less the #1 Camalot. At least one sling. The enduro pitch. The crux of the route is absolutely hanging around placing gear on this sucker. Lieback to a handcrack pod. Place high and continue to lieback through a very thin section to a flare. Some jessery may be possible here, but inevitably, jam upwards, clipping the aid anchor out left along the way (or not), switch cracks to a system on the right and continue to lieback on easier ground up to the roof and a bolted anchor out right. The semi-hanging belay here under the chimney is the only uncomfortable one on the route.

P7: 5.12-, 100’. Gear: Green Alien w/ draw, draw for the bolt, 0.75 Camalot, all 0.5 & 0.4 Camalots. No wires. This is a great, wild pitch. It is also much harder than the rating would indicate. Place a Green Alien to protect getting into the chimney, and then pull into it and continue up left side in past a bolt. Moving up reminded me of the moves getting into the Harding Slot, more sustained albeit much easier. Eventually the chimney begins to open up into a right angle corner and the knee bars start feeling less and less bomber. A 0.75 Camalot in a pod here protects a strenuous move switching from a knee bar into a jam and then into a lieback. Once liebacking, one can motor up a long 0.5 Camalot section. 0.4’s can be placed higher. Rack on the left side. Climb to the Bivy Ledge and a bolted belay. Crazy exposure!

P8: 5.12-, 80’. Gear: 0.3 Camalots and up, no small pieces or wires. Splitter rattley fingers. The tough stuff is only about 15'. Bolted belay on a ledge.

P9: 5.12b/c, 110’. Gear: Full rack (including wires) less the #1 Camalot and two of the smallest cams. One or two draws. Splitter rattley fingers to sit-down rest. The tough stuff is only about 20'. After the rest, a thin crack & pin scars (cool move switching cracks) lead to a bolted belay on a narrow ledge out right.

P10: 5.12a, 190’. Gear: Full rack (including wires). The Nutting Pitch. Tricky face climbing up the zig-zagging cracks past wedged blocks leads to cruxy, sandy locks to a no-hands knee bar rest. This whole pitch is pretty awesome, and after all the pure jamming/liebacking, the 5.12 face climbing almost feels easy. Almost. Skip the anchor and continue through a sandy 5.10+ roof and on up cracks and knobs to lower angle top out.

Descent: Walk off via the Angel’s Landing trail. This is 2 miles of paved trail to the Grotto Picnic Area which is 1.5 miles down the road from Angel’s Landing. Alternatively, rap (see below). Walking off is much faster.

Miscellaneous notes: The route gets sun at around 9 AM and goes into the shade late in the afternoon. The route can be rapped entirely with a 70m rope, the last 2 rappel are directly down the face (not following the route). Regarding ASCA work: Most of the anchors on this route have been replaced/updated. Protection 3 each Blue Aliens (equivalent to #0 TCU's) 5 each Green Aliens (equivalent to #1 TCU's) 5 each 0.4 Camalots 6 each 0.5 Camalots 1 each 0.75 Camalot and #1 Camalot (crucial for the 5.11 traverse) A half set of medium wires (offsets handy) 3 draws and 3 slings 70m rope (if rapping) an 80m makes it easier

Description by Josh Janes

Back left corner of the cave.

Classic resistance climbing at its finest. First route right of the arete, follow the chalk. Have an attentive belayer going to the third bolt.

In the quarry behind Fer Forgé. Low start on good hold and huge move to a 2 finger hold.

Climb the grey slap to bouldery cruxes.

Climb the fine crack in between the two caves on an overhung and sharp wall that traverses left and up into the horizontal crack. Once on the horizontal crack climb a long traverse to the right and into the right cave. Once in the right cave try to stick the move out of the cave that would put you on the head wall.

Look at the tufa above the first anchor and you just want to climb it! 4 more bolts.Full value and amazing 4 bolts of pure pinching(not)up high.

Es una ruta muy constante con agarres pequeños. Desde abajo la ruta parece que no tiene agarres, sin embargo ahí están y son muy posibles. Es una de las mejores rutas de la presa. Tiene un ligero desplome.

Ultra Classic of the easier routes in the cave. Starts just right of the tree next to the cliff and trends out left on the line of tufas.

Climb the beautiful lay back feature and finish on tricky top

Starts just left of the big tree and crosses right above it. Belayer be careful at the 4th crux moves.

Perma draws.

A technical start leads to fun stalactite climbing followed by a section on crimps and sidepulls before the last tufa section to the anchors way up in the roof.

Climb crimpers out to the arête, then dyno to sloper, Superclassic. Beta video

https://youtube.com/shorts/mJ6myxjWcL0?feature=share

Fixed draws

Starts in the corner / big crack and directly gains the face to the high first bolt. Easier terrain up to bolt 4 from where you reach into good unders. A reachy move into a slit are followed by a section that will test your finger strength. Jugs to the anchor.

la mas clasica del sector es la primera ruta tallada en jilotepec pero la mas recomendable. exposiva tecnica y ruda

Ruta en techo a la izquierda de la cueva sobre agarres grandes y final de bloque

Continue with some nice long moves in pockets to smaller holds for a pumpy extension.

New stainless fixe hangers following a right facing,right arching dihedral. A little runout. An alternative start is from Fantastic Voyage and tread left to Tre Amigos.

Bolted tufa left of the Bronco Bowls fixed rope. Get here by climbing Steel Pulse and the traversing all the way to the left anchors.

Bajar a la primera reunión para poder descender al piso (aun con cuerda de 80m). Climb culo de la negra and continue for another 20m , lower to the first anchor to get to the ground (even with an 80m).

Start on the good hold to the right of the lip and traverse left for 8 feet then go straight to a jug.

The first pitch (5.11a/11c) gets you to Bronco Bowls

Excelente ruta con un crux bien definido por un sloper lateral largo en una cara negra.

Via de placa con bastante power endurance. Sustancialmente mas relajada yendo por la izquierda para salir del techo.

Es la primera ruta de esta pared de lado izquierdo de la arista quebradiza (los agarres están bastante sólidos).

Climbs the cleanest, blankest, rock up the center of the central pillar. A climb made famous after Alex Honnold's free solo ascent.

Rapell down, a 70m rope is enough down to the top of pitch 5, then you need 2 50m ropes.

First pitch has 13 bolts and 45m, a 80m rope brings you down to bolt one and you can downclimb.

Rock point y mas allá! Ya en las partes de arriba hay nidos de cigüeñas con bastante popo.

Video POV: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-y53ZedgWm4

Sit start at the base of the obvious left facing corner. Climb it! Key foothold broke (again...) (originally V8).

Movimientos super técnicos y muy divertidos de placa.

Inicia en la repisa junto a "Kahiohua", va siguiendo la grieta diagonal hacia la izquierda.

Movimientos interesantes de fuerza y equilibrio. Tiene un descanso sin manos despues de la penultima cinta. Finaliza con un bloque bastante tecnico para salir del techo y llegar a la reunion de "Salmonelosis"

Sustained crimping to infinity and beyond.

Se encuentra a la derecha de la reunión de "La Huerfana". Bloque desplomado (25-30 grados) sostenido, despues un slab y termina en la reunion de "Equinoccio Ext"

Este bloque se encuentra en donde termina el reliz de las ventanas en la parte mas baja pegada el rio. Para llegar a el hay que cruzar el rio a pie o llegar nadando desde las ventanas. El bloque es una piedra enorme recargada en el reliz, hay una cueva entre el bloque y el reliz donde se puede acampar. El área de aterrizaje del boulder es plana. El boulder completo tiene 7 metros de alto y se puede practicar haciendo un yoyo desde la plaqueta de arriba o de una rama del sabino.

Climb through the obvious tufas to a difficult boulder problem at the final roof. Classic!

Muy buena ruta con puras regletas y pinzas de calidad

Es la ruta que pasa por el techito que está del lado derecho donde la roca es un poco más naranja.

Esta ruta es la que pasa por la placa en desplome con textura naranja.

Climb the slab to the golden tufa. After the rest things get hard again real fast with a bouldery roof, cool rose, and huck to a finishing spike.

Fun 5.11 climbing to a no hands rest. Left-ward cracks lead to a shake and then to thin, defined crux. Rest on another big pod system for the technical, slabby finish moves up and left to anchors. Perma draws after the first anchor (for lowering, good warmup to there). Bring 6 draws.

Starts on “La Cumpleañera” and then climb left into “Las Perlas de la Virgen”

ITS A CONECTION 3 BOLTS ONE , BOLTED BY : JOE GUADARRAMA.

SUPER FUN TECHY BOULDERY MOVES, KEEP UR HEEPS NEAR THE WALL.

Awesome line right of 1/2 Route. A 80m rope will barely bring you back down. Watch out for the swing when unclipping the first bolt.

Start on "Que hay de mi?" and before the chains continue on to el "Arte de Volar".